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Tag: Park Ranger

08 July 2020

Busier at Bryce Canyon with a holiday hoodoo moon

Thors Hammer last light Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahStarted off as a quiet week but then got busier at Bryce Canyon with a holiday hoodoo moon rising.

trees hoodoos SR12 E UtahI am always happy to work on holidays as I don’t want to be out traveling anywhere.  So I  made a quick trip to Tropic for a few groceries and treated myself to lunch at IDK BBQ—plus a couple dinners from leftovers—before the Independence Day weekend.     Other than a couple town trips for groceries I really haven’t gone anywhere out of the park.

Skippy the hippy Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSkippy the Hippy

The quietness must have been the lull before the storm because starting Friday the crowds increased.  And was it just the full moon, or more idiot unprepared visitors that made me want to scream.  Don’t think I was the only Ranger who felt that way, especially by the end of the weekend when it quieted down a bit.

Yet when walking down the Navajo trail a few switchbacks with just enough hikers passing in both directions I decided not to howl at the holiday hoodoo moon.  But I’m getting ahead of myself.

clouds over Bryce Point from Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFriday a storm blew through complete with rain, thunder, and lightning.  The heavy clouds cancelled the park’s scheduled moon walk and my idea of going to the rim for an almost full moon over the hoodoos.  I did have a few people join me for the 2pm hoodoo geology talk and roved near the Navajo Loop trailhead before it started to rain.  Then back at our information tables outside the visitor center when I really noticed the increase in people.

In fact, by the time I got home that night I was in a foul mood and ready to scream, “GO HOME!” What are these people all doing out on a vacation not wearing masks during a pandemic?  I began to wish I wasn’t here and could go back to isolating in some gorgeous natural place with no people.  It’s rather early in the season to wish for it to be over already.  Yet nothing is normal about this summer.

Besides, it would be more difficult to find that quiet natural place to isolate right now because RV rentals and sales are up 300-400% making it hard to find places to disperse camp.  Again I kind of wanted to scream, “STAY HOME!” Now is not the time to go in debt buying a new RV you know nothing about then taking it down the highway and not even know what to cook for dinner.  I’ve seen that question repeatedly on RV groups.  (OK, enough ranting, maybe.)

tree exposed roots hoodoos Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThank goodness much needed synchronicity happened the next day when I separately met two wonderful women, younger than me, on their first solo road trips and was reminded of myself at 22-years old traveling to Southwest national parks in my Vega with a large dog.  They’d both lost jobs because of COVID19 and decided to seek independence.  So even though crazy busy again, they renewed my faith in at least some of humanity.

hoodoos full moon Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahClear skies on the 4th of July probably made those watching fireworks happy.  I am always happy to live in a national park at that time where fireworks are illegal.  I do like the colors, really dislike the noise, and worry much about possible injury and fire.  So for me, much better to make photographs while watching the light of the holiday hoodoo moon, and presumably a partial penumbra eclipse.  So I headed down the Navajo Loop Trail a few switchbacks to get below the hoodoos.

hoodoos full moon Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahGetting home past bedtime, I didn’t look the shots over until the morning and processed a few of what I consider the best.  That’s about 1% of the many taken.  Once seen on the larger laptop screen I wondered why I, A. didn’t see an eclipse, and B. why the moon looked ovoid, flattened somehow before realizing that was the result of the partial eclipse.

hoodoos full moon Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahEclipses happen when Earth’s shadow falls on the moon and this was only the lighter, outer shadow, known as the penumbra.

hoodoos Penumbra Eclipse full moon Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahJuly’s full moon is widely known as the buck moon, named because mid-summer is when male deer, called bucks, grow their new antlers.  However, it’s also known as the thunder moon in reference to the summer’s frequent thunderstorms, which we all hope happen soon.

valley White Cliffs Molly's Nipple smoke from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMonday, the schedule took Paula and me to Yovimpa Point, the furthest south overlook in Bryce Canyon.  Here we talked about the vast landscape seen below with a 90 mile view to the North Kaibab Plateau on the far horizon.  We tried a ‘tag team’ approach on the Grand Staircase talks with her version first taking visitors on a visual journey across the land and me following with more details and sharing of images and rocks.  Worked really well.  People liked it and said they learned some new things.

Ben Ranger Gaelyn & Josh plaza Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMy Friday on Tuesday included time counting visitors in and out of the visitor center and answering questions at the outdoor information area.

Prarie dogs Bryce Canyon National Park UtahPrairie dogs (look closely bottom center)

Mule deer crossing truck SR63 Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMule deer

Then I presented my first evening program of the season, “Where’s the Wildlife?” about habits and habitat of wildlife in Bryce.  Was a small group of only ten but went pretty well once I got my laptop hooked up to the park’s system.

Black Witch Moth Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBlack Witch Moth-6 inches across (phone shot)

Looks like I’ll be working one of my next three days off to help fill in for a sick, not COVID, employee.  That nine hours of overtime will make for a really nice pay check and I’m saving for a new camera.  After switching lenses to test the wonky auto-focus I am almost convinced it’s a camera body problem.  Yet I still ask, is it me or the camera?

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Bryce Canyon National Park, CORVID-19, full moon, Places I've been, United States, Utah Park Ranger, photography 30 Comments
24 June 2020

Bryce Canyon first at setting the bar

valley Table Cliff clouds Bryce Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBryce Canyon first national park in the nation to present live Ranger programs.  We are setting the bar in Utah national parks and even the visitors comment on how we have our act together.

Although Bryce is making history with firsts I am not.  Didn’t get the camper emptied or cleaned over last week’s two days off as planned.  Maybe this week with three days off.

Cockcomb Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahFirst field trip

Last week, instead of an unpleasant cleaning chore, I went on my first field trip of the summer with fellow Ranger April.  She was sent with a government truck into Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument to gather rock samples and I went along for the ride safety.  No permit needed for non commercial purposes, 25 pounds per day, plus one piece, with a total limit of 250 pounds per year.

Cottonwood Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahEast off the Paunsaugunt Plateau on Utah’s Scenic Byway 12 to Cannonville then south on Cottonwood Canyon Road, which can be impassable even to all-wheel-drive vehicles under wet conditions.  But it’s been dry so there was just dust and washboard to deal with, along with amazing scenery.

Cottonwood Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahWe drove along an eroded geologic fault, parallel to the Cockscomb’s dramatic shapes and colors where the Carmel and Entrada formations are turned upright along the East Kaibab monocline.  Then continued not quite to the junction with SR89 observing the stratigraphy while geologist April decided where to gather on the return trip.

Navajo sandstone Lower Hackberry Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Utah

Navajo sandstone calcite boxwork Lower Hackberry Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahStopped at Lower Hackberry for samples of Navajo sandstone with intricate calcite boxwork.

Cottonwood Narrows Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Utah

rocks from Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahThen further north at Cottonwood Narrows with colorful, jagged Navajo Sandstone pinnacles lining the road and gathered some fine samples showing ripple marks.

Sadly, I left my big camera behind and had to shoot with the phone.  Even worse I got bit up by gnats and now have a whole bunch of bumps and itches on my face.

Bryce Canyon museum opens

sunflower Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahThe museum in the visitor center opened and now we allow 50 people into the building. People stay longer because of that so frequently there is a line to get in.  We are still counting at the door, not my favorite shift as I’m lousy at numbers and math.  The displays have to be sanitized a couple times a day so the area is briefly closed to the public.  The movie theater is still closed as distancing would have to be monitored in such a small space.  We do not have enough staff for that.  As it is, some schedules are opening or closing without other National Park Service staff.  Thank goodness we work as partners with the Natural History Association employees and help each other breaking down the day setup of merchandise, tables, and popup tents as needed.

hoodoos amphitheater Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBryce Canyon first Ranger programs

We started scheduled and advertised Ranger programs on the 21st, first full day of summer, Mom’s birthday (she’d have been 96), and Father’s Day.  Bryce is the only national park in the nation to do so, and will continue if the public can follow distancing guidelines.  Just before the 2pm hoodoo talk a visitor told me about a woman coming up the trail with a bad ankle being supported by two people. I could see them only a few switchbacks down the Navajo trail and radioed for medical assistance. When I returned to the tables moments before I should start the talk several groups of people were standing on the distancing dots waiting. I was impressed and thanked them for doing the right thing which allowed me to drop mask and talk.

If all goes well and the night sky is clear, laser constellation tours by interns will start this week.

The same day started longer open hours from 8am to 8pm.  Ranger info is still outside the building.

Not a first for more bug bites on my face.  After work and washing my face I was speckled with pink dots of Calamine lotion.  When did that stuff get so runny in consistency?

smoke Mangum fire from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Monument Utah

Mangum fire map 6-23-20In fact those nasty biting gnats eventually chased Ranger Paula and me off Yovimpa Point at the end of our day.  But not before I presented one and a half formal Staircase geology talks out of a possible four, talked about the Mangum fire, and answered questions.

cows by horse corral Bryce Canyon National Park UtahCows are not wildlife

wrangler leading horses & mules Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMaybe the wranglers can roundup the stray cattle

A Bryce Canyon first for me was coming home after work to maybe a dozen cows outside the horse corral 100 feet from my door.  I called the non-emergency dispatch number in Glen Canyon and in the brief time it took for Law Enforcement to arrive the cows had wandered northward, still in the park.  Must have a break in the fence along the border between grazeable national forest and Bryce National Park.  The UCC (Utah Conservation Corp) crew of youth have been walking the fence to make needed repairs.

Cottonwood Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahVisitors to Bryce Canyon act respectful and keep distancing, for the most part anyway.  I am noticing many large family-like groups.  They seem grateful for many Bryce Canyon firsts and frequently thank Rangers for their service.  I notice more people wearing masks to enter the visitor center than out at overlooks or trails.  I am wearing mine when in uniform in the public except for outside roving on trails when at a safe distance from others.  And now some counties in Utah, including Garfield and Kane that Bryce straddles, have gone Green, “the new normal”.  Not sure I see that as a good thing.

valley Table Cliffs clouds Cannonville UtahNext…

Come my Friday on Tuesday, and trying to decide what to do with my three-day weekend, other than the laundry I put off last week partly because it’s a bitch to find parking near either of the free/included in rent, in park options.

Feels like the summer season has barely started yet the season is almost half over already.  OMG, I find myself already thinking about what to do at the end of the season and over the winter which brings me back to owning two RVs I can’t move together.

Even after resetting the outside booster antennae my signal is not great, but guess that’s not a Bryce Canyon first.

Push my buttons!

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17 June 2020

Expanding services at Bryce Canyon

Silent City hoodoos amphitheater Rim trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahExpanding services at Bryce Canyon increases visitation, both numbers and locality.  It’s beginning to look more like summer but without tour buses.

late light on Ponderosa Pine thru RV window Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThank goodness we’re not as busy as Zion, and seemingly more organized as I hear from visitors.  However, the number of vehicles entering the park continues to increase with more RVs.  A few weeks ago people I talked to were semi-local (it’s a big circle) from Utah, Arizona, Nevada, and southern California with some from Washington.  Lately, I’m meeting more folks from the Midwest and East coast.  Is COVID19 over?  Many are not wearing masks.  Yet visitation is still lower than last year due to cancelled tours, reservations, vacations, and travel restrictions.

purple Penstemon flowers Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahIncreasing temperatures also indicate summer is on the way.  From cold 30°F mornings early last week to an almost balmy 50°F this week the highs are reaching almost 80°F.  Sitting outside in the shade of the visitor center a week ago Monday with high winds chilled me to the bone.  So I moved inside to count people coming in and out to a limit of 40 people in the building.  Late that day one of the popups went flying and now we have to take the tops off if winds are predicted over 20mph.  Even had a few snow flurries that morning.

Mangum fire map progression 2020_06_15-18.That was June 8th, when the Mangum fire started on the Kaibab National Forest at Mangum camp where four historic buildings burned, cause is still being investigated.  High winds quickly pushed the fire northwest through Ponderosa Pine forest and by the 12th covered 12,000 acres and people at Jacob Lake were evacuated.  That amounts to the Inn (where the awesome cookies come from), Forest Service visitor center and campgrounds, and a RV Park.  The North Rim shut down after only seven days open and employees were given an option to evacuate or shelter in place as they were safely south of the fire.  State Route 89A closed from Fredonia to Marble Canyon, Arizona.  We’ve been watching the smoke.  So far the historic Jacob Lake Inn has been spared but the fire jumped the road and as of the 16th covered 40,000 acres.  That’s when the Forever Resort concession employees were evacuated.  And still it burns with more high winds spreading through Juniper/Pinyon woodlands and sagebrush with grasses.

Gaelyn & Colleen Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe fire didn’t slow down visitation here much averaging 1500 vehicles a day between the 8th to the 14th.  Long-time blog friend and RVer Colleen visited with her grown son, wife, and two children.  We met near the park’s General Store and sat chatting like old friends—though we’d never met—for several hours while waiting for her family to return from hiking among the hoodoos.  Then a fellow Ranger from Grand Canyon who currently works on the South Rim visited for several days and stayed overnight in my truckcamper “guesthouse”.

Somewhere in there I fit in an all day shopping trip to Cedar City with a friend and now won’t have to return for about a month.  We scored because the new Natural Grocers had opened that day making us both very happy and with many sales we bought lots.  Hit many other stores as well, us and some others wearing masks.

hoodoos trees valley Table Cliffs smoke Rim trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahOther than covering the door-count and information area I table-roved for a couple hours near Sunset Point overlooking the hoodoo filled Bryce amphitheater and walked along the rim trail answering visitor questions.

North view trees hoodoos Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNorth view

East view hoodoos valley trees Table Cliffs Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahEast view

West view from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWest view

Another day I roved at Rainbow and Yovimpa Points at the southern end of the Paunsaugunt Plateau providing long views circling at least 220°.  I talked a little about the Grand Staircase geology within view.

valley White Cliffs Molly's Nipple smoke from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

smoke Mangum fire on North Kaibab Arizona from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

map distance Yovimpa to Jacob Lake But I talked more about fire ecology because the southern view included the smoke from the Mangum fire located about 80 miles away as the Raven flies.

Lodge Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLodge

Sunset Motel Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSunset Motel

Every day something new and many expanding services opening at Bryce Canyon National Park.  On June 15th, lodging through Forever Resorts opened at the Sunset Motel and Deluxe cabins with take-out dining.  The Lodge Gift Shop and Valhalla Pizzeria will remain closed at this time.

Ranger Gaelyn posing VC Bryce Canyon National Park Utah by HaleyThe Natural History Association store and outside the visitor center Ranger information will be open from 8am to 8pm beginning June 21.  Backcountry will open for permits July 1st.

East view from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAlthough the 2020 Geology Festival has been cancelled we hope to provide modified geology talks within the park in late June.  The later will depend on limiting group sizes that are committed to physical distancing.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs smoke Bryce Canyon National Park UtahGetting closer to the park being in full operation yet I believe that won’t happen until Utah is in the green, and right now numbers of COVID19 cases are going up in Utah and Arizona.  So the park will continue expanding services as time goes on, or at least we hope so in a safe manner.

lone pine hoodoos rim trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLife can be a struggle but once roots are set growth occurs.

I am excited about getting out to present programs and just a little nervous too.  I am REALLY frustrated with my signal problem from home.  I can get a signal almost anywhere in the park on top of the plateau except where I live.  Even with the booster, my phone tethered to the computer shows 4Glte with three bars and it doesn’t work worth shit.  I am ready to SCREAM!  If you don’t hear from me for a while you’ll know why.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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