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Tag: Park Ranger

11 August 2021

Work, company, and exploring the Grand Staircase

desert varnish sandstone walls Burr Trail Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahMore rain followed by increased temperatures and sunshine with a variety of smoke diminished views over the Grand Staircase geology and national monument.

July ended still supporting monsoon storms at Bryce Canyon.  Rained hard on my day off spent at home including hail, lightning, and thunder.  Sierra stays close by when it’s booming.  Wonder if the storm spooked the horse that galloped past followed by a cowboy-wrangler on horseback that herded it back to the corral below where I live.  Puddles in the road grew larger.

Golden Eagle rain from RV window Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMotion caught my eye and a Golden Eagle stood soaked in a puddle.  It was there for measurable minutes while I took terrible photos through a rain streaked window.  Only the second time I’ve positively identified a Golden at Bryce.  Lightning crashed less than a mile away and the RV shook.  Made me glad to be grounded with rubber tires.  The storm cell hung overhead for quite a while.

Back to work Sunday with a 10am start, no programs, and way too many hours at the visitor center.  By CDC rules we are back to requiring masks worn inside the building, staff and visitors, and limited entry to 80 people.  A most boring job, other than people watching, sitting at the door with a counter app on the ipad.  Gets especially difficult with lightning filled storms intermittently causing Rangers to move in and out of the building.

Sierra cat looking for Meowie Jane in RV Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Meowie Jane catnip replacementRanger R, a botanist who has a love of galls, gave me a Japanese gall called Meowie Jane, Actinidia polygama, Silvervine, a catnip replacement and asked for a quote how Sierra reacted to it.  I don’t feed her catnip very often and she mostly ignores toys filled with it.  However, when I held the gall towards her she quickly responded with a sniff.  When I put it on the floor she rubbed all over it then started batting it around like a soccer ball.  Scored three goals under furniture and as goalie I dutifully retrieved them.  Hope we don’t get in trouble and wonder if Meowie Jane is legal in Utah, or the USA. 😉

Ranger Gaelyn recommended and endorsed book Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next morning started at the information desk for an hour then off to present the 11am hoodoo geology talk.  Because I had to cover an hour as door counter at 2pm I roved after the presentation and before lunch, which is basically hanging out at Sunset Point and answering questions.  Day ended with two hours back at the information desk.  Way too much time at the desk, IMHO.

White & Pink members Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahHowever, I looked forward to the next two days going to Rainbow Point and my happy place with the huge view from Yovimpa Point.  Also meant getting up early to open the visitor center and staff the door for two hours.  Morning coffee at 5:30am requires a heater by my side and a warm lap cat.  Temperatures range from low 50s to low 80s throughout the day at 8000-9100 feet in elevation.

smoky view SE Pink Cliffs & beyond Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahYovimpa rises just over 9100 feet at the southern tip of the Paunsaugunt Plateau.  The 100 mile view makes me feel on a mountain summit but I let a vehicle do the climb.  Sadly a smoky haze from hard to say where diminished the view to about half.  Yet could still see the typical four out of five cliff steps of the geologic Grand Staircase, the story I share of what can be seen.

hoodoos Pink Cliffs view South Black Birch overlook Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

trees White & Pink Members Black Birch overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahOn the return drive I stopped at a couple overlooks.  Not sure I’d ever had space to park at Black Birch overlook.  Every place offers a different view.

Peregrine Falcon bird Natural Bridge overlook Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Peregrine Falcon bird Natural Bridge overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAt Natural Bridge, where many stop yet don’t stay long, I saw a Peregrine Falcon and took some lousy yet identifiable photos.

Ranger Gaelyn Yovimpa Pointt Bryce Canyon National Park Utah by TimSame schedule on Wednesday—my Friday—and between home and work my NPS keys disappeared off my pant loop.  I retraced my steps several times and looked between the seats.  Maybe my eyes just aren’t too open at that early hour.  After opening and two hours of door counting I took off to Yovimpa with hotdog lunch on the way. Was very quiet out there, and once again smoky with diminished view.  Ranger T came out for a while on project time.

empty view truckcamper Natural Bridge overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahStopped at Natural Bridge and had the entire place to myself, briefly.

Torch hoodoo Natural Bridge overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSo I enjoyed the view of what I call the torch hoodoo.  I was able to leave a little early knowing with Lynda’s short visit she’d probably beat me home.  That’s what happened and was of course just fine especially as she brought home-made lasagna for dinner.  I searched again for the missing keys and found them almost gone between the truck seats.

NE to SE view from Head of the Rocks SR12 Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahMy first day off I don’t like to be rushed yet we did leave the park before noon.  With Lynda as my driver and guide we explored east on SR12 past where I’d been before.  Such a treat being behind the camera instead of the wheel.  OK, so I do shoot while driving but not with the big camera.  Distant views were obscured by the smoky haze that settled on the horizon.  Temperatures rose into the 90s so our stops where short yet sweet.

  Calf Creek sandstone cliffs SR12 Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahCalf Creek Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

Wow, was my word of the day as we traveled across this sandstone landscape of benches and canyons where sometimes flowing water created brilliant green strips through the mostly soft white and warm pillows of rock.

  Deer Creek trees cliffs Burr Trail Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahDeer Creek Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

trees Escalante River cliffs Burr Trail Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahEscalante River Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

At Boulder we turned onto the Burr Trail and continued through the dramatic and contrasting landscape of the Grand Staircase National Monument.

Lynda & Bailey Monks Alcove Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument Utah

trees cliffs Monks Alcove Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument Utah

Monks Alcove Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahOne place cool enough to walk with Bailey, a small slot canyon.  Waited only briefly for a mom and lots of noisy kids to leave and allow their echo to disappear as we soaked up the rock cooled and shaded air.

Hell's Backbone Grill & Farm Boulder UtahOur return route was via the famous Hell’s Backbone Grill and Farm in Boulder.  More Wow!

Orchard Zinger Hell's Backbone Grill & Farm Boulder UtahWe both started out with an Orchard Zinger cocktail that went down sweet with a zing.  Dinner was served on the patio, with Bailey in his bed just over the low rail.

Jenchilladas Hell's Backbone Grill & Farm Boulder UtahLemony Cluck Backbone Bar & Grill Boulder Utah

Lynda ordered her favorite Jenchilladas and I the Lemony Cluck.  Hard to describe how delicious.

Apricot Smash recipe from Hell's Backbone Grill and Farm Boulder UtahTheir apricot harvest is almost over so I bought a bottle of Apricot Smash.  I will most certainly return to this area in the fall when cooler and eat here again.

hoodoos valley smoke Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSecond day off was boring catchup and chores then back to work Saturday starting with two hours as the door counter again followed by the 11am hoodoo talk.  I realized it was smoky when I left the building but was still taken back by the diminished view and hazy amphitheater full off hoodoos.  The Aquarius Plateau only 14 miles east was totally obscured along with the valley below.

Great Basin Rattlesnake Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter the talk I once again roved in the area and good thing as a couple came to tell me the lady had sat on a tree root up the trail and a rattlesnake struck her boot.  Somehow I didn’t hear her scream but she was fine.  I called it in and they lead us to the tree.  Sure enough, a Great Basin Rattlesnake still hanging around.  Ranger R got the snake catching kit and quickly caught, bucketed, and relocated it.

Sunday was my late day and began at noon, yes once again as the door counter.  At our current visitation it’s not hard to maintain 80 people in the building with some being reminded to mask up, and we have masks to give away.  But when two tour buses traveling together arrived a little chaos ensued.  Especially when one of their guides asked public to leave the building so the group could all get in at once and overflow the theater with a current 25 seat capacity.  Once the dust settled and they were all outside again I asked to speak to the person in charge and told her they needed to plan better while traveling during a pandemic and suggested they break the group up, especially if going into federal buildings.  She apologized and told me they’d called ahead, sorry no record of that or we would have more people to deal with this.  I can only hope the same didn’t occur at their next stop.  After dinner I covered the information desk a couple hours then helped closed the visitor center.  When I arrived at 8:25pm to set up for my 9pm slide presentation about Wildlife there were already people sitting in the outdoor amphitheater.  Had a crowd of about 50 including two obnoxious, not precocious, kids that I nipped in the bud after three interrupting comments about volcanoes.  I have to keep on time, and subject.

light on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I started 10am at the information desk and two hours later was informed our tap water is possibly contaminated, all public water access is closed, we are on a “boil tap water” order.  Turns out one of three wells tested positive for E coli before it hit the chlorination process.  That well was closed and the water being retested.  I presented the 2pm hoodoo talk and roved until 5:30 when I called it a day.

Peregrine Falcon Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTuesday was my Friday and back out to Yovimpa Point after two hours of door counting.  Most of the smoky haze was gone but clouds danced overhead with an increasing chance of rain through the afternoon.  I hung out from 11:30-3 talking to many visitors about the Grand Staircase geology and national monument seen below this awe inspiring view.  Then it started to sprinkle and as I was walking away I saw a Peregrine Falcon and snapped a few lousy shots.

clouds Natural Bridge Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe rain didn’t last long so I stopped at Natural Bridge to rove about an hour watching the clouds continue to build.

Cottonwood tree Monks Alcove Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahEnd of work week with ten days off.  How did I manage that?  Well the first is a paid project day I took off for mental health.  Then it’s my three day weekend.  I have the first four days of next week off to drive to St George and get help taking the camper off the truck for future repairs when the temperatures drop there.  Then I’m back to two normal days off.  I could get used to this.

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Bryce Canyon National Park, Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, Places I've been, United States, Utah monsoon, Park Ranger, smoke 20 Comments
13 July 2021

Mid July marks half the summer season at Bryce Canyon

Though it feels like summer has barely begun, especially at 8000 feet, mid July marks half the summer season at Bryce Canyon.  Does it seem like I’m counting the days?  Maybe so.  I’m ready for a vacation.

cliffs clouds SR20 East UtahSR20 east Utah

Not like I don’t get days off, but they seem mundanely filled with chores like a long drive for shopping, and laundry at least a little closer to home.  Last week on a day off I avoided the dignitary visit of the second gentleman, Doug Emhoff.  Fellow park staff reported all went smoothly as he and the entourage were taken to the small out of the way Paria View overlook easily blocked to the public.  He is presumably visiting many national parks and meeting with staff.  Instead, I ended up in the holiday weekend busy town of Cedar City.  What was I thinking?

last light Aquarius Plateau sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI returned to work on Independence Day wondering if we’d be extra busy or not.  Remote national parks are often less busy on 4th of July because of the fireworks’ restrictions.  Didn’t feel any busier than any other day of the week.  Not even much of a noticeable difference between weekends and weekdays this busy summer.  I started at noon and due to nearby lightning worked information inside the visitor center.  Later, after closing the visitor center at 8pm scattered clouds made roving near Sunset Point for sunset a nice way to end the day.  I did hear a few boomers from my home under the Pines that night but am too far from Bryce Canyon City for their show.

After the next day’s 11am Hoodoo geology talk I engaged with a small group of visitors in conversation that went from geology, to cultural history, to archeology and anthropology, and genetics.  I love when this happens.  An approaching storm sent us different directions, me for lunch in the camper.  And that’s where I weathered the storm that came with a vengeance of wind and hard rain.  But not for more than 30 minutes.  I might have taken a nap.

trees sunrise clouds from RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSunrise view from RV door

The next day started hard and felt long.  I’m loosing another friend to cancer.  I’ve known Eddie since high school over 50 years.  Not long ago he was diagnosed Stage 4 and resigned himself to the last journey.  Yet he recently came around and decided not to lie in bed and wait for the end.  Instead he’s getting his RV home ready to roll and travel with family chauffeurs.  He called that morning to share the latest news.  Good news.  And I hope to cross his trail somewhere along the way.  The work day started with opening the visitor center and covering the information desk for an hour.  Then I did a practice run of a revised program from my Oregon Caves days called “I Dig Rocks” to learn how easy it is to identify rocks.  I was thinking of doing this program Saturday during the weekend’s GeologyFest, an annual event that happens at about half the summer season.  But at ten minutes the program is too long for today’s short attention span.  Glad I tried it out first.  After lunch I returned to the information desk for several hours and went home tired and thankful the next day was my Friday, even if it was an early start.

Pink Cliffs valley trees Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter opening and working two hours at the information desk it was time to drive to Yovimpa Point, the southern end of Bryce’s Paunsaugunt Plateau, my happy place.  Away from the hubbub and non-stop busy around the visitor center.  Grand Staircase geology talks are scheduled for 12:30 and 1:30, and sometimes they actually happen at those times.  I do short 10-15 minute versions whenever visitors show interest and lost count that day of how many times.  I talked as much if not more about fire ecology as visitors want to know about the fire evidence they see along the drive and Bristlecone Loop trail.  Two different stories.  A little boy maybe nine-years old asked why we fight fire with fire and not water.  I try to explain how a backburn works in this dry environment when water is readily handy and he quickly figures it out.  Seeing the lightbulb go off over his head is what makes my job so great.  A young (25) man hangs out conversing for over an hour in between my answering visitor questions.  In fact I get back late because we are engaged in good conversation for almost an hour in the parking lot.

Sierra cat RV bed Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAnd then two days off.  Felt good not to have to go anywhere and feel a little lazy.  Finished a post, labeled a whole lot of photos, did a minimal amount of housework, and cleaned the camper fridge.  The last, because I’m planning a road trip for my next days off.  It’s about time after half the summer season.  And so after four days work it’s four days off and I’m going to #PlanLikeAParkRanger, because I am, and head to…

Linking to Our World Tuesday

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Bryce Canyon National Park, Places I've been, Seasonal Park Ranger, United States, Utah Park Ranger, seasonal Park Ranger 21 Comments
29 June 2021

Working the now at Bryce Canyon and thinking of the future

light & shadows hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI’m trying to focus on both working the now at Bryce Canyon while thinking of the future at the end of the summer season.  Like repairing the camper and where to park the 5th-wheel.  How I wish for a handyman and private land instead of a RV Park.

Escobars Mexican Restaurant Kanab UtahSo after last week’s high temperatures and sunburned lips I had three days off to heal and do a little shopping in Kanab with lunch at my favorite Escobars.  High reached 103° and I didn’t stay long.  I hightailed it back up onto the 8000 foot Paunsaugunt Plateau to our livable high 80s.  Where I winter near Quartzsite was 128°.  And that’s why I don’t summer there.

Chatting to an old friend from high school in Illinois who has moved back to her original hometown in Michigan to a small house with a huge yard in a forest near a lake.  She says there’s plenty of space to park my RV.  Sounds nice except for winter cold and snow, plus summer humidity and mosquitoes.  Still I put her on my list of people to visit if/when I travel east.  Let me know if you’d like to be added to that list.

window view crepuscular rays clouds Bryce Canyon City UtahSaturday saw a little rain, very little actually, with dark skies that mostly teased moisture yet dropped dry lightning that started many fires in Utah and Arizona.  Discovered one more “needs to be fixed” on the 5th-wheel when I emptied the blackwater tank.  The valve opened, but the cable must be either loose or disconnected because now the valve won’t close.  Damn system is hidden behind walls and an underbelly skin.  Not something I’m going to be able to fix myself.  Thank goodness it’s opened and not closed and full.  Must run more water through the system to wash everything out of the tank and down the sewer hose.  May be TMI.  Same problem with the kitchen graywater valve except it’s stuck mostly closed so I don’t run water down the kitchen sink too much right now.  Joined some friends in town that night for dinner.

rock trees Pink Cliffs Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBack to work with a late schedule on Sunday.  Ranger T presented the evening program about the “Allure of Outlaws” in southern Utah which includes a lot of Butch Cassidy legend and lore.  Visitors love it.  After she set up the PowerPoint I walked to the rim and spent about 45 minutes slowly roving not too far away enjoying the last evening light.  Makes working a late shift worth while.

hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWorked the information desk the next morning for an hour then out to the rim for the 11am Hoodoo geology talk with my supervisor attending to observe and coach.  She loved it.  Then after lunch I roved the rim for several hours before returning to the desk to close my day.

view West from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter opening the visitor center in the morning I spent the day at my happy place, Yovimpa Point.  In fact because my watch battery died I spent a couple more hours than scheduled.  The view was smoky, but I’ve seen, or not seen, worse.  So glad there’s no fire now at Bryce Canyon.  Talked to over 200 wonderful people out there about geology and fire ecology.  It’s not that fire is always bad for the land.  In fact many places in the west need fire badly due to over 100 years of fire suppression.  But it’s scary stuff when close to residences and primary transportation routes plus the health issues breathing smoke.

The next day I was also scheduled for Yovimpa and because it was my Friday—on Wednesday—I thought about staying after work for the moon rise.  However, after opening the visitor center under cloudy skies with predictions of thunderstorms I instead decided not to drive out the 18 miles and mostly sit in my rig.  Instead, I went home for the day.  I am trying to use some of the hundreds of hours of sick leave I have accrued over my 29 summers of federal service and walk away from once I don’t work any more.  Seasonals don’t retire with benefits.  That made for a 2 1/2 day weekend when I probably should have driven the 1 1/2 hours to Cedar City to buy a watch battery, but instead I took a nap.  Woke up to news that both the Coconino and Kaibab National Forests in Arizona were going to close to recreational uses in the hopes of stopping human caused forest fires.  The Coconino had already reported over 20 illegal campfires during fire restrictions.  What is wrong with people?  It’s so hot, and dry, there is no reason for a campfire.  Thank goodness, as worrying about lightning strikes starting fires is bad enough.  Some areas have seen a little rain, but not much and it’s more dry lightning instead.  Come on monsoon rains bring moisture to the thirsty Southwest.

trees hoodoos valley sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

trees hoodoos sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWith a little more rain Thursday, and a lot of clouds, I didn’t hold much hope to see the rise of the full strawberry moon.

trees Pink Cliffs valley stormy sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

trees hoodoos sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBut it did seem worth dragging my lazy ass out to the rim for a potentially colorful sunset.  That didn’t disappoint at all.

valley Aquarius Plateau sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

full strawberry moon trees Bryce Canyon National Park UtahYet I didn’t figure to see the moon rise, or at all with cloud cover.  Glad I waited around and got a brief glimpse even if the photo isn’t great hand held after dark.

On days off I give more thought to what and where next after the now at Bryce Canyon.  That’s only about three months away.  I’ve contacted a couple RV parks located between Prescott and Yarnell, my old stomping grounds, and the prices have doubled in the last four years.  How I long to park the 5th-wheel on private land without neighbors as close as 20-40 feet away.  Rent would be cheaper over a six month agreement in Quartzsite near where I usually spend a lot of time in the winter, but that means moving again for next summer.  I know, having a house on wheels should be easy to move yet not when owning two RVs that I can’t move together.  My head’s in a spin trying to figure this out and make a decision.

trees hoodoos valley sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThank you for all the wonderful comments, support, suggestions, and empathy over my recent posts as I still work through what’s next in life after the now at Bryce Canyon and on to retirement.  I continue to be open to suggestions.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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