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Tag: Colorado River

19 June 2017

North Rim Cape Royal Road offers multiple views of Grand Canyon

May 30, 2017

As a North Rim Ranger I usually tell visitors to drive the 23 miles to the end of the Cape Royal Road first then work their way back, stopping at the multiple overlooks on the right side of the road for safety.  Good advice, but I planned for sunset at Cape Royal so stopped at several of the viewpoints on the way instead.

cars along SR67 North near North Kaibab trail head North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaDrove past the North Kaibab trail head where because the parking lot would have been full many vehicles park along the road.  Lots of rim to rim hikers in the spring and some day hikers go down maybe a mile or two.  Actually, only 1% of visitors get over the rim.  Yet parking lots are small at the North Rim where only 10% of the six million visit Grand Canyon National Park.

2000 Outlet Fire Cape Royal Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAt the turn off onto the Cape Royal Road the 2000 Outlet Fire is visible where hillsides of young aspen glow.

2016 Fuller Fire & 2000 Outlet Fire Cape Royal Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaQuite the contrast between the 16 year old Outlet burn and last year’s Fuller burn seen on the left.

trees Mount Hayden Point Imperial North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaA hazy view greeted me at Point Imperial caused by wind blown smoke from prescribed burns on the south side of the canyon near the town of Tusayan just south of the park.

burnt trees from 2016 Fuller Fire Point Imperial North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMore evidence of the Fuller Fire could also be seen.

Larkspur Point Imperial North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaYet after a fire the wildflowers are often bountiful like these Larkspur.

Greenland Lake North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaSecond stop, Greenland Lake which was surprisingly full of water.

snag Colorado River from Walhalla overlook North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThe view at Walhalla overlook was still a bit hazy.  But could still see the Colorado River at Unkar rapid and delta.  Everybody’s favorite tree to pose by makes me nervous when I see people lean on it or sit on one of the very dead branches.

Angels Window from Cliff Spring parking North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaStopped at the Cliff Spring trail parking for a view of Angels Window.  There is a short spur off the Cape Royal trail to walk on top of the fin with the window.

late light Wotans Throne from Wedding site North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaBut I chose to go to the wedding site for my picnic dinner and to watch the light and shadow play plus sunset.

sunset Wotans Throne from Wedding site North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

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Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, National Parks and Monuments, Places I've been, United States 2000 Outlet fire, 2106 Fuller fire, Angels Window, Cape Royal, Cliff Spring trail head, Colorado River, Greenland Lake, Point Imperial, Unkar delta, Walhalla overlook, Wedding site 21 Comments
14 November 2016

Colorado River teaches life lessons

Colorado River from Lippan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWhether looking deep into the inner chasm carved by water, at a wall of concrete restraining the water, or watching the swift flow of water, the Colorado River teaches life lessons for me about life’s journey, lack of control, and ultimately the freedom to flow.  Because water is life, and life is about learning.

Colorado River to Echo Cliffs from Lippan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Life is always about the journey

Bill and I met at the South Rim Thursday for the weekend events of the Grand Canyon Historic Society, more on that event soon.  We had all day Friday to play tourist at the canyon even able to walk Sasha on the Rim Trail.  Although not as crowded as summer, still busy enough I chose not to venture onto overlooks.  I am reminded about life’s journey that brought me to this special place to be enjoyed with a special person, and dog.  This gentles me to the hordes who have also journeyed here.  I can distance myself like the Colorado River so far below, ancient and wise it has carved through billions of years of rock revealing a geologic story of change.  The Grand Canyon is a destination for many yet the river below tells of a journey longer than any of us have traveled.  I felt the need to learn from the river, about rapids and riffles like the bumps along life’s journey, then flow on with constant change along the way.  No need to rush the final destination.  Life flows far too swiftly to the end with changes along the way and we have choices to make.

We have limited control

Sunset Lake Powell Lone Rock campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Utah

Moon at sunset Lake Powell Lone Rock campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area UtahYet here we were, Sunday afternoon caravaning east along the rim with only a few viewpoint stops.  Instead we focused on getting to Lone Rock Beach camp along the shrunken Lake Powell before dark, just barely.

Monday morning at Glen Canyon Dam I looked for a good place to see, and photograph, the water release.  A patio behind the visitor center offered a very crowded and limited view, especially for short people like me.  Saw the first of four tubes release water.  The bridge is right on top of the tubes.  I felt frustrated by the lack of visibility.

 

 

2-tube water release Glen Canyon Dam overlook Page ArizonaA friend and Ranger recommended the Dam overlook which provided a good window and big show, although I could wish for a bigger lens for really closeups.  I was not disappointed.  The sound was clear.  The vibe and energy beyond good to Grand.  The water’s negative ions brought positive energy.  Saw two tubes running, then went to lunch.  Looked into staying at Marriott with my reward points but not enough of them for this #7 fancy smancy place.  Oh well, go with the flow.  No control, even with the best laid plans, shit happens, we adapt.  Plans change for all kinds of reasons, sometimes by choice and other times not.

4-tube water release Glen Canyon Dam overlook Page ArizonaReturned to the Dam overlook to see all four tubes shooting out water.  The Colorado River then flowed at ~38,000 cfs (normally ~13,000 cubic feet per second).  More like the wild river it once was before the dam of man altered its temperature, salinity and ecology.  Yet the river does not judge the dam.

Floatsom Colorado River Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaFloatsom washes ashore like discarded junk from our lives maybe picked up again and dropped further down stream.  Sand and sediments are moved and redeposited in the hopes of rebuilding sandbars and deltas.  And yet, if too fine they’ll be moved again.  If large they may be dropped early on.

Colorado River just below Glen Canyon Dam overlook Page ArizonaLife is full of contrasts like the deep blue-green river against towering sandstone cliff faces topped by a clear Arizona blue sky.  It can all change in a minute.  Do we judge nature’s changes as good or bad, beautiful or ugly?  Maybe there’s no room in the NOW for fear, anger, and hatred.  Even if we have no control over change we can control how we react and deal with it.  There is power in that.

Two Red-tailed hawks Glen Canyon Dam overlook Page Arizona

Political rampage

I don’t usually talk about politics.  In fact as a young person I said “politics weren’t part of my reality.”  As I matured I did figure out that they were.  I never chose a party, Republican or Democrat.  I’ve always been  Independent.  Until I had to choose from the two to vote in a Primary.  And so I chose to be a Democrat.  Which to me is in name only.  And I do realize that they both have different agendas that I don’t always agree with and I’m sure some of you don’t either.  I’m about to be more opinionated in politics than ever but I have no intention to offend anyone and will not apologize for my opinions and feelings.  Read on if you choose.

Probably comes as no surprise that I supported Bernie Sanders.  I didn’t have to vote Democratic.  Except for the fact the Republican Presidential candidate I find very scary in all his pomp about fear, anger, and hatred.  And I don’t want to live in a World like that.  No judging people by the color of their skin, religion, sexual orientation or anything else.  The river doesn’t judge a rock or tree.

I have been uncertain about the future of our country for decades.  In fact I’ve been waiting for a revolution like the 60s, since the 60s.  However, now I feel even more confusion about what the future will see.  And yet I know I can get my calm by reconnecting to nature.

It seems we’re always in a hurry, rushing off to our next destination.  Something the river does as well.  Yet to its final death where it meets the sea.  Sometimes the river experiences slow, swirling back on itself in an eddy to search out something that needs more attention.  Around, around, and around until a solution is found and release sent on to the journey of life.

Think about when you’re making big ultimate goal plans and how things change like a dam gets put in the way and you need to fight for the right to flow like the wild river you are.  The babble of the river is audible.  It may speak different words and language to all who will listen.  Be careful that the ceaseless babble of the river doesn’t become the white noise of your life.

I will try to work with instead of against this quasi Democracy where We the People can make change by respectfully working together.

Colorado River upstream shadow Navajo bridge Marble Canyon Arizona

Be free to follow your heart

California Condor #54 girders Navajo bridge Marble Canyon ArizonaSwirls & sediments Colorado River below Navajo bridge Marble Canyon Arizona

Monday afternoon we drove down from Page to Marble Canyon with a stop at Navajo Bridge where we saw two condors roosting on the bridge girders and sedimentary swirls in the river below.

Upstream Colorado River view from Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Colorado River view from Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Downstream Colorado River view from Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaWe set up camp at Lee’s Ferry and sat enjoying the river view as the westering sun put on a show of light and shadows.

Colorado River River trail Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaThe next morning we hiked up river.  I was surprised to see the river still so blue when it dawned on me we were only seven miles downstream from the dam.  The water was high and moving swiftly along.

Truckcamper & Colorado River Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Debris on rock Colorado River Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Colorado River Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaCactus Wren Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaIn the afternoon Bill left for home and I decided to stay then followed him 10 miles down the road to Cliff Dwellers for lunch but they were closed.  So I returned to camp and explored the beach by the Paria Riffles.  I was joined by a Canyon Wren singing its song and paid scant attention to the news of the day.

Last light Colorado River from Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Sunset Lee's Ferry campground Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaWarm sunset temperatures made it possible to sit outside until well after dark.

Wednesday morning I read the election results in shock.  I felt confused and couldn’t focus.  It was like my brain absolutely shut down.  I could not think.  Should I leave or stay?  Where to go, what to do?  Down to the beach, be with the river.

Chatted with a fellow Ranger who felt as shocked as I and encouraged me to stay another day.

Sediment swirls Colorado River Navajo bridge Marble Canyon Arizona

California Condor Navajo Bridge Marble Canyon Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

California Condor Navajo Bridge Marble Canyon Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

California Condor Navajo Bridge Marble Canyon Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

California Condor Navajo Bridge Marble Canyon Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaBut I left camp and drove five miles to Navajo Bridge, where I saw Condor #54 a 12 year-old male.  Talk about wild and free.  Soaring over rock and river.  Warmth of sunshine and Condor soaring mingled with swirling sediments called me to stay.  I returned to pay for another night of camping.

Gaelyn's feet Paria Riffles Colorado River Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaThen I spent the day with the river.  Found a couple of boulder-seats to take in the view, sound, and feel.  My fingers went quickly numb as I dipped them into a shoreline eddy where the water felt like cold silk.  My mind was also numb as I tried to wrap my head around the election results.  I don’t want to go backwards to a time of discrimination like being caught in a river eddy.  Enough human caused floatsom comes ashore our ocean, lake and river shores defiling the life of nature that supports us.  That’s all of us.  All people of the Earth.  As we rely on each other to care for each other and our planet.

Note the height of the river over what is typically beach, deposits from the Paria River which form the riffles below (not yet large enough to be called a rapid by the likes of us).  Who are we to judge and call names?

Warmed by the sun, cooled by the breeze and low 54ºF water temperature.  Simply perfect.  The rock would get harder under my butt as time and the river flowed pass.  Must I always find complaint?

The water level had already dropped some from the first fierce flow dampening shorelines where vegetation grows, including some invasives.

Paria Riffle Colorado River Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaMesmerized by the water, never the same yet always flowing, freedom of shape no matter what obstruction gets in its way, lifting and splashing, dipping and churning.  (The river is quicker than the camera’s continuous shutter click.)

[Imagine a video here and click the link to see an eddy.]          https://youtu.be/pVFyMLw07jk

Does the water have choice for swift downstream in the powerful current, or slipped aside over rock to the shore getting caught in an eddy, or both?

Cactus Wren Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaAgain I was visited by the Canyon Wren, this time putting on more of show as it flitted about my boulder seat.

 

 

 

[Another video of the fast flowing roar of the Colorado River.]           https://youtu.be/AKLhqHrWz5o

And still I sat with the river, sun westering and shadows long.  Watching it dance with wild abandon.

I will play by most of the rules as I flow along this journey called life, trying to lift and splash my way over obstacles to survive and perhaps carve some rock along the way.  I will make my own choices, within reason, and be free of fear, anger, and hatred.

Life lessons

Gaelyn's shadow upstream Colorado River Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaI am just a tiny speck on this world.  The flow of the river.  Water in my veins.  Pulsing with energy.  Never ending.  Even beyond my day.

Had I stayed longer I’d surely learned more.  But the river healed me, being with nature energized my spirit while calming my soul.  No more dis-ease or in-tension.  Stress makes me physically sick and nature de-stresses me whether desert, forest, mountains, beach, or river.  So like the wild adapted river, rise and fall, carrying a load and dropping it along the way I left my angst behind and drove home to a new day with Colorado River lessons on my mind.

Life is short for us compared to the river.  We all have a journey and choices to make.  And life really is about the journey.  In the end, we only have the journey.  So we make the most of it as we flow along this river called life.

 

You know how when you hear really good music it moves you.  You go to another place.  Your mind expands like an acid trip from the 60s.  You see the world with different eyes and ears, you smell and  taste things differently?  Everything around you is new, ever changing, and you are open to it.  I want to be full of love, peace, gratitude, and compassion.  To bring together a division so clearly present and embrace a better future for all.  That’s what the Colorado River taught me.

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life Colorado River, life journey 19 Comments
06 July 2016

Taking guests to the Colorado River

June 30, 2016

Lee's Ferry boat launch area along Colorado River Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

With so many choices of amazing landscapes within a few hours drive of the North Rim Grand Canyon we settled on taking our guests to the Colorado River with a bit of history thrown in.

House Rock Valley & Paria Plateau from overlook SR89A East Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Diane and Nigel live in France  and regularly travel to historic sites.  So after a full day of touring the North Rim, Bill and I took them off the cool Kaibab Plateau and headed east into the heat.  It was Bill’s turn to play tour guide as this is more his neck of the woods desert.  First stop at a favorite overlook on SR89A looking down upon the Marble Platform and beyond to Vermilion Cliffs put the landscape into perspective.

 

Colorado River from Navajo Bridge Marble Canyon ArizonaAfter crossing House Rock Valley we stopped at Navajo Bridge where we hoped to show our guests California Condors.  No luck.  Yet still a pretty view of the river carving through Marble Canyon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diane & Gaelyn Colorado River Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaNext we headed to Lees Ferry and the Colorado River where the air was hot and the water cold.  Not many easy opportunities to wade in the mighty Colorado what with Glen Canyon dam and the 1000s of foot deep Grand Canyon.  Yet I don’t remember any of us getting our feet wet.  Thanks Bill for taking a pic of Diane and I.

 

 

 

Couple fishing Colorado River Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaA couple was fishing.  She waded into the river to bring the fish to shore.  Not sure what kind of fish, but after a phone photo she put it back in the river to swim free.  Even on an almost 100F day that 52F (11C) water is too cold for me.

Then we headed just past the boat launch area with it late enough in the day that no boats were preparing for their downstream adventures.  Only saw one small trailer in the campground.

1910 Stone building Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Diane through window of 1910 Stone building Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaDidn’t linger too long around the stone buildings that remain from Charles H. Spencer’s attempt to extract gold from the nearby colorful clay hills in 1910.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Route South side of Colorado River from Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Lees Ferry operated from 1872 until 1928 providing pioneers, miners, Indians, and tourists a way to cross the swift flowing Colorado River.  Looking across river to where horse drawn wagons would descend to the river made me think of how brave, determined, or stupid, the early settlers to this part of the country were.

Map Lonely Dell Ranch Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaThe Lonely Dell Ranch, near the mouth of the Paria River, was home to the Mormon families who operated Lees Ferry.  Being so isolated meant they needed to be self-sufficient, growing food for themselves and their animals.

 

 

 

 

Lonely Dell Ranch orchard Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

We found a cool respite in the shade of the orchard.  The irrigation system was running in one row, the water being drawn off the Colorado River.  Diane and Nigel said the apples were not quite ripe and deliciously tart.  I found a ripe plumb the critters had missed.  We saw peaches, pears, apricots and perhaps quince.  When ripe, you’re allowed to gather 5 gallons per day per person for personal consumption only, not resale.  I’ve missed harvest before but would like to return in a few weeks to try again.

Lonely Dell Ranch Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Bill wandered ahead to the historically preserved buildings while the rest of us got caught up in the orchard and amazing backdrop.

Stormy skies over Paria Plateau from Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Clouds threatened over the Paria Plateau and the parched landscape below would surely benefit from some life giving rain.  A good time to grab some lunch.

Neither Bill or I had been to the Marble Canyon Lodge Restaurant since rebuilt after the 2013 fire.  Not sure I’ll be back any time soon.  Although the over priced food was OK the service wasn’t great and the ambiance of the old historic building is gone.

Vermilion Cliffs SR89A House Rock Valley Arizona

One more historic site along SR89A on the return drive offers a nice view of the Vermilion Cliffs.  The old Mormon Honeymoon trail follows the cliffs and a ranch stop would be nearby.  A deep patch of green tucked into a crack in the walls indicates a spring which would have been very welcome in this dry environment.

House Rock Valley & Paria Plateau from overlook SR89A Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Also stopped again at the overlook to the valley below and the Paria Plateau with much better lighting than our morning stop.

Clouds over Turtle Rock Kaibab National Forest Arizona

And at Nigel’s request Bill found a wide spot along the windy road back up to the Kaibab Plateau where we photographed what I’ve heard called Turtle Rock.  Do you see it?

Then back to the North Rim to drop Diane and Nigel off at their room while Bill and I returned to my RV where we both went to bed early after two days of touring.

 

Rainbow over canyon Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaBill left the next day and it was back to work for me on their last full day at the North Rim which provided some teasing monsoon skies.  Saturday morning Diane and Nigel were whisked away by friends to Bryce National Park overnight, and through Zion National Park on the return to Nevada where they would all too soon fly back to France.  Keep watch for Diane’s posts on their adventures in the USA.

 

Only 85 miles (137 km) drive east from the North Rim Grand Canyon National Park, a 5 mile (8 km) side trip off SR89 from the tiny burg of Marble Canyon, Arizona leads to Lees Ferry where you can wade in the Colorado River.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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