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Tag: geology

07 December 2010

Hiking Grand Canyon – Day 3 Up to Indian Garden

Silver Bridge across Colorado River Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Even after a full day of rest in camp we didn’t rush to get on the 4.7 mile (7.4 k) Bright Angel trail for the day of hiking Grand Canyon and headed for the Silver Bridge at a still chilly below freezing 10:30am.

Mike on Silver Bridge Bright Angel trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

The Silver Bridge was constructed in the late 1960s to support the transcanyon pipeline carrying water from Roaring Springs to the South Rim.

Colorado River downstream from Silver Bridge Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

This day, the Rio de Colorado, Spanish for “River of Color,” showed some of its truer ruddy self.

Colorado River upstream from Silver Bridge Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Since the completion of Glen Canyon Dam, sediments are mostly trapped behind the dam typically leaving the river a crystal blue/green.

Brown trout caught by National Park Service biologist in Bright Angel Creek Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Fishery biologist holds brown trout

In addition, some native fishes adapted to the pre-dam warmer, muddier water, are becoming extinct in the cold, clear water which now supports introduced species like trout.

Bucks on River trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Mule deer bucks none to anxious to leave the River trail

The Civilian Conservation Corps constructed the River Trail, which continues east to the South Kaibab trail and Black Bridge, between 1933 and 1936 to enable hikers and mule riders to reach Phantom Ranch from the Bright Angel Trail.

Light on canyon walls and quartz intrusions from River trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

The 1.6 mile (2.4 km) River Trail climbs above and follows the river passing through a sand dune habitat with vertical walls of Vishnu Schist rising more than 1400 feet (427 m) above our heads.

Pipe Creek Beach Bright Angel trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Where Pipe Creek enters the Colorado River Bright Angel Trail begins it’s slow 3.1 mile (5 km) ascent to Indian Garden where we spent the night.

Mike on Bright Angel trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

First following the meanders of Pipe Creek including several shallow crossings.

Devils Corkscrew from Bright Angel trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Next comes the switchbacks known as the Devils Corkscrew and the long traverse through the desert-like Vishnu Schist environment. Every time I hike this part it feels shorter.

Bright Angel trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

This tops out into a narrows through the Tapeats Sandstone showing extensive erosion by Garden Creek.

Waterfall along Bright Angel trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Groundwater seeping through the rock layers above is stopped by the Bright Angel Shale layer on top of the sandstone and comes out in several springs which have been used by people over a 1000 years.

Bright Angel Trail into Indian Garden campground Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

It’s such a delight to suddenly find myself back in the lush streamside habitat approaching Indian Garden, even with the snow dusted South Rim in sight.

Camp at Indian Garden Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

It was an early dinner and quickly into the tent sort of night as we crawled into our sleeping bags to stay warm with a low of 13F and dream of the next day’s 4.6 miles (7.4 km) to top out on the South Rim.

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Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon National Park, National Parks and Monuments Colorado River, Devils Corkscrew, geology, hiking, history, Indian Garden camp, rim to rim, wildlife 9 Comments
06 December 2010

Hiking Grand Canyon – Day 2 Staying close to camp

Snowing on South Rim from Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Snowing on the South Rim in the morning

I’d never hiked the South Kaibab trail into Grand Canyon before. It is a steep, 7 mile (11.26 km) ridge trail with no potable water. Not a great place to be during the heat of summer. However, a winter hike on it was ideal.

Camp site Bright Angel campground Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Bright Angel Camp

Unfortunately, my body didn’t quite agree about the idea and was extremely exhausted after 7.5 hours downhill. Plus we basically didn’t get into camp until after dark.

Cabin Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Cabin rental through Xanterra

So the next day, after a very chilly mid 20 degree F night and sleeping in until 8am, we first explored Phantom Ranch.

Canteen Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

The Canteen offers food & beverages, full meals require reservations

In 1922, the Fred Harvey Company commissioned Mary Jane Colter to redesign the original tourist camp built by David Rust twenty years earlier.

Mike writing postcard in Canteen Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

We went inside to warm up over a cup of cocoa and write postcards.

Mule pack train coming into Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Everything used and sold here is carried in by mule train, as is all the garbage carried out.

Bridge over Bright Angel Creek below campground and Black Bridge in background Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

After sitting in this warmth for a little while our legs started to stiffen up so we walked back to camp for water and snacks to hike a little ways back up the trail we came down after dark. The Bright Angel campground is nestled between Bright Angel Creek…

Vishnu Schist in Bright Angel campground Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

…and towering walls of 4.7 billion year old Vishnu Schist.

Closeup of quartz in Vishnu Schist in Bright Angel campground Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Closeup of the ancient schist with quartz and granite intrusions

Ranger residence under fall trees and canyon walls Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Ranger residence

Though a remote and rugged setting, this area has long been a destination for humans.

Ancestral Puebloan ruin along North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Almost 1000 years ago native people called Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi) built their homes along the river.

Colorado River downstream from Black Bridge Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Can’t say as I blame them.

Black Bridge over Colorado River from Boat Beach Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Yet crossing the swift Colorado River had to be a hazardous undertaking before the National Park Service completed the present Kaibab Suspension Bridge in 1928.

Tunnel at South end of Black Bridge Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

The one-ton, 550-foot- long suspension cables were carried down into the canyon on the shoulders of mostly Havasupai tribesmen who walked single file down the trail while carrying the cables. And I thought carrying a 32 pound backpack was over much!

Colorado River and Bright Angel Creek confluence from South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Confluence of Bright Angel Creek and Colorado River

But this day’s little hike was light and easy. And after seeing what was too dark to see the night before we headed back to camp.

South Rim from Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Looking up at the snow on the South Rim

Thinking of the next day’s hike uphill. But that’s another story.

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Bright Angel Campground, Grand Canyon National Park, National Parks and Monuments, Phantom Ranch archeology, geology, rim to rim 19 Comments
03 December 2010

Hiking Grand Canyon – Day 1 on the South Kaibab trail or It’s all downhill from here

Gaelyn & Mike at S Kaibab trailhead South Rim Grand Canyon National Park

Being only a 7 mile (11.1 km) hike down the South Kaibab trail to Bright Angel campground us “retirees” were in no rush to hit the trail at the crack of a below freezing dawn.  Instead we started hiking Grand Canyon at 10:30am.

South Kaibab trail switchbacks called The Chimney South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Only a little snow on the rim and trail but we still put on our ice grippers then dropped over the edge to descend along switchbacks called The Chimney through the 270 million year old Kaibab and Toroweap limestones.

O'Neill Butte S Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

O’Neill Butte

We continued our descent 1140 feet (348 m) past the 275 million year old Coconino sandstone to Cedar Ridge which sits on 280 million year old Hermit shale. This is a popular 3 mile (4.8 km) round-trip day hike destination where we stopped to snack and enjoy the spectacular views. Already two hours into our hike and only 5 miles (8 km) to go. Feeling good!

O'Neill Butte South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

O’Neill Butte up close

This butte was named after Buckey O’Neill who prospected in the canyon during the 1890s and promoted the railroad to the South Rim.

Gaelyn South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

The endless views stopped us in our tracks almost every step of the way. Or was it the subtle aching in our knees?

Panoramic view N & NW from Skeleton Point South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

From Skeleton Point (don’t ask why it’s named that) I could see the North Rim in the far distance and with binoculars just make out the Grand Lodge.

The Tonto Platform & North Rim above Phantom Ranch from South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Looking over the edge I could even see Phantom Ranch, our destination for the next two nights, nestled in the fall colored trees. So close yet still 3.9 miles (6.3 km) away.

The Red and Whites switchbacks South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

The next 500 vertical feet (150 m) of switchbacks, called The Red and Whites, drop along the 340 million year old Redwall limestone.

Natural Arch from South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

I had to remind myself to look back up once in awhile and was rewarded with this natural arch high above.

Mike at The Tipoff South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Yet most important was keeping my eyes on the trail, like at The Tipoff which plunges into the 1600 foot (488 m) deep Granite Gorge. Only 2.3 miles (3.7 km) to go.

Colorado River West from Panorama Point South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

With more views…

Panorama Point South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

…at Panorama Point.

Switchbacks above tunnel South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Then only 1200 feet (366 m), straight down, plus just over a mile more to the tunnel, Black Bridge and Colorado River through the 1.7 billion year old Vishnu Schist. Oh no, not more down. By now my right knee was very tender.

Sunset over confluence Colorado River and Bright Angel Creek and Phantom Ranch from South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Once again I could see our destination and it seemed so close at hand. But it wasn’t until after sunset that we walked into Bright Angel campground, 7.5 hours after having left the South Rim.

Mike on Black Bridge Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

We were exhausted. This is the first time I’ve had problems with my knees going downhill. Thank goodness we could enjoy a complete days of recovery in the bottom of the canyon before making the climb back out.

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