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Tag: hike

09 December 2015

Hike in a nameless canyon

It’s been cold, I’ve been dealing with a leaky hot water tank, Bill’s been organizing maps and papers.  Oh how we both needed to get out for a hike.  Tuesday’s high of 60F seemed just perfect for a hike in a nameless canyon.  So we headed off to Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.

Paria River with ice Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahWe’ve hiked here before but during August heat so didn’t get far before I found a nice shady Juniper where we sat for lunch chatting for hours.  This time I moved along a little faster with just a nip in the morning air but thankfully no wind.  Yet I did see a little ice along the Paria River.

Sasha side canyon Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahEven with cooler temperatures Sasha searches for shade while we soak up the sun’s thermals.

Bill & Sasha Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahAny easy walk in a dry wash that shows evidence of powerful water.  Rolling sandstone, towering cliffs and eroded battlements line the way.  (Remember this spot and note the juniper tree on the high right bank.)

Rock on sand bench Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahSmall rocks mimic the big.  This about 4 inches tall.  Hey I like rocks.

Sandstone cliff & dead juniper Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahI am also attracted to the sculptural shapes of the dead junipers.  They live so long and grow so slow.

Side canyon Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahSide canyons off this side canyon beckon to be explored.  But they don’t go far and end abruptly.  The power of water is so impressive, carving rock and revealing geologic time.  I would love to watch the waters flow from a safe place up high.

Spillway Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahThe canyon ends for us today with a huge overhanging spillway in a wide arc.  The ledge at least 20 feet above.

Icicles Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahIt may be dry right now but in the shade hangs evidence of at least some recent flow, and cold nights.

Spillway Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahThe next level looks intriguing but a bit difficult to access especially for a dog.  Besides we want to explore another side canyon we passed so turn around and head back down.

Side canyon Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahWhich always provides a different view.

Juniper & roots side canyon Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahSo on the way back, where you’re suppose to remember the third photo above, I noticed these heavy roots growing out of the rock and reaching for at least a potential for water.  That juniper has got to be at least 20 feet above the wash on a bench.

 Juniper roots & plunge pool side canyon Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahI marvel at the tenacity of life in this arid land.

Bill in side canyon Whitehouse Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahWhere we hit another dead end provided a marvelous rock bench to sit and have lunch.  And I didn’t take any photos of that.  Oh well, sometimes I need to just absorb and enjoy the beauty and the company.

Almost back to the truck we saw three hikers with a dog.  At least one of them is from Kanab.  Sasha and their 10 year old male dog had great fun chasing each other around on the sandy wash.  If the nice weather holds we’re planning another hike on Thursday.  Tomorrow, the camper goes back on the truck!

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Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, National Parks and Monuments, Utah hike 16 Comments
14 September 2015

The Wave and so much more wilderness

Many people make a big deal about going to see The Wave, struggling to get one of the 20 daily permits.  Yet Coyote Buttes North in the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness is so much more than just the “feature” as Bill calls it.

Approaching The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaAfter the 3.7 mile hike from Wire Pass Trailhead through dry wash, sand and over contoured slick rock we approached The Wave with its sinuous lines of sandstone, like many others we’ve passed.

View N from The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaLooking back I could barely believe we made it.  But we’re really not there yet.

Water pool below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona

Water pool below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaWe had yet to walk around the water and look at the feature and beyond.

Banded colored sandstone Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaHow to describe The Wave?  Bands of mineral colors flow over the sandstone mounds worn by eons of water and wind.  Nature’s art at its best.  But why is it all about The Wave?  Everywhere I looked there was so much beauty.

Bill by pool below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaBill first visited the as yet unnamed Wave in 1977, a year after starting his position with BLM (Bureau of Land Management) in Kanab, Utah.  This feature was known to only the few people who lived relatively nearby.  He visited the landscape a number of times.  During the wilderness inventory three years later in Utah, Coyote Buttes North was included due to wilderness character.  Later, while National Geographic put together the book Our Threatened Inheritance they sent a photographer with BLM employees who took them over Davis Pass to the feature, during the winter, under a promise of not disclosing the location of the area.  Yet when the story and photo proofs came out it was labeled “Coyote Buttes” and under insistence from BLM the name was dropped and the location was only alluded to.   The Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness was established in 1984 and a plan was created to allow only two groups of four into the feature daily.

Tadpoles Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaWe’d been told not to disturb the pools to protect rare desert species.  Who’d have thought we’d see tadpoles the size of golf balls.

The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaSo we skirted around the water climbing on the rock and just around the corner, there it was, The Wave.  We climbed to the top for the better view looking down.  Other hikers were polite about taking photos and then staying out of each others views.

Gaelyn above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaThree young German visitors had hiked past us on the way in and we saw them again when we arrived along with three others sitting in the little bit of shade offered by a sandstone wall near the pool.  We took our turn and I posed at the top ready to surf down The Wave.

The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaA last look before climbing higher up to have lunch in the shade of a giant sandstone boulder.  Must have been close to 100F (38C).

Water pool above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaThat pool of water looked mighty inviting.

Sandstone mound above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona Bill had concerns about the site being over visited.  Motivated by a proposal to increase fees he became a volunteer so he could access and report any possible problems.  It’s not so much the feature as the surrounding area and it’s difficult to impossible to visit because only 20 permits are issued per day.  He was curious about how the site was withstanding a steady visitation even if it’s limited, if impacts and changes were occurring.  Of course, for safety purposes I went with him.

Bill below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaExcept for some of the signage going in and footprints on sandy areas he didn’t notice any visible damage.  We picked up only three pieces of micro-trash.  People seem aware and respect the landscape.  He was pleasantly surprised and had thought it would have been more impacted.

View west above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaWilderness is suppose to provide opportunities for primitive and unconfined recreation with solitude and a connectedness to the landscape which could be negatively impacted by over visitation.  How many of us truly get a chance to experience wilderness?

Top Rock above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona

On top of The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaAnd this wilderness is vast, covering 112,500 acres with so much space we should be able to immerse ourselves and never see another person.  Unfortunately this feature has been heavily promoted and focuses people to just one small piece of this hugely delicious pie.

Bill & Gaelyn's feet Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaIn fact pie would have tasted extra good for lunch but instead we settled with PBJ on flat bread, chips and olives along with copious amounts of water in a sliver of shade leaning on a huge sandstone formation.

View west above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona

We had planned to explore beyond the feature but instead sat and absorbed the 360 degree views.  Until the shade disappeared and we could really feel the heat.  That’s when I couldn’t resist the water and soaked my shirt before heading back to the feature and the return hike.  We were both very careful not to disturb any creatures.

The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona

The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaI’ll bet land-forms every bit as intriguing as The Wave exist in this vastly unique sandstone terrain.  Yet with no camping in the Coyote Buttes Wilderness I’d have to be a faster hiker to journey much further.

Bill by pool below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaBill made the walk around the pool look easy but I struggled a bit.  That sandstone is more slippery than it looks.

Pool below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaThe pools of water look just as foreign to the land today as they would have millions of years ago when these rocks were sand dunes.

View south from The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaThe return walk went a little quicker.

Pools Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahBill spotted two shallow pools of water to re-soak our shirts and they were dry in about 10 minutes.

Swirling sandstone Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahEven though I’d paid close attention looking behind me on the hike in I saw the landscape with different eyes on the way back.  The map with photos showed landmarks for the return that were easy to spot and although I led the way in Bill lead the way out.

Bill on trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahLeft the trailhead at 8:30am, arrived at The Wave at 11:45, after lunch, and of course more photos, left at 2pm and got back to the truck at 5.

I have to agree with Bill, the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness is so much more than just The Wave.  Every step along the trail brought new wonders of rock and far views.  And we barely scratched the surface of what this wilderness landscape has to offer.

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Arizona Coyote Buttes North, hike, hiking, Northern Arizona, red rock, southern Utah, The Wave 28 Comments
12 January 2015

Hike to Palm Canyon Anza-Borrego

The gift of water brings life and death to the desert which is evident along the hike to Palm Canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.  The average rainfall here is 6 inches and the recent snowfall only happens about every 10 years said Nancy who’s lived and hiked in the San Diego area over 30 years.

Sunrise Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaNo rush Thursday as I watched the sunrise but I had chores, dump and fill holding tanks, after three weeks of boondocking, at the Palm Canyon campground in Anza-Borrego State Park.  The day use fee of $7 meant I could stay in the area for the day so I decided to hike Palm Canyon where the creation of the park began in the 1930s with the protection of this palm-filled canyon.  Palm canyon cuts through the San Ysidro Mountains just west of Borrego Springs.

Palm Canyon trail head Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

Rocky steps Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

CCC built shelter Borrego Palm Canyon campground Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThe trail is pretty easy mostly walking in a wash with not too soft of sand, some minor steps up rocks moved here by water and some likely placed by the CCC during the 1930s.   There are also some stone structures in the campground they built.

Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThis obviously well maintained trail is marked with stone and wood plus numbered poles corresponding with information in the trail guide.

Palm trunks in wash Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaHowever I wouldn’t want to walk this wash trail after heavy rain, especially during July and August monsoon.  The power of water is quite evident having brought death to weak and old trees during a raging flood that ripped shallow roots from a tenacious hold leaving scattered palm trunks behind.

Tilted & varnished rock Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

Desert varnish Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThe mountains of rock that tower above the canyon show how geologic forces have tipped and eroded the ancient metamorphic layers into sharp fins.  The desert varnish is actually a thin coating of microscopic bacteria colonies that take on a blackish or reddish color by absorbing manganese and iron from the atmosphere.  Giant boulders from above eventually break loose to bounce and roll into the wash where water smooths and moves them down stream like rearranging nature’s furniture.

Dead ocotillo leaves Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaFor being a desert the plant life looks healthy, abundant and diverse.  Of course there is always a lot of creosote bushes, some even showing their tiny yellow flowers and fluffs of seed pod.  The amazing ocotillos with fountain like stalks showed leaves that burst out within 24 hours of rain, be full grown in 5 days and then after a month of dry weather the leaves drop until the next life giving water falls.

Beavertail cactus, unknown & desert lavender bush Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

Desert willow Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaObserve the beavertail cactus and cholla from a distance as they bite.  The desert lavender bush a buzz with bees.  A desert willow which sometimes sends roots 60 feet into the rocky earth in search of water.  Sadly, mistletoe growing in some kind of mesquite.  A bush I do not know with sparse, red tubular flowers that attract hummingbirds to quick for my shutter.

Palm grove Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI saw several lizards scoot under rocks and numerous mounds built by the industrious harvester ants.  I didn’t see coyote or mountain lion and it was thankfully too cool for tarantulas, scorpions or snakes.  I really wanted to see the endangered Bighorn Sheep protected in the park and several hikers returning down the trail told me to look up high on the mountainous canyon walls to the east when I got to the palm grove.

Bighorn Sheep Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

Bighorn Sheep Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaAnd sure enough, within sight of the grove, I came upon some hikers looking up.  The sheep are difficult to see as they blend in with the rocks until you see the movement of a white butt.  I felt honored to see three of them and get this silhouette shot of a collared ewe or young ram standing on the ridge line.  The 44th Annual Sheep Count lasted 4 days in early July 2014 with I SEE EWE Volunteer Sheep Counters tallying 265 bighorn organized by Anza-Borrego Foundation, partners with the park.  The 2013 count totaled 332, the second largest count to date with the record for most sheep counted at 356 in 2009.

Stream crossing Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

Palm Canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI almost chickened out (silly I know) when I got to a stream crossing below the palm cluster then watched a couple of other hikers easily step-stone across and followed.  Sure glad because this palm grove proved to be a mini-world all it’s own.  Water is such a special gift in the desert.

Palm grove Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThe groves of palms often grow along earthquake faults that allow water to seep towards the surface.  The frond skirts protect the bark from water loss and insect predators.

Palm grove Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI should have gotten an earlier start so I could stay longer in the grove but the sun was low and clouds were sheeting in.  I read about a far less traveled track that continues up Borrego Palm Canyon toward seasonal waterfalls and an ascent trail to Indianhead Mountain but that would have to wait for another hike.

Borrego Springs valley from Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI didn’t have time to scramble around on boulders looking for morteros left behind from early residents grinding seeds and leaving holes behind.  Yet the Cahuilla Indians understandably chose Palm Canyon for a village site because of the flowing stream and shade brought from the canyon walls.

Sunset Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI took two hours to get to the Oasis and just under 45 minutes to return.  Then a quick stop at the grocery store and back to camp just before dark.  I have such huge respect for the power of water, especially in such an arid land.

Some specifics

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park day use fee was $7.  The trail is located just north of the park visitor center.  Just drive through Borrego Palm Canyon Campground, the largest developed campground in the park, to trail head parking.  Allow at least two hours round trip for this moderate 3-3.25 miles with 450 feet change in elevation.  An alternate trail branches off from, or to, the campfire area.  This trail is NOT dog friendly.  A trail guide is located at the trail head.  Bring plenty of water.  Stay on the trail, it really is a fragile environment.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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