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Tag: rock art

20 July 2015

Canyon scramble to search for rock art

Map showing canyon hiked Kanab UtahIt’s a small and beautiful side canyon off Angel Canyon where Kanab Creek flows.  There’s really not an established trail so required a canyon scramble to search for rock art.

Canyon hiked Kanab UtahBill parked on a two track off the highway and suggested we scramble down a sandy bank through dense vegetation, cross the creek and back up on the other side.  Not wanting to walk in sand with wet shoes that didn’t look real appealing to me so the other option was to walk across a bridge on the highway and trail blaze, which is what we did.  Actually we followed a semi-trail that could have been made by animals and used by people too.  We still had to cross a dry wash that feeds into the creek to get to the sandstone cliffs where the suspected rock art might be.  Looking across I thought I saw some possible scratching on a patina surface which turned out to be natural.

Canyon hiked Kanab UtahMany options for kind of trails down appeared and we finally chose one that looked the least steep then slid down the sand to the bottom about 80 feet and walked up the wash looking for the best place to get back up on the other side.  Bill was post-holing in the sand on the way up and I tried to follow his steps but his stride is longer than mine, yet I’m lighter and didn’t sink in as far.  Once on the bench we worked our way to the cliff face and began to look for rock art walking up canyon.

Toadstools in canyon Kanab UtahThe sandstone formations are so breathtaking it really didn’t matter if we found anything.

Shelter in canyon hiked Kanab UtahThere is a fire ring with log seats around it and then we saw this old structure which is accessed through a crack in the rock.  With a tin roof over timbers and a sweet little oil-can stove it looked pretty habitable to me.  Hard to say when the last time it was actually used but there was some rather modern trash around.

Indigenous, historic & contemporary rock art Kanab UtahWe continued ahead just a bit to the head of the canyon where we finally found the rock art, indigenous, historic and contemporary.  Once again, people add their story to the same area of rock, plus a few bullet holes.  Looked like sand deposits had buried some of the petroglyphs.

Sawed out rock in canyon hiked Kanab UtahThis sawed out piece of rock was a curiosity.  Wonder if someone cut out a petroglyph.

Circular spalled rock in canyon hiked Kanab UtahOf course the natural “rock art” is just as spectacular as the human if not more so.

Looking down canyon hiked Kanab UtahWe followed the cliff face back down the canyon admiring the views.  The truck was parked almost at the foot of the farthest bluff in the center of the above photo.

Princes Plume & Sacred Datura in canyon hiked Kanab UtahPrinces Plume was everywhere with some sacred datura thrown into the mix.

Looking up canyon hiked Kanab UtahWe went back down, crossed the wash and climbed back up again.  By now, both a little tired so had to stop a couple times along the way but we made it out to explore more the next day in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.  But those stories are for another post.

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Kanab, Utah petroglyphs, rock art 21 Comments
07 July 2015

Stories in stone: Rock Art by nature and humans

Stories in stone have been left by nature and what humans call “rock art” for many thousands of years.  Is it communication, graffiti, art or vandalism?

Iron staining on Navajo sandstone Kanab UtahTwice in the last two months I’ve come across the idea of what is commonly known as “rock art” not being art at all, but stories.  Charley, from the Pauite tribe, said his people have art but the work on the rock is story.  Archaeologist Doug McFadden agrees.  I love stories, to read, share, interpret and learn from.  Long before European Americans settled in Kanab, Utah indigenous people lived along Kanab Creek.  Yet even before that, millions of years ago nature created rock art of her own.

Last week, Bill showed me some local rock art that included geologic, indigenous, historic (older than 50 years) and contemporary stories in stone.

Navajo sandstone bluff Kanab UtahGeologic Story

Grand Staircase stratificationI have long admired the colorful cliffs of Navajo sandstone spread around southern Nevada, northern Arizona, northwest Colorado and Utah.  Several national parks and monuments like Zion, Capital Reef, Glen Canyon, Vermilion Cliffs, and Canyonlands include erosional features of Navajo sandstone.

Early Jurassic 195 mya paleogeographic map North America
Early Jurassic 195 mya
Late Jurassic 150 mya paleogeographic map North America
Late Jurassic 150 mya

 

Beginning as sand dunes about 190 million years ago in an arid sand sea or erg, the Arabic word meaning dune field, on the Western portion of the Supercontinent Pangaea.  In its current state, it covers 102,300 square miles. During the Jurassic, it might have been two and a half times larger.  The story of ancient life has been left behind in the form of dinosaur tracks and stromatolite fossils. Navajo sandstone bluff Kanab UtahChanging directions of ancient winds can be read in the layered bedding planes once erosion reveals the story of a different climate and landscape than seen today.

Navajo sandstone bluff Kanab UtahVertical cliffs of up to 2,200 feet (670 m) often topped by massive domes of white are capped by the 160 million year old Carmel Formation made up of alternate layers of reddish-brown siltstone, whitish-gray gypsum and limestone that continue the geologic story.

Iron staining on Navajo sandstone Kanab UtahThen add black, brown, crimson, vermillion, orange, salmon, peach, pink, gold, and yellow colors.  Depending on the properties of the sandstone, iron oxides like hematite, goethite and limonite precipitate within spaces between quartz grains leaving colorful bands and painted patinas.

Native petroglyphs Kanab UtahIndigenous Story

Sometimes the patina also makes a nice palette for petroglyphs created by chipping away the outer dark later to reveal the light colored rock beneath.  The amount of patina staining an existing petroglyph and the style can help establish how long ago the story was told.  The Kaibab Paiute established themselves in the area for the last 1000 years.  Prior to that the landscape was occupied by Ancient Puebloan, or Anasazi people.

Possible petroglyphs Kanab Utah

Possible petroglyphs Kanab UtahI am fascinated by the First People’s stories in stone even if my interpretation is different than the authors.  Sometimes figures seem obvious and other markings are difficult to read or impossible to tell if they are truly very old.

Native petroglyphs Kanab Utah

Native petroglyphs Kanab UtahAnd sometimes the patina has covered the ancient petroglyphs making them barely discernible.

Possible small granary Kanab UtahWe saw what might be a Native ruin, if it’s very old probably the remains of a granary or food storage area.

Historic Story

A little more modern markings on rock are still considered historic if over 50 years old from present.  These tend to be names and dates in proclamation of “Kilroy was here.”

Historic & modern petroglyphs Kanab UtahEarly pioneers passed by this area in the 1850s and eventually 10 Mormon families founded the town of Kanab, Utah in 1870.  They too left a story on the sandstone pallet which requires more research than I chose to delve into.

Historic petroglyph advertising Kanab UtahNot sure how I feel about advertising on the rocks from around the turn of the 20th century.  Is it graffiti or vandalism?  Whichever, it is now considered part of history.

Contemporary rock art Kanab UtahContemporary Story

It seems people are attracted to adding their own story to rock where there is already markings, sometimes obliterating the early “rock art” or as a nearby addition.  I see absolutely no excuse for modern vandalism.   Yet Associate Professor in the School of Communication at Northern Arizona University in Flagstaff Richard Rogers argues that these repeated additions in the same place could be a form of communication across time and cultures.  Wonder if that’s like the interaction on social media, stories with no stones.

Alcove in Navajo sandstone Kanab UtahI guess we could say leaving our stories on rock could be historic, in the future.  But that would probably only hold true if you became famous otherwise you could be fined as a vandal depending on where you leave your mark.  Think I’ll just continue to explore and appreciate the more ancient stories in stone and share some photos online.  To me, many times, rock IS the art.

 

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20 May 2013

Snake Gulch rock art

I went to Snake Gulch to see Native American rock art, not snakes.  I’d heard this is where to find some of the best preserved prehistoric rock art along the Kaibab Plateau.  And although I only hiked in about 2 1/2 miles out of the 22 mile possibility I saw some very impressive pictographs and petroglyphs.

FR 642 Kaibab NF AZ

Always a beautiful drive through the Kaibab National Forest and FR642 ended on the edge of Kanab Creek Wilderness.  At one time prior to the canyons wilderness designation in 1984 there was a road that accessed Snake Gulch, but now only hikers and equestrians frequent this spiritual experience.  Hiking was very easy with the lack of any significant elevation gain or loss.

Old ranch ruin Snake Gulch Kaibab NF AZ

Just before entering the wilderness area I saw this ruin that surely wasn’t native made but instead was evidence of ranchers once using the gulch to run cattle.

Snake Gulch trail Kanab Creek Wilderness Kaibab NF AZ

I walked the narrow trail keeping my eyes peeled for snakes, scanning back and forth, ears attentive for a insistent rattle.  At first the regularity of grasshoppers jumping from just ahead gave me a start.  Not a lot of other sounds, an occasional bird, but mostly just the whispery wind.  And good thing for a breeze as the sun beat down with no shade in sight.

Snake Gulch trail Kanab Creek Wilderness Kaibab NF AZ

I would stop to scan the irregular canyon walls with their horizontal layers deposited 270 million years ago by an ancient sea.  The power of water carved this canyon later on and left rich soil where the native people planted crops.

Rock shelter along Snake Gulch trail Kanab Creek Wilderness Kaibab NF AZ

They found shelter in shallow caves, a place to call home and raise a family.

Rock art panel Snake Gulch trail Kanab Creek Wilderness Kaibab NF AZ

Several of the Snake Gulch rock art panels are listed on the National Register of Historic Places because of the artistic and distinctive painted and pecked designs that date back as far as 500 BC.  Paint was made from plants or minerals ground into powder and mixed with animal fat or plant oil.

Rock art panel Snake Gulch trail Kanab Creek Wilderness Kaibab NF AZ

They have survived in this timeless environment.  Some are fading from weathering while others have broken off the rock face.  Unfortunately some vandalism has also occurred and could be unintentional by touching and leaving oils behind which causes the paint to deteriorate.  Respect must be observed in this ancient place.  Whether we understand the meanings behind the art doesn’t really matter because the images reflect changes over time for people of the past.

View from rock shelter Snake Gulch Kanab Creek Wilderness Kaibab NF AZ

I continued beyond the shelter a short distance, but it called me back.  I wanted to sit on the well polished rocks that had fallen long before the native people used this place.  Black smoke stains from their fires long ago still clung to the rock.  I felt at peace.

Lizard Snake Gulch Kanab Creek Wilderness Kaibab NF AZ

And other than the spirits, only a lizard joined me for company.

Snake Gulch Kanab Creek Wilderness Kaibab NF AZ

How to get there

From Jacobs Lake Hwy 67, drive west on FR461 for 5 miles then continue west on FR462 for 3 miles to FH22.  Turn left and go 1.5 miles to FR423.  Turn right and go 1.25 miles to FR642.  Follow FR642 for 2 miles to the end at the trailhead.  The gravel road is passable in a sedan, but the last 3 miles could be a bit difficult when wet.

Snake Gulch trail #59 is 44 miles round trip.  Camp nearby and get an early start.  Best to hike in spring or fall as there is absolutely no shade and will get quite hot during summer.

Please visit with respect.

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Arizona, Kaibab National Forest Arizona, hike, Kaibab National Forest, Kanab Creek Wilderness, rock art, Snake Gulch trail 33 Comments

Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

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