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Tag: work

11 May 2021

2021 Bryce Canyon summer season begins

The 2021 Bryce Canyon summer season schedule has begun, and we are busy.  Actually it hasn’t slowed down much since Spring Break in March/April.  Seems everybody wants to #FindYourPark.  Which is awesome in so many ways, but not in other ways.

RV window view snow Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFrom RV window, grapple against the new leaves of Oregon Grape

Pretty much wrapped up two weeks of Ranger training the end of April mostly outdoors for COVID safety, even with cold and snow.  The actual warm weather 2021 Bryce Canyon summer season won’t start until maybe June.  In the meantime, a great group of new staff are eagerly working to learn about the natural and cultural histories and sciences at Bryce Canyon while creating Ranger programs/talks.  We’ve only been offering and advertising two hoodoo geology talks a day presented by experienced staff.  That will soon expand to Grand Staircase geology talks and evening programs along with more nights of constellation tours as our Astronomy Interns arrive.  We are all working the information desk and counting visitors in and out the door to maintain a limit of 55 people inside the visitor center which includes open bathrooms, museum, and merchandise.

compound fence Pipe Spring National Monument Kaibab Paiute Rezervation ArizonaGarden soon to be planted behind the fence, outside woodfired cookstove, quarters in building above the buckboard wagon, they do currently pull a rake through leaving the pattern not sure that was done historically

One more full day of training included a field trip to Pipe Spring National Monument just across the border in northern Arizona, about two hours away.  Our Rangers joined their Rangers to learn about the two primary cultures who still call this rather dry and desolate looking landscape home.  No surprise this is part of the Kaibab Paiute Reservation as history shows the US government consistently put Indians on “useless land” while trying to break their cultural traditions.  Yet these people are resilient and continue working to teach their history and language to their youth.  They survived hundreds of years in this area hunting and gathering around a known fresh-water spring.

Windsor Castle Pipe Spring National Monument Kaibab Paiute Reservation ArizonaNo Ranger lead tours, self guided only, limited numbers inside & not in small rooms, Ranger available

Longhorn Pipe Spring National Monument Kaibab Paiute Reservation ArizonaThat rack of horns is 5-6 feet across, he’s friendly and doesn’t know how big he is

Mormon settlers arrived during the late 1800s and built a fort called Windsor Castle on top of the main spring and raised cattle for their tithing.  It’s an interesting mix of history.

view North across Grand Staircase from LeFevre overlook SR89A ArizonaBefore driving back to Bryce we took a side trip south on SR89A a little ways up onto the North Kaibab Plateau to the LeFevre overlook.  The view north is phenomenal looking across the Grand Staircase, both geologic and monument, to the Pink Cliffs of Bryce Canyon on the horizon.

snow meadows trees jct SR14 & Rd to Cedar Breaks National Monument Utah

trees snow Pink Cliffs SR14 East UtahGlad I wasn’t driving for that long day as the next I had my own long day of driving 1 1/2 hours to Cedar City for groceries.  Although looking a little winter bleak, SR14 is a beautiful curvy drive through forest, high meadows, a lava flow, and a couple of grand vistas.  The SR143  turn off to Cedar Breaks National Monument, at 10,000 feet, with an anticipated early open due to lack of winter snowpack.

After too many hours in town I returned the same route and stopped at the turnoff to Navajo Lake hoping for some snow on the black lava under the winter forest.  Yet it was wet enough not to wander into the forest with inappropriate footwear, and the snow was only in small patches though the lake looked frozen.

My second day off I wasted way too many morning hours trying to do anything online.  So because I needed a propane tank filled in the adjacent town of Bryce Canyon City I took the laptop along and found WIFI.  Sadly, a Windows update found me and put a stop to tethering my phone to the laptop when and if I could get a signal at home.  That typically only happens before 7am and after 11pm, when I’d rather be sleeping.

Though the next day, I got a whole lot more sleeping than usual as I was home sick.  Seems when I reached for the chicken potstickers I grabbed shrimp instead.  I have a food intolerance to crustaceans and filter feeders.  They tasted great.  But I suffered the consequences fighting both ends for 24 hours and just trying to stay hydrated.  My bad for not reading the ingredients label.

Made it to work the next day with mornings hoovering around freezing then warming into the 60s.  Most of my day was project time, so worked on some new program ideas (shorties called popups) about trees and hoodoos around the world.  Had lightning with rain in the afternoon that moved our outside information station inside the visitor center.  Much harder to talk to visitors through a mask and plexiglass.

I know, I ranted.  Lots of things building up on my mind.  I’m not local enough to get local workers interested in fixing my poor broken truckcamper.  I’m thinking of storing it the rest of the summer for repairs next winter in Quartzsite.  Not willing to let go of it because I couldn’t afford to replace it.  Does make a nice traveling home.  It has to come off the truck anyway to replace the shocks, and so I can pull my 5th-wheel.

I lost a very good, long-time online friend last week who didn’t survive a ruptured aneurysm.  Only 67 years old, same as me.  A person so like me we joked about being sisters from different parents.  She lived along the Atlantic coast and took the most beautiful photographs of sunrises and waves.  She knew how precious life is and will remind me often.

Todd Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park by P DensmoreMy favorite boss ever is leaving the 2021 Bryce Canyon summer season after providing a wonderful training session and leaves our supervision in new capable hands.  Todd was my first boss as a Ranger at Mt St Helens in 1992.  He’s taking his skills, and beautiful wife and my friend, to Olympic National Park.  He will be sorely missed here.  But ah, maybe yet another excuse to revisit the Pacific Northwest.

Although I’ve solved the problem of tethering my phone to the laptop with yet another Windows update—why can’t they leave things alone–I doubt the signal is going to improve in my current location.  It’s a struggle I’m going to have to live with as long as I’m here.  Damn computer and internet have become my hobbies.

And maybe it is getting time for me to think of retiring.  Although seasonals don’t retire with any benefits, we just don’t work any more.  But then I have a wonderful day helping visitors plan their visit.  Later a young woman finds me to say thank you.  And that’s what makes it hard to stop being a Park Ranger.  So here I go, for the 2021 Bryce Canyon summer season, and my 29th summer season as a Park Ranger.  Guess it’s about time I took some photos.

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Bryce Canyon National Park, Places I've been, Seasonal Park Ranger, United States, Utah history, Park Ranger, training, work 16 Comments
06 August 2020

Living in the NOW

Sierra cat on rocking chair in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI really try living in the NOW even though I enjoy memories and planning for the future.  With the recent state of COVID affairs, the future is so unreadable.  So I’m working on one day at a time which includes work and limited play.

Last week on a day off I was home working on the computer.  Everything seemed slow, barely a signal to get online, every program opened “not responding” for way too long.  I was frustrated with waiting.  During mid-day many visitors are online.  Living in the NOW was not so nice.

Rangers pointing at me VC plaza Bryce Canyon National Park UtahCelebrated World Ranger Day July 31st.  All Rangers deserve recognition for taking care of visitors everyday through a pandemic.  My supervisor has worked his bum off making Bryce Canyon National Park Rangers available to the public.  Thank goodness we don’t only staff the information tables outside the visitor center.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter a hoodoo geology program I hung out near Sunset Point.  That day, dramatic clouds provided intermittent shade for perfect hiking and taking photographs from the rim of the main amphitheater.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNo rain hit the ground.

hoodoos valley Table Cliff shadows clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day the clouds thinned out and the temperature rose.  I was a little cooked after four hours roving along the 8000 foot rim at 88°F.

red Paintbrush flowers in Manzanita bush Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA good time to stop in shade and take a photo.

light shadow hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAt one point, a visitor asked where is my favorite special place and when I told him, wherever I am, he couldn’t believe it.  “Like I would love the dump”, where I never go.  I told him “I try living in the now, as much as possible.”  He just couldn’t understand.

Ravens on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Ravens on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMy now is frequently in the comfort of my own home—either RV—or outside in a lovely natural environment.  I kind of plan it that way.

Yovimpa Point from Bristlecone Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLooking at Yovimpa Point from the Bristlecone Trail

Sunday, Ranger Julie and I went to Rainbow Point at the end of the scenic road, another hot day of 90°F at 9100 feet in elevation.  After setting up some tables with props and “Please do not touch” signs I left Julie to present the first Grand Staircase geology talks of the afternoon.

trees Pink Cliffs clouds Bristlecone Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI sauntered 1 1/2 hours roving almost one mile of the Bristlecone Loop Trail.

Southeast view Paria River canyon Rock Springs bench Hackberry canyon 50 Mile & Navajo Mt Bristlecone Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFrom Bristlecone point I enjoyed a long distance view southeast putting more of the surrounding geography in perspective while trying to figure out what I saw.  Navajo Mountain bulges almost 10,000 feet on the horizon about 90 miles away.  Later with good NatGeo maps and some online help I determined to the left of Navajo Mt lies the Kaiparowits Plateau and the right Echo Cliffs.  Mid-ground starts with the upper Paria Canyon, with Rock Springs Bench next, followed by the Hackberry Canyon, and a rather unrecognizable flatland beyond which is actually multiple benches and canyons.

trees burn piles Bristlecone Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI chatted with folks about fire ecology.  A section of the trail borders a backburn from 2018 when lightning strikes started the Lonely Fire in late August and early September the Riggs Fire.  They burned together outside the park and started to approach Rainbow Point in the park.  Suppressing fires for over 100 years didn’t do forests any favors.  Now people try to clean up the unnatural amount of dead fuels and even thin some trees in an effort to restore forest health.

Bryce Canyon Junior Ranger book coverAt a forest gazebo along the trail, I met a family and was interviewed by their soon to be Bryce Canyon Junior Ranger.  The Questions from their Junior Ranger Book and my answers follow:

“Which was the first national park you ever visited? When did you visit?”  1974, Rocky Mountain National Park.

“What do you remember about that experience?”   I thought I’d live there someday.  It just hasn’t happened, yet.

“What do national parks mean to you?”  Special places for special people, that’s everyone.

“Of all the national parks you’ve visited, which was the most special to you? Why?”  Whichever one I’m at, as a Ranger or visitor.  Because I try living in the NOW.

Ground squirrel begging Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter returning to Yovimpa Point it was my turn to talk geology while Julie roved.  After several hot hours with multiple small groups I briefly had the overlook to myself.  I sat down in the shade with a dark chocolate fig brownie and water.  Before long, a family arrived, walked to the safety fence, and a kid tells me a squirrel is eating my food.  No, I’m eating my food.  Except I forgot about the Oreos in my fanny pack, that I also forgot to zip shut.  My newest friend.

Navajo Trail trees hoodoos clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahEven though I was tired from the long afternoon, I went out for the full moon rise as it was only ten minutes before sunset making it easier to photograph without using a tripod.  Walked down the Two Bridges side of the Navajo Loop Trail about five switchbacks, just below what I call the Mask.  (For its shape and nothing to do with COVID.)

hoodoo moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utahhoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Took some shots of the last light before the moon rose a little further south than expected through a smoky haze so not visible until about 15° above the horizon.  I moved up and down trail 30-40 feet catching it between several different hoodoos.

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe camera kept going auto on the ISO and I couldn’t figure out why.  After every shot I’d have to try to put the ISO back where I wanted it, on manual.

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I figured out the problem is the touch screen, that is now turned off.  I look through the eye viewfinder with my left (and better) eye and my nose touched the screen.  The camera’s choice was up like 25,000 and exceedingly grainy.

I woke the next morning feeling exhausted after almost seven hours of sleep.  Even after coffee and breakfast I couldn’t do another day at Rainbow Point so called in sick and went back to bed for another four hours of blissful sleep.  Don’t think I messed up the schedule too bad as Paula had help opening then went to Rainbow alone.  I might have overdone the day before getting over heated and dehydrated.

Intern Ben at evening program Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBy afternoon I felt recovered and the next day shared a late schedule with our intern Ben.  It’s his last week here so I gave up my evening program for his presentation about the science of life in the universe.  Really glad I had to open locks for setting up the slide projector and be there for this excellent program, not about aliens.  Afterwards, most of the staff, all wearing masks, joined together in the employee parking lot to look at the sky with our Vogon telescopes.  (Not open to the public.)  The only time we’ve had them out all season.  We are all going to miss the two astronomy interns who soon return to online school.

rock hammer agate rock Agate Hill Dixie National Forest UtahSo, although I was up late on my Friday, the next day I went rock-hounding with April.  Being both our days off, my first her last, we didn’t start our adventure until 10am.  Besides we weren’t going too far away either.  And unlike my last drive-by, we had no problem finding Agate Hill.  Good idea to go rock-hounding with a geologist.

collection various agates from Agate HillOf course we gathered way too much rock even though under the allowed 25 pounds plus one for each person.  So many gorgeous colors: yellows, oranges, reds, black, root beer brown, and white.

Southwest view trees valley Agate Hill Dixie National Forest UtahI was so busy looking down at the rock that I failed to take many photos of the lovely landscape which included the eastern cliffs of Red Canyon as well as the Sevier River valley to the west.  After a couple hours we went to The Big Fish in Panguitch for lunch and quick stop at the market, plus a long wait for April’s ice cream cone at the tourist trap in Bryce Canyon City.  A wonderful day living in the NOW.

I respect that 2020’s NOW certainly isn’t always the best for many reasons.  But for my own sanity, I have to try living in the NOW at least some of each day to find the good and beauty.  What NOW are you happiest in?

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Bryce Canyon National Park, COVID-19, Park Ranger, Utah hiking, Park Ranger, play, ranger programs, rockhound, work 18 Comments
24 May 2017

40 hours a week cuts into life

May 14-23, 2017

Every year after a six month vacation I return to my seasonal job as a Park Ranger and have forgotten how much time 40 hours a week cuts into life.  I’ve been busy and rather negletful of keeping up with the blog, or taking photos.  Should be back into the swing soon now that the North Rim is open and I have a daily schedule to keep.  So here’s a little catchup.

Everyone worked Sunday to get the last minute things ready for opening the North Rim Monday, May 15th.  It was touch and go this spring to meet that long upheld date due to priority repairs on 300 feet of broken waterpipe.  Hats off to those folks for finishing two weeks earlier than projected.

entrance station opening day North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI had opening day off so missed that first big rush.  I was partly disappointed but also relieved.  On the drive out of the park Monday morning the line at the entrance station didn’t look terribly long for an opening day.  Yet I heard there was a 45 minute wait at the entrance station at one point.

snow forest Bison curve SR67 North North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

meadows forest SR67 North Kaibab National Forest ArizonaEven though it’s a long 1 1/2 hour drive to Kanab I love to see the changes over time, seasons, and life zones.  Ponderosa Pine and Aspen forest border meadows so perfect visitors often ask who mows them.  During some Springs, out of the last nine I’ve seen, the meadows have been buried in white and now only a few patches remain in the forest’s shade.

Clouds bird Warm fire burn SR67 South Kaibab National Forest ArizonaTen miles of the drive along SR67 winds through an obvious burn from the 2006 Warm Fire where a new forest returns to life.  Young aspen cluster together under the remains of burned, weathered, and broken trunks, less seen every year as they topple to create a new generation of soil.  I look for condors here in this open area where they could see to the ground for a possible meal.  Some of the twisted and contorted tops of these snags fool me into seeing a bird perched.  Plus there’s the view across the Marble Platform edged by the Vermilion Cliffs to the north and Echo Cliffs to the east.  On a clear day, Navajo Mountain towers high at 100 miles away.  But no time to stop this day.

Vermilion cliffs SR89 North Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAfter 45 minutes to Jacob Lake the pine forest thickens before descending off the Kaibab Plateau through junipers and pinyon pines as the elevation drops 3000 feet.  Sage Flats stretches about 10 miles looking like it dead ends at the walls of the Vermilion Cliffs where Kanab lies nestled at the cliff’s feet.

Escobars Mexican restaurant Kanab UtahI left my sickly PC in the competent hands of the “Old Geezer”, Jack, and hoped he could bring it back to life or at least save the data and photos I was behind backing up to external drives.  Then went to lunch at my favorite Mexican restaurant, Escobars, where Marie always remembers what I’ve ordered before.  Chili Rellenos with rice and beans for lunch and an extra chili to go.  Picked up a few groceries and headed back home for a reverse of the amazing drive to town.

 

 

 

Transept canyon Walhalla plateau Oza butte South Rim from North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaLaundry day on Tuesday.  The building that houses washers, dryers, and showers was a pigpen.  Really wondered if my clothes would be cleaner afterwards.  Plus one dryer was wonky so took three hours to do three loads.  Laundry is one of those chores that is way far down my list.  But at least I could walk to the rim and enjoy a peak into Transept Canyon.

Bernie new camera in RV North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWednesday afternoon my friend Bernie topped out of the canyon and we spent the afternoon talking away.  He is on a through hike from Mexico to Canada joining several long trails with some bush-waking along the way.  Not his first long haul.  Girlfriend Stacey and he have spent many summers hiking long trails like the Pacific Crest, Appalachian, Georgia, Florida, and Arizona trails.  Care packages arrived on time with food, a new backpack, and a surprise new camera to replace the one that died along the way.

 

 

1 polished boot North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThursday was my Monday, and felt like my opening day.  Opened the visitor center and gave the 10am geology talk.  I actually remembered it.  My first day in uniform, thank goodness my 15 year old Italian Vasques still take a shine.  (One polished and one not.)  The National Park Service requires a polishable leather boot or shoe.  Women’s boots like that are not easy to find.  I’m going to order Italian made Scarpa boots online and hope they fit.  The old Vasques have been resoled twice yet show their years of wear.

Geology talk again Friday.  Bernie hit the Arizona trail on his journey north.  Visitors stopped some people from carving their names in the rocks along the Bright Angel Point trail.  Unfortunately they didn’t get a photo and the culprits weren’t caught.  Law Enforcement went looking and said the damage wasn’t deep so could be rubbed out.  More visitors stopped a man from flying a drone on the same trail.  Thanks to the people visiting national parks for helping us out.  We can’t be everywhere at once.

mouse in RV North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI have mice in the RV.  Came home for lunch and this furry varmint was huddled in the middle of the living room rug and not in a hurry to move even as I came closer.  Not a good sign.  I actually caught it wearing gloves with a towel and threw it outside.  I have since caught three more in the awful deadly traps.  Don’t like to do that but they should stay outside.

 

Campfire program sign North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona          Evening program sign North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Saturday morning I again opened the visitor center and had the rest of the afternoon to work in the office.  I wasted a lot of time with lousy computers and old software trying to make signs for my evening and campfire programs.  Not quite there yet as they are difficult to read.  Plus chipmunk babies were removed from our prop cupboard along with many other things like the felt condor to show size and markings plus the images shared for our condor talk.  So I had to find, print and laminate more photos.

Then Sunday I presented my first condor talk of the season, 4:30pm at the campground amphitheater, for seven visitors.  Among them, an awesome family of four living full time in a RV, home schooling, and working on the road.  The really cool two children finished their Junior Ranger books and I swore them in and gave them badges.  Starting with the dad, they all gave me hugs before continuing their journey.  This kind of interaction is the best part of my job.

Ranger Gaelyn canyon Transept trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMonday’s my Friday.  I opened the visitor center and worked it two hours with a steady flow of visitors mostly asking, “I just got here, what do I do?”  After orientation on the park map I send them on their, hopefully, happy way.  Many rim to rim hikers checked in to make sure potable water was on along the trail.  Problem with that is that a rock can fall at any time and take out water pipe so it’s good to carry purification or filtration options.  After a few more hours in the office I roved for a couple hours along the rim, my happy place.

Back to Kanab on Tuesday to retrieve my healthy PC.  It needed a bit of cleaning up both inside and out.  Then joined Bill for lunch at the new (opened in September) Peekaboo Canyon Wood Fired Kitchen which was delicious but touristy expense.  Outdoor seating is dog friendly.  Then a few more groceries for myself and others and back home along that beautiful drive once again.

I’ve taken hardly any photos of the canyon.  Or barely any at all.  While working I’m usually at the rim during the middle of the day when the light is worst for making photos.  After work, I’m tired so haven’t even seen sunset over the canyon yet.  Been feeling in a slump photo wise.  My small Nikon Coolpix is acting up and of course out of warranty.  Many of these photos were taken with a Sony PowerShot Bernie left behind and my phone.  Plus I realize the tripod needs to be used with my big Nikon for quality shots and it’s heavy and I’m lazy.  I’m going to work on that.

Don’t get me wrong, I do love my job, for six months of the year, but 40 hours a week sure does cut into life and free to choose where to travel.

Think I’m caught up now.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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