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Rim to Rim Grand Canyon hike Day 1 – Part 1

Gaelyn's backpack weighs 23 pounds North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMy pack weigh in 
Packed the night before our rim to rim Grand Canyon hike and I was sure Amy’s pack weighed much more than Jan or mine’s. But they were 24, 25, and 26 pounds. Not too bad. They did seem to get heavier along the way though.
Gaelyn, Amy & Jan North Kaibab trail head North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaGaelyn, Amy and Jan
Left about 9:30am and mid 40sF. FabGrandma drove us to the trailhead so we wouldn’t have to leave a car or walk an extra two miles. Thanks Karen!
Fall colors Roaring Springs Canyon North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaView into Roaring Springs Canyon from North Kaibab trailhead
The fall colors of Quaking Aspen and Rocky Mountain Maple were still brilliant as we quickly dropped in elevation through the Douglas-fir forest. The ladies were already in awe. They had driven in the night before and hadn’t even looked into the canyon.
View south from North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaNorth Kaibab trail into Roaring Springs Canyon
Our route began at 8250 feet (2515 meters) and it’s a 3000 foot (930 meters) drop to the intersection of Bright Angel Canyon.
Only 10 miles (16.1 km) across as the Condor flies.
Mule riders at Coconino overlook North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMule riders on Coconino overlook
It’s .7 miles (1.1 km) to this first great overlook. Many day hikers come this far. The overlook sits at the bottom of the Toroweap limestone deposited some 270 million years ago by an inland sea and on top of the Coconino sandstone formed by dunes some 275 million years ago.
North Rim from North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFall colors below the Coconino sandstone
Two miles (3.2 km) down it was almost 60F where we removed layers at the Supai Tunnel, blasted into the rock by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) during the 1930s. Also used the services, compost toilet, and topped off water bottles for the 4 miles (6.4 km) to the Roaring Springs Ranger residence where the next water was available. Unfortunately the water spigot at Roaring Springs only 3 miles (4.8 km) away had been broken most of the summer.
Redwall bridge below North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaLooking down to the Redwall Bridge
The habitat below the tunnel changes to a pinyon-juniper woodland with cliff rose, broadleaf yucca, Utah serviceberry and rabbitbrush. The stair-stepped red rock of the Supai Group formed between 315 and 285 million years ago.
Still a long way to go ladies.
Fossil in Supai group North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFossil of possibly a conifer
The Supai reveals a variety of rock reflecting changes in coastal conditions as sea levels fluctuated.
Calcite crystals North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaCalcite crystals
Conglomerate North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaConglomerate of pebbles
Geology interpretation sign North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
We crossed the Redwall Bridge into a desert environment and continued hiking down canyon to our camp for the night at Cottonwood.
Grand Canyon National Park, National Parks and Monuments , , , , 42 Comments

Toroweap, a remote western view of Grand Canyon

Scrapes on slickrock Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Scrape marks on the slick rock that’s called road, not ours

After the five hour drive over washboard then slick rock road we pulled into a full campground at Toroweap around 5pm.

Campsite Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

A fellow camper offered us parking in his large space as rules allow two vehicles per site.  He pulled out the next morning.

Sunset E Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Had a quick spaghetti dinner then walked the 1 mile (1.6 km) to the Toroweap overlook for sunset.

Sunset upriver Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

No disappointment here looking upstream.

Side canyon on South Rim feeds into Colorado River Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Then we boulder hopped along the rim towards the west looking straight down about 3000 feet (914 meters) into the Colorado River.

Downstream West Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

By the time we got to a good overlook downstream the light was gone, but the view sure wasn’t.

Darkling beetle Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

We walked back to camp by flashlight and saw this darkling beetle scurrying across our path.  Sure glad it wasn’t one of the many snakes reportedly seen by the camphost.

Juniper at the rim looking East Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

The next morning after breakfast we walked back to the rim again.

Tuweep Point Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Toroweap sits at an elevation of 4600 feet (1400 meters) on a landform known as the Esplanade, a flat shelf situated about halfway between the coniferous forests of the North Rim and the hot canyon bottom.

Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

A chaparral community thrives in Toroweap Valley with juniper and pinyon, sagebrush and saltbush, Mormon tea and other woody shrubs, and various grasses.

View East Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Nearer the Esplanade succulent cacti, yucca, and agave predominate.

Up stream Colorado River Tuweep Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Upstream

At less than one mile across the canyon to the Hualapai Indian Reservation on the South Rim, this is one of narrowest and deepest segments of the inner canyon.

Supai sandstone bedding planes and erosion Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Sandstone bedding planes and erosion

The colorful redrock from the Hermit shale and Supai sandstones to the east…

Down stream Colorado River Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

…contrasts with the black, basaltic lava flows to the west.

Lava eroding off Hermit shale at Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

More than a dozen times in the last 7 million years lava spilled over the canyon rim damming the Colorado River.

Lava Falls rapid Colorado River Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

The river eroded these lava dams and continued its downward cutting to where it is now 50 feet (15 meters) deeper than the base of the ancient dams.

Down stream Colorado River Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Downstream

As the sun rose higher so did the temperatures.

Mike Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

We just couldn’t hang around during the heat of the day.

Erosion in Supai sandstone by camp Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Eroded sandstone

So we headed back to camp for lunch in the afternoon shade of a large boulder next to our site.

Water pocket on slickrock Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

On the way we saw water pockets in the slick rock.  When moisture fills these pools fairy and horseshoe shrimp, tiny frogs and microscopic organisms emerge from the muddy bottoms.

Cryptobiotic soil Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

It is important to walk only on the trail as the surrounding ground supports a rare and sensitive crusty black cryptobiotic soil.  This complex community of lichens, algae, and bacteria takes years to grow.

Down stream Colorado River Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Downstream

After hanging out in camp being lazy all day, we once again headed to the rim for sunset.

Up stream Colorado River thru snag Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Upstream

I just couldn’t stop taking photos.

Gaelyn looking up stream at Colorado River Toroweap Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Nor did I want to leave.

Road from Toroweap Bureau of Land Management Arizona

But in the morning we hit the dusty road for the long drive back.

Old homestead along road from Toroweap Arizona

At least we didn’t end up like this.

Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, National Parks and Monuments, Tuweep/Toroweap , , , 18 Comments

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