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Tag: hiking

24 February 2015

Hiking an Anza-Borrego slot canyon

I’ll bet there are thousands of Anza-Borrego slot canyons throughout the badlands, some easy to access and others impossible.  From my view at Fonts Point I saw endless possibilities but no clearly marked trails.  Yet a Ranger at the visitor center assured me I could get the truck out to “The Slot” marked on the map at the Butte Pass turn off.

Sunrise Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaSo I invited Nan and John to hike along and picked them up at 9am and we started with the Farmers Market in Borrego Springs.  Hey, that’s early for us retired folks.

Slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

John & Nan entering slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaAbout a 13 mile drive from Borrego Springs to the Butte Pass turn off from CA78 and another mile of doable sand/gravel road brought us to parking at the edge of the canyon.  There are a couple of options to get into the canyon.  One up hill to the right, or around as we discovered on the way out, then down a slope. The other an obvious scramble down about 50 feet which turned out to be the hardest part of the hike.

Slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaUnlike Utah slot canyons of smooth and colorful sandstone, these siltstone canyon walls made up of multiple layers of river deposits carved by time and water reveal textures of various sized stones interspersed with shale.  Red, green, orange, white, gray, speckled and solids, sharp and rounded protruding from the canyon walls defied us rockhounds being solidly cemented in.

Formations in slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaIn fact that “cement” was evident in some of the formations that reminded me of dripped sand castles.  Yet one more example of how we imitate nature.

Slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaWasn’t long before the canyon narrowed and the walls rose higher.  Yet the soft sandy trail was still wide enough for other hikers to pass us slow pokes with our noses almost against the wall looking at a layer of bean-sized calcite crystals.

John in slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThen narrower yet requiring a few twists and bending on our part.  Felt like going through a combination maze and cave.  Encountered a few 12-18 inch drops which proves a bit more interesting when wedged between a rock and a hard spot.

Boulders wedged in slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaAnd then there’s boulders from above.  We moved under those a little quicker, just in case, and I reminded everybody not to sneeze.

Graffiti in slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaTwist and turns brought more spectacular carved shapes caused by water that pours from above.  Not a time to be in a slot canyon.  And then we saw where someone had defiled the canyon walls with a fresh lipstick drawing of a hangman that Nan rubbed out with a piece of rock.  How can anyone do this?

Slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaAt one point the slot almost seemed to close in upon us like an abrupt end.

Slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaBut then opened up to an easy walk.

End of slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaUntil finally the canyon floor was wide enough to drive in, and we saw the proof of that from tire tracks possibly from an ORV.  Also an increase in human litter.

Concretion at end of slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaHere we saw some very unusual concretions, rock made of sand and calcite that look like roundish or flattened balls.  Nan and I were so intrigued by these bulbous rock sculptures and secretly tried to figure out how to move a large watermelon-sized specimen back up through the slot.  Yet we knew it was all we could do to get ourselves through some of the squeezes.  And then what to do with a 100 pound rock when living in a RV.

Slot canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThe return route always goes faster for me even though the reverse views are different.  Well, maybe being hungry had something to do with that also.  Although only about 1.5 miles round trip we took several casual hours to explore this unusual environment.  Nice to find like-minded slow hikers.

Presunset Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaAnd this amazing sky greeted our return to the top.

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Anza-Borrego, California hiking, slot canyon 27 Comments
02 September 2013

Relaxing at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park

Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

After leaving Knysna where I finally got to meet fellow blogger Jo I backtracked to Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park.  No, not to go ziplining again, but to just enjoy this exquisite coastline for a couple of days.

Waves crashing at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Treating myself

During my 2010 visit I spent a few rushed hours at Tsitsikamma and promised myself a return.

Chalet Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I called ahead and booked a chalet requesting a porch view of the Indian Ocean.  This was not the most expensive option but definitely more than I usually spend.  But then it did come with all the comforts, and I deserved it.

Wine glass with reflection at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

After checking in I went to lunch enjoying the view where Storms River Mouth meets the sea.

Crashing waves at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I wanted to relish a lazy day so only went for a little afternoon walk along the rocky shore.

Crashing waves at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Then returned to my chalet and spent the evening watching the waves.

Birds seen at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Plus a few birds.

Sunset Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

And a glorious sunset.

Chalet Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I loved it so much that after choosing another chalet, for a few dollars less even closer to the beach, was able to reserve for another night.

Taking a hike

Small waterfall along Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Having to wait until afternoon to move into my beachfront chalet I decided to take a short hike to the suspension bridges on The Mouth Trail.  Only a few steps from the beach located below the restaurant where the trail begins, a small waterfall trickles into a shallow pool surrounded by the dense forest.

Boardwalk section of Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Most of the trail is raised boardwalk which I respect for the land even though I like my feet on the ground.

Flowers at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Gnarly maybe blak ironwood tree along Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Thick and almost impenetrable lush growth covers the rocky landscape not far from the shore.

Suspension bridges looking down Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

After many scattered views of Storms River flowing into the Indian Ocean the trail abruptly opens to steep steps, down to the suspension bridges.

Suspension bridges Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I’m OK with heights and bridges where I walk softly with frequent stops to enjoy the experience and view.

Storms River Mouth from Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Storms River canyon from Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

But I don’t appreciate when mutual walkers on the bridge decide it’s fun to make it rock, usually in an attempt to scare their hiking companion.  (Read guy and girlfriend.)  Makes it very difficult to take sharp photos. Long enough and I’d feel seasick.  Looking up Storms River reminded me of another view I’d seen of this narrow gorge from the Paul Sauer Bridge.

Overlook above Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

The escarpment on either side of the river reaches a height of 590 feet (180 m) and the Viewpoint Trail continues 1.24 miles (2 km) up to a lookout point on the plateau which I decided to pass on.

Cobblestone beach Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma Nationa Park South Africa

Instead I marveled at the cobblestone beach, driftwood, tiny life, and the water.

Dassies along Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Park information says this .62 mile (1 km) loop trail will take 40 minutes and I took almost three hours with stops for views and photos, even pointing out small and not so small things along the trail to seemingly unobservant trail walkers.

 Looking back at bridges from on Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I don’t walk trails just to walk or mark off my list. It’s not necessarily about the destination, as the journey along the way is always filled with marvels and exclamations.

Endless wave action

Mostly I sat on the chalet balcony absorbing the ocean’s energy.  The crashing waves captivated me for hours, and 1000s of photos trying to catch the splashing waves, the light, the curl, the color.

Crashing waves at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I don’t really care to swim in the salt water, just listen and watch.

Sunrise on waves at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I watched the sun set and rise as wind blew mist off the cresting waves.

Gulls & dassies Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

My company included seagulls and dassies, or rock hyrax.

Crashing waves at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

And the constantly crashing waves.

Sunrise over waves & dolphins at Tsitsikamma National Park Storms River Mouth South Africa

Over breakfast on the balcony I watched dolphins frolic just off shore and one sea otter made an appearance in the distance.

Sunrise at Tsitsikamma National Park Storms River Mouth South Africa

After many days of hectic travel I found myself thoroughly relaxed from the healing energy of the sea.

Services and activities

Swimming pool at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

SANParks offers Several options for accommodations and camping within the park.  The souvenir shop also sells some basic groceries and the restaurant has a varied and not overly expensive menu with seating indoors or out.

There are several more trails I didn’t take including the famous Otter Trail, a five day walk of 26.4 miles (42.5 km), and the Waterfall trail along the first half day of the Otter trail at 3.9 miles (6.4 km) round trip.  But I’ll be back.

27a Tsitsikamma region

Plus many other activities offered in the surrounding area and other parts of Tsitsikamma National Park.  This would make a great vacation destination and I could just hang out around this area for weeks.

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10 June 2013

Colorful cliffs at Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

After a week at Kruger National Park I wanted to visit Golden Gate Highlands National Park next. Joan asked, “Are there animals?” “I suppose, but it’s a geology park.”  Then I watched her eyes roll.

Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Yet after crossing the flatlands of the agricultural Free State we were both excited to see the giant cliffs of red and gold surrounded by the rolling green foothills of the Maluti Mountains.

Mushroom Rock Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

I’d researched Golden Gate Highlands a little and put it on the must see list. Sure glad we made it.

Golden Gate Highlands Naional Park South Africa

The park is known for black wildebeest, eland, blesbok, oribi, springbok and Burchell’s zebra, plus many birds including the rare bearded vulture and the equally rare bald ibis, which breed on the ledges in the sandstone cliffs. But except for a few unidentifiable birds we only saw cows.

View from Blesbok Loop drive Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Not the biggest of South African National Parks at a little over 28,000 acres yet Golden Gate is currently the only proclaimed National Park that protects the grassland biome which is the most neglected biome from the point of view of conservation.

View with arch from Echo Ravine trail Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

There are several trails that bring you right up to the rock and we hiked part of the Echo Ravine trail.

Wildflowers at Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Of course it took quite a while because we both stopped to take numerous photos, of the big and small.

View of waterfall behind Reception from Echo Ravine trail Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Seeing a waterfall from our view on the trail we next walked the short trail behind Reception to check it out.

Waterfall Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

The pool below the waterfall provides a natural swimming pool but it wasn’t quite warm enough for a swim that day.

Langtoon Dam above waterfall from loop drive Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

The Oribi and Blesbok loop drives offer spectacular views across the grasslands and a look at the dam above the waterfall.

Geology of Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

There are 3 main layers of rock eroded over time by rivers and streams. The bottom layer is made up of red mud-like sediment deposited by swampy rivers 200 million years ago. On top of that is yellow sandstone from a 196 million year old desert. This topped off by a basalt layer from volcanic activity from 160-190 million years ago.  The black stripes show were water carrying manganese from the basalt seeps out staining the rocks below.

Mushroom Rock Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

The view from our camp below the towering cliffs showed off the brilliant shades of gold cast by the setting sun which gave Golden Gate Highlands its name. And even though it was summer the night temperatures dropped enough I wished for hat and gloves camping at 7200 feet (2200 m).

Joan in camp Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Little Caledon River behind camp Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Little Caledon River behind camp

We only spent two partial days and although we didn’t really see wildlife I’d like to return and spend more time on the trails.

View from loop drive Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

Activities

· Hiking short nature trails 1-5 hours and a by-reservation 2 day/1 night

· Self-drive game viewing

· Environmental education courses

· Horse riding by reservation

· Guided Basotho Cultural Village experience

Services

· Pub at hotel

· Day use picnic site with ablution and barbeque

· Fuel Station

· Curio Shop

· Restaurant and Coffee Shop

· Conference facilities

Accommodations

· Glen Reenen Rest Camp

Caravan and camping sites in beautiful shaded grounds

Ablution (bathroom with showers), barbecue facilities and scullery (kitchen)

Power points in ablution block and some camp sites

A maximum of 6 persons, one caravan/tent and one vehicle per site

· Rondavels, Longdavels and Guest Cottages with either one double and two single beds or two single and one stack bed, bathroom (shower) and kitchen with basic equipment

View from Echo Ravine trail Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa

“The Free State landscape gladdens my heart, no matter what my mood. When I am here I feel that nothing can shut me in, that my thoughts can roam as far as the horizons.”

– Former State President Nelson Mandela wrote in his autobiography Long Walk to Freedom.

South Africa map where is Golden Gate Highlands National Park

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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