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Tag: Coyote Buttes North

14 September 2015

The Wave and so much more wilderness

Many people make a big deal about going to see The Wave, struggling to get one of the 20 daily permits.  Yet Coyote Buttes North in the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness is so much more than just the “feature” as Bill calls it.

Approaching The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaAfter the 3.7 mile hike from Wire Pass Trailhead through dry wash, sand and over contoured slick rock we approached The Wave with its sinuous lines of sandstone, like many others we’ve passed.

View N from The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaLooking back I could barely believe we made it.  But we’re really not there yet.

Water pool below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona

Water pool below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaWe had yet to walk around the water and look at the feature and beyond.

Banded colored sandstone Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaHow to describe The Wave?  Bands of mineral colors flow over the sandstone mounds worn by eons of water and wind.  Nature’s art at its best.  But why is it all about The Wave?  Everywhere I looked there was so much beauty.

Bill by pool below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaBill first visited the as yet unnamed Wave in 1977, a year after starting his position with BLM (Bureau of Land Management) in Kanab, Utah.  This feature was known to only the few people who lived relatively nearby.  He visited the landscape a number of times.  During the wilderness inventory three years later in Utah, Coyote Buttes North was included due to wilderness character.  Later, while National Geographic put together the book Our Threatened Inheritance they sent a photographer with BLM employees who took them over Davis Pass to the feature, during the winter, under a promise of not disclosing the location of the area.  Yet when the story and photo proofs came out it was labeled “Coyote Buttes” and under insistence from BLM the name was dropped and the location was only alluded to.   The Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness was established in 1984 and a plan was created to allow only two groups of four into the feature daily.

Tadpoles Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaWe’d been told not to disturb the pools to protect rare desert species.  Who’d have thought we’d see tadpoles the size of golf balls.

The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaSo we skirted around the water climbing on the rock and just around the corner, there it was, The Wave.  We climbed to the top for the better view looking down.  Other hikers were polite about taking photos and then staying out of each others views.

Gaelyn above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaThree young German visitors had hiked past us on the way in and we saw them again when we arrived along with three others sitting in the little bit of shade offered by a sandstone wall near the pool.  We took our turn and I posed at the top ready to surf down The Wave.

The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaA last look before climbing higher up to have lunch in the shade of a giant sandstone boulder.  Must have been close to 100F (38C).

Water pool above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaThat pool of water looked mighty inviting.

Sandstone mound above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona Bill had concerns about the site being over visited.  Motivated by a proposal to increase fees he became a volunteer so he could access and report any possible problems.  It’s not so much the feature as the surrounding area and it’s difficult to impossible to visit because only 20 permits are issued per day.  He was curious about how the site was withstanding a steady visitation even if it’s limited, if impacts and changes were occurring.  Of course, for safety purposes I went with him.

Bill below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaExcept for some of the signage going in and footprints on sandy areas he didn’t notice any visible damage.  We picked up only three pieces of micro-trash.  People seem aware and respect the landscape.  He was pleasantly surprised and had thought it would have been more impacted.

View west above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaWilderness is suppose to provide opportunities for primitive and unconfined recreation with solitude and a connectedness to the landscape which could be negatively impacted by over visitation.  How many of us truly get a chance to experience wilderness?

Top Rock above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona

On top of The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaAnd this wilderness is vast, covering 112,500 acres with so much space we should be able to immerse ourselves and never see another person.  Unfortunately this feature has been heavily promoted and focuses people to just one small piece of this hugely delicious pie.

Bill & Gaelyn's feet Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaIn fact pie would have tasted extra good for lunch but instead we settled with PBJ on flat bread, chips and olives along with copious amounts of water in a sliver of shade leaning on a huge sandstone formation.

View west above The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona

We had planned to explore beyond the feature but instead sat and absorbed the 360 degree views.  Until the shade disappeared and we could really feel the heat.  That’s when I couldn’t resist the water and soaked my shirt before heading back to the feature and the return hike.  We were both very careful not to disturb any creatures.

The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona

The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaI’ll bet land-forms every bit as intriguing as The Wave exist in this vastly unique sandstone terrain.  Yet with no camping in the Coyote Buttes Wilderness I’d have to be a faster hiker to journey much further.

Bill by pool below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaBill made the walk around the pool look easy but I struggled a bit.  That sandstone is more slippery than it looks.

Pool below The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaThe pools of water look just as foreign to the land today as they would have millions of years ago when these rocks were sand dunes.

View south from The Wave Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaThe return walk went a little quicker.

Pools Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahBill spotted two shallow pools of water to re-soak our shirts and they were dry in about 10 minutes.

Swirling sandstone Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahEven though I’d paid close attention looking behind me on the hike in I saw the landscape with different eyes on the way back.  The map with photos showed landmarks for the return that were easy to spot and although I led the way in Bill lead the way out.

Bill on trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahLeft the trailhead at 8:30am, arrived at The Wave at 11:45, after lunch, and of course more photos, left at 2pm and got back to the truck at 5.

I have to agree with Bill, the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness is so much more than just The Wave.  Every step along the trail brought new wonders of rock and far views.  And we barely scratched the surface of what this wilderness landscape has to offer.

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Arizona Coyote Buttes North, hike, hiking, Northern Arizona, red rock, southern Utah, The Wave 28 Comments
09 September 2015

Hike to The Wave Coyote Buttes North

The Wave Coyote Buttes North Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaWe really tried to get an early start, or at least earlier than usual.  Yet it’s an 1 1/2 hour drive from Kanab to the Wire Pass Trailhead, Utah is an hour later than Arizona, and it’s my day off.  But Bill and I were determined to hike to The Wave.

BLM mapWhen you receive one of the 20 permits issued daily to enter Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness you go through an orientation with a BLM Ranger that takes place in the Kanab Visitor Center.  This includes a safety talk and a map with photos directing you to The Wave.  Bill volunteers with BLM and patrols the area that includes Coyote Buttes North and took me in for an unofficial orientation.  We were given the map and he wanted me to lead the way in by their method as I’d never been there before.  So I was there for safety and to test the material for ease of use.  Which I did and found it easy to identify the landmarks.

House Rock Valley Rd 1065 Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahThe 8 mile drive from SR89 on the gravel House Rock Valley Road, BLM Rd 1065, is a delight winding past the Cockscomb to the Wire Pass Trailhead.  However, 4×4 with high clearance is suggested and after rain or snow the road may be impassable.  For us it was in decent shape except for the Buckskin crossing which was a deep damp dip that Bill’s 4×4 handled with ease.

Coyote Buttes North trailhead Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Utah

Collared Lizard Wire Pass trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahWe started from the Wire Pass Trailhead 1/2 mile down Coyote Wash to the Coyote Buttes North trail, an easy walk with collared lizard pointers along the way.

Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Utah

Small saddle Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahUp a hill and across a sandy plain I looked for the first landmark of a sandstone ridge with a small saddle.

Sandstone Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahFrom there we walked across slick rock making our own path.  That’s nice because of the reduced impact from a specified trail.

Bill & Teepees in disance Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahOnce we crossed the saddle the Teepees could be seen in the far distance as our next landmark (far horizon just right of center).  The entire landscape beckoned me to wander into.

North Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahYet it was equally important to look behind and note landmarks for the return hike.

Sandstone cliffs Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahWe followed at the base of a sandstone cliff on our right as instructed.

 Twin Buttes Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahThe next landmark was Twin Buttes which we hiked to the right of.

Sandstone Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahSurrounded by Navajo Sandstone, 200 million year old sand dunes, with surreal swirls of sandstone in multicolored hues of red, pink, orange, maroon, white and yellow displayed the cross patterns of bedding planes.  The spectacular ribbons of various colors called Liesegang bands, were formed by movement and precipitation of oxidizing minerals such as iron and manganese by ground water.  Thin veins of calcite cut across the sandstone, adding another dimension to the landscape.  Everything around us was breathtaking.

View south from Twin Buttes Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahComing down from Twin Buttes the landscape spread out in front of us.

Vertical crevice Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness UtahNext the vertical crevice in the white formation in the distance was a long-range navigation point.  The Wave is located just beneath this crevice.

Sandstone Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaMore gorgeous sandstone everywhere along the way.  By now we’d crossed from Utah into Arizona, I’d taken 100s of photos and had to use a second 16GB mem card.

Vertical crevice above The Wave Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Arizona

The Wave Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness AriszonaFinally we could see the gap between two small sand dunes we needed to climb and people in The Wave far away.  Well we could see it through the zoom lens anyway.

Sand Cove Wash below The Wave Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaBut we still had to cross Sand Cove Wash to the base of a steep sandy hill.

View south below The Wave Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaWhat an amazing view from where we’d hiked.  And I led us there without getting lost.

Willow Sand Cove Wash Coyote Buttes trail Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness ArizonaWe’d left Wire Pass Trailhead at 9:15am and arrived at The Wave around 11:45.  It was a hot 3.2 mile hike with limited shade.  One large lovely willow in Sand Cove Wash provided us respite before the last big climb to The Wave.

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Arizona, Utah Coyote Buttes North, The Wave 17 Comments

Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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