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Tag: camping

12 April 2017

Flowers at Fossil Falls

March 23-28, 2017

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaThere are no fossils, or currently any waterfalls either at Fossil Falls, but there were flowers growing in cracks and crevices of jagged basalt carved smooth by the ancient flow of water.

After two weeks exploring around Lone Pine California—Alabama Hills, Manzanar, and Tuttle Creek—it looked like a little break in the wind and I figured it was time to start the journey home.  But of course with some stops along the way.  Thanks to Jeff for recommending Fossil Falls.

Red Hill US395 South Fossil Falls BLM CaliforniaOnly a 40 mile drive south on US395 I watched carefully for Cinder Road just south of the prominent Red Hill.  Along the way I stopped in don’t blink you’ll miss it Olanche for much needed propane.  Ouch, $4.99/gallon hurt the budget, especially after a museum visit and staying at Boulder Creek RV Resort the night before.  Time for a cheap rich connection with nature.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake California

water carved basalt Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaSigns directed me down a good gravel road a short way to the turn off for both day use parking and a campground.  A 1/2 mile easy trail lead deceptively over low ridges of porous yet smooth basalt.  And suddenly, a 40 foot drop reveals this fossil of a waterfall.  The scene is vast and difficult to put into perspective.  The seemingly jumbled and carved rock like a pile of discarded sculptures was overwhelming and hard to separate.

unidentified flowers Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaPlus I was totally distracted by the brilliant dots of color with flowers scattered around.  The dark lava rock made a nice backdrop yet the wind made it difficult to photograph.

I didn’t stay too long as the falls canyon was looking straight into the lowering sun and I wanted to find my campsite for the night.  Nice to know I could return in the morning.

(All unidentified)

 

lava flow Coso Mountains Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaThe primitive campground offers a hand-operated water pump that others reported was a slow pain, and a pit-toilet.  The dirt road has lava tire bitters to avoid.  Each of the maybe dozen campsites had a table, fire ring, and grill.  Only a few sites would accommodate large vehicles.  I never saw the “pay station” for the BLM $6/night fee.  Wasn’t overly worried about it for a planned one night stay at $3 with my Senior Pass.

unidentified yellow flower Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaI had every intention of getting out, relatively, early for some morning light.  Instead Berta and discussed the troubles with our world.  Yet timing turned out right when I met and chatted with two ladies coming off the Fossil Falls trail.  Carolyn is a blogger and instagramer from BC, Canada and was traveling home in her RV with her friend  Christine caravaning behind her.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaI spent about two hours roaming around on this course and sculpted landscape beyond the first falls.  Between 400,000 and 10,000 years ago basaltic lava flowed from the Coso volcanic range east of the Owens Valley.  While the area is an arid desert now, water once flowed from Owens Lake to the north through the narrow valley creating an interconnected system of lakes that are now dry basins.  In addition to lava flows and river systems, the Owens Valley was once covered with glaciers.  The falls were formed when the river was forced to divert its course over a basalt flow, polishing and reshaping the rock.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake California

pothole selfie Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake Californiapothole Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake California

Although it’s possible to crawl down into the ancient flow I chose to stay on top inspecting potholes made by rocks caught in an ancient eddy that drilled these almost perfectly circular holes.

Desert Hyacinth Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaDesert Hyacinth

Sediments settled in some of these carved rocks creating micro environments like a pot filled with flowers.  And these attracted butterflies, some pairs dancing on air, that were way quicker than I am with the camera.  I found it interesting to note that frequently the color of the butterfly matched the flowers they landed on.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaI tried to imagine the flow of water, listening for its song as it dropped and swirled to create this smooth yet chaotic rock fissure.

Red Hill Little Lake Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake California

Sunset clouds Fossil Falls Little Lake California

dry lake bed Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaThis place deserved more than one day of exploration but with a weekend coming I headed out about another mile past the appropriately named “Little Lake” and camped on a dry lake bed.  The dry cracked mud looked like cobblestones but I wouldn’t want to drive on them when slippery wet.

 

 

SUV dust Coso lava field Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaUnfortunately the wind kicked up the following day yet I was content to stay inside with a good signal working on posts and enjoying the shadow speckled Coso Mountains beyond the long stretch of valley.  Plus entertained by the occasional SUV driver fantasizing a race across the Bonneville salt flats dry lake bed and leaving a legendary trail of dust lingering behind.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaMy birthday started late that night and well into the next morning with wishes from different time zones, the other side of the world in some cases.  I love social media for the friendships and conversations with friends around the world.  Depending on how late you stay up or get up.

Yellow pepper-grass Sierras Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaYellow pepper-grass

Rattlesnake weed, Purple Owl's clover, unidentified & Phacelia Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaI eventually went for about a three hour stroll through the wildflowers and around some interesting shaped lava with the southern Sierras as a backdrop.  Many of the flowers at Fossil Falls are tiny—from the head of a pin to a pea-size and no more than a quarter—growing in the shade of lava rocks.  True survivors.  Scattered, hiding, but there.  I respect the desert blooms for not being too big and showy as they struggle to flower at all.

Rattlesnake weed, Purple Owl’s clover, unidentified & Phacelia

Lupine Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaLupine, called Bluebonnet in Texas, seems to grow in many environments.  I’ve seen it stunted to no more than four inches tall on rocky tundra and up to two feet in meadows, plus every height in between.  These weren’t more than 10 inches.

rabbit Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaSparks of sunshine reflected off numerous chips of shinny obsidian left behind by the First People indicating they knapped arrow heads here.  Might have been good hunting.  I saw a couple of jackrabbits the size of a large lap dog.

Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaThat night the wind rocked me and with predicted N/NW gusts of 55mph I moved first thing in the morning into a little more sheltered area in the campground.  The low walls of lava buffered it a bit and was certainly better than the dusty dry lake bed.

butterfly dry lake bed Fossil Falls BLM Little Lake CaliforniaWith the camper still rocking I didn’t poke my nose out all day.  Thank goodness for a strong signal.  But I’m done with it.  I would roll the next day wherever the wind blew me.

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California, Places I've been, United States camping, flowers, Fossil Falls, geology, hiking, lava flow 18 Comments
03 April 2017

Tuttle Creek campground near Alabama Hills

March 16-21, 2017

sun rays Sierras Tuttle Creek campground Lone Pine CaliforniaIf you want to visit the Alabama Hills without camping there with no signal try out the nearby Tuttle Creek Campground about 5 miles from Lone Pine, California.  Managed by BLM (Bureau of Land Management) at $5/night it’s a steal (half off with Senior Pass).  Eighty-three large gravel sites along Tuttle Creek, some more level than others, accommodate big rigs with a table and BBQ/fire pit.  Dump station an additional $5.  Potable water available.  Plus big views up and down Owens Valley surrounded by the Eastern Sierras and the Inyo Mountains.

speed bump Tuttle Creek campground Lone Pine CaliforniaHowever, don’t take the Tuttle Creek Road on the low end of Whitney Portal Road with a big rig.  Although it’s gorgeous and paved it’s mostly one lane with turn-outs and twisty.  Instead just a few miles further, and past Movie Road, take the 1.6 miles south on Horseshoe Meadows Road to the campground sign.  Then slow down for the horrific speed bumps requiring an almost full stop at each one.

Tuttle Creek campground Lone Pine CaliforniaThe lovely song of Tuttle Creek helped me relax and sleep after an emotionally draining visit to Manzanar National Historic Site.  In the morning blue skies with patches of streaming clouds distracted me.  And with temperatures predicted up to 80°F I didn’t feel like leaving or going any place at all.

 

jackrabbit Tuttle Creek campground Lone Pine CaliforniaI could almost watch the snow line climb higher every warm and windy day.  A light afternoon breeze kept it from feeling hot.  On the walk back from the pay station, spending two more nights, I saw a jackrabbit.  They are huge, like a mid-sized dog.

 

 

 

sunset Sierras Alabama Hills Tuttle Creek campground Lone Pine CaliforniaUnfortunately the weekend brought revelry and the silence was broken by a rather large group of young people camped not far away.  Guess that’s what to be expected over spring break.  Then the wind picked up which didn’t inspire me to leave the camper most of the day.  Instead I took advantage of the blazing fast internet signal and worked on blog posts and photos.  Fortunately the noisy group left Sunday morning along with many other campers but they didn’t take the wind with them.

Sunset Sierras Alabama Hills Tuttle Creek campground Lone Pine CaliforniaWith more windy days I continued to stay inside.  Sometimes, it’s just nice to stay home.  Even if your home is on wheels.  The two above shots, and below, were taken from the camper door.  What’s not to like about that?

low clouds Eastern Sierras Tuttle Creek campground Lone Pine CaliforniaHad thought to leave Tuesday for Mojave Trails National Monument yet woke up to clouds hanging low over the Sierras and wind whipping up the Owens Valley from the south.  Don’t like to be on the road under those conditions.  Where I was had no protection from the wind unfortunately.  But the price was right.  Not cold and so beautiful to look at, from inside.  Sprinkled on and off all afternoon.  Rather interesting to experience other than perfectly clear blue skies.  Gives the landscape a totally different perspective.

After almost a week of self-imposed confinement I began my journey southward with a stop at the Museum of Western Film History and an early birthday surprise.

map Tuttle Creek campground Lone Pine California

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California, Lone Pine, Places I've been, United States Alabama Hills, camping, Eastern Sierras, public land, Tuttle Creek campground 20 Comments
22 March 2017

Alabama Hills – a trip back in time

March 9-15, 2017

A time machine set for March 9, 2017 took me to the Alabama Hills.  Yet I also traveled further back in time and to other places filled with memories.

snow Lone Pine Pk Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaHave you ever visited a place you’ve never been before yet it feels familiar?  That’s how I felt at Alabama Hills.  The round eroded boulders reminded me of many visits to Joshua Tree.  The stretched out, snowy range of the High Sierras made me think of the North Cascades in Washington state were I once lived.  The entire landscape, so vast I couldn’t take it all in.  Plus a nagging feeling I’d seen this place before.

03 DSCN1250lerw Panamint Valley Inyo Mts SR190 W DEVA NP CA g-1-2I left Death Valley on SR190 heading west.  The twisty climb over the Panamint Mountains may not be for the fainthearted or long vehicles.  Having said that, Dave met at Alabama Hills towed a 40 foot 5th-wheel, and I did see a tour bus stopped at an overlook along the equally curvy road over the Inyo Mountains.  Even saw some potential boondocking to the north before dropping into the Owens Valley.

hat pins Eastern SierraStopped at the Eastern Sierra visitor center, bought a few pins for my curtain collection, and got my Inyo National Forest Junior Ranger book, plus lots of information on the area.  Wow, there’s a lot to see an do: museums, drives, hikes, and Manzanar National Historic Site.

 

 

 

 

 

High Sierras Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaTurned west at the only stop light in Lone Pine, California.  Even with maps and what I thought was a false turn I kept on driving up Whitney Portal Road somehow drawn to the snowy Eastern Sierras.  Yea I know, me who hates cold and snow.  Yet these jagged peaks are mystifying.  I can understand why the volunteer in the visitor center moved here after retirement because he’d hiked these mountains for decades.  I so respect people who have a sense of place, wherever their place may be.

Arch High Sierras Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaA plethora of gravel roads wind in, around, and between the monoliths of eroded granite.  No signal anywhere.  I drove very slowly for an hour looking for that just right campsite.  Not too close to others, not tucked too tightly into the boulders.  When I’d find a place where I liked the view, it was a road.  Can’t park in the road.  Found a place between two roads looking up at an arch and the High Sierras but even with three boards stacked for the front tires to level couldn’t climb the boards only scooching them in from of the tires.  Finally parked on high ground with a 360° view of sandy colored boulders backed by snow topped mountains both east and west.

I understood why the granite fractures allowing water to break it further apart and round the edges.  In contrast, the towering granite mountains are carved by glaciers, cold, and ice.  But why did this place look so familiar?

Inyo Mountains Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaIf you grew up during the 1950s like I did, this landscape may take you back a bit.  During the 1920s Hollywood filmmakers began making westerns in the Alabama Hills.  Tom Mix, Hopalong Cassidy, Gene Autry, and the Lone Ranger all shot it out with outlaws among the boulders.  Classics such as Gunga Din, Yellow Sky, and How the West Was Won were filmed at sites now known as Movie Flat.  In 1990, Tremors was filmed almost entirely on location in the Alabama Hills.  (Yes, I stayed on the rock.)  And more recently, Star Trek Generations, Gladiator, and Iron Man among others were filmed here as well.  Today, mostly car commercials are filmed here.  The Museum of Western Film History is located in Lone Pine and offers a map to film locations.  However, I never made it to the museum and instead waited patiently for that masked man to ride up on Silver.  Instead I saw RVs of every description, jeeps, ATVs and dirt bikes.

sunset High Sierras Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaMost of the time I enjoyed peace and quiet with an occasional dusty vehicle slowly cruising past probably looking for film sites.  No wonder, because it turns out I was camped at Lone Ranger Canyon.

Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaMy first full day after breakfast, and an unexpected almost two hour Windows update—how does that happen in the middle of nowhere with no connection—I wandered northward up sandy paths, over boulders, turning around to unending rugged views.

Under an overcast sky even this rough landscape looked rather dull and flat.  The topography is so complicated, it’s overwhelming to photograph and capture the enormity, kind of like grand canyon.  I could see for miles north and south in Owens Valley, or up 13-14000 feet to Lone Pine Peak and Mount Whitney.  While at the same time hide in pockets and corridors among the boulders.

animal shape boulder Arch trail Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaI found myself looking at individual shapes and felt transported back to South Africa.  There were elephants everywhere.  Or at least rocks shaped like elephants.  Maybe you’ll see some other bizarre shapes sculpted by wind and water.  How I admire the power of nature’s art.

animal shape boulder Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaThis place is a paredolia’s dream if  you use your imagination.

truckcamper High Sierras Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaIn two hours of scrambling over rock and sand I never lost sight on the camper.

sun rays snow Lone Pine Peak Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaSaturday is different.  The crystal clear blue sky of morning gave way to wispy clouds.  I turned the rig around for a different view, sitting outside wearing shorts and looking at the snowy Sierras.  Way more people around.  What looks like an adult led boys group of five in a Suburban towing an old truck-bed trailer full of camp gear park 50 feet from my door then noisily hike off into the hills for an hour and thankfully move on.  Dirt bikes scream past sending up dust plumes, popping wheelies, and buzz like bees around the landscape.  Fast traffic on the main dirt road left a cloud of sand drifting across the land.  A lone person sits atop a high boulder contemplating who knows what.  All within sight of my camp.  And suddenly quiet, only me and the wind as I sat inside working on posts and photos.

sunset Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine California

Orion Sierras Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaNot only a glorious sunset, but with an almost full moon lighting up the snowy Sierras I saw Orion running overhead.

lizard Arch trail Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaSunday I went to town, did laundry and enjoyed half a huge cinnamon roll at the Alabama Hills Café & Bakery.  I also found a strong signal at a nice little city park next to the Carl’s Jr where I spent hours catching up and posting to the blog.  I feel a little lost when cut off from the world too long even in such a fantastic landscape.  Fueled up at an unbelievable, for California, $2.79/gal diesel then headed back to the Hills.

 

 

Moon rise Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaThought I’d park in a different place but didn’t want to be too buried in the boulders and difficult to find semi-level, so ended up back where I was.  No color at sunset yet the full moon rising above the Inyo Mountains more than made up for that.

Inyo Mountains thru Mobius Arch Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaThe next day I explored a little beyond my visual camp space and hiked the less than a mile, moderately easy Arch Trail.  Of course it took me three hours as I was distracted by more than arches.  Leaving the parking area I descended into a wash and was surprised to see small pools of water with tiny black wormy things.  Life in the desert is precious and tenacious taking advantage of this water that will not last.

Sierras through Mobius Arch Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaA young boy with a drone strapped to his backpack passed me on the trail.  I commented that it looked like a nice drone and that I had a question about the legality of using it on these public lands.  He paused and spoke very politely explaining that it couldn’t be used in national parks but that here was OK.  Later his mom and I spoke about the mixed feelings on drones.  Like the images dislike the noise.  Not in my backyard please.

Mobius Arch Alabama Hills Lone Pine California

Mobius Arch Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaI worked my way around Mobius Arch looking at this sinuous curve from as many angles I could safely get.  The arch seems to change shape as it frames each different view.  The few people around politely stayed out of each others way for photos.  Except for the drone kid who I waited to move off the boulders for my parting shot.

Heart Arch Alabama Hills Lone Pine California

Heart Arch Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaAs I continued the loop, Heart Arch came into view and with every twist in the trail showed a different perspective.  The west side opening is like a large horizontal heart.  From the east it’s small and vertical.  Almost back to the parking lot I turn around and see the heart once more.

Scarlet milk-vetch Arch trail Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaAnd then just before dropping back into the wash, bright red draws my eye down the slope.  I walked down stream to see the Scarlet milk-vetch standing out brilliantly in this otherwise dusty environment.

dry bush Alabama Hills Lone Pine California

I took three hours exploring and saw less than a dozen people the entire time.  Plus there are many more arches scattered about that I missed.

balanced boulders Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaFrom there I continued to drive following the BLM movie map past where Tremors was filmed and to the Gunga Din bridge site.  The entire place looks like Graboids could pop up any time.  All these sites are within a few miles of each other with totally different backdrops.  Neither would be particularly recognizable to me.

sunset High Sierras Alabama Hills BLM Lone Pine CaliforniaWhen I stopped to check out the wash that presumably ran under the now non-existent bridge a couple of gals told me they were packing to leave if I wanted their premo campsite.  So I wandered for a bit, entertaining their friendly dogs, and ended up with a slightly different view for my new camp.  A few boulders nearby, more in the distance, and still far views.  Perfect.

boulders Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaI had thought about returning to town the next day but when I find a place I really like, I just want to stay for a while.  The disadvantage to having one unit, instead of a trailer to unhitch from or a towed behind a motorhome is when I leave, I’m actually gone and don’t feel comfortable leaving a chair behind to claim my space, especially in a place like this.  It would probably be OK, but…the gals who left said someone pulled in to tell them, “you have my site.”  This is definitely a first come type of place and there’s plenty of space, some just being a little nicer than others, IMHO.  But we’re all different.  A group of folks within sight but probably 1/4 mile away are backed up into a hole in the western rocks and had very early shade.  That wouldn’t be my preference.

water wash Mount Whitney Alabama Hills Lone Pine California

Inyo Mountains Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaTuesday dawned clear with temperatures promising to rise into the high 70s.  I took a wander up the not quite so dry wash to the only tree in sight.  How exciting to find water in pools, even flowing with mini-falls, enough to make a soft noise.  And lush tiny carpets of thick moss, an oasis in the surrounding dry environment.  I considered a dip but the water was too cool for my preference and I wouldn’t want to disturb the plants, and whatever those tiny worm things are.

sunrise Alabama Hills Lone Pine CaliforniaThe next morning I felt a need to move again.  Went to town for a signal, and muffin at the bakery.  Then headed north on US395 a short ways to visit Manzanar National Historic Site.

Things to know

These Alabama Hills are not in Alabama.  They were named by prospectors for the CSS Alabama warship during the American Civil War.

face on rock Alabama Hills Whitney Portal Road Lone Pine CaliforniaNearly 30,000 acres of public lands located west of Lone Pine, California off the Whitney Portal Road are managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) to preserve the hills and provide recreation.  Dispersed camping is allowed for up to 14 days with a pack it in pack it out policy.  There’s a dumpster in the city park.  Nearby Tuttle Creek Campground offers affordable sites with potable water, toilets, and a dump station available.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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