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Tag: hike

16 September 2020

I hiked the hoodoos at Bryce Canyon

Wall Street Navajo Loop Tairl Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTruth be told I haven’t done much hiking in Bryce this season, or last, but I asked for a project day and hiked the hoodoos in uniform.  Good reminder about the beauty of Bryce Canyon National Park and how fortunate I am to work there.  Even climbing up Wall Street.

trees SR14 West UtahWent to Cedar City last week to shop, which I don’t like to do, but at least the drive is pretty.  After last week’s cold snap I wondered what the Aspen would look like at the almost 10,000 foot pass.  Many were turning a tarnished bronze.  Not a good indication for the gorgeous gold that I’d like to see, especially against the black lava flow where the Aspen grows from near Navajo Lake.  Much construction on the SR89 drive south so thought I’d return on the slightly longer I15 north and SR20 east but the interstate was backed up past the entrance ramp in town, so bagged that idea.

Joann and her granddaughter visited for a couple days.  Love to see friends at the park, even if we can’t officially hug hello.  Sadly, I was working so only saw them briefly.  They joined my Rim Walk about the cultural history of Bryce Canyon along with a family and 78-year old lady who just hiked the trail I would the next day.  What an inspiration.

I’d asked by supervisor for a project day to hike the hoodoos, and Sunday was that day.  I was both excited and nervous.  The Queen/Navajo Loop is only 2.9 miles plus a 600 foot change in elevation.  That’s not much, but more than I’ve done in a while.  I figured to take about six hours as I’d be in uniform stopping to answer visitor questions, and sauntering at my typical slow pace taking lots of photos along the way.  One of my biggest concerns was carrying enough water as I use a fanny pack that’s pretty small.  My arthritic shoulders can’t handle a backpack.

Get ready for photo overload

hoodoo wall trees Queen's Garden Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahStarting at Sunrise Point, the Queen’s Garden Trail drops rapidly into the hoodoos quickly bringing them to eye level.  It’s a harsh yet beautiful landscape with textured and crumbly limestone often layered in various shades of orange, red, pink, and whites.  The day was clear with Southwest deep blue sky at mid 70°s.

trees hoodoos horizon Queen's Garden Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMany visitors are satisfied by only a short walk downwards into this fairyland environment.  Probably just as well as they often carry no water or wear inadequate footwear.  The downside, how impacted the nearby off-trail areas that create social trails, many chained off or with signs doesn’t seem to stop people.  Why?  It hurts me to see all the social trails and disrespect for the rules made to protect the land, the place people come to enjoy.

trees hoodoos Queens Garden Tairl Bryce Canyon National Park UtahContinuing down trail, literally, still provides views both down and distant.

trees mounds plateaus Queen's Garden Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

hoodoo Queens Garden Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahOften patches of trees appear only to thin out for the dramatic surround of more hoodoos.

Suzanne Queens Garden trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahPSAR Suzanne patrolling the Queen’s Garden Trail by tunnel

Queen Victoria hoodoo Queen's Garden trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahQueen Victoria

A hoodoo that, presumably, resembles a statue of Queen Victoria provides a “destination” for the 1.8 mile round trip down and up of the Queen’s Garden trail.  It’s a 500 foot side trail right after a human-made tunnel through a hoodoo wall.  I encourage people to name hoodoos whatever they want, then take a photo and challenge their descendants to find them in the future.

hoodoos plateau valley Queen's Garden Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

hoodoos Queens Garden Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWhat is a hoodoo you ask?  A native word pronounced “oodoo” by the local southern Utah Paiute meaning rock people.  I certainly see shapes and faces in the hoodoo towers of weathered and eroded limestone.  The above reminded me of the Three Stooges.

hoodoos on hill trees Queen's Garden Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahEarly European American settlers saw castles.

hoodoos trees Queen's Garden Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe trees are often as shapely as the rock.

looking up trees hoodoos bottom Queen's Garden trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahShortly after the Queen, the trail continues down into the forested base of the hoodoos and perspective changes to looking up at their towering shapes.  A stiff neck could ensue if not having to look down to keep from tripping over errant rocks and roots.

forest hoodoos near junction of trails Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA beautiful stroll across a gentle terrain under forest shade most welcomed after the sunny exposure coming downhill.

Ranger Gaelyn bottom near trails junction Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI opted for lunch at a twisted root along the trail taking in the breathtaking surroundings.  Not far ahead a junction of trails gives options for additional mileage to the three mile Peek-a-boo trail, and two choices up the Navajo Loop, .6 miles on the Two Bridges side or our recommended .7 Wall Street side.  When advising visitors of the clockwise route on Navajo Loop Trail, either from top or bottom, many don’t know the movement of hands on a clock anymore because of digital.

I call Wall Street the icing on the hoodoo cake for a most unique experience similar to a slot canyon although not formed the same way geologically.  Traversing between two hoodoo walls provides shade at the end of a hike.  And although it’s steep, also safer because it’s easier to roll an ankle going down steep than up.  Navajo Loop trail is the shortest hoodoo hike in Bryce at 1.3 miles and also where almost one carry-out a day occurs.  This happens for a variety of reasons being short and therefore considered easy without taking into consideration the rim is at 8000 feet in elevation, the trail changes 500 feet in only a little over half a mile, it’s steep and requires footwear with good grip, and the hot arid environment means increasing water intake.  Disregarding these conditions often causes problems for unprepared visitors.

trees along dry wash hoodoos Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAvoiding the extra three miles I continued a bit more through forest and upward views at the rock people.  A visitor with go-pro on a selfie-stick joined me for maybe five minuets before I stopped to answer questions and he continued up the trail.

tree hoodoo walls Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahUpon reaching the base of Wall Street I heard guitar music reverberating softly against the rock walls.

guitar player Wall Street Navajo Loop trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA slight climb brought the musician and his photographer into view.  I tried unsuccessfully to video a bit of the unexpected entertainment.

Wall Street Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahShort switchbacks make the long climb seem less steep to me.  Yet I still stopped frequently with the excuse to take another photo.


I hiked the hoodoos sticker on water bottle Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Talked to over 100 cool folks who were mostly prepared.  Turned around four people with dogs along the way, and one wagon near the top of Wall Street.  Took 5 ½ hours but I hiked the hoodoos for three miles. Not bad for me.  And best of all, my legs didn’t hurt a bit afterwards or the next day.  Maybe next time I’ll tackle the Peek-a-boo trail.

 

 

Pink Cliffs valley haze Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I opened the visitor center and after a couple hours answering questions the schedule sent me to the end of the scenic drive with my favorite view from Yovimpa Point, and thank goodness it wasn’t hazy enough to totally obstruct the view.  My supervisor arrived to observe my 12:30 Grand Staircase geology talk and I thought it was the worst one I ever presented.  I am usually not bothered by staff observation.

A guy blatantly went around the fence in front of me to take a photo and when I asked him to come back he at first ignored me completely, then finally did. His wife apologized for him. What an ass.

tree in Natural Bridge Bryce Canyon National Park UtahStopped to rove at the Natural Bridge overlook, which is really an arch and not a bridge.  Always a good place to interact with visitors.  Besides, I keep on checking up on this tree.

My Friday on Tuesday included the evening program where I talk about the wildlife at Bryce Canyon.  Because it’s getting dark earlier that now happens at 8pm instead of 9pm.  No heartbreak being done a little earlier in the evening.

And today, my first of three days off, working on this post.  Then some chores to take care of and maybe a mini road trip tomorrow to have a propane tank re-certified.

hoodoo tree Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahRandom thoughts

Will the future of our species, provided it survives into the future, wonder why we didn’t see the demise of our planet coming. We’ve bastardized our basic needs, food/GMO, water/polluted, shelter/unaffordable, and clothing (which should be optional for weather protection) becoming the higher demand by some nebulous designers. What’s happening around us is not “normal”, nor should ever be accepted as such.

Fire is good for the land but not for us, paybacks a bitch for long time fire suppression.  And then add climate change.

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Bryce Canyon National Park, hoodoos, Places I've been, United States, Utah hike, hoodoos, trails 22 Comments
08 February 2018

Kofa NWR-sunrise, sunset, the moon, and hike Palm Canyon

desert late light Kofa NWR ArizonaThe day after photographing the super blue blood lunar eclipse from the Kofa NWR (National Wildlife Refuge) friends left and I continued to watch the sky and hang out in the desert.

desert sunrise Kofa Mountains Kofa NWR ArizonaSunrise

First morning of February, I found myself turning back and forth 180° as the sun rose over the Kofa Mountains and the moon set over the Dome Rock Mountains.

desert sunset Dome Rock Mountains Kofa NWR ArizonaSunset

Back at it for sunset then early to bed from the way too early morning the day before.

sunrise Kofa Mountains Kofa NWR ArizonaSunrise

I’ve spent daytime absorbing the peace and quiet of the desert.  Didn’t see much wildlife, a few birds including a soaring red-tail hawk, scat from coyote and deer, and one night eye-shine from my headlamp not more than 10 inches off the ground disappeared behind a creosote bush about 50 feet away.

desert moonset Dome Rock Mountains Kofa NWR ArizonaMoonset at sunrise

Second day of February I’m still at it, up for sunrise and in time to see the moon yet too bright by the time it sets.  Groundhog day for Punxsutawney Phil in  Pennsylvania while here in Arizona the cactus saw a tall shadow so that could mean six more weeks of winter.  But it’s been feeling more like spring at 80°/50°F.  So even though I’m loving that weather I’m hoping for winter.

sunset Dome Rock Mountains Kofa NWR ArizonaSunset

Tom showed up late Friday afternoon just in time for sunset.  Saturday we hung out in camp and watched the world go by as we chatted about any number of topics and watched contrails crisscross across the clear blue sky.

entering Palm Canyon trail Kofa NWR ArizonaSunday we hiked the Palm Canyon trail located just up the road from camp.  Was almost a year ago to the day I hiked this trail for the first time.  It’s in the shade so cool enough I was glad to have grabbed a lightweight long-sleeved shirt.

Gaelyn Palm Canyon Kofa NWR Arizona by T Morse

Gaelyn heads up Palm Canyon Trail by T. Morse

The .5 mile hike is fairly easy with a few areas of boulder climbing and only a small gain in elevation.  Saw a lot of folks with trekking poles which I usually consider a bother when taking photos.  One couple told us where to look for bighorn sheep but even with binoculars we didn’t see sheep.

California Palms side canyon from Palm Canyon trail Kofa NWR ArizonaCalifornia Palms light Palm Canyon Trail Kofa NWR Arizona

Arrived to the sign pointing to the side canyon where the palms grow and fortunately didn’t wait long for the afternoon light to shine on the palms.  These California Fan Palms, Washingtonia filifera, are perhaps the only native palm trees in Arizona.  Because palm trees do not produce annual growth rings it’s very difficult to say how old the trees might be.

Kofa Mountains up canyon Palm Canyon trail Kofa NWR ArizonaWater erosion through the volcanic rhyolite rock formed Palm Canyon.

La Posa Plain Dome Rock Mountains from Palm Canyon trail Kofa NWR ArizonaOn the return hike we looked across the La Posa Plains to the Dome Rock Mountains 30 miles away.

desert Kofa Mountains Kofa NWR ArizonaAlthough there aren’t that many RVs around and people are good about leaving space it seems they are in sight so I try to hide them behind trees like Palo Verde and Ironwood.

Kofa Mountains sunrise Kofa NWR ArizonaMonday greeted us with a marvelous sunrise.

Tom riding electric scooter Quartzsite ArizonaWe walked through a lot of vendors in Quartzsite and of course I found a few more things I didn’t know I could live without.  Tom test drove an electric scooter he thinks would be a fine addition on the back of his motorhome.

desert Dome Rock Mountains late light Kofa NWR ArizonaThat evening we drove toward the Kofa mountains with several stops to enjoy the golden hour.

sunset desert Dome Rock Mountains Kofa NWR ArizonaThe Sonoran Desert can be a prickly place to walk and you have to be cautious of the jumping cholla whose spines show no mercy.

sunset desert Kofa NWR ArizonaYet their glow in the late afternoon light beckons one in.

Tom left Tuesday morning and I’m still here.  Saturday marks my 14-day limit.  I’m concerned about the possible government shutdown Friday so not sure where to go.  Had been planning (a mistake) to visit some friends volunteering at Casa Grande National Monument but don’t want to get caught off guard.  I might be able to hang out nearby a bit longer but will have to dump and fill in a few days.  Also need a grocery run which is not great in Quartzsite but there’s a Safeway in Parker.

Palm Canyon trail Kofa NWR ArizonaWhere is it

East side of US Highway 95 approximately 63 miles north of Yuma and 18 miles south of Quartzsite, Arizona near milepost 85.  Sign reads Palm Canyon and the gravel road is usually in pretty good shape, a little rough, but could be nasty after rain.  Seven miles to parking for Palm Canyon Trailhead.

sunset desert Dome Rock Mountains Kofa NWR ArizonaSunset

Camping is pretty close to the gravel Palm Canyon Road both on BLM and the NWR.  Lots of vehicles drive fast and if the wind is blowing your way it gets damn dusty.  It’s free camping for 14 days with absolutely no services.  Bring plenty of water.  Do not drive over or park on vegetation.  In the NWR I saw signs about no vehicles beyond a line of rocks not far from the road.  Good signal with Verizon usually 4G with 3-5 bars.

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21 June 2017

Hiking to the rim Cape Final trail

June 7, 2017

lupine Cape Final trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWhen a friend who likes to get outdoors shows up at the canyon and I have a day off we decide to go hiking on the Cape Final trail.  One of my many favorite trails on the North Rim, 4.2 miles round trip over relatively gentle terrain through one of the best examples of a Ponderosa pine forest and to amazing views at the rocky rim.

lupine Cape Final trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

There’s been just enough fire in this area to make for a healthy forest, open, park-like, grassy, and covered with lupines.  It’s not nasty or charcoaled.  A Ponderosa pine forest should experience fire every 3-8 years to thin out the small saplings and burn off the down material.

spider web burn ponderosa pine Cape Final trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaYet humans suppressed fire for so long, we altered natural ecosystems for our own selfish reasons.  I, like you, don’t visit public lands to see char but I believe we have a better understanding of the important role fire plays in forest ecology.  So there is evidence of burn along the trail.

Horned lizard Cape Final trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Motion from a tiny Horned Lizard caught our attention.  These docile creatures blend in well with the forest floor.

Little Colorado River from Cape Final North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThe forest opens to a canyon view looking almost due east to the mouth of the Little Colorado River, not the river itself.

Little Colorado River from Cape Final North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThis is the area that has been proposed by a Scottsdale-based developer to build a tram that could potentially move up to 10,000 visitors a day to the bottom of the canyon on the Navajo Reservation.  The Grand Canyon Escalade development would also feature hotel, restaurant, and other resort attractions.  The proposal at the confluence seems to go on and off the table regularly.  I don’t think most of the Navajo and Hopi people want it so near sacred land. The Park Service certainly doesn’t support the idea.  It would be quite visible from several overlooks along the Cape Royal Road including the Cape Final trail.  Many people and organizations want to Save the Confluence.

canyon view Southeast Cape Final trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWe sat in one of the two campsites for lunch.  Yes, you can get a permit to camp on the rim at Cape Final.

canyon Colorado River Cape Final trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThen we walked a bit further for another canyon view and a piece of the Colorado River.

blue butterfly on ragweed Cape Royal trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWe had lollygagged out to the rim taking about two hours but then booked back in an hour as we’d been invited to a neighbor’s BBQ.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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