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Exploring the Square Tower loop at Hovenweep National Monument

Hovenweep Castle Hovenweep National Monument UtahHovenweep Castle

I had hoped to photograph the lunar eclipse with a tower ruin in the foreground but couldn’t because the ruins’ areas are closed at sunset so waited until the following day to explore Hovenweep National Monument.

Twin Towers & Eroded Boulder House Hovenweep National Monument UtahTwin Towers & Eroded Boulder House (my favorite)

“Hovenweep” is a Paiute and Ute word meaning “deserted valley” and was named by pioneer photographer William H Jackson who visited in 1874.

Stronghold House Hovenweep National Monument UtahStronghold House

Established as a National Monument in 1923 Hovenweep is made up of six separate units spread over a 20-mile stretch of mesa tops and canyons.  All units are open to the public but most are in remote locations and are difficult to reach.  The Ranger in the visitor center told us the landscape is dotted with ruins.

Map Square Tower trail Hovenweep National Monument UtahWe only had time to explore the Square Tower area, an easy loop trail of 2 miles mostly on top of the mesa and dog friendly.  Plus it wasn’t crowded.

Twin Towers, Eroded Boulder House & Stronghold House Hovenweep National Monument UtahTwin Towers, Eroded Boulder House & Stronghold House

A small spring at the head of Little Ruin Canyon along with rainwater sustained an ancestral Pueblo community over 700 years ago allowing the people to flourish in what looks like a harsh environment.  I could almost hear people talking and children laughing as life evolved around these clusters of buildings.

Twin Towers Hovenweep National Monument UtahTwin Towers

Their masonry skills were impressive constructing with local rock, wood and mud mortar to create a variety of geometric shapes.  There has been little excavation and lots of speculation by archaeologists who aren’t sure if the structures were observation towers, communication structures, defensive bastions, ceremonial edifices, living quarters or all of these things.

Hovenweep House, Square Tower & Hovenweep Castle Hovenweep National Monument UtahHovenweep House, Square Tower & Hovenweep Castle

Barriers restrict visitors from getting close to the ruins in an effort to preserve these sites.  Yet we saw a man (blue shirt) apparently leading a group of photographers go off trail to the square tower in a blatant disregard for the rules not to mention setting a bad example for his tour group.

Gaelyn getting JR badge Hovenweep National Monument UtahHaving just earned my Junior Ranger badge maybe I should have busted him.

Map of Hovenweep National Monument UtahDefinitely need more time for exploration including Canyons of the Ancients National Monument across the border in Colorado.

Hatch Trading Post UtahMade a quick stop at the historic Hatch Trading Post which looks more interesting from the outside than in.  A sign on the door said “No Cameras” but I can’t understand what was in the store of importance other than cold soda and beer plus some canned goods on the shelves that look like they’ve been there a long time.  So we were off to Natural Bridges with the hope of getting a campsite for the night.

Hovenweep National Monument, Utah , 25 Comments

What a difference a day makes – Walhalla Plateau

Ranger Gaelyn at Walhalla overlook North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Note the greenish color of the Colorado River below
I worked out on the Walhalla Plateau two days in a row. There is a daily 1:30pm Ranger talk at the Walhalla overlook, one of three places on the North Rim where you can see the Colorado River.
Colorado River from Walhalla overlook North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaNote the muddy color of the river
This is how the river looked the next day after rain the day before. I love to see the reddish color the river was named after, in Spanish Rio de Colorado means River of Red. Since the Glen Canyon Dam was completed in 1963 the river typically only runs red when tributaries below the dam flash from a rain. From this lookout that could only be the Paria or the Little Colorado Rivers.
Ancestral Puebloan ruin Walhalla Glades North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWalhalla Glades Puebloan ruin
Ancestral Puebloans (previously known as Anasazi) built this structure around 1050 AD for summer occupancy when they dry farmed corn, beans and squash on the Plateau. During winter they returned to the canyon, many to Unkar Delta seen in the bend of the Colorado River in the first two photos. Without sediments in the river to rebuild sandbars and deltas many archeological sites along the river are in danger of being eroded away.
Ancestral Puebloan granary along Cliff Spring trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaPuebloan granary
Food was stored in granaries built into shallow caves below the rim, or like this one found along the Cliff Spring trail.
Every day offers a new experience.
Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park North Rim , , 21 Comments

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