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Tag: geology

24 June 2020

Bryce Canyon first at setting the bar

valley Table Cliff clouds Bryce Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBryce Canyon first national park in the nation to present live Ranger programs.  We are setting the bar in Utah national parks and even the visitors comment on how we have our act together.

Although Bryce is making history with firsts I am not.  Didn’t get the camper emptied or cleaned over last week’s two days off as planned.  Maybe this week with three days off.

Cockcomb Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahFirst field trip

Last week, instead of an unpleasant cleaning chore, I went on my first field trip of the summer with fellow Ranger April.  She was sent with a government truck into Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument to gather rock samples and I went along for the ride safety.  No permit needed for non commercial purposes, 25 pounds per day, plus one piece, with a total limit of 250 pounds per year.

Cottonwood Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahEast off the Paunsaugunt Plateau on Utah’s Scenic Byway 12 to Cannonville then south on Cottonwood Canyon Road, which can be impassable even to all-wheel-drive vehicles under wet conditions.  But it’s been dry so there was just dust and washboard to deal with, along with amazing scenery.

Cottonwood Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahWe drove along an eroded geologic fault, parallel to the Cockscomb’s dramatic shapes and colors where the Carmel and Entrada formations are turned upright along the East Kaibab monocline.  Then continued not quite to the junction with SR89 observing the stratigraphy while geologist April decided where to gather on the return trip.

Navajo sandstone Lower Hackberry Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Utah

Navajo sandstone calcite boxwork Lower Hackberry Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahStopped at Lower Hackberry for samples of Navajo sandstone with intricate calcite boxwork.

Cottonwood Narrows Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Utah

rocks from Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahThen further north at Cottonwood Narrows with colorful, jagged Navajo Sandstone pinnacles lining the road and gathered some fine samples showing ripple marks.

Sadly, I left my big camera behind and had to shoot with the phone.  Even worse I got bit up by gnats and now have a whole bunch of bumps and itches on my face.

Bryce Canyon museum opens

sunflower Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahThe museum in the visitor center opened and now we allow 50 people into the building. People stay longer because of that so frequently there is a line to get in.  We are still counting at the door, not my favorite shift as I’m lousy at numbers and math.  The displays have to be sanitized a couple times a day so the area is briefly closed to the public.  The movie theater is still closed as distancing would have to be monitored in such a small space.  We do not have enough staff for that.  As it is, some schedules are opening or closing without other National Park Service staff.  Thank goodness we work as partners with the Natural History Association employees and help each other breaking down the day setup of merchandise, tables, and popup tents as needed.

hoodoos amphitheater Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBryce Canyon first Ranger programs

We started scheduled and advertised Ranger programs on the 21st, first full day of summer, Mom’s birthday (she’d have been 96), and Father’s Day.  Bryce is the only national park in the nation to do so, and will continue if the public can follow distancing guidelines.  Just before the 2pm hoodoo talk a visitor told me about a woman coming up the trail with a bad ankle being supported by two people. I could see them only a few switchbacks down the Navajo trail and radioed for medical assistance. When I returned to the tables moments before I should start the talk several groups of people were standing on the distancing dots waiting. I was impressed and thanked them for doing the right thing which allowed me to drop mask and talk.

If all goes well and the night sky is clear, laser constellation tours by interns will start this week.

The same day started longer open hours from 8am to 8pm.  Ranger info is still outside the building.

Not a first for more bug bites on my face.  After work and washing my face I was speckled with pink dots of Calamine lotion.  When did that stuff get so runny in consistency?

smoke Mangum fire from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Monument Utah

Mangum fire map 6-23-20In fact those nasty biting gnats eventually chased Ranger Paula and me off Yovimpa Point at the end of our day.  But not before I presented one and a half formal Staircase geology talks out of a possible four, talked about the Mangum fire, and answered questions.

cows by horse corral Bryce Canyon National Park UtahCows are not wildlife

wrangler leading horses & mules Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMaybe the wranglers can roundup the stray cattle

A Bryce Canyon first for me was coming home after work to maybe a dozen cows outside the horse corral 100 feet from my door.  I called the non-emergency dispatch number in Glen Canyon and in the brief time it took for Law Enforcement to arrive the cows had wandered northward, still in the park.  Must have a break in the fence along the border between grazeable national forest and Bryce National Park.  The UCC (Utah Conservation Corp) crew of youth have been walking the fence to make needed repairs.

Cottonwood Road Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahVisitors to Bryce Canyon act respectful and keep distancing, for the most part anyway.  I am noticing many large family-like groups.  They seem grateful for many Bryce Canyon firsts and frequently thank Rangers for their service.  I notice more people wearing masks to enter the visitor center than out at overlooks or trails.  I am wearing mine when in uniform in the public except for outside roving on trails when at a safe distance from others.  And now some counties in Utah, including Garfield and Kane that Bryce straddles, have gone Green, “the new normal”.  Not sure I see that as a good thing.

valley Table Cliffs clouds Cannonville UtahNext…

Come my Friday on Tuesday, and trying to decide what to do with my three-day weekend, other than the laundry I put off last week partly because it’s a bitch to find parking near either of the free/included in rent, in park options.

Feels like the summer season has barely started yet the season is almost half over already.  OMG, I find myself already thinking about what to do at the end of the season and over the winter which brings me back to owning two RVs I can’t move together.

Even after resetting the outside booster antennae my signal is not great, but guess that’s not a Bryce Canyon first.

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Bryce Canyon National Park, COVID-19, Park Ranger, Places I've been, United States, Utah geology, National Park, Park Ranger, ranger programs, RV life 33 Comments
13 August 2019

Bryce Canyon Hoodoo geology–the short version

Wall of Windows hoodoos Rim Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAs a Park Ranger at Bryce Canyon National Park I prepared and present a 20-minute Hoodoo geology talk several times a week.  Those crazy looking hoodoos is why people visit Bryce.

seating Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahPhone shot

The audience area is located about 40 feet from Sunset Point and the Navajo Loop trailhead.  Seating is three double rows of wooden benches.  Depending on the time of day many visitors either hang out there to sit in shade, not attend a Ranger program, or hover nearby along a fence under a shade tree.  It’s awkward.

Wall Street Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLook closely for people on the Wall Street trail (phone shot)

Ground squirrel on bench Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahGolden Mantled Ground Squirrel attending program (phone shot)

Plus, the fenced area along the amphitheater’s rim looks down on the popular Wall Street side of the Navajo Loop trail.  In addition, the Sunset parking lot is where tour buses disgorge their hordes of mostly international visitors so the overlook fills quickly and frequently.  Have I mentioned that 65% of Bryce’s visitors are international.  Some people speak English better than others, some not at all.  Always interesting to explain things like not feeding, or putting your fingers near, wildlife like chipmunks and ground squirrels who having been fed are way too friendly with people.  Part of my job is to haze the critters away from people, basically stomp my feet and act intimidating.  Doesn’t work well or for long.  But I digress…

sign Sunset Point view South Bryce Canyon National Park UtahView above Wall Street (phone shot)

I get to my presentation area about 15 minutes before start time, right now advertised at 11am or 2pm.  Sometimes it’s difficult to tell if anybody is there for a Ranger program.  So I chat with folks asking where they are from, and take it from there.  Knowing where visitors live in regards to elevation usually tells me I need to make altitude sickness and dehydration my safety talk before getting down to hoodoo geology.

Depending on the season and weather I often add a reminder to stay away from the rim during a nearby lightning storm recommending a vehicle or building as the safest place to be.  When thunder roars, go indoors.  When you see the flash of a lightning bolt, you can start counting seconds, “One-Mississippi, two-Mississippi, three-Mississippi…”  Sound travels 1 mile in roughly 5 seconds and you should be at least 10 miles away from lightning.  Finally with small talk and safety message done, usually more people have joined because there’s a Ranger talking.

map Colorado Plateau Image shared with audience

geologic cross section of the Cedar Breaks Zion Grand Canyon region(borrowed from the internet, although I own the poster and use it in another geology talk)  

I’m going to talk about how these crazy looking rocks called hoodoos were both created and destroyed by water.  But first let’s put Bryce Canyon National Park in perspective on the Colorado Plateau.  Going back about 85-60 mya (million years ago) the continent was smaller, no California, and closer to the equator.  The floor of the Pacific Ocean, on a separate tectonic plate than the continent, bumped into the continent and subducted below the continental crust.  It’s hot down there so that rock melted, became buoyant, and lifted a land mass of 240,000 square miles that straddles some of Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado at The Four Corners.  The slow uplift went from sea level up 7,000 to 10,000 feet with almost a mile of sedimentary rock deposits from oceans, lakes, dunes, estuaries and rivers.

ancient lakes on Colorado Plateau(NPS illustration)

About 60 mya in this location, a dip in the land allowed for a lake to fill.  When the tiny creatures living in the lake died their bones and shells fell to the lake bottom, built up, and were compressed into limestone.  Rivers and streams flowed into the lake sometimes bringing mud, or sand which was also lithified, or turned into rock, mudstone or shale, sandstone, and then more limestone.  Over millions of years the deposits built up to at least 2000 feet thick.

normal faults between Sevier and Paunsaugunt(borrowed from the internet, I use my fists to demonstrate normal faulting)

Then, about 16-6 mya, three blocks of land with faults between broke apart leaving the Aquarius Plateau in the east, a valley where the Paria River flows, the Paunsaungunt Plateau where Bryce is, the Sevier River Valley, and the Markagunt Plateau to the west.  The Paunsaungunt is about 1000 to 2000 feet lower than the other two plateaus.  Yet the lake deposits are the same so hoodoos can also be seen at Cedar Breaks National Monument, just in smaller concentration than Bryce.  Imagine all the shaking of the earth during this faulting.

trees hoodoos valley sunset storm clouds from Bryce Point Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

hand demo headward erosion I most often use my hands to demonstrate (lousy hand selfie)

OK, now on to the formation of hoodoos.  Bryce receives about 16 inches of precipitation a year.  Water flows off the plateau following the line of least resistance and finds cracks and fractures.  The water erodes the land backwards, called headward erosion, and leaves walls of rock.  The rate of erosion is about one foot every 50 years.  That’s fast.  In some areas of the park old rim trails are closed and new railings are parallel to the old because of that fast rate of erosion.  Think about it, 50 years compared to the 85 million years where I started this story.

trees hoodoos from rim trail near Inspiration Point Bryce Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNote the skinny hoodoos still have some gray dolomite cap rock

hoodoo formationI use my hands for this demonstration also (borrowed from internet)

Now, there are walls of fractured, soft, sedimentary rock – mostly limestone with intermittent layers of sandstone and mudstone – and they are capped by dolomite, a harder layer of limestone which protects the softer layers below, for a while anyway.  Sort of like me wearing a hat that keeps my glasses dry in the rain.  The narrowest area is the softest mudstone.  At 8000 feet in elevation, Bryce receives about 200 nights below freezing.  When the water in the vertical cracks in the walls freezes it expands forcing the rocks apart, called frost wedging.  Over time the wall can become a window.  Eventually the cap rock falls and leaves pillars of rock standing side by side.  Then erosion from wind, rain and snow softens the shapes into hoodoos.  But they don’t stand forever, slowly shrinking into a rounded pile of dirt.  The average life of a hoodoo is 2000 years.

Hoodoos Ponderosa Point Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

painting Grand Staircase Le Fevre overlook Kaibab National Forest ArizonaGrand Staircase painting at Le Fevre overlook Kaibab NF AZ

But what about the color?  In the early 1870s, geologist Clarence Dutton named these rocks at the top of the Grand Staircase the Pink Cliffs, also known as the Claron Formation.  I struggle with pink, seeing mostly shades of orange.  Maybe Clarence saw them in a different light, or maybe he was colorblind.  Iron is present in the sediments and oxidation makes for the colors.

hoodoos Silent City clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWalls of hoodoos in the Silent City (phone shot)

The word Hoodoos is fun to say, go ahead ‘who-do’.  I have discovered different origins for hoodoo.  Coming from the southeastern US where 1800s African slaves practiced a folk magic called hoodoo.  One band of native Paiute tell a story of the rocks being bad people turned to stone by the trickster coyote.  Yet when recently talking to a group of Paiute youth with elders I was told the word is ‘oodoo’ – no “h” – and means neither bad nor good.

shrinking Sentinel hoodoo Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe once famous Sentinel hoodoo over ten years time was struck by lightning

So, hoodoos come and hoodoos go, all created by and destroyed by water.  Headward erosion will continue to create walls until there is no plateau left.  Of course, not in our lifetimes.  Changing climate may also change the rate of frost wedging.  Will there be a Bryce Canyon National Park someday in the geologic future?

inside pocketThe above is one out 1100 photos of the inside of my back pocket from my phone the day I took many of the above photos and presented my talk about Hoodoo geology.  Oops.  Kind of a fun pattern though.

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Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah geology, hoodoos 29 Comments
08 January 2019

Being a Park Ranger but without the hat

Government shutdown closed sign on Visitor Center door North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona 2013

With the current government shutdown most people I know who work for the National Park Service are still being a Park Ranger but without the hat.  Some national parks are open, some are not.  Most are understaffed on the best day, right now only “essential” personnel are on the job in uniform and not getting paid.  I could go on ranting about this for many pages, however that’s not really what this post is about.

last light temples San Fransisco peaks sunset North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAs many of you know I didn’t get my job as a Park Ranger at Grand Canyon back last summer due to yet a different government snafu than mentioned above.  I’ve now been unemployed for over a year.  That in itself is hard to take.  In 2018, I mourned the loss of my job and best friend.

Yarnell Regional Community Center thrift store Yarnell ArizonaThis year is different

I’m trying to get myself out there, into the world outside my four walls.  Good place to start that, my local community of Yarnell.  Last Thursday I volunteered for the first time at our Yarnell Regional Community Center thrift store.  Hey, I know about second-hand stuff, how to work a cash register, and can even count back change.  It was a fun five hours working with Rebecca, a friend and fellow photographer, chatting with locals, and even enjoyed a free lunch.

It doesn’t stop here

On Thursday, January 10th, at 2pm I will be presenting at the center, How the Grand Canyon was formed, complete with a slide program, but sadly no Park Ranger hat.  Can’t wear uniform parts when not working for the service, sort of like being in the military but I’m guessing way more fun.

last light from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaBecause I usually present this talk along the rim having the canyon as a prop I had to create a slide program to help tell the story.  Surprisingly, that took way over 40 hours of fun work.  If you’re able, hope you’ll join me.

Ranger Gaelyn in Grand Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI am excited about sharing the canyon’s geologic history.  I always hope it’s easier for people to love a place if they understand it better and can connect and become part of the story.  Now if I could just figure out how to take this show on the road, and get paid for it.  Yea, sorry, I’m still on that making an income thing.

Sunset Badwater Basin Death Valley National Park CaliforniaAnd another thing

Last night I attended a free presentation by photographer and writer Colleen Miniuk-Sperry on Finding your Creative Voice at the Wickenburg Arts Club.  We’ve been friends on Facebook for a little while and I admire her photography and her style.  Colleen is exuberant, and crazy by her own description, sharing her story to find her creative voice was inspirational.  She has one spot left in the Death Valley photography workshop in February that I would dearly love to attend.  Yet being a Park Ranger but without the hat, also means no income and therefore the workshop is out of my budget.

Long-horned beetle on Park Ranger hat North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMaybe someday, I can lead workshops myself and continue to be like a Park Ranger but without the hat.

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geology, Grand Canyon, Park Ranger geology, Grand Canyon, photographer, presentation, public speaking 30 Comments
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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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