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Rim to Rim Grand Canyon hike Day 1 – Part 1

Gaelyn's backpack weighs 23 pounds North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMy pack weigh in 
Packed the night before our rim to rim Grand Canyon hike and I was sure Amy’s pack weighed much more than Jan or mine’s. But they were 24, 25, and 26 pounds. Not too bad. They did seem to get heavier along the way though.
Gaelyn, Amy & Jan North Kaibab trail head North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaGaelyn, Amy and Jan
Left about 9:30am and mid 40sF. FabGrandma drove us to the trailhead so we wouldn’t have to leave a car or walk an extra two miles. Thanks Karen!
Fall colors Roaring Springs Canyon North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaView into Roaring Springs Canyon from North Kaibab trailhead
The fall colors of Quaking Aspen and Rocky Mountain Maple were still brilliant as we quickly dropped in elevation through the Douglas-fir forest. The ladies were already in awe. They had driven in the night before and hadn’t even looked into the canyon.
View south from North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaNorth Kaibab trail into Roaring Springs Canyon
Our route began at 8250 feet (2515 meters) and it’s a 3000 foot (930 meters) drop to the intersection of Bright Angel Canyon.
Only 10 miles (16.1 km) across as the Condor flies.
Mule riders at Coconino overlook North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMule riders on Coconino overlook
It’s .7 miles (1.1 km) to this first great overlook. Many day hikers come this far. The overlook sits at the bottom of the Toroweap limestone deposited some 270 million years ago by an inland sea and on top of the Coconino sandstone formed by dunes some 275 million years ago.
North Rim from North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFall colors below the Coconino sandstone
Two miles (3.2 km) down it was almost 60F where we removed layers at the Supai Tunnel, blasted into the rock by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) during the 1930s. Also used the services, compost toilet, and topped off water bottles for the 4 miles (6.4 km) to the Roaring Springs Ranger residence where the next water was available. Unfortunately the water spigot at Roaring Springs only 3 miles (4.8 km) away had been broken most of the summer.
Redwall bridge below North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaLooking down to the Redwall Bridge
The habitat below the tunnel changes to a pinyon-juniper woodland with cliff rose, broadleaf yucca, Utah serviceberry and rabbitbrush. The stair-stepped red rock of the Supai Group formed between 315 and 285 million years ago.
Still a long way to go ladies.
Fossil in Supai group North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFossil of possibly a conifer
The Supai reveals a variety of rock reflecting changes in coastal conditions as sea levels fluctuated.
Calcite crystals North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaCalcite crystals
Conglomerate North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaConglomerate of pebbles
Geology interpretation sign North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
We crossed the Redwall Bridge into a desert environment and continued hiking down canyon to our camp for the night at Cottonwood.
Grand Canyon National Park, National Parks and Monuments , , , , 42 Comments

Hiking Grand Canyon 2009 Part 5

North Rim & Plateau Point
After I had a sleepless night at Indian Garden—I don’t sleep well on the ground—and oatmeal for breakfast, our crew was suppose to wait for the South Rim Rangers to hike down with sandwiches for lunch. They weren’t expected until after noon and I became concerned about how long it would take me to hike the remaining 4.6 miles (7.4 km) 3060 feet (933 m) up.

North Rim, Plateau Point, Indian Garden (green in middle) & 3-mile house
I talked my boss into letting me leave at 11am, as I am the slowest hiker. And good thing, as I met the South Rim folks about 1:30pm at 3-mile house where there is water and toilets.

North Rim & 1.5-mile house
And that put me hiking up Jacob’s Ladder during the heat of the day, which is certainly not recommended to visitors. So glad it wasn’t the high heat of July or August which can easily reach triple digits.

South Rim
I just kept plodding along at my slow yet steady pace and trying not to look up at how far I still had to go.

South Rim
The last stretch is a series of tight switchbacks that traverses the green area between the Redwall limestone walls.

Condors
I was almost at the top when some other hikers pointed out what might be Condors soaring above the canyon.

Condor
Sure enough, when a couple of them landed we could see the radio tags on their wings, just too far away to ready the numbers.

I made it
I topped out on the South Rim at 6pm. The boss arrived 10 minutes later and she’d left 3-mile house at 3pm. Everyone else trickled in within the next hour.

From the top
In the morning at training you could certainly tell who’d hiked as we all walked a little like Frankenstein.I made it and didn’t even suck air, like last year. So I’m ready to do it again. Who’s with me?

 

Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, National Parks and Monuments , 17 Comments

Hiking the Grand Canyon 2008 Part 1

Part 1 Hiking the Grand Canyon because it’s a long hike, and my first rim to rim

Roaring Springs and Bright Angel Canyons from North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaRoaring Springs canyon to Bright Angle canyon from North Rim

Last summer I was hired as a Park Ranger at Grand Canyon National Park, a dream come true.
2008 Staff ready to hike rim to rim North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Wes, Andrea, Robin, Gaelyn, Amala, Bill and Jamie
As part of my almost three weeks of training I hiked the Grand Canyon with six other Rangers, rim to rim, north to south, in three days and two nights. It was 27 degrees F at 9:30am when we started down the North Kaibab Trail at 8,250 feet.
Standing in Supai Tunnel North Kaibab trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Robin in Supai Tunnel
Supai Tunnel was blasted in the 1930s. This is located almost two miles down with a drop of 1450 feet. Water and compost toilets are located near the tunnel. Many day hikers come this far before returning to the North Rim.
North Kaibab trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
North Kaibab trail to Roaring Springs
By then it was warm enough to reduce layers. I never needed those long pants or fleece again, just had to carry them. But weather can change so rapidly it’s good to be prepared.
Looking up Roaring Springs North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Looking north back up to trailhead
My pack weighed about 30 pounds with just the basics, including plenty of snacks and water.
Needle's Eye North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Needle’s Eye North Kaibab trail
Roaring Springs waterfall North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Roaring Springs
We took the short side trail to Roaring Springs where there’s potable water and compost toilets. The springs pour out of the canyon walls high above and flow into Bright Angel Creek. The National Park Service does not recommend a round trip day hike beyond this point, 4.7 miles one way with a 3000 foot drop in elevation.
Hiking on the North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Gaelyn along trail
In the late 1920s, Utah Parks Company a concessionaire, built a pipeline from Roaring Springs to the North Rim to provide for all water needs. From 1965-70, another pipeline was built to the South Rim.
North Kaibab trail along Bright Angel Creek Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Trail along Bright Angel Creek
We continued to descend another two miles further to Cottonwood Camp where we stopped for the night. At this point we’d dropped about 4200 feet in almost seven miles. It sure felt good to get off my feet. Yet downhill hadn’t been too bad. Knees felt good. Just tired, a good kind of tired. Slept on the ground under the stars and could see a far off light high above from the North Rim’s Grand Lodge.
North Kaibab trail along Bright Angel Creek Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
More trail along Bright Angel Creek
Up to this point we’d all hiked pretty much together. But in the morning everyone left separately and hiked at their own pace.
Bridge over Bright Angel Creek leads to Ribbon Falls Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Bridge over Bright Angel Creek leads to Ribbon Falls
About one mile below the campground a spur trail leads to Ribbon Falls. I opted not to add any extra miles. Maybe next time.
Agave along Bright Angel Creek North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Agave
So I continued following Bright Angel creek into…
The Box North Kaibab trail along Bright Angel Creek Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
The Box
…the Box, one of the most amazing sections of the trail yet. It hugs the 1200 foot high gorge walls and crosses the creek, on bridges, several times.
Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Phantom Ranch
Suddenly the box opens up to Phantom Ranch, a surprisingly green and open grassy area with willows and cottonwoods. In 1907 David Rust set up the first tent houses for visitor accommodations when hiking the Grand Canyon and later in 1921 Mary Colter designed the still used Phantom Ranch facilities.
NPS bunkhouse Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
The bunkhouse
I wandered wearily into the National Park Service bunkhouse and as I dropped my pack was offered a cold beer. All I heard was cold. I don’t usually drink beer, but it sure tasted good. Put up my tired feet and enjoyed the view. I had hiked almost 14 miles and dropped about 5800 feet in elevation.
Looking up at South Rim from Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
View from the bunkhouse
OMG, I still had to climb out of this hole.

I want you all to know; I was extremely nervous about hiking the Grand Canyon and had almost talked myself out of going up to the night before we left. Then another Ranger reminded me that “it’s just one step at a time.”

To camp overnight in the Grand Canyon requires permits many months in advance. You must be prepared both physically and mentally for this adventure.

Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, National Parks and Monuments , , , , 42 Comments

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