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Tag: hiking

08 February 2017

Meet up in Mesa and hike Silly Mountain

Grown up high school friends met up in Mesa and hiked on Silly Mountain.  Actually we didn’t really know each other while attending high school and decades later became friends on Facebook.  I stayed with Sandee for our 40th high school reunion back in Illinois.  There was going to be a 45th, in Arizona because so many graduates had moved here.  Some of us may have been smarter than others.  But the group was small.  Sandee is here for three months for her health and recreation.  Dan drove from Indiana to visit family then got sick and didn’t join in.  Bob has been in Arizona a long time.  He might be the smartest of the bunch, but that’s a rather scary thought considering I always thought of him as the class clown, and still is.

Truck camper Casino ArizonaPicturesque Camp Casino

Mesa, Tempe, Scottsdale, Apache Junction, it’s all Phoenix to me.  And that means city traffic which I don’t care for.  Plus had to find a place to park the camper, preferably free.  According to the Casino Arizona website I could boondock free for three nights.  This is located on the Salt River Indian Reservation at the edge of the urban sprawl.  After a couple hour drive from the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge I pulled into their lot about 1:30pm.  Security guys on bicycles told me where to park, far east lot, and then checked in.  Another security guy, from New Zealand, first sent me to get a free players card that comes with 2000 points, that equals $4, then noted my ID and gave me a piece of paper to put on the dash.  If I want to stay another night I have to earn 350 points more.  Haven’t used anything yet.  I’m not a gambler.

Sandee came by about 2:30 and we went to lunch, Pita Jungle in nearby Tempe which is near ASU with limited parking.  But we found a parking lot behind the restaurant and next to a Jack in the Box.  Remember that.  Great lunch and we spent a couple hours just chatting away.  And when we came out, no minivan. Gone.  But lots of signs all over the place we somehow hadn’t seen about parking for Jack in the Box only or vehicle will be towed.  Well, that was us.  Vehicle was towed.  And according to the signs could only be retrieved between 8a-5p.  It was 5:15.  We stood there rather in shock.  Even warned others while waiting to hear from Sandee’s landlady who might be able to rescue us.  In fact one guy we told was very rude to us.

Sandee's minivan impounded Tempe ArizonaA car pulled in and we warned him but he told us he was only there to pick someone up, a young woman got in the car and we asked about getting a ride to the Casino and he said he’d be back in 5 minuets.  And he did.  At the same time we saw the tow truck and Sandee talked to the driver who told us we could get her rig back right then, at the tune of $155.  All this time we kept laughing and being silly.  Because what else could we do.  No alcohol at lunch.  Turned out the guy offering a ride is an Uber driver, my first Uber ride, and he took us to the impound lot.  Met the tow truck driver there who had the car we’d warned the rude guy about.  It was kind of an expensive lunch lesson.  And the irony is, Sandee had been hiking the day before and the trailhead lot was full so she parked along the road with about 20 other cars that when she returned had been towed off.  She got kind of lucky that time in that the Sheriff didn’t give her a ticket and she paid the tow truck driver $100 not to tow her car.  This area is brutal.

Sandee & Gaelyn Silly Mountain Mesa ArizonaThe next morning I took Sandee to breakfast in the Casino and applied my 2000 points to the bill.  But in order to stay another night dry camping for free I’d have to gamble and earn 350 points.  Sounds pretty easy right?  Ten minutes and $25 later no points and a 25 cent voucher.  Time to find another place to park.

Saguaros Superstition Mountains Botanical Walk Silly Mountain Park Apache Junction ArizonaSuperstition Mountains

View West Palo Verde trail Silly Mountain Park Apache Junction ArizonaParking lot and beyond

So Sandee leads me to a Walmart in Mesa then we take off to hike on Silly Mountain in an Apache Junction city park.  We started with the botanical walk with labels to help learn the desert plants.  Then up the Palo Verde trail to Superstition Viewpoint and back down the Brittlebush trail for a total of one mile.  Only a little steep and rocky for lowlanders from Illinois.

Gaelyn reflected Thai House Scotsdale ArizonaHonest, my friends were there.  They must be vampires so no reflection.

Then we met Bob for dinner at the Thai House in Scottsdale and laughed for almost two hours straight while reminiscing and catching up.  Oh the stories we could tell.

If it hadn’t been late when we returned to my camper I might have moved.  The “neighborhood” WalMart at McKellips and Lindsay Roads has no signage for “no camping or overnight parking” in its small lot.  Yet I felt sure someone would come knocking at the door, or I’d be towed while still in the camper.  Thus a lousy night’s sleep with just noise and no bothers.  In the morning I did a little shopping and waited for rush hour to pass.

Maricopa Mountains SR283 West Maricopa County ArizonaHad a really great time visiting, and didn’t take many photos, but was glad to pull out of the city/urban noise and traffic and hit the road at 9:30am.  Had to maneuver through 202, 101, and 60 before getting off interstates onto state routes 347 and 283 to Gila Bend and south.  Such a relief to see cactus and mountains while anticipating a quiet desert.

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Arizona, Mesa, Silly Mountain Park boondocking, friends, hiking 7 Comments
06 February 2017

Palm Canyon trail Kofa NWR Arizona

Sunset Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaThe contrasts are striking between desert, palms, and canyon walls along the Palm Canyon trail.  Located in the Kofa Mountains named because the King of Arizona gold mine stamping its property “K of A” in the late 1800s.  The idea of protecting this Sonoran Desert landscape began during the 1960s when conservationist Major Frederick R. Burnham observed that populations of bighorn sheep were sharply declining and appealed to the Boy Scouts to take up the cause.  For two years, more than 10,000 boy Scouts and their leaders campaigned to protect bighorn sheep and finally in 1976 the 665,400 acre Kofa National Wildlife Refuge was established to be managed by the US Fish & Wildlife Service.

Looking up Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaPalm Canyon

A half-mile National Recreation Trail leads into Palm Canyon so all four of us camping together on the Kofa climbed into Sharon’s jeep and drove the two miles to the end of the road to start our hike.  Turns out either of the truck campers could have made the drive on this well graded road, but we weren’t sure until we got there.  I’m sure there are times when after heavy rain the road would be rutted and rough.

View West Dome Rock Mountains from mouth of Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaView west from Palm Canyon trail

At 11am it was still chilly enough, especially in the shaded canyon, to wear a couple layers.  But we weren’t far along before the jacket went around the waist.  The website suggests to allow an hour round trip but us lollygag hikers took over an hour just to get one way.  There was just so much to see.  Plus the sometimes steep and rocky trail required us to watch our feet while walking so we stopped often to look around.

Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaGeology

Millions of years ago the Southwestern United States resembled a broad plain with scattered marshes and streams studded with mountain ranges and erupting volcanoes that covered the marshes with 100s of feet of ash, rocks, cinders, and lava.  Then about 25,000,000 years ago, after a long quiet period, earthquakes and eruptions occurred cracking, splitting, tilting, and lifting the previous formed rock and created today’s Kofa mountains.  Water flowing through cracks in the volcanic rhyolite formed canyons through erosion.

Plants

The current desert ecosystem is characterized by hot summers, mild winters and low annual rainfall of 4-8 inches.  Yet even in this harsh environment plants have adapted.  Looking with binoculars up tiny side canyons to the north, opposite the wash we followed, rewarded us with an amazing variety of plants.

Cactus Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaMost obvious are the tall and stately saguaros, yet these seem not terrible old and all of about the same age as is common with the species.  Closer to the ground, prickly pear, cholla, hedgehog, pincushion and barrel cacti thrive.  All wonderful to see but we were really excited about seeing the California fan palm, the only native species of palm tree in Arizona, and only 100 trees remain.

These could be relics of the ice age when the range of California fan palms was much larger than its isolated groves today gradually spreading into these canyons and other protected niches as the climate warmed to desert conditions.  California fan palms typically live for 80 to 90 years.  A fire burned through the grove in 1953, seriously damaging the trees.  Fortunately, most of the palms survived and young trees have become established.  The survival of these trees is directly dependent on the microclimate in this protected canyon.  The palm trees are only able to live in the narrow side canyons where direct sunshine is limited and moisture is available.

Nolina against sky Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaAs we strained even with binoculars to find the palms we were often fooled by a palm-like plant growing out of cracks and on ledges but the nolinas are much smaller than palms and do not develop a trunk.

Palo Verde along Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI love the twisted and contorted shape of the palo verde.  Its almost neon green branches and twigs have enough chlorophyll to produce all the energy the tree requires and during drought often has no leaves.

California fan palms side canyon Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaCalifornia fan palms side canyon Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

As the sun rose higher interesting shadow shapes moved rapidly across the north canyon walls.

California fan palms side canyon Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaCalifornia fan palms side canyon Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

And the timing was perfect to see sunshine creep into a side canyon and light up the oasis of palms.

Didn’t see the endemic Kofa Mountain Barberry with its holly like leaves which may have been because I was looking for a low growing plant and this is a small bush.  Also don’t think I saw any Ironwood unless it was the thorny trees I called mesquite.

Animals

We also didn’t see the famed desert bighorn sheep.  The only animals we saw were a few birds and lizards flitting about way too fast to positively identify.  Maybe some peak-headed phainopeplas, some kind of hawks soaring in the far distance, turkey vultures, and mostly crows/ravens which seem to survive anywhere.  Saw the scat evidence of coyote and fox.

View West Palm Canyon trail Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaMany animals survive in the desert because they are mostly nocturnal.  But then after the sun went down and the temperature dropped we weren’t particularly nocturnal ourselves.  Quite frankly there are a few species I wouldn’t want to trip over, especially after dark, like the Gila Monster or Western Diamondback.

Late light Kofa Mountains Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaYet no worries while the sun was up about being cold and by the time we returned to camp it was a delightful 73°F.  But that quickly changed just as we finished dinner enjoying the setting sun light up the Kofa Mountains and the desert.

Sunset Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Venus & crescent moon Chocolate Mountains Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaFollowed by a gorgeous sunset and then a crescent moon with Venus, and Mars.

Of the 665,400 acres within Kofa National Wildlife Refuge, 547,700 acres are designated wilderness, making it the second largest wilderness area in Arizona.  While the Palm Canyon Trail is the only designated trail on Kofa, visitors are welcome to hike anywhere on the refuge so long as vehicles remain within 100 feet of the road, do not enter mines, or the area closed for the recovery of Sonoran pronghorn mostly seen in King Valley.  Camping on the refuge is limited to a maximum of 14 days in any 12-month period.  Campfires are permitted with a limited amount of only dead, down and detached wood that can be gathered and I didn’t see any of that so probably want to bring your own firewood.  Also remember that summer temperatures can exceed 120°F.  Seems winter is the time to visit and I would highly recommend that.  Had a great cell and internet signal in camp.

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Arizona, Kofa NWR adaptation, California fan palm, camping, desert, geology, hike, hiking, Kofa National Wildlife Refuge, Palm Canyon trail, plants, Sonoran Desert, wildlife, wildlife refuge 14 Comments
11 April 2016

Dog friendly hiking and camping at Snow Canyon State Park

April 5 & 6, 2016

We were seeking a nearby new adventure so went hiking and camping at Snow Canyon State Park in St. George only 72 miles (116 km) from home.  Actually Bill had been there before, but new to me and I love being surrounded by the striking contrast of Halloween colors in southern Utah.

Snow Canyon State Park Utah

Located about 11 miles (17.7 km) north of St. George off UT18, Snow Canyon’s  7,400 acres is part of the 62,000-acre Red Cliffs Desert Reserve protecting desert tortoise and its habitat.  The state park offers 38 miles (61 km) of hiking trails (only some dog friendly), a 3-mile (4.8 km) paved walking/biking trail, technical climbing and more than 15 miles (24 km) of equestrian trails.  All but four of the 29 campsites up to 40 foot pull-through typically require reservations.  Some sites have water and electric (30 amp).  There are also two group-site areas and restrooms with showers.

Truck camper in camp #21 Snow Canyon State Park Utah

Alcove by camp Snow Canyon State Park UtahWe mistakenly entered from the south following Snow Canyon Road through the subdivisions and several roundabouts, which I don’t care for.  Fortunately we got a first come first serve camp site for two nights (up to 14 days available) that was way sweeter and more private than the reserved with hookups.  A couple squirrels greeted us then scurried off and were not seen again.  Paved and almost level, site #21 would be too narrow for slides but there were other sites that would work.  Picnic table, BBQ, and fire pit, plus nice sandy alcove next to the carved redrock for a tent where we sat in the afternoon shade.

Rock camp & houses from Whiptail Trail Snow Canyon State Park Utah

After setting up camp we walked to one of the two dog friendly trails.  The Whiptail Trail is a paved 6-miles (9.6 km) round trip, considered easy and accessible, and is open for biking.  It pretty much parallels the park road.  We could easily see the campground and how close the urban reality encroaches on the park’s boundary on the cliffs above.

View South Whiptail Trail Snow Canyon State Park Utah

Where we joined the trail the crowded sand dunes were to the south so we opted for north.

Sandstone view along Whiptail Trail Snow Canyon State Park Utah

This took us within sight of the “petrified dunes” from an ancient sea of sand cemented into burnt-orange to creamy-white Navajo sandstone.

Sandstone view along Whiptail Trail Snow Canyon State Park UtahDidn’t go all that far before turning around.  Although the mid-day sun felt delightful the pavement was a bit warm for doggy feet.  The moderate walking was good for my knee but didn’t want to push it climbing these compelling rocks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looking up from camp shade Snow Canyon State Park UtahI would have liked to explore some of the carved holes but they appeared to be occupied.  Besides rock climbing is not allowed on the rocks behind the campground.

Spider webs in rock hole above camp Snow Canyon State Park Utah

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sharpening grooves near camp Snow Canyon State Park UtahSo instead we set up chairs in the shady alcove speculating whether what appeared to be sharpening marks were left by the Ancestral Puebloans who inhabited the region from A.D. 200 to 1250 for hunting and gathering.

 

 

 

West Canyon Road Snow Canyon State Park Utah

The next morning we woke up to the Chi-ca-go sound of Quail in camp.  I just love to watch their little bobble heads.  After a quick breakfast we drove down the road about a mile to park by another part of the Whiptail Trail that joined the other dog friendly, and biking, trail.  The West Canyon Road follows a gravel and sand maintenance road 4 miles (6.4 km) each way to the head of Snow Canyon.

West Canyon Road Snow Canyon State Park Utah

The rock beckons to be climbed and Snow Canyon is known locally to climbers.  However the technical climbing routes off West Canyon are closed from February 1st through June 1st to protect falcon nesting sites.  I heard a falcon and saw it soaring too far off for photos.

West Canyon Road Snow Canyon State Park Utah

Some trails lead over the slick rock where scrambling and moderate rock climbing is permitted in designated areas only.

West Canyon Road Snow Canyon State Park Utah

Many side trails lead up, into, and over the marvelous rock and across sandy washes.  Unfortunately, although many of these trails are horse friendly they don’t allow dogs.  Presumably dogs can spook horses.  I was spooked by bikers.  No offense to bikers, but I’m not fond of multiple use trails.

West Canyon Road Snow Canyon State Park Utah

West Canyon Road Snow Canyon State Park Utah

Lava rock Whiptail Trail Snow Canyon State Park UtahWhat is really amazing here is the contrast of black lava that flowed from nearby cinder cones about 1.4 million years ago and as recently as 27,000 years ago.  The once water carved sandstone canyons were filled with basalt which redirected the flow of water and eventually carved the canyons seen today.  Lava-capped ridges were once canyon bottoms.

 

Wildflowers Snow Canyon State Park Utah

Goldenbush, Prickly Pear cactus, Manzanita, Desert Marigold, Penstemon, Primrose, Fragrant Beauty

Wildflowers didn’t carpet the land but were scattered around in the sparse and fragile desert environment.

West Canyon Road Snow Canyon State Park Utah

Sand West Canyon Road Snow Canyon State Park UtahWe walked a couple miles, past two huge water tanks believed to be for the city of St. George because we saw a city truck on the gravel road.  Then stopped at a small building with power and a swamp cooler that might house a well pump.

 

 

View South West Canyon Road Snow Canyon State Park Utah

Found some nearby shade and sat enjoying the view for a while before turning back.  A perfect morning hike with Sasha making friends along the way.

SR18 North St George Utah

We went into town after our hike and had lunch at the Pizza Factory plus picked up groceries for dinner.  Then drove back in on UT18, a much prettier route without the walled subdivisions.

Visitor Center Snow Canyon State Park Utah

We returned to camp and went into the Visitor Center where I asked about their Junior Ranger program.  The first day when we checked in the volunteer lady was so nice.  The second day not so much when a different lady said their Junior Ranger program was ONLY for children.  So instead of adding a badge to my growing collection I settled with another hat pin for the curtain.

 Jake California Kingsnake Visitor Center Snow Canyon State Park UtahAlso met Jake the California kingsnake who was rescued after being hit by a car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rock face in camp shade Snow Canyon State Park UtahWe spent the rest of the afternoon in our shady alcove looking for faces in the rocks.  And the next day we took care of shopping chores in St. George before heading back home.

With so many more trails to explore Snow Canyon deserves many revisits.

 

 

 

 

 

West Canyon Road Snow Canyon State Park Utah

Nice to be able to visit this nearby park when the spring temperatures were perfect, high 70s and low 50s because summer will bring on the HOT of 100+.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

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