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Tag: Kaibab National Forest

20 July 2022

Grand Canyon Ponderosa petrichor and views too

late light canyon birds storm clouds sun rays Desert View South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaA much needed mini-vacation to escape the heat found me breathing deep of the Grand Canyon Ponderosa petrichor while exploring the lesser visited eastern end of the South Rim under monsoon skies and boondocking in the adjacent Kaibab National Forest.

plateaus sunset clouds sunrays Desert View South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

canyon sunrays sunset clouds Desert View South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaOK, I left you hanging last week, but I wasn’t sure what would happen. After shooting sunset over Grand Canyon, I decided not to drive back into the forest in the dark and chanced staying in the Desert View parking lot.  Turned out I was undisturbed through the night*.

sunrise Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

sunrise Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

sunrise Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWoke up 30 minutes before the alarm set at a ridiculous 4:30am, made and drank only a little coffee as the sky was brightening.  I grabbed water and gear, including the tripod, and headed directly to Desert View Watchtower.  I was the only person there and moved all around the 180° possible without having wings.

canyon Colorado River sunrise Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Cedar Mt sunrise clouds Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaIt was a pretty sunrise, but I’ve seen better, and this was a difficult place to shoot.  Now I know.

Watchtower from Navajo Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaLooking east back at the Watchtower

After an early breakfast I headed back west, first stop Navajo Point and again had the place to myself.

light & shadow inner canyon Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

three Ravens Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFollowed by a quick stop at Lipan Point where I was entertained by a trio of over-friendly Ravens.  It was just them and me.

I was exhausted from a restless night and too early morning so headed back to the national forest to find a new camp that I wouldn’t have to share.  Got settled under the pines and after lunch took a nap.  Awoke to soft rain on the roof and the delightful smell of Ponderosa petrichor pouring in my open door and windows.

Abert squirrels Kaibab National Forest ArizonaMovement caught my eye about 50 feet into the forest as two Abert squirrels chased each other in unabandoned delight, for them and me.  They came pretty close to the camper but I dared not open the door so grabbed the camera and shot through the screen.  The first of these tassel-eared squirrels I’d seen this visit.  Used to see their cousins, Kaibab squirrels, on the North Rim all the time with the main visual difference being Abert has a white belly and only underside of tail is white.  Both delightfully entertaining.

The next morning I woke way too early and don’t plan to make a habit of it.  Rained lightly on and off for a good part of the day so I sat inside working on a blog post and goofing around online.  So amazing, I can be sitting in a forest deep and get a darn good signal.

Abert squirrel camp2 FR310 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaLook closely at the bottom center

I sat outside soaking up the afternoon, listening to distant rumbles, watching the clouds drift away to the northwest, and just before dusk the Abert squirrels came back.

Abert Squirrel Kaibab National Forest ArizonaPonderosa petrichor and squirrels were the next days entertainment as well.  Wish I could bottle the essence of petrichor in the forest, and the desert too.  Geosmin is the chemical that produces that unmistakable aroma of petrichor, which loosely translates as earth odor.  I think the scent helps keep me calm because after working all day on the Rambling Road Trip to Grand Canyon video, it scrambled, lost audio, and partly disappeared from Movie Maker.  Instead of screaming, I went to bed.

canyon river West Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWith a weekend approaching I decided to get to the rim once again before the crowds.  So, after coffee and checking emails I rolled off this delightful forest camp and returned to my favorite eastern overlook, Lipan Point.  Much better than another day at the computer.

canyon West clouds LIpan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWhen I pulled in to park a car in front of me parked in the middle of the parallel over-sized vehicle parking when there was plenty of car parking available.  I rolled down my window and asked her to move mentioning this being for big rigs like mine.  She did and I thanked her.  Then I parked there most of the day.

canyon river Walhalla Plateau storm cloud Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

canyon river West & North clouds Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaEnjoyed time out along the rim watching a storm build over the Walhalla Plateau on the North Rim.  After lunch I continued to enjoy the view from the camper while working on the next blog post.

pair Ravens Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThe Lipan Raven trio begged from every person who got out of their car, and frequently got fed.  What amazes me is how briefly people stay at the overlook, two minutes tops for a quick oh-ah, selfie, and gone.  Unless it’s a van full of Asians because they all have to take an individual selfie, in the exact same place and line up to do it.  I was tempted to set up camera on tripod to watch people and cars come and go so quickly. I’d laugh if it wasn’t so sad.

Raven on rock Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThose Ravens came right up to the step below my open camper door with Sierra almost ready to pounce if they came any closer.  I did get a little video that will be shared when I get to it.  Later when back out at the rim, I saw where the Ravens stashed some of their begged treats in holes in a rock.  They are too smart for their own health.

North Rim rain clouds Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaStorm clouds danced over the canyon all day but by late afternoon the sky was a dense gray that didn’t forebode well for any sunset colors so I returned to the forest to find another camp.

pine pollen puddle Kaibab National Forest ArizonaPonderosa Pine pollen puddle

puddle cloud reflection quins Kaibab National Forest ArizonaPuddlequins

The entire next day it rained on and off, sometimes soft and gentle female rain, but also hard and long enough to create puddles.  Sure was glad I didn’t have to go anywhere.

Ponderosa Pine clouds camp3 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaFelt like the Ponderosa Pine Symphony complete with light show and heavy percussion.  I love to feel the rumble, hear the birds, taste the rain, smell the Ponderosa petrichor, and see sun light patches on the forest floor. 

bird tree last light glow Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI was able to recover the messed up video after much searching for answers but there were more problems to come.

Saturday dawned sunny and bright which dried most of the puddles and solar charged the camper battery.  I uploaded the repaired video.  Yet it seems nothing is easy in YouTube. I must have searched for well over an hour how to add music and then it got stuck so I didn’t know if I added enough or any at all.  I’m not knowledgeable about music but figured anything would be an improvement over the engine noise that isn’t reduced by the external microphone with wind ball. I know it should get easier eventually, but some of this really isn’t fun.  Sorry, there’s no music.

The scent is described as vanilla or butterscotch, to me it’s cookies

Stayed sunny most of the day with just enough sprinkles to enhance the Ponderosa petrichor.

fading view East to Watchtower Grandview Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI rolled out of camp Sunday morning and headed to the rim and west to Grandview Point.  I planned to hang out there enjoying the view for several hours then meet a friend for lunch in the Village near the Market.

Horseshoe Mesa Grandview Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFrom this overlook, the Grandview trail drops 2500 feet in 3 miles to Horseshoe Mesa then splits east and west to other backcountry options (permits needed).  The original trail was built in 1890 by Pete Berry and fellow miners to the Last Chance Mine.  It’s said the copper ore was rich but the amount was small.  So Berry built the Grandview Hotel in 1897, first hotel along the rim, and offered mule rides into the canyon.  Tourism was born.  Then the railroad arrived to the south rim in 1901, 14 miles away, copper prices crashed six years later, and by 1908 the hotel shut down and was later dismantled.

tree tops dark clouds South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAfter lunch it poured and I left the park heading south into a different area of the Kaibab National Forest in search of another camp before driving home Monday.  And so enjoyed a little more Ponderosa petrichor.

*Disclaimer:  I am in no way advocating or recommending “camping” in national park parking lots.  However, if you are self contained, respectful, and plan to photograph at night, it’s really the only option.  Just be prepared for the late night knock.  In the future, I would consider putting a sign on the dash and camper door, “Photographing night sky”, and just hope for the best.

Sierra cat Kaibab National Forest ArizonaStill seeking kitty sitter for a stayCATion for a week in mid-September.  Could be either stationary in the big 5th-wheel Skull Valley, Arizona.  OR,  Consider travel in the truckcamper at your own expense.  Sierra is a wonderful glamper and companion once she gets to know you.

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Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park South Rim, monsoon, Places I've been, United States boondocking, Kaibab National Forest, petrichor, photography, Ponderosa Pine 19 Comments
29 September 2014

Cruising the Kaibab for Autumn color

Fall aspen SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaFriday, on one of my day’s off, I decided to cruise the Kaibab for autumn color.

Fall aspen and evergreens along meadow Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAlong the meadows and hillsides the aspen are changing.  The sun played hide and seek with clouds cruising across the sky.  Like a naughty child playing with a light switch the leaves took on an electric neon brilliance and then an after glow.  Every time I stopped for sunglow it went away before I could adjust the camera.

Dancing fall aspen Kaibab National Forest ArizonaYet the saplings appeared to be dancing in joy.

Golden aspen thru evergreens Kaibab National Forest ArizonaWind shimmered and blew the leaves like confetti at this Autumn parade.

Fall aspen Kaibab National Forest ArizonaRainbows of warm colors contrasted with greens.  Saw turkeys on the road and startled several deer.

Looking up fall aspen Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI was almost on overload with all the glow.

Rainy view South from Parissawampitts Point Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAfter several hours of mesmerizing drive I reached Parissawampitts Point with an outstanding view south across Grand Canyon and watched the rain headed my way.  Which was a sign to turn around and head home once again through the splashes of color.

Rainbow and fall aspen Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThough only a little rain fell I was blessed with a rainbow gift.

Fall aspen reflected in puddle Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI must have missed the bulk of the rain because I did find puddles.

Fall aspen Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAnd although the aspen colors were magnificent in some areas…

Leaf covered forest floor Kaibab National Forest Arizona…the leaves are falling and the forest floor looked like a 1970s carpet.

Stormy clouds over fall aspen Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThe hillsides of colorful young aspen glowed in the dusky light on the drive home.

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fall Kaibab National Forest 32 Comments
17 June 2013

Grand Canyon views from Timp Point in the Kaibab National Forest

Steamboat Mountaint to South of Timp Point Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Not all Grand Canyon views are seen within the National Park.  When visiting the North Rim other options for viewing the canyon can be found in the Kaibab National Forest.  Several points are accessible by gravel roads and although I cruise in a 2-wheel drive pickup truck these roads may be traveled by any high clearance passenger car or SUV, with caution.

Forest Road 271 to Timp Point Kaibab National Forest Arizona

I’ve previously visited some of the western viewpoints like Crazy Jug, Fence Point and Fire Point but am trying to see them all.  So I drove out to Timp Point the other day.  From the paved State Route 67 I followed Forest Roads 22, 270, 222, 206 and 271 for 16 miles.  All very well signed along the way but I still recommend a Kaibab National Forest map.  The road gets narrower and rougher the closer you get to the point.  From FR222 on it’s an extra wide, one lane gravel road through forest of aspen, pine and fir.  15-25 mph was my average speed to be safe and I constantly watched for sharp pointy rocks and the occasional vehicle coming the other way.

Had to slow down a little for extra rough spots but the 1.5 hour gravel drive is certainly worth it.  The views spectacular.

Trail to Timp Point Kaibab National Forest Arizona

From the parking area a short trail of maybe 1/4 mile each way leads to a rocky outcrop which I chose not to boulder hop too far out on.

View West from Timp Point Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Views to the south across canyon, to the north to the canyon walls and west down canyon and beyond.

View West from Timp Point Kaibab National Forest Arizona

I only met two people along the trail and we stopped to chat.  I answered a few questions because that’s what Park Rangers do even when off work.

Rainbow Rim trail sign Kaibab National Forest Arizona

The Rainbow Rim trail joins the many points from Parissawampitts to Timp for a total of 18 miles one way.  This trail is for hiking, biking and horse traffic only.  Picking a middle point and going out either way from a base camp would be ideal.  There is no water so bring lots.

Campsite Timp Point Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Just a few, 3 maybe 4, sweet camping spots along the southern rim of the point are private, spacious and have enough room to easily turn around.  I saw one small trailer in a site.  Sure would have to take it slow to tow out there.

So, when will I learn to bring all the camp gear when I go for a ride to explore a new place?

View South of canyon from campsite Timp Point Kaibab National Forest Arizona

I sat at the edge of Grand Canyon watching an ant. One ant persistently trying to move a carcass at least 8 times its size. Would have made good macro video if I’d been able. That ant was kicking up dirt.  Finally had to go for reinforcements.

Ponderosa Pine Timp Point Kaibab National Forest Arizona

I listened to the wind whisper in the pines, like ocean waves, very meditative. The smell of the Cliff Rose wafting in the air. Bird sounds, until a jet flew over.

Weidemeyer's Admiral in Gambel Oak Timp Point Kaibab National Forest Arizona

A peaceful place to relax in the moving shade of a few giant old pines and enjoy a personal slice of the canyon.

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Arizona, Grand Canyon, Kaibab National Forest Arizona, Grand Canyon views, Kaibab National Forest, Timp Point 29 Comments
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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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