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Tag: waterfall

14 August 2013

Entranced by the magic of Hogsback South Africa

Tucked away in the Amatola Mountains of the Eastern Cape I found the magic of Hogsback South Africa and expected to see fairies in the forests.  Seems the entire town is truly in touch with the magic of nature.

Driving to Hogsback South Africa

Joan and I sadly parted ways along the beach, her to Johannesburg for a presentation and me, presumably, to Port Elizabeth.  But then I looked at the map and got a wild hair to visit Hogsback, a place I’d heard a little about from another traveler during my previous visit to South Africa.

Plus of course I did a little online research and Hogsback is reported to be where JRR Tolkien got his ideas for Middle Earth.  Of course several places claim that fame but I figured the place must be worth checking out.

I had picked up a pile of some tourist brochures and amongst them were lists of accommodations and places to see in Hogsback. Just the name conjures images of razor-backed mountains which I knew I’d love to see and maybe hike in.  I did have a few days before meeting up with Firefly in Port Elizabeth.  By name alone out of several choices I called Never Daunted to reserve a self-catering cottage for two nights.  Turned out not to be near enough time so I’ll definitely return.

Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Africa

Never Daunted

The drive was a little rutted due to recent flooding on the road but the VW made it just fine.  Owners Josef and Elsa made me feel right at home and even helped me lug too many suite cases to my cottage.  If the doors had been round and the flower surrounded cottage on one floor I’d have felt to be in a Hobbit home.  All amenities supplied except the food I brought myself.

Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Africa

Never Daunted offers five self-catering cottages overlooking the Hogsback Mountains surrounded by flowers everywhere.  I stayed in the Samango Cottage with a Queen bed, full bath, complete kitchen minus oven, sitting room with wood stove and wood, plus TV I didn’t watch and plenty of space to set up the computer.  I actually got online with my Vodacom modem.

Samango monkey flying off roof Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Africa

The first morning I sat on the patio enjoying coffee and checking email when I heard a thumping sound on the roof.  I was totally unprepared for a Samango monkey to use the porch roof as a launching pad into the nearby trees.  Not just once.  This was like a game.  And the second time I had the camera ready.  This particular subspecies of Samango Monkey only occurs in Afromontane forests like found in Hogsback.  In fact the cheeky little buggers hang out right above the cottages dropping fruit from the trees.

View of Hogsbacks from Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Arica

Cloudy morning view of Hogsbacks from Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Africa

I never tired of the changing light on the Hogsbacks from morning to night.  But I did more than just hang out at this delightful cottage.

Three Hogsbacks Hogsback South Africa

Hogsback Arboretum

Unidentified bird Hogsback Arboretum Hogsback South Africa

Growing up in Illinois I frequently visited Morton Arboretum and even got married there.  I love to walk amongst the natural beauty of places visited, so the Hogsback Arboretum topped my list of things to do.

Fall colored Maple Hogsback Arboretum Hogsback South Africa

The arboretum isn’t huge but does offer several short trails through a garden of trees from all over the world.  I’ll admit to conflicting feelings about the non-indigenous species.  But this fall colored Maple sure did bring back memories of growing up in the US Midwest.

39 Steps Waterfall Hogsback Arboretum Hogsback South Africa

I followed Frog Crossing then Waterfall Way to see 39-steps waterfall.  And no I didn’t count the steps.  Just the names alone are delightful.

Raspberries Hogsback Arboretum Hogsback South Africa

Lower waterfall Hogsback Arboretum Hogsback South Africa

The trail along the Tyhume Stream allowed me to graze on cherry plums and raspberries.  I absorbed the magical and positive energy from the running water.

Flowers and butterflies at Hogsback Arboretum Hobsback South Africa

The brilliant flowers attracted many butterflies amongst the labeled trees.  The return trail lead me into a mini grove of five California Redwoods which seemed giantly out of place.

Looking thru the chapel door St Patricks on the Hill Hogsback South Africa

St Patricks on the Hill

Just up the road from the arboretum, beyond the poor excuse for pavement ends, I visited St Patricks on the Hill.  I’m not a religious person however do enjoy the tranquility of a place of worship that brings people together in unity filled with love.

Stone arch & chapel St Patricks on the Hill Hogsback South Africa

Kenneth Hobart Houghton built the first chapel in 1935 as a private place to worship. The original design included only one rondavel but after its donation to the Anglican Church the local congregation grew and it became necessary to extend it. The second rondavel, which gives it a butternut shape, was added in 1992.  Sadly, in June 2010, fire destroyed almost the entire building yet the rebuilt Chapel was completed in a year.

Prayer Walk arch St Patricks on the Hill Hogsback South Africa

The caretakers continuously work to improve the Prayer Trail planting brilliantly colored flowers and laying down more stone to increase the path.  I wish I’d been there for the Rhododendrons in bloom.  The trail provides a spectacular view into the valley below.

View from The Bluff Scenic Walk Hogsback South Africa

Bluff Scenic Walk

However,  I saw the best far reaching views during my quiet morning stroll along the Bluff Scenic Walk located by The Edge Mountain Retreat where I later had a delicious breakfast.

Labyrinth The Edge Mountain Retreat Hogsback South Africa

And I walked the Labyrinth, reported to be the largest of its kind in South Africa.  Plus I dropped in to the nearby Dreamery Store full of local hand-crafted products and couldn’t resist buying the cutest little dress and a braided leather ankle bracelet.

Village map Hogsback South Africa

Hogsback

Hogsback offers a wide variety of accommodation, ranging from full-service hotels to guest houses, self-catering cottages, Bed & Breakfast, backpacking, camping and caravaning.

The lady at the Information Center provided a lot of recommendations for even more to do than I had time for.  Plus friendly locals at the Happy Hogs Pub and Restaurant also made suggestions.  There’s a tower I didn’t get to and a waterfall hike that sounded like more climbing than I was interested in.  In fact a local map shows many trails into the forests and mountains.  I also missed the Ecology Shrine, guided bird walks and horseback riding.

Sunrise view of Hogsbacks from Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Africa

As AJT Cook wrote in a tourist brochure, “There is a magic about Hogsback which cannot be reduced to cold print; but which steals away the hearts of those who visit it so that they come back year after year to recapture their first love.”

Well I tried to capture the magic of Hogsback South Africa in photos and memories.  And although not my first love, though close, I do have the desire to return for further explorations.

Ceramic warthog from Hogsback South Africa

Oh, and don’t be fooled into buying the unfired ceramic warthogs that the hawkers on the streets try to sell as they will turn into dust.  I did however buy a fired one at the Information Center.  Yea, I know, it’s cracked.  But then so am I.

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Hogsback, Places I've been, South Africa, World Travels arboretum, guest house, Hobbits, travel, waterfall 28 Comments
19 March 2013

So long South Africa until we meet again

I am sad to be leaving South Africa in less than 24 hours.  The journey has been like a wide awake dream.  I’ll be back to explore more of the wonders found here hopefully next fall, winter and spring.  Or spring, summer and winter depending how you look at the seasons.

Spotted Hyenas Kruger NP SA

Spotted Hyenas Kruger National Park

The wildlife so close and roaming free in its own environment while I stay in my cage called a car.  Such an improvement from wandering a zoo and looking thru bars while my heart breaks over the containment of life for human enjoyment.

Arch from Echo Ravine trail Golden Gate Highlands NP Free State SA

Golden Gate Highlands National Park

Landscapes of such diversity abound in this country no bigger than the state of Texas.  And I’ve yet to see them all.  Some places remind me of home in the States, similar but different.  Towering walls of sandstone like the canyonlands in the Southwest.

Waterfall Nature's Valley SA

Nature’s Valley

High mountain streams cascading into waterfalls like the Rocky Mountains.

Hogsback SA

Hogsback

Mountains blanketed with forest like Washington’s North Cascades.

Fields of sunflowers R26 Free State SA

Free State

Rolling hills with farm fields stretching on to forever like Iowa.

Aloe flower stalk Nieu-Bethesda Rd Great Karoo SA

Great Karoo

Vaguely vegetated desserts like southern Arizona.

Tsitsikamma NP SA

Tsitsikamma National Park

Waves crashing on rocky shores like the northwest coast.

Sand dunes West Coast NP SA

West Coast National Park

Sand dunes to clamber over like the east coast.

Sunset Camdeboo NP Eastern Cape Graaff-Reinet SA

Camdeboo National Park

And colorful sunsets like everywhere in the world.

Flap-necked Chameleon Kruger National Park

Yes, I am sad to leave but carry some most amazing memories away with me.  Plus I long to sleep in my own bed.

I’ve seen so much and taken 1000s of photos.  I will be sharing the journey with you all as I post for probably the next six months or more.

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South Africa geology, mountains, national parks, South Africa, travel, waterfall, wildlife 48 Comments
28 April 2010

Havasu Falls Day 2 Part 2

The key word was Wow, which we repeated constantly.

01 Havasu Falls Havasupai Indian Reservation AZ (669x800)

After ogling at New Navajo Falls we continued down the trail another .5 mile (.8 km) and stopped in our tracks when we saw Havasu Falls.

02 Signs & trail to Havasu Falls Havasupai Indian Reservation AZ (800x622)

Trail to right of signs

With full packs still on our backs we hiked down to the base of the falls.

03 Havasu Falls Havasupai Indian Reservation AZ (600x800)

The torrent of water plunging 100 feet (30.48 meters) spread a heavy spray onto the beach, and camera lens.

04 Travertine cave Havasu Falls Havasupai Indian Reservation AZ (800x600)

Caves in the travertine formed by different flows of water in the past.

05 Jake taking photos from lower pools Havasu Falls Havasupai Indian Reservation AZ (800x600)

Jake taking photos

The 2008 flood destroyed the old travertine rims causing heavy silting in the pools that can be seen in the first photo.

06 Travertine rim building on sandbags & wood Havasu Falls Havasupai Indian Reservation AZ (800x600)

Yet in only two years the deposit of calcium-carbonate on sandbags, rocks and wood begins to build new dam walls.

07 Havasu Falls Havasupai Indian Reservation AZ (600x800)

We returned several times, later in the day without our packs and the next day also.

08 Campsite Havasu Canyon Havasupai Indian Reservation AZ (800x600)

Home Sweet Home

The campground was less than .25 mile (.4 km) away.

09 Havasu Creek Havasupai Indian Reservation AZ (800x600)

Havasu Creek

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Arizona, Havasu Falls Arizona, Havasu Falls, hike, waterfall 23 Comments

Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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