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Tag: seasonal Park Ranger

13 July 2021

Mid July marks half the summer season at Bryce Canyon

Though it feels like summer has barely begun, especially at 8000 feet, mid July marks half the summer season at Bryce Canyon.  Does it seem like I’m counting the days?  Maybe so.  I’m ready for a vacation.

cliffs clouds SR20 East UtahSR20 east Utah

Not like I don’t get days off, but they seem mundanely filled with chores like a long drive for shopping, and laundry at least a little closer to home.  Last week on a day off I avoided the dignitary visit of the second gentleman, Doug Emhoff.  Fellow park staff reported all went smoothly as he and the entourage were taken to the small out of the way Paria View overlook easily blocked to the public.  He is presumably visiting many national parks and meeting with staff.  Instead, I ended up in the holiday weekend busy town of Cedar City.  What was I thinking?

last light Aquarius Plateau sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI returned to work on Independence Day wondering if we’d be extra busy or not.  Remote national parks are often less busy on 4th of July because of the fireworks’ restrictions.  Didn’t feel any busier than any other day of the week.  Not even much of a noticeable difference between weekends and weekdays this busy summer.  I started at noon and due to nearby lightning worked information inside the visitor center.  Later, after closing the visitor center at 8pm scattered clouds made roving near Sunset Point for sunset a nice way to end the day.  I did hear a few boomers from my home under the Pines that night but am too far from Bryce Canyon City for their show.

After the next day’s 11am Hoodoo geology talk I engaged with a small group of visitors in conversation that went from geology, to cultural history, to archeology and anthropology, and genetics.  I love when this happens.  An approaching storm sent us different directions, me for lunch in the camper.  And that’s where I weathered the storm that came with a vengeance of wind and hard rain.  But not for more than 30 minutes.  I might have taken a nap.

trees sunrise clouds from RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSunrise view from RV door

The next day started hard and felt long.  I’m loosing another friend to cancer.  I’ve known Eddie since high school over 50 years.  Not long ago he was diagnosed Stage 4 and resigned himself to the last journey.  Yet he recently came around and decided not to lie in bed and wait for the end.  Instead he’s getting his RV home ready to roll and travel with family chauffeurs.  He called that morning to share the latest news.  Good news.  And I hope to cross his trail somewhere along the way.  The work day started with opening the visitor center and covering the information desk for an hour.  Then I did a practice run of a revised program from my Oregon Caves days called “I Dig Rocks” to learn how easy it is to identify rocks.  I was thinking of doing this program Saturday during the weekend’s GeologyFest, an annual event that happens at about half the summer season.  But at ten minutes the program is too long for today’s short attention span.  Glad I tried it out first.  After lunch I returned to the information desk for several hours and went home tired and thankful the next day was my Friday, even if it was an early start.

Pink Cliffs valley trees Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter opening and working two hours at the information desk it was time to drive to Yovimpa Point, the southern end of Bryce’s Paunsaugunt Plateau, my happy place.  Away from the hubbub and non-stop busy around the visitor center.  Grand Staircase geology talks are scheduled for 12:30 and 1:30, and sometimes they actually happen at those times.  I do short 10-15 minute versions whenever visitors show interest and lost count that day of how many times.  I talked as much if not more about fire ecology as visitors want to know about the fire evidence they see along the drive and Bristlecone Loop trail.  Two different stories.  A little boy maybe nine-years old asked why we fight fire with fire and not water.  I try to explain how a backburn works in this dry environment when water is readily handy and he quickly figures it out.  Seeing the lightbulb go off over his head is what makes my job so great.  A young (25) man hangs out conversing for over an hour in between my answering visitor questions.  In fact I get back late because we are engaged in good conversation for almost an hour in the parking lot.

Sierra cat RV bed Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAnd then two days off.  Felt good not to have to go anywhere and feel a little lazy.  Finished a post, labeled a whole lot of photos, did a minimal amount of housework, and cleaned the camper fridge.  The last, because I’m planning a road trip for my next days off.  It’s about time after half the summer season.  And so after four days work it’s four days off and I’m going to #PlanLikeAParkRanger, because I am, and head to…

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Bryce Canyon National Park, Places I've been, Seasonal Park Ranger, United States, Utah Park Ranger, seasonal Park Ranger 21 Comments
06 July 2021

And yet another week of Rangering at Bryce Canyon

It’s hard to believe you’re not all tired of reading about my daily grind of Rangering at Bryce Canyon and thinking out loud about the future.  Once I started working on ideas I’ve become calmer about retirement thoughts making work flow better also.  Thanks for listening, sharing, and making suggestions.

Limber Pine roots exposed on rim hoodoos clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLimber Pine roots along the rim exposed by erosion at about one foot every 50 years isn’t even geology

After two days off I returned to work a busy Saturday with a couple hours at the information desk.  Then after the 11am Hoodoo geology talk and some lunch I hung out near Sunrise Point for a couple hours making contacts with over 150 people.  Most want to know about the Queen’s Garden Trail starting down into the hoodoos from that point.  Some seem more prepared than others.  A dog came off the trail with no leash and when I asked if there was a person with the dog I was barely acknowledged and then totally ignored when I informed the person of leash rules and being on a no dog trail.  I called Law Enforcement but nothing came of it.  Seems there always has to be one jerk.  So that’s what comes of Rangering at Bryce Canyon.

Late start is common on Sunday’s schedule as I present the 9pm evening program every other week.  That schedule also includes two two-hour stints at the information desk.  I would so much rather be doing programs or roving somewhere in the park.  The repetitive questions get old.  “I just got here, what shall I do?”  Sometimes I look at them with a smile—thank goodness that can be seen again—and respond, “What did you come here to do?”  Tends to catch them off guard.  So I quickly add, “how long will you be here, do you want to hike or drive?”  Once I’ve oriented them to the map, in the newspaper they were given upon entering the park, I let them make decisions.  I am amazed how many visitors actually read my name tag and thank me by name.  A marvelous payoff for Rangering at Bryce Canyon.  Had several interactive children at my evening program about wildlife, both a blessing and a curse when staying on a schedule.

Next day after desk time I presented the 2pm Hoodoo geology talk then roved around Sunset Point for a couple hours.  Day ended with picking up liter around the perimeter of the overflow parking lot.  Way too many cigarette butts (I can now say that after four years cig free), hair ties, disposable water bottle caps, masks, and much micro-trash from food wrappers and merchandise packaging.  Went home tired and glad for the next day off from Rangering at Bryce Canyon.

hoodoos valley canyons clouds Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA full project day seemed best used as a mental health day preparing for company.  I felt guilty in the morning sitting in front of a heater while the Pacific Northwest temperatures soared higher than the desert Southwest.  How crazy is that?  Climate change?  Finally the park went into Stage 2 fire ban restrictions:  NO campfires, NO fireworks, NO smoking except in vehicle.  I’m betting the adjacent Bryce Canyon City still plans a fireworks display.  All morning and early afternoon the sky was dark and rumbling yet dropped very little rain.  Then just as my friends arrived it started to rain harder.  They brought it with from St George.  I was grateful for that and more.  We sat inside chatting for a bit then the rain stopped and we enjoyed a picnic dinner they brought along before going to the rim for a possible light show.  Ended up at Paria View where I rarely go because it’s a very tiny parking lot.  I now have a whole new respect for this overlook and may return for the next full moon rise.

tree shadows Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

tree shadow Pink Cliff Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWorked Wednesday as my Friday opening the visitor center.  We didn’t get huge amounts of rain at Bryce but below in Zion National Park flooding occurred that trapped people for a few hours and brought a lot of water and mud downhill.  The park closed Thursday afternoon and was already partly opened by Friday morning.  Many visitors either arrive at Bryce from, or are going next to, Zion so they had concerns.  Sadly, we didn’t have any better information than everybody could get on Zion’s webpage and Facebook page.

BRCA BARK Ranger program Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSometimes updates at my own park are hard enough to keep track of.  Like, we now have a B.A.R.K. Ranger program: Bag waste/poop, Always on a leash, Respect wildlife, Know where you can go.  Supposedly we’ll have some card and sealed dog treat to give to dog owners plus merchandise they can purchase.  Oh boy, one more thing to do.  Like we aren’t busy enough Rangering at Bryce Canyon.  2018 set the record at 2.6 million visitors and we are currently up 18% from that without international visitors.

Whiteman trailhead Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI ran away for an afternoon at Yovimpa Point, my happy place at the end of the scenic road, where it’s not so busy yet still chatted with over 100 people.  No rain fell while I watched clouds build to the north.  I did encounter a few drops on the way home and even stopped at Whiteman trailhead for a look at the weather to the east.

trees cliff SR20 West UtahThis followed by three days off from Rangering at Bryce Canyon.  I left the park early on Friday to avoid the issues of the second gentleman, Doug Emhoff, husband of Vice President Kamala Harris, visiting the park.  I drove to Panguitch for breakfast and took SR20 west to I15 for a different, faster, yet pretty route to shop in Cedar City and returned the same way.

Pink Clliffs Navajo Mt clouds Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI do hope monsoon visits the Southwest and brings enough rain to discourage the starting of lightning caused fires.  That would be wonderful for the drought stricken land.  Enjoyed a bit more rain on my days off.

Thursday was a day to remember the Yarnell Hill Fire eight years ago when 19 firefighters lost their lives and over 100 people in Yarnell lost their homes.

Sort of puts things in perspective.  Like why am I whining about my future retirement.  I recently realized retirement plans don’t have to be made forever.  And maybe wishes can come true when friends come through.  Time to move on and make the most of Rangering at Bryce Canyon, as it might be my last season.

Spiderman walking to WalMart Cedar City UtahLook who shops at Wallys.  Maybe shopping at the Fireworks stands in the parking lot.  (Post scheduled before the 4th of July so I am praying no fires are started because of careless fireworks, or Spiderman might have to come to the rescue.)

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01 July 2020

Settling into a still changing routine at Bryce Canyon

trees hoodoos amphitheater Table Cliffs clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAlthough I am sort of settling into a routine at Bryce Canyon we are still introducing new services so schedules change and visitation continues to increase at the park.  Ranger programs are being expanded—but only if the individual feels comfortable and ready—including constellation tours Wednesday through Saturday.  Back-country trails opened July 1st.

trees rock SR89 Kanab UtahNormally, shopping is rather routine except when living in a remote place with a long scenic drive to services.  Last week I spent one of my three-day weekend driving 1 1/2 hours to Kanab for groceries.  Even better was visiting with a friend, who had been evacuated from the North Rim because of the Mangum Fire, over an outside lunch at my favorite Utah Mexican restaurant Escobars.  Shopping was adequate, lunch and company superb.

2020 Mangum burn by Jacob Lake InnSR89 Jacob Lake Inn photo

Friday, SR89A opened through Jacob Lake and the owners and staff of Jacob Lake Inn returned to clean and assess smoke damage from the Mangum Fire.  Two days later they were open for business but not overnight accommodations.  The North Rim Grand Canyon opened for day use June 30th.

Molly's Nipple & No Man's Mesa smoke from Wire Pass fire Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBack to work on Saturday took me to the southern end of the Paunsaugunt Plateau to Yovimpa Point where I managed two Grand Staircase geology talks before the light rain and heavy wind arrived.  New smokes were visible from the previous night’s lightning strike starting the Wire Pass Fire plus general haze from the Mangum Fire.  As of Monday the Wire Pass fire closed House Rock Valley Road from Utah SR89 south to Arizona SR89A.  And that also closed hiking by permit to The Wave.

view northeast from LaFevre overlook by Jacob Lake InnView northeast from LaFevre overlook along SR89 Kaibab National Forest from Jacob Lake Inn photo

As of Sunday morning, the Mangum Fire had reached 71,450 acres at 51% containment and July 1st report at same acreage and 67%.  Monday’s report on the Wire Pass Fire indicated no growth over the 1580 acres, 10% containment, and closures still in place.

I was home Sunday with an upset stomach and slept most of the day having been up half the night feeling nauseous.  Might have eaten some lunchmeat on the edge of bad.  Don’t know what else it could have been as my daily diet doesn’t change much.

Mountain Bluebird Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMountain Bluebird from Rainbow Point

While sitting at my computer, I dearly enjoy watching out the window where I see Chipmunks scurry from pinecone to cone, a pair of Stellar Jays follow from perch to perch and may even hear babies squawking.

Yet not so pleasant when home is the smell of the horse corral through open windows and the noise of tractors moving horse shit around and setting up dust.  In the winter I get really spoiled by almost exclusively the sounds of nature.

hikers hoodoos Wall Street Navajo Loop Trail Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahHikers on Wall Street side of the Navajo Loop Trail

Knowing I had nothing to spread around to others and how short on staff we are I returned to work on Monday feeling better throughout the day.  Scheduled for a 11am hoodoo geology talk near Sunset Point with groups of people keeping respectful distancing, and 1pm unadvertised Rim Walk that didn’t go so instead I roved the rim.  Then ended the day at the information tables outside the visitor center followed by three and a half hours counting people into the visitor center with a limit of 50.  “Yes mam, that does include the bathrooms.”

chipmunk & Haley in RV Bryce Canyon National Park Utah by HaleyRanger Haley and chippy selfie

As much as I love to watch the wildlife, I don’t want them in my house.  Coming home to find a chipmunk sitting on the back of the couch and Sierra, the not very good mouser, watching it from the floor didn’t make me happy.  Where do they get in?  RVs are notorious for small openings allowing in various uninvited small critters.

live trap in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I borrowed a small live-trap from the park’s wildlife folks.  Now set up with peanut butter but no chippy.  Anyone had luck with electric ultrasonic rodent/insect repellers?

hotshots Yarnell Hill Fire from Christopher Mackenzie's recovered cell phoneLate Tuesday afternoon, my Friday, I went roving at Bryce Point, one of my favorite overlooks in the park.  When roving I meet the most wonderful people: folks from Illinois who helped rebuild houses from the Yarnell Hill Fire, seven years ago June 30th when 19 firefighters died.   I met a most amazing family with intelligent and curious teenagers in tow.  People often ask about my last name.  I thought Olmsted was a common enough name and I do get asked if I have relatives in California, Florida and places in between.  Not that I know anyway.  Yet the name also brings to mind Frederick Law Olmsted who I claim as an ancestor and had a history with national parks.  Have I mentioned how much I love my job?

Although seeing an increase in visitation, I’m still enjoying the weirdly wonderful of a whole lot less people this strange summer, and I think visitors are also.  Overlooks are not overcrowded and that’s the way it should be.  I know it’s not like that at all national parks, and they’re not all open.  Of course at Bryce Canyon our typical international visitation makes up 65% of the 2.6 million who visited in 2019.  Compare that to 1929, the first year visitation was recorded, when 5,232 vehicles entered the one-year old Bryce Canyon National Park.  The last week of June 2020 averaged 1,260 vehicles a day.

face mask litter by Sunset parking lot and trail to rim Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNote the mask dropped as litter

I support “America’s Best Idea” behind preserving landscapes, environments, and history for “future generations” from around the world, where the idea has spread.  I don’t want to see anyplace loved to death by overcrowding.

multiple use trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMany of our national parks reached critical mass over a decade ago.  And so many parks were established in the 1920s when nobody envisioned the huge influx of visitors.  Parking lots are small.  Pull-outs built to accommodate maybe half a dozen cars and certainly not huge RVs.  Narrow windy roads through spectacular landscapes made for slow driving.  A few scattered small and intimate campgrounds for tents.  Possibly a few cabins and a lodge for dining.  One hundred years later, it’s much easier to travel in go fast cars and RVs.  Promotional events like the 2016 National Park Service’s Centennial #FindYourPark, Utah’s “Mighty Five”, and social media quickly spread the word.  I’m not judging any of these things as bad.  However, I believe we need more parks—and Rangers—to give visitors a safe and uncrowded experience.

By the way, my rim walk is a history talk about changing connections to the land through cultural and individual time.  I’m ready if you’ll join me, at a safe distance please.  Next week, July 3, 4, and 5 at 4pm starting by Sunset Point.  See you there.

Couch Ranger badgeMost recent addition to my collection of Ranger badges

 

“Visitation to units of the National Park System reached 318 million in 2018, an increase of about 16% from a decade ago, with especially notable increases over the last five years.  But within that system-wide increase, there is great variation among individual parks.  Visitation has increased steeply to some of the most famous parks in the country.  Arches, Zion, Glacier, Acadia, and Yellowstone National Parks, for example, have all experienced significant double-digit percentage increases in growth in visitation over the last decade or so – 30%, 50%, even 60% increases.”

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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