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Tag: cholla

20 February 2018

Sky watching from the Arizona desert

Saguaro Ocotillo Sonoran Desert Chocolate Mountains West view clouds reverse sunrise King Valley Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaBeen enjoying a lot of sky watching lately what with the recent lunar eclipse and glorious sunrises and sets over the Sonoran Desert of southern Arizona.  Yet fluffy clouds turned to skies of gray and there is also the chores of life.

last light Shea Road camp Parker ArizonaAfter 13 of the allowed 14 days camping on the BLM (Bureau of Land Management) just outside the Kofa NWR (National Wildlife Refuge) I needed to move on.  Where did the time go?  Besides, it was time to dump and fill tanks and get groceries.  I drove north through an almost quiet Quartzsite then continued 35 miles to Parker for a Safeway and Wally fix.  I looked at and passed on both the LaPaz County Park and Blue Water Casino dry camp with too many others for my personal taste.  Instead I drove a roughly paved six miles east of SR95 on Shea Road to a BLM boondock which was unimpressive and obviously a well used OHV area.  So glad I was prepared to leave in the morning as the crowds of noisy rigs pulled in to go tearing around in the desert.  Sure hope that’s not why there is less vegetation here.

truck campter The Scenic Rd RV Park Quartzsite ArizonaIn the morning I checked the weather and big wind was predicted for Saturday night.  So being I still had to dump tanks and fill water ($12-15) plus take a shower ($8) I figured it was time to ‘treat’ myself to a RV Park.  I checked online and found The Scenic Road with rates from 2015/16 at $30.  Called ahead and they had space.  Level and close sites located along Hwy95 as are many other parks if not on Central in downtown Quartzsite.  With tax I figure that’s a $13/night site.  I refused the first parking option with my kitchen window three feet from the Women’s bathroom door.  Got a little better but definitely sandwiched in.  Figured that might turn out to be a good thing with overnight wind gusts predicted up to 25 mph.  Certainly not my cup of tea but I can sleep almost anywhere for one night.  And I had electricity too.

I heard the wind pick up just before going to bed at 11pm.  Guess it blew more but I never felt a thing so was good to be tucked in.  Sunday morning, after filling a propane tank and topping off the truck’s diesel I headed back out to the desert south of Quartzsite, this time the King Valley Road into the Kofa NWR.

saguaros ocotillos Chocolate Mountains King Valley Road Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Pencil Cholla King Valley Road Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaFound a side road from Kings Valley Road and although I could see a few RVs in the distance still felt like I had the place to myself.  Camp was surrounded by a goodly amount of saguaros and ocotillos, some palo verdes, lots of creosote bush, a few varieties of cholla, and some other scrubby stuff I don’t know.

 

Pencil Cholla

 

saguaros ocotillos Chocolate Mountains sunset sunrays King Valley Road Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaNice view of sunset over the Chocolate Mountains.

saguaros ocotillos Chocolate Mountains suset King Valley Road Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaWhile baking pizza for dinner I noticed a chirping noise when propane was used.  I Googled this new to me phenomenon and discovered the noise could mean time to replace hoses or regulator which I did about four years ago when I first got the camper.  Hmmmmm……

Sonoran Desert Kofa Mountains East view cloudy sunrise King Valley Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Sonoran Desert Kofa Mountains East view cloudy sunrise sunrays King Valley Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaMonday morning a layer of dark clouds hung over the eastern horizon.  Only a 20% chance of rain predicted.  I was parked on good hard rocky ground but the road I drove in on was soft dust and gravel.  Did make me wonder if I could drive it if it got very wet.  But I didn’t really plan to go anywhere for a few days anyway other than  maybe a walk towards the mountains.

Saguaro Ocotillo first light Choclate Mountains West view clouds King Valley Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaWind picked up during the day keeping it cooler than it had been.  These spring like temperatures are way too early making me wonder what this low desert will be like during summer.  Even the desert will change with extended 100°+ and drought.

Sonoran Desert Kofa Mountains East view cloudy sunrise sunrays King Valley Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Ocotillo leaves King Valley Road Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaThe day remained gray as rows of clouds hung over the valley.  A we bit of soft female rain fell bringing a smile to my face.  Rain is a gift to the desert dwellers especially when soft and not an extended downpour.  Considering the lack of recent rain I was surprised how green leafed the ocotillo were dressed.

 

Ocotillo

 

Ocotillo Saguaro Sonoran Desert Tank Mountains South view cloudy sunrise King Valley Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaAlthough chilly outside, I wore a jacket and scarf and opened the door to breath deep the petrichor of the desert.  I could feel it crying for more moisture.  What doesn’t kill us, makes us strong.

Border Patrol truck drove by and didn’t stop so guess I’m legal.

Sonoran Desert Kofa Mountains storm clouds Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaSun poking through holes in the clouds sent patches of light dancing across the land.  I grabbed the camera, stepped outside, and it was gone.  Just a tease.  In and out, taking ever more photos of the light on the desert while still processing the morning shots.

Sonoran Desert Chocolate Mountains storm clouds sunset sunrays King Valley Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Sonoran Desert Chocolate Mountains storm clouds sunset sunrays King Valley Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaGorgeous sunrays before sunset and after dark it seriously rained.

Sonoran Desert Kofa Mountains storm clouds sunrays King Valley Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI awoke to a fresh desert Tuesday morning.  The ground not really wet but with a scent of moisture and more low clouds indicating another day of perhaps life giving rain.  Was enough to settle the dust on the road without making a mess.

Cholla Saguaro Tank Mountains clouds King Valley Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaJumping Cholla Tank Mountains

Yet it did not rain so I went for a walk and heard only the wind and nothing else.  Where are the birds.

mountains approaching Agila Arizona

Enough gray.  Third day and I’m done with it.  I wanted my sunshine back.  And so, seemingly, did my solar system.  The control panel gave a fault message saying “the batteries are discharged below the minimum acceptable level”.  With another two days of cloud cover coming I would be in trouble.  No lights and eventually the fridge won’t ignite.  Called Solar Bill in Quartzsite and was told “gray skies don’t make much power” to keep my one battery charged.  I could live without lights but don’t want the ice cream to melt.  For some reason running the truck doesn’t charge the house battery.  Something that needs to be fixed.  At least the propane tank quit singing.

rain low clouds Weaver Mountains SR89 North to Yarnell ArizonaSo, I could pay $20-30 to camp in Quartzsite to charge the battery, or, drive two hours to home, plug in, and take care of some business plus pick up mail including new slippers and a book.  And here I am in Yarnell, at the top of the foggy mountain.

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Arizona, Kofa NWR, Parker, Places I've been, Quartzsite, United States cholla, ocotillo, rain, saguaro, Sonoran Desert, stormy sky, sunrays, sunrise, sunset 16 Comments
15 February 2017

Exploring the diversity of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

February 7-11, 2017

After camping off Darby Well Road for several days I went exploring Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument about 30 miles south.  This national monument is listed as a showcase for the lush and diverse Sonoran Desert with its extreme temperatures and limited rainfall where all species must adapt to survive.

SR85 South Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaOnly a few miles past Why there is a Border Patrol inspection station but southbound traffic wasn’t being stopped.  I’m sure with the multiple speed bumps a camera has time to take a photo of your license plate and there’s not too many places to easily run away.  Guess I passed inspection as I didn’t get arrested over the four days in the monument and saw plenty of border patrol vehicles while driving the back roads.

Camper Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaTuesday was my first day in the park and I paid for two nights at Twin Peaks Campground which even though large with first-come first-served can fill up during the winter months.  Most sites are pull-through with the last few rows set aside for no generators and tent camping where I parked.  And with my Senior Pass providing half off it was like getting two nights for the price of one.

 

Map Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaSecond stop, the visitor center where I found my friend Cynthia, picked up all the park literature, and attended a Ranger program where I ran into Michael, Imkelina, and their dog Sydney.  Of course I picked up Junior and Not so Junior Ranger books.  I love the idea of an adult version and would love to see us do this at Grand Canyon. Back to camp for lunch and a cold solar shower which was brief but still felt good.

 

 

 

Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaThen I took off to drive the 21-mile slightly rough gravel Ajo Mountain Drive, a fantastic loop up, over, and around the Diablo Mountains.  Ask for the guide at the visitor center, which I had with me but forgot to use that day.  And get an earlier start than my 3:30pm because it’s not only a slow drive but you’ll want to make many stops along the way.

Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaThe Sonoran Desert stretches for 120,000 square miles through Arizona, California, and into the Mexican states of Sonora and Baja California.  It is the only place in the world where the saguaro (sa-WA-roh) cactus grows naturally.  As the largest cactus in the US, the saguaro grows very slowly, up to 50 feet tall in about 125 years.  Palo verde trees often serve as “nurse” trees for saguaro seedlings providing shelter until they are established.  As the cactus matures it competes with the tree for moisture.  Palo verde have deep roots to seek the water table while saguaro have shallow spreading roots to gather the water from rains.  The saguaro in turn provides food and shelter for many species of birds, mammals, and insects with payback when insects and bats pollinate its flowers, and other wildlife eat its fruit and disperse its seeds.  Everything works together to maintain this intricate, well balanced community.

Ocotillo blooms Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

Chainfruit cholla buds Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaA seasonal pattern of light winter rains and heavy summer thunderstorms make the Sonoran Desert lush compared to other deserts.  Creosote bushes grow everywhere interspersed with prickly pear cactus and thorny mesquite trees. Multiple species of cholla (CHOY-yuh) hung heavy with buds. The fountain-like stalks of the ocotillo (OH-koh-TEE-yo) were covered in rows of tiny dark green leaves and a few burst at the tips with brilliant red flowers.  Despite the long sharp thorns this is not a cactus but a shrub that drops all leaves during dry times and resembles a bundle of sticks.

Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

Organ Pipe Cactus South Puerto Blanco Diver Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaAnd of course the name sake organ pipe cactus named by early settlers thinking the dead cacti looked like church pipe organs.  And here I thought it was because the organ pipe is said to hum in the wind.  Because severe frosts can kill this cactus it typically grows on southern slopes where it can absorb the most sun and its range doesn’t go much further north than the national monument.

Cholla, palo verde, saguaros South Puerto Blanco Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

 

 

 

 

Because of recent rain the whole desert looked extremely lush in many shades of green.  At my many stops along the drive I wandered a sinuous/snakey path on rocky soil using extreme caution not to bump into any of this prickly growth.

 

 

 

 

 

Waxing moon Arch Canyon Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaThen I’d drive a little closer towards the Diablo Mountains.  This landscape is made up of steep, blocky mountain ranges that alternate with the flat, narrow valleys, part of the Basin and Range that covers much of the Southwest.  The surrounding mountains were created by the eruptions of ancient volcanoes.  Hot ash blown from these volcanoes fell in layers and as the ash cooled it solidified into rock called ash-fallWaxing moon Arch Canyon Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona tuff.  This is topped by rhyolite flows which would have moved slowly across the land scraping up fragments of other rocks and cementing them together to form a new rock called breccia.

Waxing moon Arch Canyon Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

I came around a curve and couldn’t believe my luck with the waxing moon hanging over a saddle to the left of an arch.  There is a .6 mile trail into Arch Canyon but it was getting late in the afternoon so I just enjoyed the view feeling fortunate to have caught this moment.

Waxing moon in Arch Canyon Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaI gave a look back as I continued down the road and couldn’t believe my luck seeing the moon through the arch, a serendipitous moment.  Do you see it’s a double arch?   I didn’t see any wildlife except a few birds probably because it was the middle, and hottest, part of the day.

Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaI returned to camp just before sunset thinking I’d attend the Ranger’s evening program with Cynthia but I was just too tired from the long day and really wanted to see the photos I’d taken of this indescribable desert landscape.  I’m really trying, or it’s really tying, to use the tripod more frequently.  I’ve noticed that my hand-held shots are often not sharp.  But that dang tripod is heavier than the camera.

Wall South Puerto Blanco Drive West Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

Wall South Puerto Blanco Drive West Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaWednesday I headed for the 14 mile South Puerto Blanco Drive that winds through the Sonoyta Mountains to the La Abra Plain which parallels the US and Mexican border. Signs warn of smugglers telling you not to stop or leave your vehicle unattended.  I saw several border patrol vehicles along this rough road while within sight in Mexico is a nicely paved road.  I became distracted and obsessed with the wall—which is mostly just a fence—to the point I couldn’t appreciate the beauty of the desert.  Does the land know it belongs to different people?

Wall-fence South Puerto Blanco Dr[ve West Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

Wall South Puerto Blanco Drive East Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaAll I could think about was Pink Floyd.  I could have parked, walked under the fence, and gone for lunch at a café within sight.  Of course I’d have taken my passport with me.  After about five miles with the road getting progressively worse I turned around.

 

 

Lukeville border crossing SR85 South Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaAfter returning to pavement I drove the mile south to Lukeville at the border crossing.  I had no intention of crossing but just had to look.  Not much there but did top off with fuel. Good thing because another person at the pump said no diesel in Why that day.

Cacti moon Ajo Range Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

Glow prickley pear cactus Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaI paid for two more nights at the campground then wandered in my current back yard.  My site on the outside loop offered nothing but desert beyond.  The moon seemed to look down on the land.  And as the sun sank the desert life took on a golden glow.

 

 

Sunset Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

Sunset light Ajo Range & moon Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaAfter sunset I went to the evening program about the brilliance of planets we can see with the naked eye.  Venus was visible but the sky was dominated by the almost full moon.

Sunrise Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaThursday I returned to the Ajo Mountain Drive with another late morning start even though I was up for sunrise.

Crested saguaro Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

Crested Organ Pipe Cactus Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Arizona

Crested Organ Pipe Cactus Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaThis time I used the guide stopping at all the numbered points along the way.  And, this time I saw crested, or cristate, cactus.  First a saguaro and then an Organ Pipe Cactus.  According to the guide cactus have growth cells on the tips of their arms that grow in a circle.  But some growth cells form a straight line that creates the crest.  There are several scientific hypothesis but this beautiful phenomenon is still unexplained.

The suggested time for the entire loop drive is two hours.  At 3 1/2 hours I was only about half way.  I often drive no more than 5mph because 15mph seems too fast to whiz past the landscape.  Traffic was no problem with only a few cars passing me when I used pullovers.  Most drivers weren’t going a whole lot faster than me anyway.

 

North Puerto Blanco Drive East Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaFriday I again started a late morning drive this time on the North Puerto Blanco Drive about five miles to the turn around where the road becomes one way for another 16 miles and requires high clearance and perhaps 4×4 to loop back to the South Puerto Blanco Drive.

Ajo Mountain Drive Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaIt was beautiful, but again I wanted to return to the Ajo Mountain Drive so this time only drove the first 2 1/2 miles to the turn around for that one way loop.  Several trails lead from this point but at 104°F I passed on hiking.

Junior Ranger badge Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ArizonaI returned to the visitor center to get my Junior Ranger badge the last day of my stay.

 

Art Under the Arches by Cynthia Sequanna Ajo Arizona

 

 

 

Then instead of shooting the full moon I went to Ajo with Cynthia to a gallery showing where one of her most awesome art quilt wall hangings was on display.  And by the way she deservedly won best of show for Art Under the Arches.

Petti-point cuff

I bought myself an early birthday present from the store attached to the show.  Just couldn’t help myself with a petti-point turquoise cuff, old pawn, for only $125, a steal of a deal.  Then we went to dinner with some fellow Rangers to the advertised “Best Burger and Craft Brew” at Estrellas.

I was beginning to feel like a local even knowing Rangers by name.  I asked Cynthia who I could volunteer for just to drive the Ajo Mountain Road daily.  Still more to explore, roads, trails, Ranger programs, and maybe flowers coming.  I just might have to return to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, soon.

So I may have missed the full moon rise yet figured to get another chance Saturday night.  But as this post is already too long that’s another story.

 

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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