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Honoring the Sonoran Desert light, shadows, and wind

late light camper shadow desert Kofa Mts clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZBack to my happy place where clouds dancing over the Sonoran Desert make for amazing light and shadow play on the Kofa Mountains and even with wind provide a playground for birds, and me.

RV blocking me in VFW-BLM Yuma AZOnce the a-hole RVer left me free to move, stress level dropped, and I made a plan to return to the Sonoran Desert.  I spent a couple more days at the noisy VFW-BLM camp as I really don’t like to go anywhere on weekends.

sunrise clouds VFW-BLM Yuma AZSunrise

$5 box Girl Scout cookiesWho can resist?  I sold these almost 60 years ago for .50/box and now they’re $5

However, Sunday mornings are a good time to shop.  So I left camp about 10am and went into Yuma to run the usual errands, fill water, propane, and diesel, plus stock up on groceries that will hopefully get me through the rest of the month.

flowers blimp Dome Rock SR95 N AZThen I drove north on SR95 and along the way I saw one of the border patrol government blimps (white dot left of center) on the ground below Castle Dome Peak.

truckcamper Kofa Mts King Rd BLM AZ

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts clouds King Rd BLM AZIt’s only about an hour drive to the King Road which accesses Kofa National Wildlife Refuge and adjacent BLM (Bureau of Land Management) boondocking sites.  Sigh, by 1:30pm, back to the Sonoran Desert.  I found a nice large space with few RVs in sight and easily leveled with Saguaro and Kofa Mountain views.

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts King Rd BLM AZ

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts King Rd BLM AZ

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts clouds King Rd BLM AZWasn’t long before I was out for a walk into my new yard with camera in hand.  Clouds to the west changed the afternoon light to the east almost quicker than I could shoot.  The layers of formations in the Kofa Mountains are not always obvious under a cloudless mid-day sun.

Chocolate Mts sunset clouds King Rd BLM AZ

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts sunset clouds King Rd BLM AZColor me happy for expansive sunset skies all around.

cactus wren bird King Rd BLM Kofa AZCactus Wren

light & shadow Chocolate Mts clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZMorning light over the Chocolate Mts

Ravens King Rd BLM Kofa AZRavens

After a deep sleep surrounded by dark and quiet, I woke to the delightful song of a Cactus Wren.  (link to song) I am excited to have birds around and wonder about putting out the trail-cam somewhere.  That will take at least another walkabout and time to observe wildlife patterns.

alligator rock & crocodile cloud Kofa Mts King Rd BLM Kofa AZCrocodile cloud over alligator rock

I had an incredibly good signal—saw the towers on the Chocolate Mountains—that would service the border patrol stop which isn’t always open.

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZBecause of a “wellness check” from my cousin I answered emails and comments in the morning.

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZ

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZ

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZ

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZAfter lunch, the 75° day called me outside under a cloud patterned sky that once again played light and shadow games across the Sonoran Desert and mountain landscape.

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts reverse sunset clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZI made and posted a short video while embracing the apricity found in the Sonoran Desert.

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts reverse sunset clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZThroughout the afternoon a few new neighbors moved in, not too close thank goodness.

Doug & GaelynThe next day wind blew strong from the southwest and right on my door.  I was afraid to try and open the door that it might be ripped out of my hands or slammed in my face.  House was rocking.  Fellow blogger Doug came by and held the door for me to get out.  Then we managed to sit outside visiting for a little while on the almost none windy side of the camper.  But as that became shaded it cooled off enough to call it a day.  Doug held the door for me to get back inside and that’s where I stayed.

window view desert Chocolate Mts sunset clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZSunset through a window.

chocolate chip cookiesThe wind blew all night at a steady rocking 25mph with occasional gusts up to 60mph.  Same thing all day long.  With the high only 61° I warmed the house by baking chocolate cookies.  And I put up another short video about the Wicked Wind in the Sonoran Desert.

first light desert Kofa Mts clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZThe next morning was calm and chill at 39° and although it cleared briefly rain was predicted.

Cactus wren bird Saguaro King Rd BLM Kofa AZLoggerhead Shrike bird Saguaro King Rd BLM Kofa AZ

                 Cactus Wren                                                                 Loggerhead Shrike

But not before some birds came out to play.

desert Kofa Mts rainbow King Rd BLM Kofa AZThe wind returned but I did manage to push outside several times in the afternoon between gusts and rain drops to photograph rainbows.  Wasn’t enough rain to wet the ground or plump the cactus in this dry Sonoran Desert.

desert Kofa Mts clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZIt wasn’t terribly cold outside when the sun was shining but that wind is so annoying.  Yet I took advantage of the wind by taking a time-lapse through the window of the clouds scooting along.

morning light desert Chocolate Mts clouds King Rd BLM Kofa AZMorning light on Chocolate Mts

Saguaro desert Kofa Mts King Rd BLM Kofa AZAfternoon Kofa Mts

With a little less wind the next day, I bundled up and walked a short ways from camp in the afternoon.

Ocotillo nursery tree Saguaro King Rd BLM Kofa AZSaguaro King Rd BLM Kofa AZ

I never get very far even when I’m out for an hour or two.  So many distractions.

desert Kofa Mts sunrise clouds King Rd Kofa AZSunrise over Kofa Mts

That pretty much wraps up my first week back in the Sonoran Desert.  My current plan—and they sometimes change—is to hang here for the next full moon rise in early March.

Motorhome towing trailer King Rd BLM Kofa AZMaybe you can take it all with you

Arizona, Kofa NWR, Places I've been, Sonoran desert, United States , , 20 Comments

New sights on the Kofa NWR and people too

desert Kofa Mts low clouds Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaAfter returning to Kofa NWR (National Wildlife Refuge) from the Colorado River I just didn’t want to leave this peaceful desert, so settled in to a nice site with a marvelous view from yard or windows.  A little close to the road but firm pack rock and no washes to cross.  Enjoyed enough rain the desert and I were both smiling happy.

last light desert Kofa Mts clouds Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI find it hard to get away from this place, I leave and return to park in a slightly different location and view.  People find me because I’m still here, or back again, which is very cool.

Saguaro cactus mountains crescent moon setting Palm Canyon Rd BLM Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaTurns out that a Yarnell friend was camped up a bumpy side-road further than I wanted to drive.  Good thing, as she reminded me to look at the setting crescent moon after sunset that I took a rather ‘painterly’ shot of being too lazy to get out the tripod.  We visited a few days later as she was leaving the Kofa.

purple Phacelia flower Palm Canyon Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizonarain on white Chicory flower Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

As I wander around to explore my newest section of desert yard I saw flowers, mostly tiny and spread apart.  Not carpets of color but pops of purple Phacelia, aka scorpion weed that can cause irritation like poison ivy.  White daisy-like Chicory, and a yellow that was shaking in the wind so hard I couldn’t even take a decent picture to identify later.  They are growing from under other desert plants where moisture holds a little longer.

The strangest planes fly over the desert, at least strange to me.  Military jets whiz over fast and loud startling me every time.  I’m not fast enough to take a photo.  That became rather funny considering how low and slow a 4-prop whale-of-a-plane flew lazy circles, a couple times, over this portion of desert.  Some days I’ve seen a blimp high above the land to the south towards the Mexican border.  I was buzzed by a drone one afternoon, only heard it, didn’t see it.  Felt invasive.

Bob van Queen Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI have exceedingly sensitive hearing and one afternoon heard a rig pull up slowly and stop along the road less than 100 feet away.  I looked out to see an old 60s Chevy van and a man walking towards me.  Turned out to be blogger Bob’s eyes.  He invited me for a ride up Kofa Queen Canyon the next afternoon.

desert Kofa Mts Queen Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI think that ole 4×4 Chevy could go almost anywhere, especially with Bob behind the wheel.  Here’s his version of the day.

OHV Kofa Mts Queen Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaAt first the road would have been doable even for my rig, slowly enough.  But then, it got seriously jeep like.  We saw more than a few OHVs, even pulled over for some.  Probably a good thing my rig can’t get into that canyon or you’d never see me again.  The vegetation gets more dense the further up we went.

balancing rock Queen Canyon area Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaWell over 100 feet tall and could see light under the center

Then we passed all those rigs parked at Balancing Rock and continued to a side canyon, that after some serious looking at Google Maps I believe was Ten Ewe Canyon.

Bob desert Kofa Mts Ten Ewe Canyon Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaPresumably there’s a trail to 4877 foot Signal Peak, which was not our goal.  This was a slow walk with some boulders to negotiate looking for flowers or anything else that caught the eye.  I was happy to see moist ground, patches of grass, and many shades of green.

Ocotillo desert Kofa Mts Queen Canyon area Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaA few Poppies lower right

On the walk back I had to stop when becoming suddenly nauseous.  I believe I was overheated, lacked salts, and hadn’t eaten enough though I was drinking water.  A reminder to get out more and be prepared.

Skull rock Queen Canyon area Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaOn the return drive, Bob stopped at Skull Rock where there was now only one OHV with a lady looking up into the hills.  I was going to be content enough to take photos from sitting inside the van.

Bighorn Sheep Queen Canyon area Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Bighorn Sheep Queen Canyon area Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaBut on the other side of the road, over 100 yards away, were several Bighorn sheep cavorting on a large boulder.  So I got out for that and zoomed in best I could.

Palm Canyon Signal Pk & Queen Canyon Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona google mapLeft green Palm Canyon, right green Signal Peak, and canyon at top right is Queen Canyon

Thanks for the delightful afternoon Bob.  BTW, I felt just fine by the next day.

desert Kofa Mts clouds Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

desert Kofa Mts clouds Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

desert Kofa Mts clouds Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaThe next day in camp I took photos looking back to the Kofa Mountains and Queen Canyon we’d just been in, trying to put in perspective where we were.  I love to connect the dots that way.  (In the first pic just to the left of the big Saguaro and that rocky knob is Queen Canyon to the right.  Zooming in, just left of center it’s now a double knob below a ridgeline on the next two shots and the road is barely visible to the left.)

white Small Desert Star flowers Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaSmall Desert Star (smaller than a dime)

Also cool, is connecting with people.  One afternoon I saw a lady walking towards my camper from the road.  Turns out Jodie from Alberta reads my blog.  We stood around chatting for quite a while before the sun, and temperature, began to sink.  No photos of course, her comfortably in shorts and me layered with a jacket.

Palm canyon walls sunburst Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaSignal Peak at the end of Palm Canyon

I love the way social media brings people together and provides information.  Because I follow the Kofa NWR FB page I saw the announcement for a Saturday morning guided walk up Palm Canyon.

Although I hadn’t been there this winter, I have hiked this 1-mile round trip trail a couple times before where I wrote about the geology and ecology.  I was happy to join 30+ other folks mostly my age and degree of aptitude lead by a recently graduated biology student working her summer internship with USFWS (US Fish & Wildlife Service).  Also along to answer questions was the volunteer host/helper for the last six winters along Palm Canyon Road.  Bound to learn something new and I wasn’t disappointed.  Did you know, Mountain Sheep can survive 3-7 days without water but fortunately the recovered herds at Kofa have developed springs to satisfy their thirst.  I’m sure those water sources are also used by other wildlife like Pronghorn, coyote, fox, mountain lion, mule deer, and more.

Arizona Palm trees Palm Canyon Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaArizona Palm trees Palm Canyon Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

The trail climbs a little over some rocky terrain so I hung back to take my sweet time, and a few photos of course.  A sign points to the side canyon where the only known native Arizona Palms survive, even after a fire in 1953.  A short window, at the right time sends the afternoon sun onto the palms.  While waiting, I chatted with a Canadian couple who’d been on the walk.  Most folks had turned around.  A few continued up canyon, and a couple started to climb up the canyon with the palms.

I was happily tired upon returning to the camper and made lunch in the parking lot.

trees valley mountains from Palm Canyon trl Palm Canyon Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaOn the down-hill drive I noted several suitable campsites spaced more than comfortably apart along this rougher version of the Palm Canyon Road.  Various RV rigs including vans, motorhomes, tow-trailers, 5th-wheels, and campers like mine made their way those extra miles.  I even saw a couple tents near the very end of the road.

door view sunset Shady Lane RV Park Quartzsite ArizonaBut I needed to take care of RV chores.  So I drove back to Quartzsite and paid $22.50 for a night at Shady Lane RV Park because otherwise it would cost $8 for a shower, $15 dump tanks, and $2 to take on water, so why not.  Even got the laundry done before leaving.  And I get electricity to charge camera batteries, phone, and laptop.  Only a weird view for one night.

Sonoran desert Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

desert Palm Canyon Kofa Mts Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI’d been watching the weather forecast and saw Monday might bring rain with over night around 46°F.  That’s not really cold.  I considered a trip to Wickenburg for mail, a trip to my hairdresser in Yarnell, and camp along Vulture Mine Road.  Instead, possible snow in Yarnell Monday sent me back to, where else this winter, Kofa NWR to another camp further up the road.  In fact I’m within sight of the end of the road and trailhead parking lot, maybe 1 1/2 miles away.  My nearest neighbors included 4-5 other campers well spread out.  The signal was iffy at best.

Sonoran desert sunset Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Sonoran desert cholla sunset Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Sonoran desert sunset Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaIn the afternoon lots of cholla light up joined by Ocotillos all decorated in green and some nearby Saguaro cactus.  A few creosote bushes already heavy with buds begin to flower in yellow.

Sonoran desert sunset Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

burro tracks Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI’m guessing burro

USFWS designates dispersed campsites with consideration for the land.  Kind of like it should be anyway, and too bad there has to be rules.  All sites are close to the road but there is little traffic most of the time and only wildlife after dark.

desert Kofa Mts clouds Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Palm Canyon Kofa Mts clouds Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaMaybe the morning’s incoming clouds chased off the three campers further up the road, or maybe it was just time to move on.

desert Kofa Mts clouds Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI love to watch clouds, and these did not disappoint.  Changing faster than I could photograph throughout the day.  Way too chill and windy to just hang outside so I got my exercise getting in and out of the camper like a Stairmaster.  With only a 40% chance of rain those clouds could have taken their moisture with them.

through window rain desert fog Kofa Mts Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaInstead, around 2pm a few splatters fell.

desert Kofa Mts low clouds Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaThen the clouds dropped, hiding some layers of the Kofa Mountains.  The wind increased bringing a steady but not heavy rain for about an hour.

desert Kofa Mts Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaThe system moved quickly from northeast to southwest.  And was suddenly gone.

desert Kofa Mts sunset clouds Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaLater, enough clouds hung out for a pretty yet not overly colorful sunset.

Lots of photos this week in a long post.  That’s what happens when I’m in a place for a while.  So many new sights on the Kofa NWR and I’ve barely scratched the surface of the 665,400 acres.

And now I’m feeling the pull further south by a rumor of wildflowers.  I’ll be off to Why, Arizona.  Almost as good as Nothing but has a tiny store, restaurant, and Indian Casino plus BLM boondocking in dense Sonoran Desert adjacent to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument (where I don’t want to see the destruction by building a needless wall).

Gaelyn & Sierra cat selfieThe shutter on the big Nikon is dying.  Sometimes just a long lag, sometimes nothing at all.  I turn the camera off and back on which sometimes works.  I’ve taken the battery out and back in and sometimes that works.  And sometimes, it works for a while.  Costs more to replace the shutter than the camera body is worth.  I am sad for this “Big Girl” Nikon D5100 who has served me well since 2012.  Here’s hoping she hangs in there longer as I can’t afford to replace her right now.

Arizona, Kofa NWR, Places I've been, United States , , , , , , 16 Comments

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