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Tag: geology

15 June 2023

Wonderful spires of rock at Chiricahua National Monument

hoodoos view W Massai Pt Chiricahua NM AZChiricahua National Monument was established in 1924 by President Calvin Coolidge and 84% of this 12,025 acre monument is designated as wilderness.  In 1934 the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) began improving the road and building trails and structures.  Yet millions of years before a volcanic eruption began the geologic process that would ultimately create the spires, pillars, and hoodoos currently protected in Chiricahua National Monument.

old cars Lowell Dist Bisbee AZIt was almost the end of April when I left Bisbee and continued exploring southeastern Arizona.  Next stop Chiricahua National Monument.

Sulphur Springs Valley SR181 N AZ

Sulphur Springs Valley SR181 N AZThe drive to the foot of the Chiricahua Mountains crossing Sulphur Springs Valley was mostly agricultural land.

border patrol check pt SR181 N AZAnd because the area is within 30 miles of the border with Mexico there’s a check point which simply entails a quick stop and carry on.

Chiricahua NM mapOnce I entered Chiricahua National Monument there was a small cemetery for Erickson family members who settled here in 1888 building the Faraway Ranch, but their home was closed for renovations.  They were preceded by the Chiricahua Apaches as the first known people to occupy the area—and visited by the Spanish during the 1500s—before being relocated by the government in 1886.

Bonita Canyon Dr CHIR NM AZ

Bonita Canyon Dr CHIR NM AZI stopped at the visitor center and picked up my Junior Ranger book before taking the Bonita Canyon Drive eight miles up to its end at Massai Point, an 1170 foot climb on narrow road with a length restriction of 24 feet.  Mine is about 21 feet total.

hoodoos view W Massai Pt Chiricahua NM AZ

hoodoos Massai Pt Chiricahua NM AZThe views took my breath away.  The west view beyond a basin filled with rock spires or hoodoos, across the Sulphur Valley and to the Dragoon Mountains about 70 miles away, where I just came from.

hoodoos Massai Pt CHIR NM AZI could barely take it all in and the afternoon was waning plus I still had to find a nearby camp so I could return in the morning and walk at least a little of the 17 miles of trails.

Pinery Canyon Rd Chiricahua NF AZ

Pinery Canyon Rd Chiricahua NF AZI use several different apps to look for free dispersed/boondock camping sites and headed for the recommended Pinery Canyon Road in the adjacent Chiricahua National Forest.  Rough road took me 30 minutes to drive five miles before I found a primitive campground under the trees with absolutely no signal.

lizard Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZ

hoodoos Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZWaking to 40° inside the camper prompted me to leave early and return to Chiricahua’s Massai Point to walk a trail and get a closer look at this rock.

view N hoodoos lookout Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZ

view SW hoodoos Massai Pt CHIR NM AZRoughly 27 million years ago a cataclysmic volcanic eruption spewed ash and molten debris at super-sonic speeds and formed the approximately 12 mile wide Turkey Creek Caldera located just to the south of the monument.  Ash and debris settled and compacted, forming a thick layer of rock called rhyolite tuff. This rock layer has fissured and eroded over time, forming the spectacular rock pillars of Chiricahua National Monument.

stone overlook Massai Pt CHIR NM AZ

viewer hoodoos Massai Pt CHIR NM AZThe Massai nature trail features a unique stone built overlook with multiple-point viewer across almost 180°.

trees hoodoos Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZ

view W rock trees Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZThe trail is an easy walk over boulders and under trees with many interesting shapes along the way.

trees hoodoos trl Massai Pt CHIR NM AZ

Mexican Jay bird Chiricahua NM AZOf course at my rate of pace, the .5 mile nature trail took over an hour while taking photos and videos.

twisted Juniper tree bark Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZBeing I’m more of a saunterer than hiker I didn’t take on any of the other longer trails.  Plus I needed a new camp for the night.

Chiricahua hat pinChiricahua Jr Ranger badge

Gaelyn swearing in Jr Ranger badge CHIR NM AZI did return to the visitor center for my hat pin, sticker, and Junior Ranger badge.

boulders sunset clouds Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZThen I exited Chiricahua National Monument and drove north to Wilcox, Arizona where I filled a propane tank before heading to my next destination, the new to me, Indian Bread Rocks Recreation Area.  A whole different kind of geology, and that story will be coming next.

You can visit the national monument’s official website here https://www.nps.gov/chir/index.htm

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Arizona, Chiricahua National Monument, National Parks and Monuments, Places I've been, United States geology, history, national monument, travel 14 Comments
20 April 2021

Starting my third summer season at Bryce Canyon

Straight Cliffs Mossy Cave overflow parking Bryce Canyon National Park UtahJust a 1 1/2 hour drive from Fredonia I mostly moved in on Sunday and started my third summer season at Bryce Canyon Monday.  The first two weeks are mostly training.

Stellar Jay bird nest Juniper tree outside RV window Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFirst sign of Spring, Stellar Jays building a nest in the Utah Juniper outside my living room window.  If they decide to stay I expect it to be raucous, probably drive Sierra crazy and maybe me too.

Although certainly chilly compared to my recently accustomed desert temperatures it felt nice to be back in the “big house” under the pines.

First day of any new season is all about boring and slow official government paperwork, prove who you are with various forms of identification, agree to work for the gov, list a beneficiary, sign-up for healthcare, agree to pay rent, receive keys and badges, backpacks and safety equipment, and generally sign your life away for the next six months.  Out of an Interpretive staff of 11, six are here for their first summer season at Bryce Canyon.  All are excited to be here, learn about the park, and share with visitors.  My days off will be Thursday and Friday, and every other Saturday.  Hardest part of the day for me was wearing a mask all day long, something I’ve not done since last fall.  That and trying to stay warm outside, where the mask does help, wearing mega-layers.  Spring may be in the air but not at 8000 feet, someone needs to tell winter to go away.  Waking up to anything below freezing is miserable to me.

A fellow Ranger climbed up on the camper roof and took pics of the AC unit with missing shroud and I ordered a new shroud.  Then after work I climbed up on the 5th-wheel roof to mount the WeBoost.  Signal is not great but usually works better than without the booster.

new staff at geology training Inspiration Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahInformational training for the summer season at Bryce Canyon started Tuesday morning at Inspiration Point with two excellent geology speakers.

hoodoos snow clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThen we went to Sunset Point for two different examples of Hoodoo geology talks.  The afternoon was spent at the North Campground outside amphitheater going over some ways to interpret the natural and cultural history at Bryce.  After work I excitedly hooked up the heat-tape wrapped water-hose but water squirted everywhere from the standpipe.  So much for hot running water that night.

Southwest view from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next morning’s schedule took us 18 miles to the end of the scenic road and Yovimpa Point, the southern most overlook at Bryce.

Northeast view clouds Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe brutally cold wind sent us into the nearby historic shelter at Rainbow Point for more training about the Grand Staircase geology that we’ll talk about out there.

Gray Cliffs SR12 Utah

Calcite & clam fossils from Dakota member Gray Cliffs road cut SR12 Tropic UtahAfter lunch we caravanned downhill off the Paunsaugunt Plateau and past the town of Tropic for more geology info about the Gray Cliffs (one step below Bryce’s Pink Cliffs) where we stopped at a road cut revealing Dakota Member marine fossils.  Then another stop on the return to see a geologic fault from the new Mossy Cave overflow parking lot.

Came home to a replaced water standpipe and once again attached the hose.  But no water came into the house because the city water check valve needs replacing, again.  This time I ordered the brass fitting instead of plastic.  I told myself it was alright as the water would have to be turned off at night with temperatures hoovering around freezing.

trees snow clouds from RV door Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThursday morning I awoke to snow.  I stayed home teleworking while the troops went out to look at plants.  It snowed on and off with intermittent sunshine all day.  I should have gone to the rim but just couldn’t get warm enough to go outside.  These three shots were taken from the RV door, quickly as to let out the least heat, or is that the cold inside.

trees snow clouds from RV door Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAlso the next day.  So, I worked on the two programs I’m modeling next week about cultural history and wildlife.

Very difficult to keep this monster RV warm at freezing and below even with the maximum of three electric heaters running.  I ran the propane furnace a couple times briefly to take off the chill but it sucks down propane faster than I can keep the 7-gallon tanks full so not a full-time option.  Took all day to get tolerable then began to cool off again. Predicted low 19°. The warmest place to be was in bed.

trees snow clouds from RV door Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI had Saturday off work–guess what it snowed–and sort of arranged the big house and finished emptying clothes from the camper.  I’m sure to need a few more forgotten things.   Fortunately I was able to shower at a fellow employee’s house.  Still waiting for RV parts to have running water.

Ranger Gaelyn Bryce Canyon National Park Utah by J Parsons(I’m leaning on a piece of PVC used as a distance pointer on maps)

Sunday I worked in full uniform outside at the visitor center.  With highs in the 40s I had on so many layers could barely move.  Doesn’t feel like summer season at Bryce Canyon yet.  Monday through Friday will be more training opportunities to share.

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01 July 2020

Settling into a still changing routine at Bryce Canyon

trees hoodoos amphitheater Table Cliffs clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAlthough I am sort of settling into a routine at Bryce Canyon we are still introducing new services so schedules change and visitation continues to increase at the park.  Ranger programs are being expanded—but only if the individual feels comfortable and ready—including constellation tours Wednesday through Saturday.  Back-country trails opened July 1st.

trees rock SR89 Kanab UtahNormally, shopping is rather routine except when living in a remote place with a long scenic drive to services.  Last week I spent one of my three-day weekend driving 1 1/2 hours to Kanab for groceries.  Even better was visiting with a friend, who had been evacuated from the North Rim because of the Mangum Fire, over an outside lunch at my favorite Utah Mexican restaurant Escobars.  Shopping was adequate, lunch and company superb.

2020 Mangum burn by Jacob Lake InnSR89 Jacob Lake Inn photo

Friday, SR89A opened through Jacob Lake and the owners and staff of Jacob Lake Inn returned to clean and assess smoke damage from the Mangum Fire.  Two days later they were open for business but not overnight accommodations.  The North Rim Grand Canyon opened for day use June 30th.

Molly's Nipple & No Man's Mesa smoke from Wire Pass fire Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBack to work on Saturday took me to the southern end of the Paunsaugunt Plateau to Yovimpa Point where I managed two Grand Staircase geology talks before the light rain and heavy wind arrived.  New smokes were visible from the previous night’s lightning strike starting the Wire Pass Fire plus general haze from the Mangum Fire.  As of Monday the Wire Pass fire closed House Rock Valley Road from Utah SR89 south to Arizona SR89A.  And that also closed hiking by permit to The Wave.

view northeast from LaFevre overlook by Jacob Lake InnView northeast from LaFevre overlook along SR89 Kaibab National Forest from Jacob Lake Inn photo

As of Sunday morning, the Mangum Fire had reached 71,450 acres at 51% containment and July 1st report at same acreage and 67%.  Monday’s report on the Wire Pass Fire indicated no growth over the 1580 acres, 10% containment, and closures still in place.

I was home Sunday with an upset stomach and slept most of the day having been up half the night feeling nauseous.  Might have eaten some lunchmeat on the edge of bad.  Don’t know what else it could have been as my daily diet doesn’t change much.

Mountain Bluebird Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMountain Bluebird from Rainbow Point

While sitting at my computer, I dearly enjoy watching out the window where I see Chipmunks scurry from pinecone to cone, a pair of Stellar Jays follow from perch to perch and may even hear babies squawking.

Yet not so pleasant when home is the smell of the horse corral through open windows and the noise of tractors moving horse shit around and setting up dust.  In the winter I get really spoiled by almost exclusively the sounds of nature.

hikers hoodoos Wall Street Navajo Loop Trail Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahHikers on Wall Street side of the Navajo Loop Trail

Knowing I had nothing to spread around to others and how short on staff we are I returned to work on Monday feeling better throughout the day.  Scheduled for a 11am hoodoo geology talk near Sunset Point with groups of people keeping respectful distancing, and 1pm unadvertised Rim Walk that didn’t go so instead I roved the rim.  Then ended the day at the information tables outside the visitor center followed by three and a half hours counting people into the visitor center with a limit of 50.  “Yes mam, that does include the bathrooms.”

chipmunk & Haley in RV Bryce Canyon National Park Utah by HaleyRanger Haley and chippy selfie

As much as I love to watch the wildlife, I don’t want them in my house.  Coming home to find a chipmunk sitting on the back of the couch and Sierra, the not very good mouser, watching it from the floor didn’t make me happy.  Where do they get in?  RVs are notorious for small openings allowing in various uninvited small critters.

live trap in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I borrowed a small live-trap from the park’s wildlife folks.  Now set up with peanut butter but no chippy.  Anyone had luck with electric ultrasonic rodent/insect repellers?

hotshots Yarnell Hill Fire from Christopher Mackenzie's recovered cell phoneLate Tuesday afternoon, my Friday, I went roving at Bryce Point, one of my favorite overlooks in the park.  When roving I meet the most wonderful people: folks from Illinois who helped rebuild houses from the Yarnell Hill Fire, seven years ago June 30th when 19 firefighters died.   I met a most amazing family with intelligent and curious teenagers in tow.  People often ask about my last name.  I thought Olmsted was a common enough name and I do get asked if I have relatives in California, Florida and places in between.  Not that I know anyway.  Yet the name also brings to mind Frederick Law Olmsted who I claim as an ancestor and had a history with national parks.  Have I mentioned how much I love my job?

Although seeing an increase in visitation, I’m still enjoying the weirdly wonderful of a whole lot less people this strange summer, and I think visitors are also.  Overlooks are not overcrowded and that’s the way it should be.  I know it’s not like that at all national parks, and they’re not all open.  Of course at Bryce Canyon our typical international visitation makes up 65% of the 2.6 million who visited in 2019.  Compare that to 1929, the first year visitation was recorded, when 5,232 vehicles entered the one-year old Bryce Canyon National Park.  The last week of June 2020 averaged 1,260 vehicles a day.

face mask litter by Sunset parking lot and trail to rim Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNote the mask dropped as litter

I support “America’s Best Idea” behind preserving landscapes, environments, and history for “future generations” from around the world, where the idea has spread.  I don’t want to see anyplace loved to death by overcrowding.

multiple use trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMany of our national parks reached critical mass over a decade ago.  And so many parks were established in the 1920s when nobody envisioned the huge influx of visitors.  Parking lots are small.  Pull-outs built to accommodate maybe half a dozen cars and certainly not huge RVs.  Narrow windy roads through spectacular landscapes made for slow driving.  A few scattered small and intimate campgrounds for tents.  Possibly a few cabins and a lodge for dining.  One hundred years later, it’s much easier to travel in go fast cars and RVs.  Promotional events like the 2016 National Park Service’s Centennial #FindYourPark, Utah’s “Mighty Five”, and social media quickly spread the word.  I’m not judging any of these things as bad.  However, I believe we need more parks—and Rangers—to give visitors a safe and uncrowded experience.

By the way, my rim walk is a history talk about changing connections to the land through cultural and individual time.  I’m ready if you’ll join me, at a safe distance please.  Next week, July 3, 4, and 5 at 4pm starting by Sunset Point.  See you there.

Couch Ranger badgeMost recent addition to my collection of Ranger badges

 

“Visitation to units of the National Park System reached 318 million in 2018, an increase of about 16% from a decade ago, with especially notable increases over the last five years.  But within that system-wide increase, there is great variation among individual parks.  Visitation has increased steeply to some of the most famous parks in the country.  Arches, Zion, Glacier, Acadia, and Yellowstone National Parks, for example, have all experienced significant double-digit percentage increases in growth in visitation over the last decade or so – 30%, 50%, even 60% increases.”

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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