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Tag: abandoned ranches

02 May 2023

Crested Saguaros east to Buenos Aires NWR

Cristate Saguaro mp108.35 SR86 Tohono O’Odam reservation AZDiscovered many cristates or crested Saguaros along the way to Buenos Aires NWR (National Wildlife Refuge).  I’m not ready to go “home” so am exploring new places while the temps in southeastern Arizona hold mostly below 90°.

It finally got too hot in the Sonoran Desert but I wasn’t ready to go home.  So after Easter weekend I left the Bates Well camp and headed east filled with breakfast from Granny’s in Why, going for higher elevation and cooler than 90° temperatures at the Buenos Aires NWR.

wildflowers SR86 E AZI also had a new to me two-lane highway to travel through the Tohono O’Odam reservation, SR86, with sights along the way including wildflowers.

Cristate Saguaro SR86 AZCristate Saguaro SR86 AZ

Kitt Pk SR86 AZ

crested Saguaro SR86 AZcrested Saguaro SR86 AZ

Richard sent me a list of mile markers for crested Saguaros and I found four out of five.  One sat below the Kitt Peak National Observatory which was currently closed to the public.  Besides, without camping at the top of that 6886 foot peak I wouldn’t want to drive up or down in the dark of night.

grass Mesquite Baboquirvari Pk Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZBaboquirvari Peak 7733 feet

Though I didn’t climb that high in elevation the landscape changed to a semidesert grassland with mesquite trees from 3200-5000 feet in Buenos Aires NWR.

old ranch VC BANWR AZI drove south almost to the Mexican border to the visitor center located in the original ranch house built in the 1860s of adobe bricks covered with plaster.  I took video of the inside that will show up on my YouTube channel eventually.

Great Horned Owl bird in nest Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZThe volunteer, Noel, not only knew the natural and cultural history but led me outside to a Great Horned Owl’s nest where we could see a pair of adult-sized ear tufts.

truckcamper #76 BAANWR Sasabel AZ

last light #76 BANWR AZI asked him to recommend a campsite either at elevation or with shade.  I didn’t have far to go and parked under some huge oaks along a dry wash in site #76, with absolutely no signal.  But that was OK as I had many photos from the day’s journey to go through and even processed a few for future posting.

Mule deer thru trees from camper #76 BA NWR Sasable AZI spent the chilly morning writing a blog post in between my window wildlife views.  First being greeted by a small herd of Mule-deer less than 100 feet away.

Lucy's Warbler bird #76 BA NWR Sasable AZ

Redtailed Hawk in tree #76 BA NWR Sasable AZRedtailed Hawk in flight #76 BA NWR Sasable AZ

Small birds flitted in and out of nearby branches until a Red-tailed hawk came to roost.

Blue dots on map mark camps, #76 south & #40 middle

map Buenos Aires NWR AZBy 10:30am I was headed back to the Buenos Aires NWR visitor center for better light on the owl but could barely see feathers.  I was the first person to the visitor center that morning.  The previous afternoon I was the 14th visitor.  I spoke quite a while with 3rd-winter volunteer Barb who plans to stay through the summer to experience monsoon.  WOW!  This awesome 83-year old lives in her 25 foot Airstream on the refuge.  We spoke at length about the natural history of these grasslands and their wildlife.

In 1864 Pedro Aquirre Jr created Buenos Ayres Ranch.  Over 100 years of overgrazing, erosion, and fire suppression, mesquite trees gained a foothold reducing habitat for native animals.  In 1985, US Fish & Wildlife bought the land and with later additions Buenos Aires NWR now protects 117,000 acres.  They now do prescribed burns and reduce the mesquite trees while reintroducing Desert pronghorn and protecting endangered bobwhite quail.  Over 325 species of birds are found on the refuge along with mule and white-tailed deer, javelina, coatimundi, ringtail cats, and mountain lion.  I saw scat from the last near both my camps.     Mt Lion scat Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZ

Barb recommended I stop at the nearby, small, human-made Triangle Pond to watch birds before driving to the High Gates Road in search of another designated dispersed campsite with a better possibility of signal.  I worked for US Fish and Wildlife in 1976/77 and saw the potential for more education and interpretation at their hatcheries and refuges along the Columbia River.  As a land management agency they really haven’t embraced that or advertised their locations, and now I am glad of that as they are not so crowded.

Coot bird reeds Triangle Pond BA NWR Sasabe AZI spent an hour by myself sitting in my bird-hide/truck along Triangle Pond watching birds.  Dark black Coots spent so much time diving they would be almost invisible without their contrasting white beak.

Sora Rail bird Triangle Pond BA NWR Sasabe AZThe large bright yellow beak on what looked like a duck confused me until I dug out the field guide and discovered the Sora Rail, a lifer.

Heron in flight Triangle Pond BA NWR Sasabe AZHeron in tree Triangle Pond BA NWR Sasabe AZ

No surprise to see Blue Herons around but I think they look gangly landing in trees.

Grackle bird reeds Triangle Pond BA NWR Sasabe AZI saw many Grackles at Mittry Lake, and here too.

Redwing Blackbirds Triangle Pond BA NWR Sasabe AZMy happiest sighting was the Redwing Blackbirds because I grew up watching them in wetlands, and those are few in Arizona.

tree sunset clouds #40 BA NWR Sasabe AZ

trees mts sunset clouds #40 BA NWR Sasabe AZI chose site #40 up on a little ridge in the Altar Valley with views of the Baboquivari Mountains to the west and Las Guijas Mountains to the east, and even had a signal.

trees mts sunset clouds #40 BA NWR Sasabe AZ

trees sunset clouds #40 BA NWR Sasabe AZA 360° sunset confirmed my site choice.

Lenticular clouds #40 Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZThe next day’s wind blew in lenticular clouds and kept me inside watching the light and shadow change colors on the land.  Perfect because I needed a down day to observe my new viewshed.

grass Mesquite trees Baboquivari Mts clouds #40 Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZAnd edit video from a few weeks previous at my Darby Well camp.  I take about an hour per finished minute to edit videos that run from :15 to 25:00 minutes to start.

Swainson's Hawk bird soaring #40 Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZOnly one vehicle went past all day, and what might be a Swainson’s hawk, feel free to correct me.

grass Mesquite trees Guijas Mts High Gates Rd Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZIn the morning I finished the Darby Well camp video, even though I was sitting in Buenos Aires NWR.  Sometimes I confuse myself.  Good way to clear my head is go for a walk.  I never have to go far to be gone for sometimes hours.  I moseyed north on the High Gates Road passing two other designated campsites within less than half a mile and out of sight of each other, all large with fire rings.  The Mesquite barely showed small green leaves so their skeletal shape was distinct.

yellow fruit Barrel cactus High Gates Rd Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZPrickly Pear cactus buds High Gates Rd Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZ

                                                         Barrel                                                                                             Prickly Pear

Cactus were in various stages of bud and fruit.  I picked one of the fruits and took video removing the millions of poppyseed-sized seeds out to taste the rather lacking fruit.  May not be ripe yet.

Pink Fairyduster flowers High Gates Rd Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZFairyduster

Two vehicles went by, busy Friday.

Weekends are a time to stay put, not travel.  It’s also a good time to look ahead, for me that’s not more than about a week.  I made a plan to visit a friend in Bisbee the next weekend.  So I looked at a map for route according to what’s to see along the way.

Ash-throated Flycatcher bird #40 BANWR Sasabe AZAsh-throated Flycatcher bird #40 BANWR Sasabe AZ

                                                                                          Ash-throated Flycatcher

I watched birds because that’s what you do at Buenos Aires NWR.  And because I would be busy for the week edited and scheduled a trail-cam video of the coyotes in my Darby Well camp.

Curve-billed Thrasher bird #40 BANWR Sasabe AZCurved-bill Thrasher

Truck towing a trailer with one horse went by this morning and two more rigs in the afternoon. Damn freeway.

Morning can start at a cool 50° headed to a high of 80°.  That’s not hot but my temperature rises thinking I’m so organized but got flustered when I couldn’t find the Old US 80 videos.  I spent wasted the morning doing computer housekeeping.  Finally feeling blind and fatigued, I went outside into the shade to relax and read.  A bicycle rider went by, later a side-by-side playing loud polka music and kicking up dust.

Mesquite tree frame Baboquivari PK sunset clouds #40 High Gates Rd BANWR Sasabe AZ

grass Mesquite tree frame Baboquivari PK sunset clouds #40 High Gates Rd BANWR Sasabe AZHelicopter flew very low over the ridgeline above camp just before the gorgeous sunset.

truckcamper sunset clouds #40 High Gates Rd BANWR Sasabe AZLife is good at camp Buenos Aires NWR.  However, I paid a price for sitting outside, in shorts, because tiny black flies of some sort bit the shit out of my lower legs.  I welted to dime-size from every bite, and even with cortisone creme itched all night.

Black-throated Sparrow bird #40 High Gates Rd BANWR Sasabe AZBlack-throated Sparrow

Must need more birds around here to eat the bugs.

In the morning, windows and door open, something sweet in the air.  Ah, the scent of Buenos Aires NWR.  Except for itching, I happily stayed inside working on blog posts, photos, and videos.  Planning the next leg of this journey, researching online because I could.

grass pink Fairyduster flowers Mesquite tree frame Baboquivari PK sunset clouds #40 High Gates Rd BANWR Sasabe AZPlus I made it out for another sunset shot of Baboquivari Peak framed in a Mesquite tree with the soft light of Fairdusters at its feet.

grass Mesquite trees Baboquivari Mts clouds #40 Buenos Aires NWR Sasabe AZI stayed through Tuesday, absorbing my little part of Buenos Aires NWR.  I could have seen more by driving to other parts of the refuge but will leave that until next time.

Mesquite trees Arivaca Crk trl BANWR AZYet in the morning I continued east making a stop at Arivaca Creek trail.

Gaelyn Arivaca Crk trl BANWR AZSadly no water to nourish the towering Cottonwood trees and riparian area.  I did meet two wonderful “local” ladies along the trail.

Cruz ranch ruins Arivaca Crk trl BANWR AZWandering off the main path lead to the old Cruze ranch (according to the ladies) but I couldn’t find any more information.  The arbor, walkways, and shop/barn looked stout built.

Cruze ranch ruins Arivaca Crk trl BANWR AZ

window Cruze ranch ruins Arivaca Crk trl BANWR AZCruze ranch ruins Arivaca Crk trl BANWR AZ

Though quite deteriorated, the house appeared to be a decent sized 3-room adobe-mud brick covered with limestone plaster that had seen fire as all the wood lintels and roof were burned.  There was evidence of electricity and piped in water.

grass Mesquite tree Baboquivari Mts sunset clouds #40 High Gates Rd BANWR Sasabe AZOne more Buenos Aires NWR sunset

I left there about 10:30am and driving the slow rolling hills and curves at mostly 35mph it took me two hours to get to Tubac and Interstate 19 where I headed south to my next stop for the day.

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Arizona, Buenos Aires NWR, Places I've been, United States abandoned ranches, bird watching, boondocking 23 Comments
31 May 2022

Days to play after going to town


Geogypsy

Thursday is town day, avoiding most working people’s weekend, and leaves me six days to play every week.  This retirement thing just might work out.  Especially if I only have to go to town every other week.  That’s my goal leaving more days to play.  I mean why is it, when I lived 2 1/2 hours from shopping I only went to town every 3-4 weeks, and now only 30 minutes away I go weekly.  Ugh.  Not my cup of tea.  Speaking of tea, note my new profile pic to match the rest of my struggling new Geogypsy brand on YouTube.  More about that coming.


Prickly Poppy Skull Valley AZ

Anyway, another reason for Thursday to town includes stopping at the dump weekly.  One 13 gallon bag, and sometimes something else, ranges from $1-$3, depending on who’s there or maybe a whim.  I don’t know.  It’s cheap enough.  That also being the southern direction for this town day about an hour away to Wickenburg.  It would be warmer 2200 feet lower in elevation so I took off early for me.

Prickly Poppies at the gate

repaving Iron Springs Rd Kirkland AZOf course the road is being resealed, it’s summer around here.  Stopped along the way at Peeples Valley Market and bought local ground beef plus filled the camper’s propane tanks to refrigerate my groceries for the return journey.  Drove through Yarnell and took video driving down the Yarnell Hill on SR89 because I’ve wanted to for a long time.  Haven’t shared yet.  Made a thrift store donation of—dare I say—outgrown clothes, and bought a couple summer tops and shorts.  I haven’t needed summer clothes in many years as I usually wore a uniform.  After stocking up groceries for an anticipated two weeks, I returned via Congress to meet Gypsy for lunch.  Two hours later, I discovered the local laundromat closed.  Minimal hand wash would get me through another week.

sunset clouds Skull Valley AZNice way to end a long day.

Sierra cat on desk Skull Valley AZFirst of six days to play often becomes a down day, recovery sort of from all the running around from town day.  I’m not entirely lazy as I work on the computer and online.  Why do I call it work?  Not used to retirement so I have personal work that I’m going to start calling play.  What the heck, nobody’s paying me to do this, yet.  I loved my work for so many years it’s a hard habit to break.  OK, I will admit to a lot of reading on the couch, with my feet elevated.  And thus, the only photo taken, from said couch.

sign Please Close GateBesides, the next morning was another early rise to beat the heat as I met Joann at the gate around 7am for a day trip in search of flowering cactus.

horses feeding fence mts AZJust the other side of Brushy Mountain from where I live, in the Lower Kirkland Valley a gravel sideroad caught our eyes.  We stopped regularly to take photos.  This is ranch country, horses and cattle.

Turkey Vulture birds perched Kirkland AZ

Turkey Vulture bird roosting Kirkland AZTurkey Vulture bird roosting Kirkland AZ

                                                                           Hello handsome

A wake of Turkey Vultures alerted us to a small wetland.  They perched at the top of mostly dead trees, some exposing stretched wings to the morning sun.  There was very little water.

Willows nursery log Kirkland AZGrowing out of a nursery tree

pink Desert willow tree flowers Kirkland AZYet enough to support the Desert Willow with showy blooms.

rd desert mts SR96 AZ

gate frames moon AZBack on pavement it was not long before a wide shoulder with a closed but not locked gate beckoned.  It appeared to be State Trust Land presumably “leased” to graze cattle. More about that in the video.

yellow Prickly Pear cactus flowers AZ

bee inside yellow Pickley Pear cactus flower SR96 AZbee inside yellow Pickley Pear cactus flower SR96 AZ

I was glad to see even sparse flowers on the Prickly Pear cactus though many were already gone.  Lots of pollinators doing their jobs.

cactus boulders SR96 AZ

Saguaro cactus flowers & buds AZWe continued westward, downhill through a curvy canyon noting the limited shoulder parking for the return drive.  Certainly in Saguaro country and just starting to flower.

gravel rd AZ

Santa Maria R AZAnother gravel sideroad drew us along 13 miles according to a sign, sometimes following the Santa Maria River/dry wash.  Almost turned around a couple times, but what’s just up ahead pulled us on.  Plus, even without looking at a map the direction would dump us onto a known highway.

broken windmill abandoned ranch Santa Maria R Rd AZSaguaro cactus buds Santa Maria R Rd AZ

Stopped at an abandoned ranch which I included in the video and saw more Saguaros covered with buds but only a few flowers.  Just a little early.

valley below Bagdad AZValley below Bagdad

Sure enough, we ended up on US93 and went north a short ways then looped back to SR96 and took a left to Bagdad for lunch.

cabin AZ

abandoned house desert AZTurned around and closed the loop with an additional stop for yet another abandoned building (again in the video).

wrinkled Saguaro cactus SR96 AZOnce back on the road towards home, thought I saw a cristate or crested-like Saguaro.  Located high above the road without a good place to park I merely snapped a few quick shots.  Once the images were on the computer and I could zoom in an extremely wrinkled cactus appeared.  I was told by a Sonoran Desert Ranger friend it’s a wannabe cristate.

It took nine hours to cover 180 miles of fun and still had four days of play left to my week.

Raven bird walking Skull Valley AZI spent the entire next day playing with photos and making a video of the previous day’s adventure.

trees boulders Skull Valley AZHad to balance out all that sitting at the computer so dragged my butt out for another early morning walk.

meadow trees boulders Skull Valley AZGone for 1 1/2 hours and barely walked half a mile.  I feel a little guilty even calling it a walk.  Especially as I’ve been watching two friends walk the 500 mile Camino de Santiago.  But for me this is good.  It would take me a lifetime to walk that far.

Cottonwoods Skull Valley AZWalked west through the gravel pit and to the big wash that had just a little bit of puddle water.

dead tree boulders Skull Valley AZOf course I took video and haven’t done anything with it, yet.  It’s an interesting balancing act carrying the big camera and using the phone for video, but I’m getting better at it.

Whiptail lizard Skull Valley AZWhiptail lizard

I am easily entertained by my window views and think I live in Lizard Land where there seems unlimited days to play.  So many different species.

Gamble Quail birds Skull Valley AZThe Gamble Quail strut by every morning, and if not within sight of each other call back and forth, and back and forth, and…  Repeat that show in the late afternoon.  Could be a nest nearby but I haven’t seen any little ones.  I continue to dream about summer travel.  Yet may have to be content with days to play on the ranch.  It’s not a bad place to be.

old car Skull Valley AZI know, I’m pushing the videos.  Trying hard to set some goals which include continued traveling on a limited Social Security income.  I didn’t plan for retirement because I figured I’d have to work until I die.  Seasonal employees for the National Park Service don’t earn retirement.  It was a trade off, but retirement reality is setting in.  I have skills and should be able to earn supplemental income doing what I love, travel, write, photograph, share stories, and now video.  So, I’ve taken on a new job called play.  And I’ll share more about that coming up.  In the meantime, I created another video introducing myself to the YouTube world.  And then ran out of days to play because it was Thursday, and you know what that means.  I didn’t make it two weeks between town runs because I HAD to get the laundry done.

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Arizona, Bagdad, Kirkland, Places I've been, Skull Valley, United States abandoned ranches, birds, cactus, cristate, flowers, road trip 25 Comments

Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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