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Tag: Valley of Fire State Park

24 April 2017

Winter travel wrap up: a love affair with the land

If somebody would pay me to travel and explore I’d just keep on going  because no matter what natural area visited I enjoy a love affair with the land.

Since mid-January the wind blew me to numerous fascinating places in the Southwest.  The truck and camper survived the 2200 mile journey.  I worked on improving the making of photographs.  And I can add at least a couple serious new love affairs with the land from this winter’s journeys including the lush Sonoran Desert, the dramatic Eastern Sierras, and the pastoral Owens Valley.  Plus they all deserve return visits for further explorations.

Sunset from KOFA National Wildlife Refuge camp ArizonaKofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Making a plan versus not making a plan

I didn’t plan to fall in love, but I love making a plan.  Research and reading about places I want to experience, making a list longer than life even though I accept not seeing them all is really part of the fun.  Yet this winter I went from one place to another as the feeling struck, or someone made a suggestion like being set up on a blind date.  This type of courtship took me a while to adjust to, yet over time, and I mean weeks, won me over.  I felt so relaxed and at ease even with the turmoil of our current political state which I kept up with to a point before high blood pressure.  Back to nature for the calm and centering needed.  Where I feel love the most.

Sunset rays Pozo Redondo Mountains Darby Well Road BLM Ajo ArizonaDarby Well Road Sonoran Desert near Ajo Arizona

I did have a plan to visit with friends and attend Blogger-Fest in Quartzsite in January and that instigated a visit to nearby the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge.  Then because a high school friend was wintering in Mesa I spent a few days way too close to the city of Phoenix but at least we got out for a hike on Silly Mountain along with many good laughs.  From there an invitation to visit a friend working in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument had me headed south towards the border.  I so fell in love with this Sonoran Desert landscape that I spent most of February there.  Then I heard some friends planning an early March visit to Valley of Fire in Nevada and I figured why not as I’d only been there once before.  The winds of chance next blew me to Death Valley National Park, a place I can never visit too often.  But with a weekend coming and map in hand I remembered reading several blog posts about the Alabama Hills, a place I’d never been.  In fact it had been 40+ years since I’d traveled US395 and the Owens Valley.  And dang if I wasn’t hooked again.  Love at first sight with the Eastern Sierras and before I knew it another two weeks had passed by.  As the end of March approached I began to feel a draw back home to Arizona yet made a couple more stops along the way.

Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaOrgan Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

Camper comforts and room for improvement

By far the best investment for the camper was a new 100W solar panel that solved my electric needs which is mostly just lights and the fridge ignition.  I use an inverter plugged into the truck for charging the phone and running the laptop.  I have thought about getting a small generator but they are noisy and not particularly cheap.  Sort of like buying an overpriced diamond to get engaged instead of saving the money for experiences.

Crested organ pipe cactus Darby Well Road BLM Ajo ArizonaI don’t use the fresh water system in this old beast, especially after the first winter when water froze and broke the kitchen faucet.  My bad.  But I have concerns about the rest of the plumbing and am not a plumber.  Just one of the many things that need to be looked at and repaired.  Water in jugs works just fine and a dishpan in the sink saves space in the gray water tank.  The occasional plant that gets watered is happy and so am I.  I am careful not to put food scraps down the sink or outside for critters.  I am picky about drinking water, either buying by the gallons or running through the Britta.  But with conservation I can get by on one gallon a day plus at least that much to drink.

Luckily I have a handy neighbor who rebuilt the two “wings” of rotten wood that overhang the truck bumper on each side by about two feet.  Had to be done in order to remount the protective plastic that half fell off somewhere between Fossil Falls and Barstow on the way to Mojave Trails.  Once the camper comes off the truck he’s going to reinforce a few other areas of old wood.

I’d like to replace the foam on the dinette cushions that are flattened and old.  It’s really the only place to sit inside.  And I need to finish the curtains so I can be rid of those awful metal blinds.

creek sunset crepuscular rays High Sierras Independence campground Independence CaliforniaEastern Sierras Independence California

Experimenting with photography

I definitely have a love affair with photography and am constantly reading and learning how to improve the relationship with my camera.  I honestly tried to carry the tripod around more and use it but it’s a bit heavy to use as a walking stick on longer hikes.  I’ve been using manual (M) for a long time and tried moving back and forth with aperture (A) and shutter (S) priority.  Had fun with sun bursts.  I took more time composing a shot and observing edges to avoid a silly tree branch or such.  Looked at different perspectives and even got down on the ground once in a while. Ugh, not my best position.  Really tried not to overdue the post-processing like I did when first introduced to Lightroom.  Now that I’ve opened a new photography website I actually look at my photos on the screen with a more discriminant eye.  Out of 10s of 1000s of photos only a few make the cut.  All this is sort of like looking at old love affairs and learning from mistakes.

Last light Amargosa Range Badwater Basin Death Valley National Park CaliforniaDeath Valley National Park California

Reflections

The getting there, being there, rinse wash repeat, I love it.  The driving part, I’m getting a little tired of that.  I just don’t ever feel like putting down many miles in a day.  Having said that…

I’ve been traveling alone so long it’s now difficult to relax enough to travel with anyone.  Call it independence, stubborn, unable to make compromises, or maybe all of these.  It’s also a chance to learn about myself and spend time living in the now.  I can barely describe how I feel when traveling solo, in my element, no matter the surrounding natural environment.  I love them all for what they are.  I love them NOW because I’m there.  Yet I’m friendly so have no problem meeting and chatting with people wherever I am.  I’m an ambivert, finding balance with my extrovert and introvert characteristics.

High Sierras Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaEastern Sierras & Alabama Hills California

I love being able to share the moments on social media.  I’ve seen cell towers everywhere I’ve gone.  They are not obnoxious, intrusive or ugly.  They are just there like we used to have electrical and telephone lines.  I got a signal almost everywhere except the Alabama Hills.  Sure wish I could say that for the North Rim Grand Canyon.

morning light temples San Fransisco peaks North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaNorth Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

What’s next

Yet another landscape I love, and sleep with, calls me to return.  Yup the North Rim Grand Canyon, the 10th summer I call this place home.  So it’s time to take the camper off the truck for some repairs and to haul the 5th-wheel back to the canyon.  I report for work May 1 but the North Rim doesn’t open to the public until May 15.  And this year begins with limited services due to a major waterline break.

Maybe next winter I’ll put the 5th-wheel in storage and live in the camper while traveling.  I’d love to take a fall journey to the Pacific Northwest where I’ve been trying to return for several years.  Yet I’m sure whatever journey I make there will be a love affair with the land.

 

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Arizona, California, National Parks and Monuments, Places I've been, United States Alabama Hills, Death Valley National Park, KOFA NWR, Organ Pipe Cactus NM, photography, Quartzsite, RV lifestyle, Silly Mt, travel, Valley of Fire State Park 25 Comments
06 March 2017

Driving to Valley of Fire State Park

March 1, 2017

Snow Bradshaw Mountains Iron Springs Road ArizonaThis, is why I wanted back to the desert so it was totally worth the five hour (long to me) drive to Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada.  Why there?  Well, Nina, a fellow Ranger who I hadn’t met yet would be there and it’s a gorgeous place.  Plus Sandee was only an hour away in Las Vegas after a marathon and had never been to Valley of Fire so I convinced her to join us.  That didn’t take much.  And she was the first one there to claim our campsites.  Seems this has been a winter full of meeting up with old and new friends.

When I left Kirkland around 9:30am the Bradshaw Mountains were dusted with white on the way to Prescott for supplies.  A thirty minute drive and two and half hours shopping.  Why does it always take me so long?  I only went to three stores.

From Prescott, State Route 89 north of Chino Valley tosses the truck up and down like a roller coaster which means slowing down way below the 65mph speed limit so the camper doesn’t break.  Next, I couldn’t wait to get off I40 west from Ashfork.  I don’t particularly like to travel interstates on the best of days, but this stretch of freeway is in terrible condition with huge chuck holes that would swallow a VW.  Seems a lot of our highways are going to pot(holes).

Hoover Dam bridge SR93 ArizonaAt Kingman I was relieved to turn north on US93 even with its cracked and flaky surface.  Thought I was going to drive over the Hoover Dam with its beautiful Art Deco architecture but instead was whisked over what I believe is the newer high bridge.  Been a while since I passed this way.  Did see a sign to the dam but figured I didn’t have time.

Lake Mead SR93 East Boulder City NevadaDrove a few miles past my turn off to Boulder City and fueled up as it’s pretty remote at Valley of Fire.  As I drove back to Lakeshore Drive/UT167 I saw my first real view of the puddle called Lake Mead.  The light color on the far shore should be under water.

DSCN0841 Lake Mead Lakeshore Drive Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

Dry docked Lakeshore Drive Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaThe “Lake” is rarely visible from the road being so far from shore.   One hundred forty feet below full pool.  Another idea gone astray.  If these deserts were meant to have lakes they’d have been there naturally.  Other than a distant view, most of the side roads to signed “beaches” aren’t.  Instead they are high and dry along with the numerous boat docks and businesses.  Business has literally dried up.

Lakeshore Drive Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

Folded rock Lakeshore Drive Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

Badlands Lakeshore Drive Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaYet the landscape is so geologically diverse.  At first rolling hills dotted with low desert scrub. Then towering cliffs of tilted, folded, and rippled sunset colored sandstone topped by shades of gray weathering limestone.  Suddenly, cresting the top of a steep hill a valley stretches below.

Sunset Valley of Fire State Park NevadaDo you see the face/head profile of an ogre, or is it just me?

Just before I turned west onto Valley of Fire Highway, and straight into the setting sun, I took advantage of a weak signal and sent a text to Berta letting her know I’d almost arrived.  I discovered during last year’s visit there is very limited phone signal with nothing in the campgrounds.

Although I was arriving a little later than expected I knew from Sandee’s morning text she had saved three campsites.  Didn’t quite turn out that way.

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Arizona, Nevada Lake Mead, mountains, road trip, sandstone, Valley of Fire State Park 12 Comments
15 February 2016

Fire Canyon Road Valley of Fire State Park

View along Fire Canyon Road Valley of Fire State Park NevadaWe finished our two-day, three-night visit at Valley of Fire with a second drive on Fire Canyon Road.

If you only had a couple hours to visit Valley of Fire just driving the roads would provide an awesome show of twisted, stripped, and colorful rock formations all vying for attention.  The park’s brochure encourages several short and easy hikes that provide more intimacy with the rock.

Sandstone layers & veins Fire Canyon Road Valley of Fire State Park NevadaIt’s a toss up which trail is my favorite.  White Domes was the longest and a pleasant loop with teasing side canyons winding through dry washes and climbing only a few rocky steps.  I was a little disappointed in Fire Wave, maybe because of the hype, but the landscape surrounding it screams for more exploration.  The highlight was seeing so many petroglyphs both at Atlatl Rock and along Mouse’s Tank trail.  There’s sure to be a whole lot more out there.

Fire Canyon Road Valley of Fire State Park NevadaThere are no advertised trails along Fire Canyon Road yet several pull offs along the way offered far views plus lots of tempting land to walk into.

Skateboarder Road Valley of Fire State Park NevadaNear one pull off a car was parked on the road and a gal was skate boarding while a guy took video.  Is this what parks are for?  Then look at me taking a picture of them.

Fire Canyon Road Valley of Fire State Park NevadaI prefer to immerse myself in the landscape, visually, physically, emotionally and spiritually.  There is never enough time to really get it, be one with, understand and absorb a place.

View along Fire Canyon Road Valley of Fire State Park NevadaSometimes the sharp contrast and bands of colors don’t seem real.  OK, I know the red is iron from the high silica sandstone but really, those distinct lines just blow me away.

End of Fire Canyon Road Valley of Fire State Park NevadaAt the end of the road we walked a short ways along an abandoned and closed road, eaten away by the power of water.  There are very few people around.

Fire Canyon Road Valley of Fire State Park Nevada

People on rock Fire Canyon Road Valley of Fire State Park NevadaA young(er) couple took off to climb the rock challenge.  I’m OK with watching them and not drawn to follow.  Many animal/human trails weave across the land hopefully avoiding the fragile cryptobiotic soils.

Fire Canyon Valley of Fire State Park NevadaWhat more can I say about Valley of Fire State Park.  It’s incredible!  I want to go back.  Don’t limit yourself to just the park’s recommended trails.  Being only an hour’s drive from Las Vegas it has pros and cons making the park busy yet providing a natural area to escape the concrete jungle.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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