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Tag: Lee’s Ferry

27 September 2016

Watching the world go by–North Rim to Yarnell Arizona

September 18-19, 2016

A road trip along US89, a classic north and south route through Arizona, taking pics while driving because I enjoy watching the world go by.  Don’t get me wrong, I also like to stop to take in the scene along the way.  But sometimes I take an A to C trip with only stop B along the way.  And frequently the photos are blurry and out of wack.

I left the North Rim about 3:30 taking off early from work Sunday afternoon.  Figured on about a two hour leisurely drive to Lee’s Ferry hoping there’d be space to camp.  Nice to break up the otherwise seven hour drive to Yarnell.

Fall aspen SR67 North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThe quaking aspen were putting on quite a show.  Young stands created a golden blanket edged in ever greens.  Taller and older aspen thrust out more isolated clusters of color entirely framed in green.  Some stubbornly hung on to their summer foliage while others were stripped bare.  Driving past at 60mph created a fall kaleidoscope.

Meadows SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaSeptember rains make the meadows look like golden fields of grain with a green tinge as if it’s a little to early to harvest.  Yet the deer and bison graze heavily to fatten up for the coming winter.

Fall aspen 2006 Warm Fire SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThe ten year old burn displays a mixed topography of scattered tall snags standing in a field of golden young aspen.

Vermilion Cliffs SR89A E Kaibab National Forest Arizona

House Rock Valley & Vermilion Cliffs SR89A E Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAfter a quick cookie stop at Jacob Lake I headed east on SR89A.  Hadn’t been this way for quite a while and certainly not past House Rock Valley Road since going to White Pocket in March with Pam and John.  Did come back that way last January after the Grand Canyon Association and blogger gatherings in Quartzsite.  It just looked all different yet familiar, like an old friend not seen for decades.

Echo Cliffs SR89A E ArizonaOf course it was only a few weeks back while camping at Marble View I’d looked down on this scene.  I love to do that, see where I’ve been or where I’m going.  In fact when I see a road I want to drive it.

Vermlion Cliffs SR89A E ArizonaSure nice to go from fall back to summer.  It was 65°F (18°C) when I left the 8200 foot (2500 m) North Rim and 87° (30°C) on the 5000 foot (1524 m) Marble Plateau.  I could feel the work weight lift and drift away watching the multiple mineral colors of the Vermilion Cliffs slide by.

Vermilion Cliffs SR89A East ArizonaFelt like I was racing the clock a bit because I wanted to be in camp before sunset and knew that would come a little earlier than I’m used to being I’d be surrounded by the warm towering rocks.  The shadows were lengthening.

To Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

To Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaI parked in shadow paying my $9 (half price with Senior Pass) camping fee then hurried down the road no more than four miles.

Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaThe campground is situated on a rise with mostly level gravel sites many having sun shelters over the picnic table and a wind/privacy fence or a few trees.  It’s dry-camping with bathrooms which I didn’t use.

Colorado River from Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaI parked with a view looking down on the Colorado River and just caught the last glowing tip of the eastern escarpment.  Pulling out a chair I sat absorbing the warmth under the dimming light and discovered a cell signal so sent a photo into the cyberworld.

Sunset Vermilion Cliffs from Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaA pastel sunset backed the scene.  The night was quiet and the moon lit the earth.

First light Paria Plateau over Colorado River from Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

First light on Vermilion Cliffs from Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaEarly morning was blanket weather that promised to warm quickly.  Just as the sun broke over the cliff at 6:30 am somebody had to break the silence with a generator.  Really don’t those multi-million dollar motorhomes have a propane stove to make coffee on.

SR89 South ArizonaTwo hours later I moseyed south, straight into the sun making for lousy photos, past the big Echo Cliffs.  Ah but to soar like a vulture over this magnificent landscape under a bright sun with thermals rising.  Would I rather be a Raven, vulture, hawk, a condor perhaps.  Makes me want to be a Navajo Edward Abbey.  Through the Painted Desert across the Navajo plains.  Scattered hogans and prefab houses, nice communities and scene.  Little wooden shelters some would call shacks with open signs and wares on the battered tables.

Humphreys Peak SR89 South ArizonaFinally Humphreys Peak appears on the horizon, the highest mountain in Arizona at 12,637 feet (3,852 m) it dominates the horizon at 75 miles (120 km) away.  And that means almost to Flagstaff, a little less than half way to go.

SR89 North Cameron ArizonaThe once tiny Navajo town of Cameron has grown into divided four lane highway, miles of street lights, sidewalks, and a roundabout at the turn off to Grand Canyon’s South Rim.  I’ll bet the bright lights at night obstruct the view of the sacred mountains.  Is it irony that a huge power grid runs across the Navajo land?

Humphreys Peak SR89 South ArizonaTo the west the clouds look like white chantrell mushroom swirls, to the east almost like a seismic graph, and in the middle a squiggly exclamation point.  Mt Humphreys wears patches of yellow on the north slope.  The trees change to ponderosa, yellow clusters of flowers that could be rabbit bush and the dead brown grasses blowing in the wind.  Coming up to Sunset Crater.  Then over the 7286 foot (2221 m) pass and 15 miles (24 km) to Flagstaff at 10:35am and 77°F (25°C) as I passed the turn off to Sunset Crater National Monument.

I40 West ArizonaNext to put up with city and traffic as I descend into Flagstaff yet I miss most of it by jumping onto the Interstate 40 for an hour to Ashfork then back on SR89 South.  But I’m not so keen driving on expressways, especially around big towns/cities, lots of trucks up hills going slow.  The speed limit is 75 mph but I set the cruise control for a little over 70 which is good enough and still seems too fast.

Construction Iron Springs Road ArizonaAn hour later off the freeway onto SR89 again, back in the juniper/pinyon forest with some chaparral.  What with the bright sun, dirty windshield, and roller coaster road to Paulden followed by to many roundabouts in Chino Valley no photos were taken while watching the world go by.  Then took the by-pass around Prescott on Iron Springs road, which is once again under construction between Kirkland and Skull Valley.

Sierra Yarnell Arizona3:30pm, parked in Berta’s Yarnell yard, level, backed up to the electric box and a huge shed that is almost as big as the little house.  Berta wasn’t home but Sierra welcomed me.

Camper view Yarnell ArizonaThe regrowth three years after the Yarnell fire is amazing and frames the sculptural standing dead trees.  Home Sweet Home.  At least for a few days, then back to the North Rim to finish out the season.

Push my buttons!

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Arizona Lee's Ferry, road trip, SR89, travel, Yarnell 12 Comments
13 April 2009

The Gypsy life of a seasonal Park Ranger at Grand Canyon National Park Summer 2008

Ranger Gaelyn North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaRanger Gaelyn
After hiking rim-to-rim across the Grand Canyon during training as a Park Ranger I could intelligently talk to visitors about the challenge involved. Down is optional, up is mandatory.
California Condor size comparison chart Vermilion Cliffs ArizonaCondor size comparisons posted below Vermillion Cliffs release site
Yet I also had a lot to learn about Grand Canyon National Park in preparation for presenting nine different Ranger programs. I spent the first month working every waking hour; reading, writing, researching, prepping, practicing and learning PowerPoint. All very interesting and well worth it.
Map of Grand Canyon and area ArizonaHowever, I didn’t limit myself to just the Grand Canyon, as there are so many amazing places in the area.
Fire tower Jacob Lake Kaibab National Forest ArizonaJacob Lake fire lookout tower
Jacob Lake Inn lies at the junction of highways 89A, and 67 into the North Rim. There is fuel, cabins, a restaurant with delectable home baked cookies, and a gift shop overflowing with a wide variety of excellently selected Native American arts and crafts.  But don’t expect to swim in Jacob Lake.
Vermlion Cliffs ArizonaVermillion Cliffs
Heading east you drop off the plateau onto House Rock Valley and follow the Vermillion Cliffs to Marble Canyon and Navajo Bridge, one of two Grand Canyon crossings located 277 miles apart.
Navajo Bridge over the Colorado River at Marble Canyon ArizonaNavajo Bridge over the Colorado River at Marble Canyon
There are actually two bridges and a small parking lot on one side with a visitor center. This is a worthwhile stop as you can walk onto the original bridge built in 1929 where you might see a California Condor.
Historic building Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaLee’s Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area
A short side trip upriver takes you to Lee’s Ferry, the original way to cross the Colorado River. This is also where the river rafting trips start. I haven’t gotten to do this, yet. Maybe I need to befriend some river guides. Anybody out there?
Windsor Castle Pipe Springs National Monument ArizonaWindsor Castle at Pipe Spring NM
Heading north from Jacob Lake on Hwy 89A leads to Utah. But a side trip west on Hwy 389 from Fredonia, Arizona leads through the Kaibab (Ki’ bab) Indian Reservation and past Pipe Spring National Monument. Park Rangers lead tours of the main house that Mormons built over the spring in the 1870s. You can also wander around the visitor center, cowboy’s quarters, vegetable garden and often see a blacksmith demonstration.
The Cathedral Zion National Park UtahThe Cathedral at Zion NP
If you continue north on Hwy 89A into Utah past Kanab, Hwy 9 west drives right through Zion National Park. Be prepared to pay the entrance fee or show a Park’s Pass.
The Great White Throne Zion Nationa Park UtaThe Great White Throne at Zion NP
A park shuttle takes you to several amazing places in Zion Canyon where you can hike or just enjoy the views.
Mules on the North Kaibab trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMules on the North Kaibab trail
One of the last tourist activities I did at Grand Canyon was take a mule ride to Roaring Springs, five miles down from the North Rim. Mules are huge! A cross between a female horse and a male donkey, they are often bigger than a horse. One of the main advantages for mules on this narrow precipitous trail is they can see all four feet at the same time whereas horses only see the two front feet.
Fall aspen Harvey Meadow North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaGolden fall Aspen Harvey Meadows Grand Canyon
As summer came to an end at the canyon so did my seasonal Park Ranger job. And so it was time to move back to Yarnell.

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Arizona, Grand Canyon NP, My gypsy life Grand Canyon National Park, Jacob Lake, Lee's Ferry, Navajo Bridge, Park Ranger, Pipe Springs National Monument, travel, Zion National Park 21 Comments

Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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