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Tag: Columbia River Gorge

19 November 2014

Highways and byways along the Columbia River Gorge

Columbia River view from Vista House Crown Point Columbia R Gorge Scenic Highway OregonBeing the Columbia River carved through the Cascade Mountains to create the closest route to sea level it’s not surprising that Lewis and Clark took this water option on their journey west.  But today there are three road options and two railways that parallel the river in the two states that border it.  Washington and Oregon both offer highways and byways along the Columbia River Gorge.

Columbia River Gorge I84 OregonThe Freeway

Low clouds on Mountains Columbia River Gorge I84 OregonIt was a gray day with clouds hanging low on the mountains.  Yet the fall colors marching up the hillsides rocky cliffs brought light to the day.  Berta and I took Interstate 84 east from Troutdale to Cascade Locks traveling about half the 75 mile Columbia River Gorge.   Although providing scenic views there’s no place to pull over except for the Multnomah Falls exit where we didn’t stop.

Waterfall Columbia River Gorge I84 OregonAs a passenger I looked longingly at multiple waterfalls along the way.

Bridge of the Gods Columbia River Gorge Cascade Locks OregonWe crossed the mighty Columbia on Bridge of the Gods paying our $1 toll to Oregon.  I call this the “hum” bridge as the metal grid brings song to the tires.

Washington 14

After visiting a friend we returned west on State Route 14 and I thought about all the times I’ve driven this route, although it had been a while.  Back in 1996/97 I worked for US Fish and Wildlife living in Underwood on the east end of the Gorge.  The following summer I lived and sold at a flea market in Carson.  It’s simple rural country like you know I love but did mean a drive for shopping to either Vancouver or Hood River with Gorge-ous views along the way.

Low clouds & fall colors Columbia River Gorge SR14 WashingtonOne of the best things about driving on the Washington side of the river is looking across at the Oregon side.

Fall colors Columbia River Gorge Historic Scenic Highway OregonScenic Highway

Finally, on our last full day in Oregon we drove east under increasingly heavy skies on the Historic Columbia River Highway.  Considering the lack of sun the glowing fall leaves gave off an almost eerie glow.  And the wet leaf covered roadway could be slick but it’s a slow drive.  Built between 1913-22, as the first planned scenic roadway in the US to be modeled after the great scenic roads of Europe and designed with an elegance that took full advantage of all the natural beauty along the route.  Grades, curvature, distance and even expense were sacrificed to reach some scenic vista or to develop a particularly interesting point.  Imagine driving this in a Model-T.

Vista House Historic Columbia River Highway Crown Point OregonFirst stop, barely between the rain drops, Vista House built in 1918 on Crown Point as a rest stop observatory.  The Vista House was designed as an example of modern German architecture, or the German equivalent of Art Nouveau.  The gray sandstone structure is 44 feet in diameter and 55 feet high standing out as a landmark from both sides of the river.  Commercial activities, like concession gift shops, have operated here since it’s opening.  Then in 1982 the Friends of Vista House was formed by a group of community volunteers and in cooperation with the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department operate the building in a more interpretive manner.  Unfortunately it’s only open on weekends so we could only peek in the windows.  The first photo shows a view from Vista House that would certainly be better on a clear day.

Latourell Falls Guy W Talbot State Park Columbia River Historic Scenic Highway OregonLatourell Falls Guy W Talbot State Park

Instead we dealt with the rain making a few quick stops at easily accessed viewpoints.  Upon completion of the highway in 1915, many generous landowners donated property in an act to preserve and share the splendor and create scenic stops along the way.

Multnomah Falls Columbia River Gorge OregonBy time we got to the famous giant of Multnomah Falls the rain had seriously increased and Berta almost didn’t come for a look.  I couldn’t help it.  I was drawn to the sound of the thundering water.  Trying to hold the camera under my rain jacket yet still got tiny water drops on the lens.  Multnomah Falls is the second highest year-round waterfall in the US and one of 77 on the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge.  Created by underground springs from Larch Mountain the falls plunge off steep basalt cliffs 543 feet to the upper pool then another 69 feet before flowing into the Columbia River.

Monk by Multnomah Falls Columbia River Gorge OregonI paused to allow for the photo of the monk by his two companions then couldn’t resist one myself due to the bright colored wrap that almost matched the fall colors.  I usually take landscape photos, trying to leave people out.  Yet this was definitely ‘the’ photo of the day.  At least the rain reduced the crowd.

Historic Columbia River Gorge Scenic Highway OregonWe didn’t stay very long or continue east for more scenic opportunities and instead returned on the scenic highway driving slowly in the rain on the oil slicky leaves.  We stopped at the Tippy Canoe where we split a huge burger for lunch.

Train

Before locomotives and 45 years after Lewis and Clark braved the Columbia River, Hardin Chenowith built the first railroad in what would eventually be Washington.  A wagon on wood rails pulled by a single mule assisted early settlers around the Columbia’s rapids in 1851 for 75 cents for every 100 pounds of freight.  Between 1855 and 1862 Joseph Ruckel and Harrison Olmstead operated a similar operation on the south side of the river.  (Wonder if he’s an ancestor of mine.)  This was followed by the first steam engine in the Pacific Northwest called the “Oregon Pony”.  By 1908 the Great Northern Railway and Northern Pacific Railroad completed a line along the north side of the Columbia River.

Today the Mount Hood Railroad offers scenic excursions along Oregon rails including trail robberies, murder mysteries and a polar express.

Mt Hood & Columbia River Underwood WashingtonRail lines run between the highways and the river in both states.  My Fish & Wildlife housing looked across the Columbia River and sat about 100 feet from the Washington SR14.  Those trains ran every 22 minutes.

Bonneville Dam Columbia RiverThe River

Once thought to be the Northwest Passage, this powerful river of the west begins in British Columbia, Canada and flows 1200 miles to the Pacific Ocean at Astoria.  The second largest river in North America has been altered over time from the raging waters Lewis and Clark faced to a languishing series of pools between hydroelectric dams.  Steamboats, railroads, and highways replaced canoes and rafts.  Barges hauling grain, livestock, lumber, fruit, and vegetables still ply the water’s today.

Sternwheeler Columbia Gorge Cascades Locks Columbia River OregonSteamboat excursions are available out of Portland and Cascade Locks.  In 2006 I enjoyed a champagne brunch aboard the Columbia Gorge out of Cascade Locks.

Basalt along the Columbia River WashingtonThe Gorge

Because I love rocks here’s a brief geology of the gorge.  So, about 40-20 million years ago thousands of volcanic eruptions piled layers of volcanic ash, lava, and mudflows over this region.  Millions of years later, mudflows poured off those volcanoes, covering the land with hundreds of feet of ash, boulders, and cobbles.  17-12 million years ago volcanic cracks in the earth’s crust spread lava across the region up to 2,000 feet (600 meters) deep frequently cooling into columnar basalt.  2 million to 700,000 years ago hundreds of volcanoes erupted during uplift of the Cascade mountain range and the Columbia River carved out a deep gorge.  During the last ice age 16,000-14,000 years ago a 2,000 foot (600 meters) high ice dam that blocked the river collapsed hundreds of times allowing for quick floods to scour the Gorge.

Blueberry Farm Corbett OregonColumbia River Gorge National Scenic Area

Even if you’re not into the geology, the Gorge offers miles of hiking through lush forests, past waterfalls and streams with distant views of the Cascade Mountains.  The Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area was established in 1986 to protect and enhance the scenic, natural, cultural, and recreational resources of the Columbia River Gorge encompassing 292,500 acres, approximately 85 miles long and approximately 4,000 feet deep.  There’s a lot going on in these acres including wilderness areas, 13 cities, 6 counties, 4 developed campgrounds, 13 state parks, 2 National Trails, 57 Forest Service trails with a combined length of 218 miles, 53 waterfalls, 2 scenic rivers, over 800 species of wildflowers, more than 200 species of birds, and many species of large and small animals.  Whatever your interests, you just can’t go wrong here.

Moss on tree & fall colors Columbia River Gorge OregonAfter a week in Oregon, Berta described the weather as “drippy” and says if a building hasn’t been painted in the last week it needs it.  Yet there wouldn’t be the lush growth, waterfalls and rivers without that drip.  Every season is gorgeous in the Gorge.  Summer can be very busy with 2 million visitors a year.  Yet there are so many options, by road, rail, water or foot.  And although a little ‘drippy’ I found fall a gorgeous time to visit.

19 Gorge map from usda

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Oregon Columbia River Gorge 31 Comments
23 February 2009

The Gypsy life of a seasonal Park Ranger Summer and Fall 2006

Weaver Mountains Yarnell Arizona
Moon over Yarnell
My gypsy life and winter in Yarnell was over before I knew it, and it was time to return to my…
Gaelyn in visitor center Oregon Caves National Monument Oregon
Gaelyn in Visitor Center 2006 by S. Gladish
…alter-life as a seasonal Park Ranger at Oregon Caves National Monument. But I did more than lead cave tours.
Wild Rhododendron along Myrtle Creek Trail Oregon
Wild Rhododendron along Myrtle Creek Trail
Spring hiking through the Redwoods less than 30 miles away and on the road to the California coast offers biological diversity because of the unique geology.
Darlingtonia Oregon
Darlingtonia are carnivorous
Metamorphic serpentine—a soft waxy rock used for carving—is characteristic of unusual flora and toxic to many plants due to a lack of essential nutrients and high concentrations of heavy metals.
Chateau Oregon Caves National Monument Oregon
Historic Oregon Caves Chateau
After three seasons learning about the cultural history of the area and monument I felt confident enough to develop a living history program.
Gaelyn in Chateau coffee shop Oregon Caves National Monument Oregon
Gaelyn/Darlene with visitors in Chateau coffee shop
I created a composite character of a woman, Darlene (borrowed from a dear friend of the right age), who presumably worked in the Chateau for Oregon Caves Company, a private concessionaire, in 1953.
Gaelyn in Chateau lobby Oregon Caves National Monument Oregon
Gaelyn/Darlene with visitors in Chateau lobby
Dressed as 73 year old Darlene and in character, I shared stories from the past while encouraging visitors to create their own memories as we toured the historic Chateau.
Gaelyn and Darlene on sternwheeler Columbia River
Gaelyn and Darlene onboard
In September I took a long weekend to visit the real Darlene and we celebrated her birthday…
Sternwheeler Columbia River
The Columbia Gorge
…onboard a sternwheeler on the Columbia River out of Cascade Locks, Oregon.
Stevenson Washington from Columbia River
View of Stevenson, Washington from the river
Tie dying in Oregon
Learning to tie-die
Over the summer a friend taught me how to tie-die (I know, where was I in the 60s) as we increased her stock…
Barter Fair Takilma Oregon
Welcome to Barter Fair
…so we could share space at the fall Hope Mountain Barter Fair where I’d sell my jewelry and other stuff.
Barter Fair booth Takilma Oregon
Barter Fair booth
Giant puppets at Hope Mountain Barter Fair Takilma Oregon
Having fun at the Fair
And when the Fair was over I knew winter was coming to Oregon so I would be moving on to warmer climates.

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My gypsy life, Oregon, Oregon Caves NM and Chateau Barter Fair, Columbia River Gorge, Park Ranger 29 Comments

Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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