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Tag: National Park

13 November 2009

Death Valley National Park Furnace Creek

Some folks called it hell.
Furnace Creek Inn Death Valley National Park CaliforniaFurnace Creek Inn
Originally built as a working ranch in the 1880s it is now a complete resort complex including 224 guest units, three restaurants, a saloon, a general store, an airstrip, gift shops, gas station, post office, three campgrounds, horse rides, carriage rides, golf course, tennis courts and swimming pool.  This is as close as I got to Death Valley National Park Furnace Creek.  Way too swanky for my budget and a major difference to the lifestyle at Harmony Borax Works where we’d just visited.
Old locomotive Furnace Creek Death Valley National Park CaliforniaOld locomotive
After the closure of borax mines in Death Valley the Pacific Coast Borax Company from 20 Mule Team fame encouraged tourists to use their narrow gauge railway to visit Death Valley.  The Furnace Creek Inn was completed in 1927 but the railroad closed in 1930 because tourists preferred the freedom of driving their own cars.
Inside Borax museum Furnace Creek Death Valley National Park CaliforniaInside Borax Museum
In 1926, the company promoted the idea of Death Valley becoming a national park to the director of the National Park Service Stephen Mather.  But because of his prior employment with the borax company and to avoid favoritism he suggested media support and thus the successful radio program Death Valley Days was created.  Finally in 1933, President Hoover created Death Valley National Monument and in 1994 Congress designated it as a National Park.
Old stagecoach Furnace Creek Death Valley National Park CaliforniaOld stage coach
Springs in the Amargosa Range created a natural oasis at Furnace Creek which according to a US Geologic Survey report has subsequently dwindled due to diversion of this water to support the developed area.  Who’s surprised about that, it’s a damn desert.
Old grinding mill Furnace Creek Death Valley National Park CaliforniaOld grinding mill
Furnace Creek has the distinction of holding the record for the highest ever recorded temperature in the United States reaching 134 °F (57 °C) on July 10, 1913.  Elevation is 190 feet (58 meters) below sea level.  No wonder this place gets called hell.  But the 2000 census only showed the
population as 31.
Furnace Creek Inn Death Valley National Park CaliforniaFurnace Creek Inn, an oasis in the Funeral Mountains
The visitor center was very interesting, so much so that I got sidetracked and didn’t take any pictures.  But I picked up a Junior Ranger book.  Then we went on a guided Ranger walk into Natural Bridge Canyon.

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California, Death Valley National Park, National Parks and Monuments Furnace Creek, National Park 27 Comments
11 November 2009

Death Valley National Park Harmony Borax Works

20 Mule Team Borax box Sodium borate, or borax, known as the “White gold of the desert” once ranked as Death Valley’s most profitable mineral.  And after a visit to Death Valley National Park Harmony Borax Works you’ll know why.  There’s salt everywhere.
Harmony Borax Works Death Valley National Park CaliforniaHarmony Borax Works
Harmony Borax Works was one of the first mines operating in California from 1883-1888.  Owner William Coleman also mined borax in Nevada.  Although reasonably profitable, Coleman made some bad investments so when borax deposits were discovered closer to rail lines and new processing technology developed the Harmony closed.
Salt deposits Harmony Borax Works Death Valley National Park CaliforniaSalt deposits
Salt minerals, or borates, deposited on ancient lake beds uplifted and eroded into the yellow Furnace Creek badlands.  Then water dissolved the borates and carried them to the Death Valley floor where they recrystallized as borax.
20 Mule Team wagon Harmony Borax Works Death Valley National Park California20-Mule Team Wagon
Crude shelters and tents once dotted this flat where Chinese laborers slept and ate.  They scraped the borax off the salt flats with shovels and carried it by wagon to the refinery.  They received $1.30 a day less lodging and food bought at the company store.  Certainly not an easy life.
Interpretive sign for 20 Mule Team wagon Harmony Borax Works Death Valley National Park CaliforniaThe giant wheels were protected with steel tires eight inches wide and an inch thick which had to be replaced regularly.  Two men rode the wagons, driver and swamper, and traveled 15 to 17 miles (24 to 27 km) a day.  Waterholes were 50 miles (80 km) apart with dusty, rocky, sandy ruts for roads in between.
Boiler at refinery Harmony Borax Works Death Valley National Park CaliforniaBoiler at refinery
Workers refined borax by separating the mineral from unwanted mud and salts.  The borax crystallized on iron rods suspended in large vats.  However the borax won’t crystallize in temperatures above 120 F (48.9 C) so Harmony Borax Works closed during summer.
Interpretive sign at Harmony Borax Works Death Valley National Park CaliforniaBorax has long been used for every kind of household cleaning from windows to tile grout.  It is also a component of cosmetics, insecticide, glass, pottery and enamel glazes.  It is used as a food additive or preservative in some countries yet is banned in the US.
On the road Death Valley National Park CaliforniaSome of the workers from Harmony Borax Works lived in nearby Furnace Creek. Which is where we headed next.

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09 November 2009

Death Valley National Park Salt Creek

Bird tracks on sand Death Valley National Park CaliforniaAfter our first full day in Death Valley National Park we didn’t beat the early birds but did try to get an early start and headed to the .5 mile (.8 km) roundtrip boardwalk to Salt Creek.
Salt Creek trail Death Valley National Park CaliforniaSalt Creek Trail
There actually is a stream of sorts running through parts of Death Valley at over 200 feet (60 meters) below sea level. Salt Creek originates from brackish springs and marshes and the water becomes increasingly salty as it flows downstream. It meanders out onto the valley floor and eventually evaporates into the desert air leaving vast salt flats behind. Even this water, sometimes more saline than seawater, offers an oasis to plants and animals.
Pickleweed Salt Creek trail Death Valley National Park CaliforniaPickleweed
Pickleweed stores absorbed salt in special cells in their succulent stems. When too much salt builds up in a stem segment, the plant replaces it with fresh growth. It goes dormant over the winter when possible rains can increase the creek’s flow and reduce the salinity.
Salt Creek Death Valley National Park CaliforniaSalt Creek
Insects are drawn into the area and eaten by the Killdeer, which are in turn eaten by Coyotes or even Sidewinders. Yet the most adapted survivors in this harsh environment are the rare and endemic Salt Creek Pupfish.
Interpretive sign for Salt Creek Pupfish Death Valley National Park CaliforniaMore than 10,000 years ago pupfish lived in streams that fed freshwater Lake Manly which filled the bottom of Death Valley. As the climate became more arid the lakes dried up leaving the pupfish stranded in permanent waterholes scattered across the desert. They can withstand temperatures from near freezing to 111 F (43.88 C).
Salt Creek Death Valley National Park CaliforniaI didn’t see any pupfish.
View from Salt Creek trail Death Valley National Park CaliforniaView West from trail
Fossil evidence reveals life long before the pupfish or its Ice Age lake. The tracks of camels, primitive horses, lion-sized cats and mastodons left in the silty lake bottom have now been uplifted and eroded into these badlands.
View from Salt Creek trail Death Valley National Park CaliforniaView East from trail
As we learned at Harmony Borax Works, the ancient salt deposits would later be mined and used by blacksmiths, potters, dairy farmers, housewives, meat packers and even morticians. 

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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