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Tag: Park Ranger

26 July 2023

No bad views of Grand Canyon

Wotons Throne & Cape Royal Desert View SR GRCA NP AZ

view S Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZMultiple views of Grand Canyon, Wotan’s Throne from South Rim and North Rim

When I was a Park Ranger visitors frequently asked which side is better, there’s no bad views of Grand Canyon, so visit both sides.  And that’s what I did.

trees canyon CO R clouds Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZ

light in canyon Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZOn this summer journey, I planned to enjoy views of Grand Canyon from both sides, starting with the South Rim.  So after my wonderful loop drive from Sunset Crater to Wupatki national monuments I continued north on SR89 to Cameron and entered the park from the east side, so much less crowded than the main Village area.

orange Globe Mallow flowers canyon CO R clouds Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZ

Desert View Tower Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZI stopped at Navajo Point and under cloudy skies enjoyed the views of Grand Canyon including a distant look at the Desert View Watch Tower.

truckcamper Kaibab NF AZThen I continued to my forest camp only one mile of rough and rutted dirt road to boondock for the night with a gentle rain.  Not overcrowded, this Kaibab National Forest location is along the way to the Grandview Fire Tower, where I camped last summer.

west view Moran Pt SR GRCA NP AZ

temple pk Moran Pt SR GRCA NP AZThe next day I met a Ranger friend at Moran Point and we spent the day catching up, reminiscing, and enjoying views of Grand Canyon.  I am always amazed that the average park visitor doesn’t spend more than two minutes at an overlook.

 late light Ponderosa Pine needles FR310 Kaibab NF AZ

Ponderosa Pine flower FR310 Kaibab NF AZ

pine pollen puddle reflection FR310 Kaibaba NF AZPine pollen on puddle

pine pollen on windshield S Kaibab NF AZPollen on truck

It rained intermittently over the next several days so I was glad to have a great signal and worked on the next video about Arivaca Creek and the Cruz Ranch and a blog post about my visit to Bisbee during early June.  Yes, I’m that far behind.  The rain helped clear the air of Pine pollen.

CO R Desert View SR GRCA NP AZ

Desert View Watchtower SR GRCA NP AZAfter five nights in this forest location it was time to hit the road for some new views of Grand Canyon.  First stop at Desert View Watch Tower, the furthest east overlook with some of my favorite South Rim views of Grand Canyon.

blue Larkspur flowers FR310 Kaibab NF AZMoth on orange Globe Mallow flower Desert View SR GRCA NP AZ

                           Larkspur                                                                                Globe Mallow

I parked in the oversized vehicle lot and walked due west to the rim following a social trail towards the tower with lots of flowers along the way.

Desert View Watchtower SR GRCA NP AZ

GRCA stickers & hat pinThe only reason I went inside the tower was to add another sticker and hat pin to my collections.

SR89 N AZ

Echo Cliffs Navajo Rez SR89 N AZOnce back to SR89 I headed north across the amazing Navajo Reservation desert landscape.

Echo & Vermilion Cliffs SR89A W AZ

menu Cliff Dwellers SR89A Hatch AZStopped for lunch at Cliff Dwellers then climbed up onto the Kaibab Plateau and much cooler temperatures at 7,000 feet.

cookies Jacob Lake Inn AZOf course I had to get desert at Jacob Lake Inn.

truckcamper Jacob Lake AZThen opted to camp nearby.

cows person Crane Lk snow Kaibab NF AZIn the morning I drove south across the Kaibab National Forest surprised at how full the lakes were in the meadows.  Guess I should have expected that because of the record breaking snow fall.

light on Aspen Kaibab NF AZStopped at the entrance station and said hello to a known Ranger then continued to the end of the road.

Grand Lodge verandah NR GRCA NP AZParking wasn’t a problem because the Lodge wasn’t open yet for food service or overnight accommodations.  All that snow followed by melt took out a huge section of both the water pipe and North Kaibab trail so they were under water restrictions.

view from lodge NR GRCA NP AZNo Rangers in the visitor center as it’s now all sales space for the history association.

Mt Hayden Pt Imperial NR GRCA NP AZ

Saddle Mt Marble Canyon Vermilion Cliffs clouds Pt Imperial NR GRCA NP AZEnough of that, I wanted more views of Grand Canyon.  So I drove the scenic road with the first stop at Point Imperial.  I actually had the overlook entirely to myself for a measurable amount of time.

Greenland Lake NR GRCA NP AZ


light on Aspen leaves NR GRCA NP AZ

Made another stop at Greenland Lake, the fullest I’ve ever seen, and I’ve seen it bone dry.  “Lakes” on the Kaibab are actually sinkholes in the limestone, not huge but good water sources for wildlife.

Wotons Throne Wedding Site NR GRCA NP AZ

yellow Desert Sunflower flowers in rock hole Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZThen on to the end of the road to Cape Royal for my favorite views of Grand Canyon.

sunset Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZ

sunset thru pines Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZ

sunset Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZ

Wotons Throne sunset clouds Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZEspecially sunset.

Deer Lake Kaibab NF AZDeer Lake

view E Marble Plateau Vermilion Cliffs Navajo Mt Kaibab NF AZView east Vermilion & Echo Cliffs with Navajo Mt beyond

I could have stayed for days stopping at every overlook for many hours enjoying a variety of views of Grand Canyon.  However, I had other places to go and people to see.  So I headed back north with just a couple stops along the way.  Including Jacob Lake Inn once again for a dozen cookies to take as treats for the friends I’d visit in Kanab, Utah.

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Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, North Rim, Places I've been, RV life, South Rim, United States national parks, Park Ranger, RV living, summer 2023 20 Comments
14 September 2021

Working September while making a winter plan

Half the month gone already working September at Bryce Canyon and time is flying along while getting last minute season things done and making a winter plan.

Mule Deer doe & two fawns Mixing Circle Road Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter ten days off I struggled a bit finishing up August’s work schedule.  That started with a Sunday working two two-hour shifts at the information desk, closing the visitor center, and ended with presenting the 9pm evening program.  My program is about the wildlife at Bryce Canyon and includes audio/sound effects of rodents, birds, and large mammals ending with Cougar and Black Bear.  I often jest about the nearby North Campground guests wondering what is wandering around.

hoodoos amphitheater clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I presented the 11am Hoodoo geology talk which morphed into geology 101 and staircase geology for an additional hour.  Then I roved another hour at Sunset Point before ending the day with a 2 1/2 hour shift at the information desk.

light on White Cliffs storm clouds from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTuesday, my Friday, after opening the visitor center I covered the information desk a couple hours.  A man came to the desk and told me about a rumored Cougar sighting in North Campground over the weekend.  I assured him this was a false report.  So, I present one more of those wildlife programs before the season ends, wonder if I should turn the volume up or down.  Made for a good chuckle as I drove in a light rain to my happy place for the afternoon at the end of the scenic road, Rainbow and Yovimpa Points.  The sky stayed dark all afternoon and I half expected to get chased out early but instead didn’t leave until 5:15.

rain Pink Cliffs SR12 East Utah

flowing Tropic Ditch Tropic UtahIt rained all night and into Wednesday afternoon when I drove to Tropic to drop off my truck for new rear shocks and front brake pads.  April followed me and brought me back the next morning.

mountains SR20 West Utah

smoky haze I15 South UtahSmoky haze hung over Cedar City

From Tropic I drove the almost two hours to Cedar City for groceries.  Didn’t want to put that off another day which would have been the crowded Friday beginning Labor Day weekend.  Sure glad it’s a pretty drive and I don’t do it weekly but makes for a long day.  Also treated myself to lunch at the Asian Bistro and dinner at Big Fish in Panguitch on the return home.

RV roof Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNice that I still had another day off and managed to climb on the RV roof to check for damage as there’s a water leak in the shower after the hard rains.  All the plastic vents are old, sun baked and need to be replaced.  Looks like some dead branches fell on the shower skylight and it’s cracked a little.  Hoping a quick fix of silicone will solve the problem until I can replace the covers.  So many things that need to be fixed. Good thing I worked this summer and saved some money.

trail crew Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTrail crew

hoodoos valley plateau clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI knew it would be crazy busy at work Saturday of Labor Day weekend and thank goodness the Wall Street side of Navajo Loop trail had been repaired enough to reopen.  The couple hours at the information desk flew by and I went to the rim to present the 2pm Hoodoo Geology talk.  Then I roved a couple hours and returned to the desk after lunch.  It threatened to rain all afternoon but only a few drops fell.

Southeast view Pink Cliffs trees from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Ranger Gaelyn Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park Utah by Mike FrederickSunday I opened the visitor center at 8am to a line of people who mostly wanted to use the bathroom.  Within the next hour a long line also formed to ask us Rangers the typical question, “I just got here what should I do?”  I sure wish people knew how to read a map or do a little pre-planning.  Thank goodness I was only there a couple hours that went by lightning fast.  Then off to Yovimpa Point for the afternoon, if I could find a place to park.  I parked out of the way yet illegally hoping to move but before I could finish eating lunch while sitting in the truck was hemmed in front and back.  Spent from noon to 4:30 at Yovimpa and the new supervisor Mike came out to watch and stayed for several hours. I lost track of how many times I did short talks about geology and fire ecology. I just pulled them in when folks came to the point.  One couple asked at the desk if I was going to Yovimpa because their son had visited last week and told them to see me specifically. That sure felt good. My ego loves those kinds of strokes. I’ll miss that. Had to ask two kids from separate families not to throw rocks over the fence and down on a possible trail while parents stood and said nothing. Them, I won’t miss. But out of at least 93 contacts today most were amazing.  I almost ran out of water and finally got back to the visitor center about 30 minutes after my day should have been over.

Horned lizard Bryce Canyon National Park Utah3” Horned lizard

Sure was glad Monday slowed down as people returned home to their lives after the last hurray holiday weekend in America.  I opened by myself with intentional slowness and answered a lot less questions than the morning before.  Then it was back out to Yovimpa Point again with a hotdog along the way at the Dawg House food wagon at Farview Overlook.  They hadn’t been there in a while due to family medical issues but plan to stay several days a week into early October.  That means I might get my punch card filled to earn a free hotdog.

smoke haze grand staircase bird Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNo problem parking at Rainbow Point.  Spent about three hours at Yovimpa with almost constant mini talks yet not quite so enthusiastic as the day before. Lips were sunburn and throat a little sore from so much talking.  By 3:30 I felt baked so went back to Farview for an ice cream cone, and it was free. Stood at the rim eating and answering questions. I always forget what a nice viewpoint that is.

hitch in truck Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter work a neighbor came over and loaded the 5th-wheel hitch back into the bed of the truck.  I am another step closer to getting ready to roll.

Raven hoodoos Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTuesday morning started off at a cool 46°F but by the time I got to the rim for the 11am Hoodoo geology talk it had warmed up significantly and even though the high was only 84°F it felt scorching.  Had a large crowd at the talk then only hung out afterwards for 1 1/2 hours roving at Sunset Point and racked up over 100 contacts. After lunch, finished the day with several hours getting sun-baked at the desk.

sewer gateMy first of four days off became taking care of business while staying home.  That includes ordering a few things to be delivered at Bryce before I’m gone.  Figured to put the new sewer gate on but it’s huge and will hang down rather close to the ground so I’m concerned about driving with it on. Did order just a cap with water hose attachment.  But if I use water or toilet while on the road I’ll have sewage in the tanks.  Kitchen gray-water tank doesn’t open all the way and bathroom gray and black waters won’t close.  I don’t want to take a shit bath putting the hose on at my next place.

Ferguson Valley ranch aerial viewMy space is just off the aerial photo on right center

Winter plan coming together after several changes of ideas.  I truly thought I’d make the 25th my last day working September, two weeks before my official NPS EOD (National Park Service end of duty).  However, then I’d have to resign and not be eligible for unemployment.  So the current plan is moving the 5th-wheel from September 23-24 (one night in Cameron, Arizona) on days off work to it’s new home-base on a 300 acre ranch in Skull Valley located between Prescott and Yarnell, Arizona.  I’ll have almost a week of combination sick leave and annual leave (vacation pay) to settle in there then drive 361 miles nonstop with Sierra cat in a carrier to St George, Utah to reload the repaired camper on the truck and finish off my season working October 4, 5, and 6 followed by days off until EOD the 9th.  Of course I can leave before the 9th and hope the weather is conducive to exploring some of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.  Feels real good to have a winter plan and leave fall open to travel.

Gaelyn's arrowhead Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBut an even better “feel good” happened Wednesday night at the going away party for our supervisor who is moving on to Canyonlands National Park.  Although only at Bryce for about a year she was amazing and will be sorely missed.  Yet totally unexpected when staff gave me a small wooden arrowhead “In recognition of twenty-nine seasons of federal service.” People signed the back.  I cried like a baby. I’ve wanted one forever and it took special people to make that dream come true.  The arrowhead has traditionally been given to permanent employees when they leave their first permanent park.  Not something seasonals traditionally receive.  An amazing start to retiring as a Park Ranger.  But I’ll continue working September for a little while longer and continue dreaming of winter plans to the Sonoran Desert.

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30 August 2021

Back to work at Bryce Canyon and feels like Fall

hoodoos valley sunset clouds Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter 10 days off I returned to work at Bryce Canyon where the morning temperatures in the 40sF are feeling like Fall.  The closer I get to the end of this summer season the more ready I am not to work and instead learn about this next step in life called retirement.  And now that the camper is off the truck I’m lining up truck repairs.

trail crew Wall Street trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

trail crew Wall Street trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSo while I was gone from work at Bryce Canyon three inches of rain fell in two days and wiped out the Wall Street side of the Navajo Loop trail.  That’s .7 mile with a 550 foot change in elevation and from what I can see at the top, and a few photos taken by others from the bottom, it’s truly a mess the entire length.  Trail crew is working on it, but it could be a while.  Very labor intensive with picks and shovels and a motorized wagon-like earth mover for dirt and rocks.

roundabout jct SR12 & 63 crepuscular rays UtahJct SR63 & SR12 roundabout

It rained several times the afternoon I returned to Bryce and the following day also with a high of 62°.  Was a day of spending money.  Started off ordering several general items I’d put off for a while, weather stripping, a RV sewer gate, and stainless stovetop espresso pot to replace the old aluminum one.  When did the price of chocolate soar?  I use an organic dark chocolate syrup in my morning espresso jolt along with almond syrup and heavy whipping cream.  No high fructose in any of that.  When I went to order the usual Ah!laska the price had tripled and it was out of stock everywhere.  So, I’m trying a new brand.  Later in the day I met the local mechanic in Tropic and ordered rear shocks and front brake pads for him to put on.

One more day off and awoke to 43° at 8am.  Dang, it’s feeling like fall to winter already and it’s still August.  Took me until noon to warm up then drove three miles to town to fill a propane tank.  A seven gallon tank lasts about two months and it was getting close.

hoodoos sunset clouds Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Pink Cliffs full moon clouds Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Pink Cliff full moon Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBack to work at Bryce Canyon on Saturday with a late start and although I helped close the visitor center at 8pm I left two hours early—mental health time.  Drove hurriedly to Paria View, threw a coat over my uniform, and barely caught the end of sunset and the rising of the full moon.  Pointed it out to the half dozen people there.  Even with ambient light from sunset my shots are grainy and out of focus.  Really need to use the tripod for clear shots.

snake Bryce Canyon National Park UtahStarted and worked late the next day also with too many hours at the information desk.  After setting up my computer for the 9pm evening program I took a short walk to the rim hoping for some late sunset light on the hoodoos.  A sweet little 18” garter snake was in the path, so after taking its picture I encouraged it off the trail into the brush.  Was a small group of only 20 visitors for the program—usually 40-50 attend—and by the end my fingertips were cold at 55°.

hoodoo windows shadow Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMonday I worked the information desk in the late morning and presented the 2pm hoodoo geology talk.  Then spent the next three hours roving near Sunset Point which meant talking a lot about the closed Wall Street trail.  It is, understandably, one of the most popular hikes in the park.  Water damage was visible from the overlook.  Left two hours early.  Guess I should check to see how many hours of sick leave I have left to burn.

I am blown away by how many people don’t know how to read a map.  Even boomers seem to have lost the ability to read a paper map.  I am a mapaholic and love my paper road atlases.  I do use the phone app but mostly in an unfamiliar town to find my way around.  I pay attention to direction, North, South, East, and West.  That could be because I park the camper usually nose to the North—direction of the winter wind—and then get sunrise and set views.  When asked the standard “I/we just got here what should I/we do?” at the information desk I start with orientation to the park’s newspaper pointing out trail information and maps.  Some people can’t figure out which way to turn out the parking lot.  Sigh…

Mule Deer bucks Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTuesday was my Friday so I open the visitor center at 8am wearing a coat and gloves with temperature in the high 40s.  I know, I’m a weenie.  I am cold below 60°.  Saw at least half a dozen Mule deer near my house that morning including some bucks with large racks of antlers.

smoke haze view South GRSE from Yovimpa Pt Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBest part about this schedule is spending the afternoon at Yovimpa Point, the southern end of the scenic road.  Sadly, there was a smoky haze diminishing the typical 100 mile view.  Yet I still presented at least three talks about the Grand Staircase geology including cultural history in the story.  Plus talk about fire ecology frequently, and answer a variety of other questions.  The wind was blowing wickedly from the south and I had to hold onto my flat-top hat so finally bagged it and as I left the Peregrine Falcon put in a brief appearance.  Stopped at Natural Bridge overlook for about an hour of roving which usually amounts to questions about how much further the road goes—eight miles—and is it worth it—of course.  Almost back to the office I saw three wild turkeys along the road.  Must be fall, everybody is eating like crazy.

hoodoos Earth Shadow Fairland Pt Bryce Canyon National Park UtahGot home, changed clothes, and joined friends in town for dinner, delicious 1/2 rack of ribs made another two meals.  On the way home I stopped at Fairyland Point because I hadn’t been there all summer.

Wednesday was the National Park Service’s 105th birthday.  Also my first of four days off, down days to mostly recuperate from the work at Bryce Canyon.  I’m not sure if our park did anything special to celebrate.

I didn’t celebrate anything on my next days off either.  Been a real poop lately, not going anywhere much out of the park.  Sometimes, staying home feels best.

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Bryce Canyon National Park, full moon, Park Ranger, Places I've been, RV life, United States, Utah full moon, Park Ranger, sunset, trail closures, truck repairs 19 Comments
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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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