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40 hours a week cuts into life

May 14-23, 2017

Every year after a six month vacation I return to my seasonal job as a Park Ranger and have forgotten how much time 40 hours a week cuts into life.  I’ve been busy and rather negletful of keeping up with the blog, or taking photos.  Should be back into the swing soon now that the North Rim is open and I have a daily schedule to keep.  So here’s a little catchup.

Everyone worked Sunday to get the last minute things ready for opening the North Rim Monday, May 15th.  It was touch and go this spring to meet that long upheld date due to priority repairs on 300 feet of broken waterpipe.  Hats off to those folks for finishing two weeks earlier than projected.

entrance station opening day North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI had opening day off so missed that first big rush.  I was partly disappointed but also relieved.  On the drive out of the park Monday morning the line at the entrance station didn’t look terribly long for an opening day.  Yet I heard there was a 45 minute wait at the entrance station at one point.

snow forest Bison curve SR67 North North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

meadows forest SR67 North Kaibab National Forest ArizonaEven though it’s a long 1 1/2 hour drive to Kanab I love to see the changes over time, seasons, and life zones.  Ponderosa Pine and Aspen forest border meadows so perfect visitors often ask who mows them.  During some Springs, out of the last nine I’ve seen, the meadows have been buried in white and now only a few patches remain in the forest’s shade.

Clouds bird Warm fire burn SR67 South Kaibab National Forest ArizonaTen miles of the drive along SR67 winds through an obvious burn from the 2006 Warm Fire where a new forest returns to life.  Young aspen cluster together under the remains of burned, weathered, and broken trunks, less seen every year as they topple to create a new generation of soil.  I look for condors here in this open area where they could see to the ground for a possible meal.  Some of the twisted and contorted tops of these snags fool me into seeing a bird perched.  Plus there’s the view across the Marble Platform edged by the Vermilion Cliffs to the north and Echo Cliffs to the east.  On a clear day, Navajo Mountain towers high at 100 miles away.  But no time to stop this day.

Vermilion cliffs SR89 North Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAfter 45 minutes to Jacob Lake the pine forest thickens before descending off the Kaibab Plateau through junipers and pinyon pines as the elevation drops 3000 feet.  Sage Flats stretches about 10 miles looking like it dead ends at the walls of the Vermilion Cliffs where Kanab lies nestled at the cliff’s feet.

Escobars Mexican restaurant Kanab UtahI left my sickly PC in the competent hands of the “Old Geezer”, Jack, and hoped he could bring it back to life or at least save the data and photos I was behind backing up to external drives.  Then went to lunch at my favorite Mexican restaurant, Escobars, where Marie always remembers what I’ve ordered before.  Chili Rellenos with rice and beans for lunch and an extra chili to go.  Picked up a few groceries and headed back home for a reverse of the amazing drive to town.

 

 

 

Transept canyon Walhalla plateau Oza butte South Rim from North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaLaundry day on Tuesday.  The building that houses washers, dryers, and showers was a pigpen.  Really wondered if my clothes would be cleaner afterwards.  Plus one dryer was wonky so took three hours to do three loads.  Laundry is one of those chores that is way far down my list.  But at least I could walk to the rim and enjoy a peak into Transept Canyon.

Bernie new camera in RV North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWednesday afternoon my friend Bernie topped out of the canyon and we spent the afternoon talking away.  He is on a through hike from Mexico to Canada joining several long trails with some bush-waking along the way.  Not his first long haul.  Girlfriend Stacey and he have spent many summers hiking long trails like the Pacific Crest, Appalachian, Georgia, Florida, and Arizona trails.  Care packages arrived on time with food, a new backpack, and a surprise new camera to replace the one that died along the way.

 

 

1 polished boot North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThursday was my Monday, and felt like my opening day.  Opened the visitor center and gave the 10am geology talk.  I actually remembered it.  My first day in uniform, thank goodness my 15 year old Italian Vasques still take a shine.  (One polished and one not.)  The National Park Service requires a polishable leather boot or shoe.  Women’s boots like that are not easy to find.  I’m going to order Italian made Scarpa boots online and hope they fit.  The old Vasques have been resoled twice yet show their years of wear.

Geology talk again Friday.  Bernie hit the Arizona trail on his journey north.  Visitors stopped some people from carving their names in the rocks along the Bright Angel Point trail.  Unfortunately they didn’t get a photo and the culprits weren’t caught.  Law Enforcement went looking and said the damage wasn’t deep so could be rubbed out.  More visitors stopped a man from flying a drone on the same trail.  Thanks to the people visiting national parks for helping us out.  We can’t be everywhere at once.

mouse in RV North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI have mice in the RV.  Came home for lunch and this furry varmint was huddled in the middle of the living room rug and not in a hurry to move even as I came closer.  Not a good sign.  I actually caught it wearing gloves with a towel and threw it outside.  I have since caught three more in the awful deadly traps.  Don’t like to do that but they should stay outside.

 

Campfire program sign North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona          Evening program sign North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Saturday morning I again opened the visitor center and had the rest of the afternoon to work in the office.  I wasted a lot of time with lousy computers and old software trying to make signs for my evening and campfire programs.  Not quite there yet as they are difficult to read.  Plus chipmunk babies were removed from our prop cupboard along with many other things like the felt condor to show size and markings plus the images shared for our condor talk.  So I had to find, print and laminate more photos.

Then Sunday I presented my first condor talk of the season, 4:30pm at the campground amphitheater, for seven visitors.  Among them, an awesome family of four living full time in a RV, home schooling, and working on the road.  The really cool two children finished their Junior Ranger books and I swore them in and gave them badges.  Starting with the dad, they all gave me hugs before continuing their journey.  This kind of interaction is the best part of my job.

Ranger Gaelyn canyon Transept trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMonday’s my Friday.  I opened the visitor center and worked it two hours with a steady flow of visitors mostly asking, “I just got here, what do I do?”  After orientation on the park map I send them on their, hopefully, happy way.  Many rim to rim hikers checked in to make sure potable water was on along the trail.  Problem with that is that a rock can fall at any time and take out water pipe so it’s good to carry purification or filtration options.  After a few more hours in the office I roved for a couple hours along the rim, my happy place.

Back to Kanab on Tuesday to retrieve my healthy PC.  It needed a bit of cleaning up both inside and out.  Then joined Bill for lunch at the new (opened in September) Peekaboo Canyon Wood Fired Kitchen which was delicious but touristy expense.  Outdoor seating is dog friendly.  Then a few more groceries for myself and others and back home along that beautiful drive once again.

I’ve taken hardly any photos of the canyon.  Or barely any at all.  While working I’m usually at the rim during the middle of the day when the light is worst for making photos.  After work, I’m tired so haven’t even seen sunset over the canyon yet.  Been feeling in a slump photo wise.  My small Nikon Coolpix is acting up and of course out of warranty.  Many of these photos were taken with a Sony PowerShot Bernie left behind and my phone.  Plus I realize the tripod needs to be used with my big Nikon for quality shots and it’s heavy and I’m lazy.  I’m going to work on that.

Don’t get me wrong, I do love my job, for six months of the year, but 40 hours a week sure does cut into life and free to choose where to travel.

Think I’m caught up now.

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Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, life, Park Ranger , , 32 Comments

Crazy Monday at the North Rim

June 9, 2016

Nothing like returning to work after a weekend to a busy, crazy Monday.

Temples from Bright Angel Point trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

OK, so my Monday is on Thursday, starting the work day at 12:30p with two and a half hours in the Visitor Center, which means no time to check work email.  Can be very important government stuff built up over two or three days off.  Although it turned out not to be much of importance when I checked it at 6pm.

 

Bumped car North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThe parking lot was expectedly busy and mostly full, cars and people.  Yet I found a spot big enough to back in the behemoth truck/camper and in the process bumped a little plastic car with the camper jack.  SHIT!  With an audience of visitors.  SHIT!  I haven’t bumped any of my trucks into anything for decades.  So once I get parked I leave a business card with all my contact info and a note to call.  I have insurance.

Blooming New Mexico Locust from Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

First thing in the Visitor Center door I hear sirens speeding up to the Lodge.  Don’t know for sure what happened as I got so busy with visitors answering questions, giving directions, and swearing in Junior Rangers, the shift was suddenly over.

New Mexican Locust – the luscious Legume flowers taste like peas while the thorny branches keep you away

 

 

Time to eat before giving a 4:30p Condor talk on the Lodge veranda.  Which went very well with about 80 people in attendance, including eight Junior Rangers.   It’s a requirement to attend a Ranger program, write something learned, and have the Ranger sign your book along with four age-appropriate pages of activities.  The whole book for adults.

 

Artist in residence Robert Langham Lodge veranda North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThe current Artist-in-Residence, photographer Robert Langham, set up for a talk on improving your photography in 20 minutes.  He uses B&W film for large format photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Smoke from prescribed burn on South Rim Shoshone Point North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Smoke could be seen from a prescribed burn at Shoshone Point on the South Rim causing a hazy view of the canyon.

Sunset from Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

After roving (answering more questions) I went to the office, checked those emails, and got in a little snack before returning to the Lodge.  Even took a couple sunset shots before setting up the computer and projector.

 

Star Party sign North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaIt’s Star Party week, June 4-11.  Been meaning to write about that.  Anyway, instead of giving my usual 8:30 evening program I introduced a guest astronomer.  Really liked his presentation, “Time travel in astronomy” where he showed how far away major large stars are in light years compared with events in history.

 

Telescopes Lodge veranda North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

By the time the presentation was over, the Lodge veranda where eight telescopes were set up, was already getting busy.  The sky had mostly cleared from some late afternoon clouds.

I had just put the AV equipment away when a lodge employee told me an Asian visitor had driven off the road about five miles out on the scenic drive, was OK, and had called for a tow truck.  So I spoke to him, what little I could, and called dispatch to let Law Enforcement know.  He had about a two hour wait for the tow so I urged him to check his luggage and enjoy the stars.

Sunset with moon North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Only went out on the veranda briefly, but long enough for my eyes to adjust to the dark while standing on the edge of the crowd who patiently waited in line to view some marvels in the sky.  Soon I could see a speckled field with planets bright.  Can you tell I don’t know much about astronomy?  Talked to a few visitors.  Then slipped off into the dark for home by 10p.  A gorgeous end to a crazy Monday at the North Rim.

 

Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, life , 26 Comments

Up and down at the North Rim

Canyon view from Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Feeling settled in even with ups and downs at the North Rim, and I don’t mean hiking in and out of Grand Canyon, although there is a plethora of folks doing just that.  With a lousy internet signal for over a month I really missed the interactions with online friends: chatting, emails, Facebook, reading about what you are doing,  and of course easily posting on my blog.  Yes I’m whining and the rant’s coming.  The cell phone bars went up to two and down to nothing.

 

Cavalier Coaches tour bus North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThe season started out with a canyon full of visitors followed by a slight lull even with three tour buses at a time (mostly filled with seniors/boomers visiting for an afternoon or evening while staying in a cabin then off in the early morning).  Not my idea of travel but guess it works for some folks.  Spring and Fall is the best time to hike rim-to-rim across Grand Canyon when the temperatures are coolest at the bottom.  Chilly with snow on top, balmy and beautiful at the bottom, a difference of about 6,000 feet (1829 m).  Most through hikers whether camping along the way (the smart way) or going for the entire 23 miles (37 km) in one shot–plus the mile down and up–do plan ahead at least a little.  They still might not entirely know what they’re getting themselves into (pun intended) yet will learn along the way.

 

Mule riders on Coconino overlook North Kaibab trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaDay hikers in the canyon typically don’t go more than .07 – 5 miles (.11-8 km), that’s one way with elevation changes between 800 – 3200 feet (244-975 m).  Rangers always remind hikers to time themselves down to their chosen stopping place and allow double time back up, on average; take plenty of water and snacks; communicate and stop if anybody is sore or tired.  Even the shortest hike off the rim and into the canyon is about the experience.  Down is optional and up is mandatory.  People are generally happy and excited about seeing Grand Canyon and who can blame them.  I never tire of my office view.

I am ecstatic about living and working on the North Rim for six months, BUT…

Sunset light on Angels Gate & over South Rim from Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

I rather lost interest in taking photos.  Believe me I haven’t lost interest in the Grand Canyon, but feel like I keep seeing, photographing, and sharing the same views.  The sun comes up, the sun goes down.

With difficulty finding a signal my interest in blogging also went up and down.  Carrying my phone with me everywhere I go but not really using it.  Should take more photos with it, but…

 

WeBoost Home North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaSo I finally bit the bullet and spent a ridiculous amount of money for a booster and now my signal is finally up.  So here’s the story of missing time on the blog.

May 25, 2016

I get REALLY frustrated when things don’t work.  Loose my cool completely, and when stress levels rise high my brain kind of turns off.  Every have that happen?  I do know this is very unhealthy and unproductive.  Sometimes I catch it in time and slow down or stop.  Sometimes I don’t.  Like Tuesday, when Bill delivered, and I excitedly opened, the new WeBoost.  I gathered all the parts, tools, and duct tape and climbed onto the roof to mount the new exterior antenna.  Which I’d already convinced myself wouldn’t work.  The strangest box antenna I’ve ever seen but the tech said it’s waterproof even though the flimsy excuse for directions suggested mounting it by suction cups to an inside window, 20 feet from the inside antenna.  Hmm, my RV home is only 36 feet long.  So I hoisted the TV antenna on the roof for the highest access at an appropriate distance and taped it on.  At first I tried the existing coaxial cable from said TV antenna which conveniently runs between roof and ceiling to a built in connection.  Didn’t work, but the booster kit came with about 50 feet of cable.  All this irrelevant when I learned how to check for signal strength with my Smarter-than-me-phone and discovered the weakest signal at –105 dBm 36 asu (whatever that means) where the roof antenna was mounted.  All conversations with the techs were spotty and dropped three times.  My neighbor has a similar set up with a more real looking antenna tied up in a tree about 30 feet (9 m) and is getting 4G.  More parts and a different antenna are coming, at no charge says the tech.  And I wait again.  Poor Bill calmly put up with my temper tantrum.  Thanks for the moral support honey.

We Rangers braced and readied for the holiday weekend, Memorial Day has always been the BBQ beginning of summer in the US.

Laptop on table & forest view North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

May 28, 2016

I led the morning 20 minute Geo Glimpse to the rim with about 30 people and identified the rock layers by the environments they were deposited by.  Then I roved the Bright Angel Point trail and hung out at the end of the .25 miles (.4 km) answering questions and enjoying the view.  I presented the afternoon Geology talk which included about a dozen children working on their Junior Ranger books.  Then home to no parts for the booster. Shit way to end a wonderful day, followed by Sunday and Memorial Day with no deliveries.  However, when home for lunch sitting at the table instead of my desk I got 4G so decided to set up the laptop there and blazed that night, even getting a post out and a few blogs read.  Yet because the phone signal itself was still weak I decided to move the small booster to the other side of the roof the next day after work.

Freya's Castle & Vishnu Temple from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

May 29, 2016

Sunday was my Friday and after helping at the busy Visitor Center for a few hours I packed lunch and drove out onto the Walhalla Plateau.  The drive didn’t seem crowded although the overlook parking lots were almost full.  Only 10 visitors at the 1pm Archaeology talk overlooking the Unkar Delta where Puebloans lived 1000s of years ago.  After lunch I roved at Cape Royal at the end of the scenic road and a .4 mile (.6 km) one way walk to see the biggest view of the canyon from the North Rim.  The most common question:  Where’s the South Rim?  Every thing seen on the lower horizon opposite the canyon is the south rim.  Yet I know they really want to know where the South Rim Village area is, the developed part with hotels, restaurants, and gift shops.  But that area is out of sight, to the west.

Freyas Castle & Colorado River from Cape Royal Walhalla Plateau North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Where’s the Colorado River?  Only a small section of the river is visible down about 5000 feet (1524 m) to the southeast.  It currently flows a deep blue-green yet will change to the muddy color of the rocks upstream once monsoon season begins.  A lot of folks are just friendly and want to talk about their park experiences here and other places.  They ask general questions about me and my life as a Park Ranger.  I’m mostly an open book but don’t share secrets.  Winking smile

May 30, 2016

I am glad to have Monday off work.  Holidays are a zoo.  And I don’t like to travel on holidays either.  Instead a nice lazy day with rather gray skies backing the dim forest.  Moving the antenna didn’t help the phone much or keeping a consistent connection but even with only 1x I got some things done online with some much overdue cleaning in between being dropped.  Then suddenly I’ve got 4G so I play catch up.  I’m getting a little better at this patience thing yet have both computers on and doing different things at each.

May 31, 2016

Bill came up with all the necessary parts to hook up to a very large propane tank so I can stop running to fill the 5th-wheel’s seven gallon tanks.  Took a little thinking to get it right but Bill crawled under the built in tanks on the RV and hooked the new hose provided by Amerigas to a pipe leading into the RV.  Yippee!  For the first time in eight seasons I’m finally getting the “free” propane which is actually part of my rent.

 

Booster in tree & RV North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAfter lunch we tackled the booster using the box antenna that came with the kit and almost 50 feet (15 m) of coaxial cable.  Bill brought an extension ladder and measured out from the RV so we’d know which trees to try for signal.  I climbed that ladder at three different trees with compass for the best southern shot and cell phone to check for best signal.  Then hoisted it up about 20 feet (6 m).  And it works!!!!!!  I am infinitely happy!!!!  I went up that ladder and didn’t fall down.  Then after dinner we went to the Lodge for Ranger Perri’s evening program on wilderness.

 

 

 

 

FR213 Kaibab National Forest Arizona

June 1, 2016

Line of cars at entrance station North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaChores done and everything working so Bill and I went for a drive on the Kaibab National Forest.  We took a new to us road FR213, the east side of SR67, and didn’t quite make it to Dog Point.  A gorgeous day!  The line to get into the park was long as we left.

 

 

 

Photograher & bison North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaOn the way back the Bison were out with idiot people out of their cars walking towards these wild beasts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WeBoost in pine tree North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAnd the booster is working like a dream, even without the other parts.

June 2-5, 2016

Back to work with full days scheduled and the crowds increasing.  Without tour buses around the parking lot is the busiest place on the North Rim causing visitors and employees to circle several times in hopes someone leaves so we can park.  Plus the temperatures have gone up to almost 90F on the rim and 111F down at the bottom of the canyon.  Rather unseasonably warm.  The combination of high elevation at 8200 feet (2500 m), 15% humidity, and heat is especially hard on flatlanders.  Even I barely drink enough water while reminding everyone to drink more water.

And if that’s not hot enough, for my next two days off I’m going down to Kanab at only 5000 feet (1524 m) and shopping in the 100F+ heat of St. George.  I wouldn’t do it but it’s been three weeks since a grocery run.  Then back up to the semi-coolness of the North Rim.  Hoping the signal ups and downs are over for the season.

Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, life , 30 Comments

Lijit

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