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Tag: Grand Canyon

Being a Park Ranger but without the hat

Government shutdown closed sign on Visitor Center door North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona 2013

With the current government shutdown most people I know who work for the National Park Service are still being a Park Ranger but without the hat.  Some national parks are open, some are not.  Most are understaffed on the best day, right now only “essential” personnel are on the job in uniform and not getting paid.  I could go on ranting about this for many pages, however that’s not really what this post is about.

last light temples San Fransisco peaks sunset North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAs many of you know I didn’t get my job as a Park Ranger at Grand Canyon back last summer due to yet a different government snafu than mentioned above.  I’ve now been unemployed for over a year.  That in itself is hard to take.  In 2018, I mourned the loss of my job and best friend.

Yarnell Regional Community Center thrift store Yarnell ArizonaThis year is different

I’m trying to get myself out there, into the world outside my four walls.  Good place to start that, my local community of Yarnell.  Last Thursday I volunteered for the first time at our Yarnell Regional Community Center thrift store.  Hey, I know about second-hand stuff, how to work a cash register, and can even count back change.  It was a fun five hours working with Rebecca, a friend and fellow photographer, chatting with locals, and even enjoyed a free lunch.

It doesn’t stop here

On Thursday, January 10th, at 2pm I will be presenting at the center, How the Grand Canyon was formed, complete with a slide program, but sadly no Park Ranger hat.  Can’t wear uniform parts when not working for the service, sort of like being in the military but I’m guessing way more fun.

last light from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaBecause I usually present this talk along the rim having the canyon as a prop I had to create a slide program to help tell the story.  Surprisingly, that took way over 40 hours of fun work.  If you’re able, hope you’ll join me.

Ranger Gaelyn in Grand Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI am excited about sharing the canyon’s geologic history.  I always hope it’s easier for people to love a place if they understand it better and can connect and become part of the story.  Now if I could just figure out how to take this show on the road, and get paid for it.  Yea, sorry, I’m still on that making an income thing.

Sunset Badwater Basin Death Valley National Park CaliforniaAnd another thing

Last night I attended a free presentation by photographer and writer Colleen Miniuk-Sperry on Finding your Creative Voice at the Wickenburg Arts Club.  We’ve been friends on Facebook for a little while and I admire her photography and her style.  Colleen is exuberant, and crazy by her own description, sharing her story to find her creative voice was inspirational.  She has one spot left in the Death Valley photography workshop in February that I would dearly love to attend.  Yet being a Park Ranger but without the hat, also means no income and therefore the workshop is out of my budget.

Long-horned beetle on Park Ranger hat North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMaybe someday, I can lead workshops myself and continue to be like a Park Ranger but without the hat.

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Photograph late and early light along the Cape Royal Road

August 30 & September 3 & 4, 2017

sunset Brahma temple from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAfter ten seasons working on the North Rim of Grand Canyon I’ve discovered some of the best places to photograph late and early light along the Cape Royal Road so always welcome an opportunity to shoot during the blue and golden hours surrounding sunset and sunrise.

Lynda Doug Bob Rebecca Scott White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument AZ by J Scott Crist gLynda, Doug, Bob, Rebecca & Scott at Vermilion Cliffs curtesy of Scott

A couple nights after Rebecca and I went to Point Imperial for sunset I joined her again and met some new friends.  (Hope I labeled this right.)  I had met Lynda before who was traveling with brother Bob and friend/photographers Doug and Scott.

crack at edge looking down Cape Royal Wedding Site North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Raven Cape Royal Wedding Site North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWe had snacks and adult cocktails at the Wedding site and were joined by one of the local Ravens, probably looking for handouts.  Slim pickings from folks that know better than to feed the wildlife.  And yes, you can actually get a permit to be married at this location on the rim of Grand Canyon.  How cool is that?

crepuscular rays Wotans Throne Cape Royal Wedding Site North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThey had shot the night before from the end of the .4 mile (.64 km) Cape Royal trail so were looking for a different view.

Lynda sunset Cape Royal Wedding Site North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWe wandered to slightly different rim locations according to our individual creative and artistic eye.  Almost within sight of each other yet mindful to stay out of the camera’s view.  Although fun to photograph each other as I caught Lynda shooting the view below.

last light Cape Royal Wedding Site North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI find myself intrigued and searching for shafts of light/crepuscular rays, some highlight areas within the canyon while creating contrasting patches of shadow that often reflect the intricate rocky shapes.

South Rim San Fransisco Peaks storm clouds sunset moon Cape Royal Wedding Site North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThe smokey haze from multiple southern California fires added to the sunset colors.

sunset Cape Royal Wedding Site North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI’ve watched sunset from here before yet usually prefer the end of the trail for a little more canyon topography.

sunset Cape Royal Wedding Site North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaCape Royal on the Walhalla Plateau is located at the end of the scenic drive 23 miles and 45 minutes (in daylight) from the Visitor Center and Lodge parking.  Yet I find it getting crowded so maybe we Rangers have told too many people about this fabulous sunset location.

crepuscular rays West from Cape Royal overlook North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI was fortunate enough to be scheduled to work on the Walhalla Plateau two days in a row shortly after that night.  Unfortunately the first day I wasn’t there quite long enough for sunset.  But the second day I took my own rig so I could change out of uniform and stay late.  Of course if anyone has seen me during the day I’d still be a Ranger after hours.  But once a Ranger always a Ranger.  In fact I talked with a guy, Bob, at Walhalla overlook while roving and recommended Cape Royal for sunset photography.  He gauranteed not to recognize me as a Ranger later.

moon rise from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI first tried to get an almost full moon rise but the haze blocked its break over the horizon.  I find the free Google Sky app on my phone helps me line up for where the moon is supposed to rise but do have to take into consideration that my horizon line is at a higher elevation than the app shows.

last light from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI’d never seen it so crowded at Cape Royal for sunset but then it was Labor Day weekend and the park was packed.

last light from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI’d set up for a shot and then at least five selfie-stick people would get in front of me.  Probably eight serious photogs with DSLRs on tripods versus 25-30 phone-photogs spread over the rocks like amphitheater seating, including one person with a dog.  Being out of uniform made me one of the crowd so I didn’t say anything about the no dog law.

sunset temples from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI don’t know why everyone can’t be a little more polite when it comes to getting that “best shot.”

sunset from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaReally wanted some foreground in at least some of the shots so I finally moved close enough to the edge that no one could get in front of my view.

sunset temples from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI knew the sun would be setting not long after moonrise and just above the Brahma Temple according to the Photographer’s Ephemeris app that I have on my computer but haven’t put on my phone yet.

Angels Window sunrise Walhalla Plateau North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThen lucky me, I awoke early enough to chase the sunrise.

sunrise Walhalla Plateau North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

morning light Angels Window Vishnu Temple Humphrey Peak North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAngels Window sunrise Walhalla Plateau Cape Royal Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

My goal to see first light on the towering fin that hosts Angels Window and bonus was the rosy glow on Vishnu Temple and a pastel horizon for Humphrey Peak to show through about 65 miles away.  Thank you Paul Gill for sharing your awesome results on a different morning.  Now one of my favorite photos of the season and available for prints.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

inner canyon Walhalla overlook Cape Royal Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAlso stopped at all the overlooks on the return drive home just like I always recommend to the visitors.  And even though these views are mostly east into the bright morning sun I like the way certain rock faces captured the light.

morning light view Walhalla overlook Cape Royal Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFirst stop, Walhalla overlook where I met visitor Bob the previous day.  As we shared some of our sunset shots it was interesting to see how he had gone way wide and I had more focused in shots.  That made me think how fun it would be to see the variety from all the people shooting and seeing the same sunset with different eyes/lens.

Then Adam Schallau drove up, tour guide and well known photographer from Flagstaff (wonder where he’d been shooting).  Although I haven’t yet taken one of Adam’s workshops I’m learning from obsorbing his awesome photography.  Sure wish I was going on his upcoming Colorado River trip, but alas I’m working.

Brady Peak Vista Encantada Cape Royal Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI moved on to Vista Encantada which offers a nice frame of Brady Peak.

Brady Peak Mt Hayden Saddle Mountain Vista Encantada Cape Royal Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaPlus a big view of Mount Hayden, Saddle Mountain, and barely the horizon beyond but too hazy for Navajo Mountain sometimes seen 100 miles away.

wildflowers aspen Brady Peak Vista Encantada Cape Royal Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI wandered below the rim a little looking for aspen that should soon turn gold with a canyon background.  Yet on this day trees still showed green and a few purple and yellow wildflowers hung on for the last of summer life.

bench picnic table Brady Peak Vista Encantada Cape Royal Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThere are even places to sit to enjoy the view.  Which is really what visiting Grand Canyon should be about.  And no matter when and where you take photos, although time of day and light can be taken into consideration, there are no bad views of the canyon.  The photos should evoke your memories.

Brady Peak Vista Encantada Cape Royal Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaA question came up on a FB photography page I follow about sharing the locations of photo shoots.  Some places are SO popular and (over) frequently visited that location is usually shared, like I do here.  Yet I don’t do GPS so coordinates aren’t published.  General concensus seems to agree that private property should not be shared for obvious reasons.  And then there’s those secret places that should just be discovered on our own.  How do you weigh in?

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Learning about people, places & issues at the Grand Canyon History Symposium 2016

November 4-6, 2016

Grand Canyon Historical Society logoI hated history classes as a kid.  Maybe that had something to do with how history was taught.  Now it is one of my many favorite subjects and I jumped at the chance to attend the Grand Canyon History Symposium 2016, my second out of four.  The last one in 2012 was excellent, although the January snow was deep.  This year’s November gathering was superb.  “The Grand Canyon Historical Society celebrates and promotes the study and preservation of the Grand Canyon region’s cultural and natural history for the education and enjoyment of its members and the public.”

Bright Angel canyon & North Rim from South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaBright Angel Canyon & North Rim

After an afternoon walk along the rim we attended the registration and welcome reception at Maswick Lodge Friday evening.  Ran into several people I know.  Poor Bill, who claims not to be social, met more new people that night than he has all year.  Called it an early night because the speaker sessions began at 8 the next morning.

Presentations

Saturday was a full day.  I’m picking out my favorites from the 16 research presentations, although they were all interesting, about people, issues and places from Grand Canyon’s history.  I took no photos as the presentations were all inside the Shrine of the Ages and would only show a person’s silhouette in front of an over bright slide.

Current President Wayne Ranney opened the day by welcoming and thanking everyone.  His wife Helen and Dave Mortenson—along with many volunteers—took care of the business of making this happen and their name tags were labeled “Big Cheese”.  It has to be a lot of work to put an event like this together.  Wayne reminded the presenters of the strict 20 minute time limitation, including a moderator in the front row who would hold up signs when 5 and 1 minute remained.  Then the new Grand Canyon National Park Superintendent Christine Lehnertz spoke about the importance of remembering and sharing the history of the park.

Havasupai Medicine Duo Uqualla & White Dove Natve American Heritage Days North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaHavasupai Medicine Duo Uqualla & White Dove at Natve American Heritage Days North Rim Grand Canyon National Park 2008

The first presenters, Steve and Lois Hirst, talked about their “Recovering Lost Stories: The Havasupai Photograph Project.”  Steve and Lois began a lifelong relationship with the Havasupai in the mid 1960s.  While living on the reservation they were asked to research and document the case for winning back ancestral land.  This led to the discovery of hundreds of long-lost historic photographs in museums and archives.  So they began putting names to the faces drawing on memories of elders and facial comparisons.  Steve’s award-winning book I Am the Grand Canyon, his novel Lauren Greasewater’s War, and the historic enlargement of the Havasupai Reservation are the outcome of that work.

Historic lodging NPS 5155Historic lodging NPS 5155

Several lesser know characters from Grand Canyon’s history were brought to light.  Julius Farlee ran the first tourist operations even though that credit is typically given to the better known John Hance and William Bass.  From the early 20th century, Henry C. Peabody was identified as an “Eminent National Park Service Photographer” who created a 43-photograph narrated slideshow  of the Grand Canyon.  Rose Collom, a self-taught botanist, collected over 800 specimens between 1938-54 putting Grand Canyon near the top of national parks in plant diversity.

Desertview Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaDesertview Watchtower – Colter design completed in 1932

Plus many well known people were recognized for their accomplishments and involvement at, and in, the canyon.  From 1905-35 Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter created visionary designs on the South Rim for the Santa Fe Railway and Fred Harvey Company using natural materials to give the structures a sense of place.  Martin Litton spent more than 80 years as an active environmentalist and fought against two dams in Grand Canyon in the 1960s.

Discussed were just a few issues the National Park Service has dealt with like gaining control of our park from the earliest mining claimants, managing the river and user-group conflicts, and transportation and visitor parking.

Shrine of the Ages South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaShrine of the Ages 2012

Did you know Grand Canyon has a cemetery?  Seems people are dying to be buried there.  Yet it is small and mostly local folks who find their way here.  Right next door is the Shrine of the Ages built during the late 1960s with an original intention of providing an interfaith chapel for locals and visitors to worship.  Services are held yet the multi-purpose building is also used for fund raisers, music festivals, evening programs, and symposiums.  There are several examples of the rather boring Mission 66 architecture built for the National Park Service 50th anniversary and talk of tearing some of it down.

Interpretive sign Mather Visitor Center South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaDisplay at Mather Visitor Center

Morning and afternoon breaks plus a long lunch helped break up the day a bit.  Plus just outside the Shrine was displayed restored or replicated historic river boats.

Vintage Grand Canyon National Park WPA posterFriday night Doug Leen’s presentation told the story of WPA National Park serigraphic posters printed between 1935 and 1943 as part of the WPA’s Federal Art Project.  Few remain yet are being restored.

Renown photographer Gary Ladd shared what he considers the 50+ finest features at Grand Canyon Saturday evening.  Having spent 50 years floating the Colorado river and hiking in, on, and around the canyon his images wowed us all.

Hopi Lyle Balenquah and Navajo Jason Nez GRCA History Symposium South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaSeveral tours with per-registration were also offered on Friday and Sunday.  We chose A Time of Profound Change co-presented by Hopi Lyle Balenquah and Navajo Jason Nez.  While enjoying the view we heard them talk about increased communications between the Nations and Park Service.  This land may belong to us all but has sacred meaning to many of the First People.

Preparing for 2019

A follow up questionnaire came quickly via email and while still fresh in attendee’s minds as plans begin for the 5th Grand Canyon History Symposium only a few years away.  I could hardly thank everyone enough for putting on this historic event.  My only recommendation was to hold the next one on the North Rim.  Now I’m thinking of ideas to submit for the next gathering of historians in 2019, when Grand Canyon National Park celebrates its 100th birthday.

All presentations will be compiled and eventually published by Grand Canyon Association, an official nonprofit partner of Grand Canyon National Park.

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Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, History Symposium, National Parks and Monuments , , 19 Comments

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