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Tag: South Africa

26 June 2013

Side trip to Nieu-Bethesda

Sometimes taking a detour along the way leads to special unplanned experiences like this side trip to Nieu-Bethesda.

Sunrise N1 Free State South Africa

After the worst night ever at a poor excuse for a Caravan Park in Bloomfontein we cut out at the break of dawn for the 265 mile (425 km) drive to Camdeboo National Park near Graaff-Rienet.

Traveling for seemingly endless miles on the N1 through the flat, rolling grassland and crop fields of the Free State brought us into the Great Karoo’s semi-desert. Summers can be a bit warm through these open landscapes offering very little shade.

View from Nieu-Bethesda Road Great Karoo South Africa

When Joan saw a sign for fossils she knew I’d be interested. So we took a side trip on a gravel road 15 miles (23 km) towards Nieu-Bethesda. Turned out this also took us to Owl House which I had read about and wanted to see.

Blue cranes along Nieu-Bethesda Road Great Karoo South Africa

Joan got really excited about seeing the Blue Cranes, the national bird of South Africa. Usually found in dry grasslands the population is in decline due to poisoning, habitat alteration, and power line collisions. All cranes engage in dancing, which includes various behaviors such as bowing, jumping, running, stick or grass tossing, and wing flapping. These unfortunately seemed too busy eating to dance.

Green Milkweed Locust along Nieu-Bethesda Road Great Karoo South Africa

Plus HUGE grasshoppers, 3 inches (7 cm) mind you, stopped us to investigate what was crawling on the milkweed. Joan posted about these Green Milkweed Locust as part of her South African biological data base.

Seekoel River crossing on Nieu-Bethesda Road Great Karoo South Africa

This semi-desert environment with very little running water still displays a scattering of brilliant flowers.

Candleabra lily, Gazania, Morning Glory and Snake Aloe along Nieu-Bethesda Road Great Karoo South Africa

The Candelabra lily is appropriately named and stands out against the land growing 16-20 inches (40-50 cm) across. I actually recognized a couple plants like the wild Gazania and Morning Glories. And this Snake Aloe almost looks like a rising cobra. Thank goodness we didn’t see snakes.

fossil_museum_1 from Ganora website

The owners of Ganora fossil site were in town when we stopped but would be back in an hour so we continued on to the Owl House and then returned. While Joan went in search of bugs I toured JP’s collection of fossils in awe and totally forgot to take photos. The fossils are on average about 280 million years old, a time when mammal-like-reptiles roamed the earth, pre-dinosaur time.

Longhorn beetleat JP's Ganora sheep ranch Nieu-Bethesda Great Karoo South Africa

JP brought out a longhorn beetle he’d caught in a jar the night before and Joan identified it for him.  She really knows her bugs.

Dam at Ganora Guestfarm Nieu-Bethesda Road Great Karoo South Africa

Ganora Guestfarm is a working sheep ranch offering a variety of overnight accommodations and soon a camp area. I really want to return, camp, visit Bushman rock art, and go fossil hunting with JP.

Nice way to spend an afternoon taking this side trip to Nieu-Bethesda. Have you taken a detour lately?

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South Africa flowers, fossils, Ganora Guestfarm, Nieu-Bethesda, South Africa 14 Comments
19 June 2013

Exchanging energy at Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge South Africa

Outenqua Mts from Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

Shortly after checking in at Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge I sat on the tree-house deck admiring the afternoon light and shadow play on the flanks of the Outeniqua Mountains. Peter asked me, “Do you see the dark places? That’s where the Mountain Men light their fires.” I was smitten.

Jen’s father Peter, almost 92, is known as Grandpa to everybody who visits Wild Spirit in Nature’s Valley, South Africa. A place built from Jen’s dream of Khoinania, communion by intimate participation. More than just a place to stay, a concept flourishes that all who visit absorb and take with them to share along their journey through life.

Jen & husband at Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

Jen’s Dream

After Jen graduated from college she decided to immigrate to Scotland’s Findhorn. On a visit home she shared her dream with family and friends about creating a conscious community. A friend told her about a farm for sale in Nature’s Valley and when she visited knew this was the place. What started with a group of like-minded friends grew into a family operation that involves everyone in the community, resident and visitor alike.

Peter and his late wife helped buy the Khoinania farm in 1978. Jen and husband along with daughter Ola and her partner keep the motivation going along with help from many volunteers.

Outdoor shower, eco-toilets, recycling at Wild Spirit Nature's Valley South Africa

Living Green

Very eco-minded with facilities for recycling, a cold water outdoor shower, and reduced water eco-toilets. Hot water showers also available but please use the bucket to catch the water that would go down the drain and use it to flush the toilet.

Driftwood art at Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

Being so close to the ocean allows for some innovative natural decorating with the gathered driftwood.

Second hand clothes room at Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

For special nights dressing up is encouraged and there’s a room with some pretty interesting selections of donated clothing from travelers around the world.  You can also purchase items that you like.

Reception at Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

More than just a place to stay

What you will find here is community. Travelers from around the world meet and mingle. I met young folks from Germany, Sweden and Argentina and seniors from France. The Baz Bus, a backpackers bus service throughout much of South Africa, stops here. You can volunteer in exchange for board and lodging for up to 3 months while learning how to give selfless service. It’s all about energy exchange!

What's up sign Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

Small waterfall along Waterfall trail at Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

In touch with nature

A magical place filled with positive energy from every person, plant, animal, rock and water. Several short hikes on the property allow visitors to get in touch with nature, and themselves. The Big Tree trail led me to Mama Yellowwood where I just sat for a while absorbing the ancient knowledge of this 900-year-old more than a tree.

 Raindrops on fence & plants Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

One day of my stay a steady fall of female rain kept me and most guests under cover. I sat working on my computer in the common room where WIFI is available and rejoiced in the watering of Mother Earth. I truly appreciated this restful day.

Waterfall & pool reflection Waterfall trail at Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

The next morning, with raindrops still clinging to the forest foliage filled with many small wonders, I hiked to the waterfall. Freshness filled the air. I took extra care climbing over wet rocks and across the little bridge. Ola advised not to be fooled by the first tiny falls as just beyond flows a larger waterfall with a pool perfect for soaking. I did get off trail returning but the little people of the forest set me back on track.

A few miles away from Wild Spirit a longer trail provides access to the beach. I didn’t make that trek this time but other visitors reported a magical experience through the forest.

Wild Spirit accommodations Nature's Valley South Africa

Accommodations & meals

Wild Spirit offers a variety of sleeping accommodations from private room, dorm, tent space and a tree-house. I stayed in my own room with full bath in the Owl House which also had another private room downstairs, more upstairs plus a common area that can be used for four additional people and a little porch to enjoy the view of the Outenquia Mountains.

The original farmhouse has a community kitchen that includes three stoves, two refrigerators, a big table, cupboards for dry food storage, dishes and such, and a cleanup area.  Guests write their names on food packaging to avoid confusion. Interesting to see what various meals are put together by the multi-cultural collection of cooks.

And if you don’t feel like cooking signup for breakfast or dinner at reception. Meals vary depending on who’s cooking. Served buffet style, choices always include vegetarian and meat-eater options. I was impressed and often returned for seconds.  Plus a neighbor employed as the night man brought home-made desert. Hot water, coffee, tea and farm fresh milk are available all day. What could be better than good food and good company?

Reception Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

The Night Owl Bar offers a variety of beverages for those hanging out over diverse conversations in many different languages as travelers share their stories.

Plus just down the road the local dairy sells fresh milk—bring your own container—and hand-crafted cheeses plus home-made jams, fresh bread, cake, rusks and frozen meat and pies. I had a toasted pesto, cheese and tomato sandwich which I’m now duplicating at home. And several times I treated myself to their milkshakes.

Horse at Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

Wild Spirit even offers laundry services.

Nearby activities

Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge provides a great base for many nearby experiences and shopping in The Crags. I posted a few places planned to visit and filled the little rental car with travelers who weren’t driving.

Monkeyland, Birds of Eden & Tenikwa animals The Crags South Africa

Monkeyland offers sanctuary and rehabilitation for multi-species of primates. Not my most comfortable tour between the mosquitos—only place I experienced them in all of South Africa—and the limited habitat.

Birds of Eden allows self-guide in a giant natural-habitat aviary with multi-level boardwalks and trails plus scattered benches that I wish I’d had more time to enjoy.

Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness Centre accepts injured or abandoned wild animals not displaying the animals under rehabilitation. Although humbling to be in the close presence of African wild cats with competent guides this tour proved to be a little too Hollywood for me.

There’s also a nearby Elephant Sanctuary which I decided to pass on. Although I support rehabilitation for animals and hope the tour fees support these efforts, seeing or even being with them in cages breaks my heart. I much rather enjoy wildlife in the wild.

Items for sale at The Mill The Crags South Africa

If you treasure local made I recommend The Mill. I made a beeline for the Mohair Shop and bought socks, a hand-woven queen-size blanket and six skeins of hand-spun mohair to mix with the African silk I bought on my previous visit. If I had more space or more luggage I could have picked out ceramics, sun-dyed textiles, leather products, beads, liquor (OK so I bought some of that) and even furniture. I did pet the goats.

Friends on the beach at Tsitsikamma National Park Nature's Valley South Africa

I was perfectly happy just being at Wild Spirit yet my favorite time away was spent with other guests along with an employee and her daughter at the Nature’s Valley Tsitsikamma beach.

Common room Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

We made a deal before I ever left home, exchanging accommodation for writing/blogging/posts/links. I’d emailed with Ola. In fact I’d previously read about someone’s delighted experience staying at Wild Spirit. Now I know why. After staying three days I left to meet Jo in Knysna then backtracked to Tsitsikamma National Park at Storms River and returned to Wild Spirit for two more days. Even the rainy day was wonderful, peaceful and quiet. A fire burned in the common room. People seemed to almost walk on tiptoes. The rain brought blessing.

Driftwood entrance at Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge Nature's Valley South Africa

Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge is all about the energy, positive, exchanging and peaceful all at the same time. Dogs and cats may welcome you and if you can’t find the reception area to check in just ask anybody you see. Maybe that will be me during my next visit.

Does this look like a place you’d like to stay?

Although Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge provided my overnight accommodations at no charge I paid for meals and all the opinions in this piece are my own.

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10 June 2013

Colorful cliffs at Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

After a week at Kruger National Park I wanted to visit Golden Gate Highlands National Park next. Joan asked, “Are there animals?” “I suppose, but it’s a geology park.”  Then I watched her eyes roll.

Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Yet after crossing the flatlands of the agricultural Free State we were both excited to see the giant cliffs of red and gold surrounded by the rolling green foothills of the Maluti Mountains.

Mushroom Rock Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

I’d researched Golden Gate Highlands a little and put it on the must see list. Sure glad we made it.

Golden Gate Highlands Naional Park South Africa

The park is known for black wildebeest, eland, blesbok, oribi, springbok and Burchell’s zebra, plus many birds including the rare bearded vulture and the equally rare bald ibis, which breed on the ledges in the sandstone cliffs. But except for a few unidentifiable birds we only saw cows.

View from Blesbok Loop drive Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Not the biggest of South African National Parks at a little over 28,000 acres yet Golden Gate is currently the only proclaimed National Park that protects the grassland biome which is the most neglected biome from the point of view of conservation.

View with arch from Echo Ravine trail Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

There are several trails that bring you right up to the rock and we hiked part of the Echo Ravine trail.

Wildflowers at Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Of course it took quite a while because we both stopped to take numerous photos, of the big and small.

View of waterfall behind Reception from Echo Ravine trail Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Seeing a waterfall from our view on the trail we next walked the short trail behind Reception to check it out.

Waterfall Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

The pool below the waterfall provides a natural swimming pool but it wasn’t quite warm enough for a swim that day.

Langtoon Dam above waterfall from loop drive Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

The Oribi and Blesbok loop drives offer spectacular views across the grasslands and a look at the dam above the waterfall.

Geology of Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

There are 3 main layers of rock eroded over time by rivers and streams. The bottom layer is made up of red mud-like sediment deposited by swampy rivers 200 million years ago. On top of that is yellow sandstone from a 196 million year old desert. This topped off by a basalt layer from volcanic activity from 160-190 million years ago.  The black stripes show were water carrying manganese from the basalt seeps out staining the rocks below.

Mushroom Rock Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

The view from our camp below the towering cliffs showed off the brilliant shades of gold cast by the setting sun which gave Golden Gate Highlands its name. And even though it was summer the night temperatures dropped enough I wished for hat and gloves camping at 7200 feet (2200 m).

Joan in camp Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Little Caledon River behind camp Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Little Caledon River behind camp

We only spent two partial days and although we didn’t really see wildlife I’d like to return and spend more time on the trails.

View from loop drive Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Activities

· Hiking short nature trails 1-5 hours and a by-reservation 2 day/1 night

· Self-drive game viewing

· Environmental education courses

· Horse riding by reservation

· Guided Basotho Cultural Village experience

Services

· Pub at hotel

· Day use picnic site with ablution and barbeque

· Fuel Station

· Curio Shop

· Restaurant and Coffee Shop

· Conference facilities

Accommodations

· Glen Reenen Rest Camp

Caravan and camping sites in beautiful shaded grounds

Ablution (bathroom with showers), barbecue facilities and scullery (kitchen)

Power points in ablution block and some camp sites

A maximum of 6 persons, one caravan/tent and one vehicle per site

· Rondavels, Longdavels and Guest Cottages with either one double and two single beds or two single and one stack bed, bathroom (shower) and kitchen with basic equipment

View from Echo Ravine trail Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

“The Free State landscape gladdens my heart, no matter what my mood. When I am here I feel that nothing can shut me in, that my thoughts can roam as far as the horizons.”

– Former State President Nelson Mandela wrote in his autobiography Long Walk to Freedom.

South Africa map where is Golden Gate Highlands National Park

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

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