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Tag: wildlife refuge

06 February 2017

Palm Canyon trail Kofa NWR Arizona

Sunset Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaThe contrasts are striking between desert, palms, and canyon walls along the Palm Canyon trail.  Located in the Kofa Mountains named because the King of Arizona gold mine stamping its property “K of A” in the late 1800s.  The idea of protecting this Sonoran Desert landscape began during the 1960s when conservationist Major Frederick R. Burnham observed that populations of bighorn sheep were sharply declining and appealed to the Boy Scouts to take up the cause.  For two years, more than 10,000 boy Scouts and their leaders campaigned to protect bighorn sheep and finally in 1976 the 665,400 acre Kofa National Wildlife Refuge was established to be managed by the US Fish & Wildlife Service.

Looking up Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaPalm Canyon

A half-mile National Recreation Trail leads into Palm Canyon so all four of us camping together on the Kofa climbed into Sharon’s jeep and drove the two miles to the end of the road to start our hike.  Turns out either of the truck campers could have made the drive on this well graded road, but we weren’t sure until we got there.  I’m sure there are times when after heavy rain the road would be rutted and rough.

View West Dome Rock Mountains from mouth of Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaView west from Palm Canyon trail

At 11am it was still chilly enough, especially in the shaded canyon, to wear a couple layers.  But we weren’t far along before the jacket went around the waist.  The website suggests to allow an hour round trip but us lollygag hikers took over an hour just to get one way.  There was just so much to see.  Plus the sometimes steep and rocky trail required us to watch our feet while walking so we stopped often to look around.

Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaGeology

Millions of years ago the Southwestern United States resembled a broad plain with scattered marshes and streams studded with mountain ranges and erupting volcanoes that covered the marshes with 100s of feet of ash, rocks, cinders, and lava.  Then about 25,000,000 years ago, after a long quiet period, earthquakes and eruptions occurred cracking, splitting, tilting, and lifting the previous formed rock and created today’s Kofa mountains.  Water flowing through cracks in the volcanic rhyolite formed canyons through erosion.

Plants

The current desert ecosystem is characterized by hot summers, mild winters and low annual rainfall of 4-8 inches.  Yet even in this harsh environment plants have adapted.  Looking with binoculars up tiny side canyons to the north, opposite the wash we followed, rewarded us with an amazing variety of plants.

Cactus Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaMost obvious are the tall and stately saguaros, yet these seem not terrible old and all of about the same age as is common with the species.  Closer to the ground, prickly pear, cholla, hedgehog, pincushion and barrel cacti thrive.  All wonderful to see but we were really excited about seeing the California fan palm, the only native species of palm tree in Arizona, and only 100 trees remain.

These could be relics of the ice age when the range of California fan palms was much larger than its isolated groves today gradually spreading into these canyons and other protected niches as the climate warmed to desert conditions.  California fan palms typically live for 80 to 90 years.  A fire burned through the grove in 1953, seriously damaging the trees.  Fortunately, most of the palms survived and young trees have become established.  The survival of these trees is directly dependent on the microclimate in this protected canyon.  The palm trees are only able to live in the narrow side canyons where direct sunshine is limited and moisture is available.

Nolina against sky Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaAs we strained even with binoculars to find the palms we were often fooled by a palm-like plant growing out of cracks and on ledges but the nolinas are much smaller than palms and do not develop a trunk.

Palo Verde along Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI love the twisted and contorted shape of the palo verde.  Its almost neon green branches and twigs have enough chlorophyll to produce all the energy the tree requires and during drought often has no leaves.

California fan palms side canyon Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaCalifornia fan palms side canyon Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

As the sun rose higher interesting shadow shapes moved rapidly across the north canyon walls.

California fan palms side canyon Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaCalifornia fan palms side canyon Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

And the timing was perfect to see sunshine creep into a side canyon and light up the oasis of palms.

Didn’t see the endemic Kofa Mountain Barberry with its holly like leaves which may have been because I was looking for a low growing plant and this is a small bush.  Also don’t think I saw any Ironwood unless it was the thorny trees I called mesquite.

Animals

We also didn’t see the famed desert bighorn sheep.  The only animals we saw were a few birds and lizards flitting about way too fast to positively identify.  Maybe some peak-headed phainopeplas, some kind of hawks soaring in the far distance, turkey vultures, and mostly crows/ravens which seem to survive anywhere.  Saw the scat evidence of coyote and fox.

View West Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaMany animals survive in the desert because they are mostly nocturnal.  But then after the sun went down and the temperature dropped we weren’t particularly nocturnal ourselves.  Quite frankly there are a few species I wouldn’t want to trip over, especially after dark, like the Gila Monster or Western Diamondback.

Late light Kofa Mountains Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaYet no worries while the sun was up about being cold and by the time we returned to camp it was a delightful 73°F.  But that quickly changed just as we finished dinner enjoying the setting sun light up the Kofa Mountains and the desert.

Sunset Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Venus & crescent moon Chocolate Mountains Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaFollowed by a gorgeous sunset and then a crescent moon with Venus, and Mars.

Of the 665,400 acres within Kofa National Wildlife Refuge, 547,700 acres are designated wilderness, making it the second largest wilderness area in Arizona.  While the Palm Canyon Trail is the only designated trail on Kofa, visitors are welcome to hike anywhere on the refuge so long as vehicles remain within 100 feet of the road, do not enter mines, or the area closed for the recovery of Sonoran pronghorn mostly seen in King Valley.  Camping on the refuge is limited to a maximum of 14 days in any 12-month period.  Campfires are permitted with a limited amount of only dead, down and detached wood that can be gathered and I didn’t see any of that so probably want to bring your own firewood.  Also remember that summer temperatures can exceed 120°F.  Seems winter is the time to visit and I would highly recommend that.  Had a great cell and internet signal in camp.

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Arizona, Kofa NWR adaptation, California fan palm, camping, desert, geology, hike, hiking, Kofa National Wildlife Refuge, Palm Canyon trail, plants, Sonoran Desert, wildlife, wildlife refuge 14 Comments
26 January 2017

Hanging out on the desert near Quartzsite Arizona

Water in Kirkland Creek Kirkland ArizonaKirkland Creek

Arrived Saturday afternoon after seeing all kinds of weather, snow on the mountains, water in the wash, and wind on the nose getting to Quartzsite Arizona.  I was the last to arrive, so far.  And the Grand Canyon Association group is smaller this year with only six people.

With not particularly nice weather everyone agreed communal dinners could wait until the next night, me making Hungarian goulash.  However after dinner we comfortably gathered in the largest RV, 32’ motor home, for John’s birthday cake.

Sunset from camp La Paz Valley Road Quartzsite ArizonaFrom camp off La Paz Valley Road and Dome Rock Mountains Quartzsite

We got lucky Sunday when the wind died down in time for us to sit out for dinner and even enjoy a little campfire for a short while.  It never actually rained but the skies continued to look rather threatening.

West view Trigo Mountainss BLM US95 Arizona

Dead saguaro BLM US95 South of Quartzsite ArizonaMonday I took a drive south on US95 to scope out the KOFA National Wildlife Refuge and made a few photo opp stops along the way.  The desert floor is hard packed and stony so easy to find a place to park on the BLM land adjacent to the road.  Plus there are numerous gravel side roads, just depending on how far you want to get off the beaten path.  But pay attention to signs that often alert to the possibility of undetonated ammunition from military operations.

KOFA Mountains clouds BLM US95 South of Quartzsite Arizona

Wildflowers BLM US95 South of Quartzsite ArizonaI never walked very far from the road or my truck as the wind blew fiercely.  Yet I just had to get away from the power lines that run along both sides of the road.  A shame to put that in a photo of such gorgeous landscapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

US95 South Castle Dome Mountains ArizonaUS95 South Castle Dome Mountains

I drove only about a mile from pavement to the east of the Stone Cabin towards King Valley.  There are other areas in the refuge like Crystal Hill, where I’ve gathered crystals but never camped, and Palm Canyon which I’ve heard in superb.  And I wasn’t even off BLM on to the refuge yet.

Northeast Ocotillos KOFA Mountains King Road BLM ArizonaNortheast KOFA Mountains from King Road

Southwest Chocolate Mountains King Road BLM ArizonaSouthwest Chocolate Mountains from King Road

Oh my! Absolutely gorgeous!  Cloudy skies made light dance around on the land making for superb sights, and shooting.  Found a delightful place to park for lunch off the King Road not far from the plethora of saguaros, ocotillos and creosote bushes. Still windy so even at 60°F I was bundled up and hung out on the downwind side of the truck and camper soaking in the sights.  Mountains all around.

East Castle Dome Mountains King Road BLM ArizonaEast Castle Dome Mountains from King Road

Light & shadows KOFA Mountains King Road BLM ArizonaNortheast KOFA Mountains King Road

Ocotillo KOFA Mountains King Road BLM ArizonaI think the group should gather here next year where there are very few people, a much better signal, and exceedingly quite.  Only about 25 miles south of town.  I’m definitely going to stay there after Quartzsite, and believe at least two in the group will also.

 

 

Camp Dome Rock Mountains La Paz Valley Quartzsite ArizonaCamp between saguaros and Dome Rock Mountains Quartzsite

Reluctantly returned to camp for a superb dinner prepared by Greg and Karry.  All day long smoked pork roast which literally melted in my mouth, baked beans, Hawaiian sweet rolls, fruit salad, and for desert cherry cobbler backed in a Dutch oven.  We ate in their spacious and warm motorhome.

The camper was still having battery problems, or charging, or solar, or not sure so Tuesday I went to town in search of help.  Plus tanks needed dumping and water filled.  Rose’s RV Park charged $10 to dump and $1 for four gallon jugs of “filtered city water”.  Yea, I don’t use the fresh water tank or system in this old beast because of previous pipe breakage problems.  But I need 12v power for lights and to feed the brain on my fridge even running on propane.  Made an appointment for trouble shooting at Solar Bill’s for 9am the next day.

KOFA Mountains Palm Canyon Road BLM ArizonaNortheast KOFA Mountains from Palm Canyon Road

Got back to camp just in time for last night’s leftovers for lunch.  Then took another drive towards KOFA because I thought the truck would charge the house battery if the solar panel didn’t.  The meter for the panel glows red but doesn’t show it’s charging.  That night the 12v lights were so dim I gave up and read by headlamp.  And really weird is the LED lights didn’t work at all.  Internet signal is always uncertain.  Thus the quiet from me.

Campfire La Paz Valley BLM Quartzsite ArizonaThat night Paul made a dinner of black bean and ham soup with salad, bread, and cake for desert.  We do eat good in the desert.  And we sat outside around the fire for a while because the wind had dropped.  Although we still work several layers under the star studded sky.  Unfortunately, there were a few folks setting off fireworks and the candle lit bags?

Sunrise crescent moon La Paz Valley Road Quartzsite ArizonaYes I actually saw a sunrise

Truckcamper Solar Bill Quartzsite ArizonaUp early Wednesday for the Solar Bill’s appointment.  Got there a little before they opened and parked in front of a large bay door next to another rig, truck and trailer, also waiting.  Turns out that Johnny, the service man, and I have a mutual friend from Yarnell.  He tests.  The old battery bought two years ago is shot but here’s the real problem.  I had a 50 watt solar panel that puts out 1 amp/hour, the fridge that draws .6 amp/hr and there’s not enough sunlight hours to keep the battery full.  In other words, more power being used than being made.  The truck doesn’t charge the camper battery but will be rewired in the future to do that.  So I bought a 100 watt panel to replace the old one, and got $30 back on the old panel.  This panel puts out 5 amps/hr, plus I bought a bigger battery.  Wasn’t a planned expense but had to do it and spent less than expected under $400.  And I have power, lights, and a working fridge again.  Yipee!!!  That took about two hours although I was only charged for 50 minutes of labor.

Geocache La Paz Valley Quartzsite ArizonaNot in the log John

After lunch I went for a geocache walk with John, my first geocaching experience.  We may not have walked even two miles from camp.   I know some of you geocache but being totally new to this I didn’t know what to expect.  John told me the name of the cache and described it as “tiny” then kept looking at his phone for distance and direction.  When we got close I just started looking for something out of place.  We were by a barbed-wire fence line not far from the road and John said sometimes their magnetic.  So we looked at the nearby metal fence posts.  Nope.  But then I noticed that only one fence post in the line had rocks piled around the base and low and behold, under those rocks was a small plastic container with a roll of paper inside for geocachers to note date they found this.  I was amazed that some people have a custom, small, stamp to use with their “handle”.  John had me sign first as I found it then said something to his phone app about “Geogypsy” being the discoverer of her first cache.  And then we went on to discover three more nearby.  I need to learn more about this now.  I downloaded the app on my phone and am officially “geogypsy2u”.

Other than that, hung out with the folks in camp and had yet another delicious dinner made by John and Shirley of chicken alfredo, 4-bean salad, mac and cheese, and multiple choice deserts.  And I had lights in the camper to read by although not much signal to get online.

Clear, cold 31°F Thursday morning.  Only a light wind.  This morning I sit and work on the blog post, editing photos, and thinking I’ll have to drive somewhere else for a signal strong enough to actually post.  Maybe another ride to KOFA where there was four bars and a great signal.  Saturday is Blogger-Fest and then back out to the KOFA desert and mountains with solar power.  I am a happy camper.

Apologies for some not so great photos as post processing on the laptop with terrible reflections makes it difficult to see what I’m doing.  Trust me it’s gorgeous out here!

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Arizona, Quartzsite, RV living BLM, desert, KOFA NWR, mountains, Quartzsite, solar panel, wildlife refuge 9 Comments

Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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