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Tag: hiking

06 August 2020

Living in the NOW

Sierra cat on rocking chair in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI really try living in the NOW even though I enjoy memories and planning for the future.  With the recent state of COVID affairs, the future is so unreadable.  So I’m working on one day at a time which includes work and limited play.

Last week on a day off I was home working on the computer.  Everything seemed slow, barely a signal to get online, every program opened “not responding” for way too long.  I was frustrated with waiting.  During mid-day many visitors are online.  Living in the NOW was not so nice.

Rangers pointing at me VC plaza Bryce Canyon National Park UtahCelebrated World Ranger Day July 31st.  All Rangers deserve recognition for taking care of visitors everyday through a pandemic.  My supervisor has worked his bum off making Bryce Canyon National Park Rangers available to the public.  Thank goodness we don’t only staff the information tables outside the visitor center.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter a hoodoo geology program I hung out near Sunset Point.  That day, dramatic clouds provided intermittent shade for perfect hiking and taking photographs from the rim of the main amphitheater.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNo rain hit the ground.

hoodoos valley Table Cliff shadows clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day the clouds thinned out and the temperature rose.  I was a little cooked after four hours roving along the 8000 foot rim at 88°F.

red Paintbrush flowers in Manzanita bush Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA good time to stop in shade and take a photo.

light shadow hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAt one point, a visitor asked where is my favorite special place and when I told him, wherever I am, he couldn’t believe it.  “Like I would love the dump”, where I never go.  I told him “I try living in the now, as much as possible.”  He just couldn’t understand.

Ravens on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Ravens on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMy now is frequently in the comfort of my own home—either RV—or outside in a lovely natural environment.  I kind of plan it that way.

Yovimpa Point from Bristlecone Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLooking at Yovimpa Point from the Bristlecone Trail

Sunday, Ranger Julie and I went to Rainbow Point at the end of the scenic road, another hot day of 90°F at 9100 feet in elevation.  After setting up some tables with props and “Please do not touch” signs I left Julie to present the first Grand Staircase geology talks of the afternoon.

trees Pink Cliffs clouds Bristlecone Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI sauntered 1 1/2 hours roving almost one mile of the Bristlecone Loop Trail.

Southeast view Paria River canyon Rock Springs bench Hackberry canyon 50 Mile & Navajo Mt Bristlecone Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFrom Bristlecone point I enjoyed a long distance view southeast putting more of the surrounding geography in perspective while trying to figure out what I saw.  Navajo Mountain bulges almost 10,000 feet on the horizon about 90 miles away.  Later with good NatGeo maps and some online help I determined to the left of Navajo Mt lies the Kaiparowits Plateau and the right Echo Cliffs.  Mid-ground starts with the upper Paria Canyon, with Rock Springs Bench next, followed by the Hackberry Canyon, and a rather unrecognizable flatland beyond which is actually multiple benches and canyons.

trees burn piles Bristlecone Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI chatted with folks about fire ecology.  A section of the trail borders a backburn from 2018 when lightning strikes started the Lonely Fire in late August and early September the Riggs Fire.  They burned together outside the park and started to approach Rainbow Point in the park.  Suppressing fires for over 100 years didn’t do forests any favors.  Now people try to clean up the unnatural amount of dead fuels and even thin some trees in an effort to restore forest health.

Bryce Canyon Junior Ranger book coverAt a forest gazebo along the trail, I met a family and was interviewed by their soon to be Bryce Canyon Junior Ranger.  The Questions from their Junior Ranger Book and my answers follow:

“Which was the first national park you ever visited? When did you visit?”  1974, Rocky Mountain National Park.

“What do you remember about that experience?”   I thought I’d live there someday.  It just hasn’t happened, yet.

“What do national parks mean to you?”  Special places for special people, that’s everyone.

“Of all the national parks you’ve visited, which was the most special to you? Why?”  Whichever one I’m at, as a Ranger or visitor.  Because I try living in the NOW.

Ground squirrel begging Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter returning to Yovimpa Point it was my turn to talk geology while Julie roved.  After several hot hours with multiple small groups I briefly had the overlook to myself.  I sat down in the shade with a dark chocolate fig brownie and water.  Before long, a family arrived, walked to the safety fence, and a kid tells me a squirrel is eating my food.  No, I’m eating my food.  Except I forgot about the Oreos in my fanny pack, that I also forgot to zip shut.  My newest friend.

Navajo Trail trees hoodoos clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahEven though I was tired from the long afternoon, I went out for the full moon rise as it was only ten minutes before sunset making it easier to photograph without using a tripod.  Walked down the Two Bridges side of the Navajo Loop Trail about five switchbacks, just below what I call the Mask.  (For its shape and nothing to do with COVID.)

hoodoo moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utahhoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Took some shots of the last light before the moon rose a little further south than expected through a smoky haze so not visible until about 15° above the horizon.  I moved up and down trail 30-40 feet catching it between several different hoodoos.

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe camera kept going auto on the ISO and I couldn’t figure out why.  After every shot I’d have to try to put the ISO back where I wanted it, on manual.

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I figured out the problem is the touch screen, that is now turned off.  I look through the eye viewfinder with my left (and better) eye and my nose touched the screen.  The camera’s choice was up like 25,000 and exceedingly grainy.

I woke the next morning feeling exhausted after almost seven hours of sleep.  Even after coffee and breakfast I couldn’t do another day at Rainbow Point so called in sick and went back to bed for another four hours of blissful sleep.  Don’t think I messed up the schedule too bad as Paula had help opening then went to Rainbow alone.  I might have overdone the day before getting over heated and dehydrated.

Intern Ben at evening program Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBy afternoon I felt recovered and the next day shared a late schedule with our intern Ben.  It’s his last week here so I gave up my evening program for his presentation about the science of life in the universe.  Really glad I had to open locks for setting up the slide projector and be there for this excellent program, not about aliens.  Afterwards, most of the staff, all wearing masks, joined together in the employee parking lot to look at the sky with our Vogon telescopes.  (Not open to the public.)  The only time we’ve had them out all season.  We are all going to miss the two astronomy interns who soon return to online school.

rock hammer agate rock Agate Hill Dixie National Forest UtahSo, although I was up late on my Friday, the next day I went rock-hounding with April.  Being both our days off, my first her last, we didn’t start our adventure until 10am.  Besides we weren’t going too far away either.  And unlike my last drive-by, we had no problem finding Agate Hill.  Good idea to go rock-hounding with a geologist.

collection various agates from Agate HillOf course we gathered way too much rock even though under the allowed 25 pounds plus one for each person.  So many gorgeous colors: yellows, oranges, reds, black, root beer brown, and white.

Southwest view trees valley Agate Hill Dixie National Forest UtahI was so busy looking down at the rock that I failed to take many photos of the lovely landscape which included the eastern cliffs of Red Canyon as well as the Sevier River valley to the west.  After a couple hours we went to The Big Fish in Panguitch for lunch and quick stop at the market, plus a long wait for April’s ice cream cone at the tourist trap in Bryce Canyon City.  A wonderful day living in the NOW.

I respect that 2020’s NOW certainly isn’t always the best for many reasons.  But for my own sanity, I have to try living in the NOW at least some of each day to find the good and beauty.  What NOW are you happiest in?

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Bryce Canyon National Park, COVID-19, Park Ranger, Utah hiking, Park Ranger, play, ranger programs, rockhound, work 18 Comments
17 April 2017

Lava and flowers at Mojave Trails National Monument Amboy Crater

March 28-29, 2017

sunflowers Amboy Crater Mojave Trails National Monument BLM CaliforniaThe Southwest spring wind blew me from one lava flow at Fossil Falls to another at Amboy Crater in Mojave Trails National Monument.  Although I’d driven in the area before this was my first actual visit to one of our newest national monuments thanks to President Obama.  But there was no way I had time to visit the entire 2,500 square miles so I chose the easy to access Amboy Crater and hoped for flowers.

Started with a nice tail wind south on US395 but then the darn road turned eastward and the camper really caught it on the side.  Carpets of pepper-grass blanketing the ground between scrub reminded me of the 70s when I decorated my bedroom in harvest gold and avocado green.  BLM signs for places called Spangler Hills and Trona Pinnnacles beckoned for future explorations.

Towns—if you can call the crumbling remains of buildings that time forgot—barely slowed down for.  Red Canyon, Johannesburg, and Randsburg made me wonder if I’d switched countries to South Africa.  At one time mining occurred in these parts and this was a major route.  Now it is littered with living ghost towns and only a few hold outs.

yellow flowers radar US395 South Boron CaliforniaAs I drove along a huge golf ball-shape stood out on a hillside and I whizzed past a stone entrance sign covered with wood.  Strange things occur in the remote desert so I did some homework later.  Not far from Kramer Junction (US395 & SR58) the ball-shape turns out to be a radar antennae operated by the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) but originally built by the US Military as part of an air defense network that provided detection and early warning of non-friendly (enemy) aircraft.  The original Boron Air Force Station was converted to the Boron Federal Prison in 1978 as a minimum security prison meant for white collar non-violent offenders.  Closed in 2000, the facility sits abandoned and falling apart with the assistance of vandals.

Stopped in Barstow for supplies and when coming out of the store noticed something hanging down from under the back end of the camper.  Thank goodness it wasn’t a holding tank but a protective plastic cover with about half the 100 screws in it pulled out.  Now what did I bump?  Crawled underneath to assess the situation and decided to bungee it up rather than take it off and not have a place to put it.  I’m talking a slightly flexible, 4×8, molded chunk of plastic.  All I could do to hold it up with my head while stretching the bungees.  No photos.

Route 66 parallel to I40 East CaliforniaFinally headed east on I40 and looked longingly at the Mother Road, Route 66, running parallel to the go-fast freeway.  I like to lollygag along the old “blue line” highways and saw several tempting exits yet continued to Ludlow before cruising the crumbling, deteriorating, and mega-patched pavement from the past called the National Trails Highway.

I could have pulled off on a dirt two-track anywhere on the BLM but I really didn’t want to do a whole lot of bouncing with this bungee thing going on.

sunset Amboy Crater Mojave Trails National Monument BLM CaliforniaAnd finally, late afternoon, I drove to the end of the newly paved .5 mile road at Amboy Crater then turned back half way to an empty paved lot for the night.  There were a couple RVs in the end lot and I was joined by two others.  Sore and tired I watched the sunset.

sunset Mojave Trails National Monument BLM CaliforniaExcept for the incessant wind and many trains, it was a quiet night.  Fridge wouldn’t light and I don’t get that because it was downside from the wind and plenty of propane.  The stove worked.  This has happened a few times before.  I ate the last of the ice cream.  A sure sign to head home soon.

Amboy Crater trail Mojave Trails National Monument BLM CaliforniaWith barely any wind the fridge lit in the morning and I went back down to the trail head parking.  A 1.5 mile trail leads to the west and open side of the cinder cone, then an 80 foot incline and additional .5 mile rim walk.  Which I guess is not really at the top rim of the 250-foot high cinder cone.

Desert iguana & chuckwalla Amboy Crater trail Mojave Trails National Monument BLM CaliforniaBeing I still had a long drive ahead of me to get back to Arizona that day I just wandered around the lava a bit looking at the pretty flowers and being startled by the skittering lizards.  These two measured over a foot long.

Sunflowers Amboy Crater Mojave Trails National Monument BLM CaliforniaAmboy Crater stands alone in the desert and is a dominant landmark seen for many miles.  A rather young cinder cone last erupting about 10,000 years ago.  It breached on one side and lava flowed for 24 square miles.

wildflower collage Amboy Crater trail National Monument BLM CaliforniaDue to the cone’s youth and lack of mature soil, plant life is limited.  Yet I still found flowers in some pockets of sand captured within the lava flow.

Mojave Trails National Monument at 1.6 million acres is the second largest desert preserve in the world—Namib-Naukluft National Park in Namibia is larger—and creates wildlife corridor link with Joshua Tree National Park, Mojave National Preserve and several wilderness areas.  The monument’s diverse features include lava fields and cinder cones at Amboy Crater, primitive 4×4 camping at a desert wetland at the Bonanza Spring Watchable Wildlife Area, rock-hounding at the Chambless and Trilobite Mountain sites, and sand dunes in the Cadiz Wilderness.

Route 66 on road Amboy CaliforniaPlus there’s a long stretch of Route 66 which I’d hoped to drive more of to the east when I left but knew the road was closed (and will be until mid-September) just beyond Amboy at the Kelbaker Road north back to I40.  So there I was standing on the side of the road along Route 66 just before the road block and two different vehicles stopped to ask me directions like I would know.  One how to get to Cadiz the other to I40.  And I did know, because I read a map and do my homework.

Colorado River I40 CA-AZ borderYet even planning isn’t often enough.  Google told me four hours to home.  What does Google know about my slow rate of pace.  Even though once I crossed the Colorado River into Arizona it felt like home I had miles yet to go.

wildflowers US93 South ArizonaUS93 South

Dazzos Chicago Style Eatery US93 Wikeup ArizonaFour hours turned into seven because of all the stops I just had to make for flowers, fuel, and to pick up dinner for Berta and I at Dazzos Chicago Style Eatery in Wikeup, Arizona US93 for their world famous Italian Beef sandwich. (BTW there’s an RV Park there too.)

wildflowers SR89 North ArizonaSR89 North Yarnell Hill

Then because it was late I parked in Berta’s drive for the night after we enjoyed a couple hours of catching up.  Much easier than getting home late and wanting to unpack at least the necessities.  So I returned home four weeks and a day after leaving for Valley of Fire.  Been living with wind for almost two weeks and it seems to have followed me home.  Hello Spring in the Southwest.    Ah….chooooooo!

Know before you Go

Carry a paper map in case you have no signal.  Check the monument’s website and road conditions/closures.  Be aware of weather conditions as summer temperatures exceed 110°F and winter nights drop to 36°F.  Heavy rain during summer monsoon can make roads impassible.  Carry, and drink plenty of water.  Fuel up your vehicle because it’s a long ways between services.  Watch for snakes, spiders, and scorpions.  This is a leave no trace landscape so pack it in, pack it out.  Because the US Armed Forces has and still does use the desert for bombing ranges there may be unexploded devices.  Need I say leave them alone.  People have also reported feeling the ground vibrate during “war games” within the nearby military base.

Mojave Trails National Monument map g-2

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12 April 2017

Flowers at Fossil Falls

March 23-28, 2017

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaThere are no fossils, or currently any waterfalls either at Fossil Falls, but there were flowers growing in cracks and crevices of jagged basalt carved smooth by the ancient flow of water.

After two weeks exploring around Lone Pine California—Alabama Hills, Manzanar, and Tuttle Creek—it looked like a little break in the wind and I figured it was time to start the journey home.  But of course with some stops along the way.  Thanks to Jeff for recommending Fossil Falls.

Red Hill US395 South Fossil Falls BLM CaliforniaOnly a 40 mile drive south on US395 I watched carefully for Cinder Road just south of the prominent Red Hill.  Along the way I stopped in don’t blink you’ll miss it Olanche for much needed propane.  Ouch, $4.99/gallon hurt the budget, especially after a museum visit and staying at Boulder Creek RV Resort the night before.  Time for a cheap rich connection with nature.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake California

water carved basalt Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaSigns directed me down a good gravel road a short way to the turn off for both day use parking and a campground.  A 1/2 mile easy trail lead deceptively over low ridges of porous yet smooth basalt.  And suddenly, a 40 foot drop reveals this fossil of a waterfall.  The scene is vast and difficult to put into perspective.  The seemingly jumbled and carved rock like a pile of discarded sculptures was overwhelming and hard to separate.

unidentified flowers Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaPlus I was totally distracted by the brilliant dots of color with flowers scattered around.  The dark lava rock made a nice backdrop yet the wind made it difficult to photograph.

I didn’t stay too long as the falls canyon was looking straight into the lowering sun and I wanted to find my campsite for the night.  Nice to know I could return in the morning.

(All unidentified)

 

lava flow Coso Mountains Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaThe primitive campground offers a hand-operated water pump that others reported was a slow pain, and a pit-toilet.  The dirt road has lava tire bitters to avoid.  Each of the maybe dozen campsites had a table, fire ring, and grill.  Only a few sites would accommodate large vehicles.  I never saw the “pay station” for the BLM $6/night fee.  Wasn’t overly worried about it for a planned one night stay at $3 with my Senior Pass.

unidentified yellow flower Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaI had every intention of getting out, relatively, early for some morning light.  Instead Berta and discussed the troubles with our world.  Yet timing turned out right when I met and chatted with two ladies coming off the Fossil Falls trail.  Carolyn is a blogger and instagramer from BC, Canada and was traveling home in her RV with her friend  Christine caravaning behind her.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaI spent about two hours roaming around on this course and sculpted landscape beyond the first falls.  Between 400,000 and 10,000 years ago basaltic lava flowed from the Coso volcanic range east of the Owens Valley.  While the area is an arid desert now, water once flowed from Owens Lake to the north through the narrow valley creating an interconnected system of lakes that are now dry basins.  In addition to lava flows and river systems, the Owens Valley was once covered with glaciers.  The falls were formed when the river was forced to divert its course over a basalt flow, polishing and reshaping the rock.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake California

pothole selfie Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake Californiapothole Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake California

Although it’s possible to crawl down into the ancient flow I chose to stay on top inspecting potholes made by rocks caught in an ancient eddy that drilled these almost perfectly circular holes.

Desert Hyacinth Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaDesert Hyacinth

Sediments settled in some of these carved rocks creating micro environments like a pot filled with flowers.  And these attracted butterflies, some pairs dancing on air, that were way quicker than I am with the camera.  I found it interesting to note that frequently the color of the butterfly matched the flowers they landed on.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaI tried to imagine the flow of water, listening for its song as it dropped and swirled to create this smooth yet chaotic rock fissure.

Red Hill Little Lake Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake California

Sunset clouds Fossil Falls Little Lake California

dry lake bed Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaThis place deserved more than one day of exploration but with a weekend coming I headed out about another mile past the appropriately named “Little Lake” and camped on a dry lake bed.  The dry cracked mud looked like cobblestones but I wouldn’t want to drive on them when slippery wet.

 

 

SUV dust Coso lava field Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaUnfortunately the wind kicked up the following day yet I was content to stay inside with a good signal working on posts and enjoying the shadow speckled Coso Mountains beyond the long stretch of valley.  Plus entertained by the occasional SUV driver fantasizing a race across the Bonneville salt flats dry lake bed and leaving a legendary trail of dust lingering behind.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaMy birthday started late that night and well into the next morning with wishes from different time zones, the other side of the world in some cases.  I love social media for the friendships and conversations with friends around the world.  Depending on how late you stay up or get up.

Yellow pepper-grass Sierras Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaYellow pepper-grass

Rattlesnake weed, Purple Owl's clover, unidentified & Phacelia Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaI eventually went for about a three hour stroll through the wildflowers and around some interesting shaped lava with the southern Sierras as a backdrop.  Many of the flowers at Fossil Falls are tiny—from the head of a pin to a pea-size and no more than a quarter—growing in the shade of lava rocks.  True survivors.  Scattered, hiding, but there.  I respect the desert blooms for not being too big and showy as they struggle to flower at all.

Rattlesnake weed, Purple Owl’s clover, unidentified & Phacelia

Lupine Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaLupine, called Bluebonnet in Texas, seems to grow in many environments.  I’ve seen it stunted to no more than four inches tall on rocky tundra and up to two feet in meadows, plus every height in between.  These weren’t more than 10 inches.

rabbit Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaSparks of sunshine reflected off numerous chips of shinny obsidian left behind by the First People indicating they knapped arrow heads here.  Might have been good hunting.  I saw a couple of jackrabbits the size of a large lap dog.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaThat night the wind rocked me and with predicted N/NW gusts of 55mph I moved first thing in the morning into a little more sheltered area in the campground.  The low walls of lava buffered it a bit and was certainly better than the dusty dry lake bed.

butterfly dry lake bed Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaWith the camper still rocking I didn’t poke my nose out all day.  Thank goodness for a strong signal.  But I’m done with it.  I would roll the next day wherever the wind blew me.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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1. Prioritize the well-being of nature over photography. 2. Educate yourself about the places you photograph. 3. Reflect on the possible impact of your actions. 4. Use discretion if sharing locations. 5. Know and follow rules and regulations. 6. Always follow Leave No Trace principles and strive to leave places better than you found them. 7. Actively promote and educate others about these principles

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