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Category: travel

29 January 2013

Packing for 6 weeks in South Africa

6 days or 6 weeks, probably doesn’t matter, I would pack the same amount of stuff any way. How much to pack is more related to what you do where, than for how long. After all laundry facilities and stores are almost everywhere.

Lioness Kruger NP

Activity related gear

I’ll be spending quite a bit of time sitting in a car while on self-drive safari so will bring binoculars. But really, the camera is my most important gear, and all the stuff that goes with it which will be carefully packed in my carry-on.  Still trying to decide whether to take the tripod. What do you think?

Plus all the other techie stuff like netbook, wireless mouse because I don’t like the built in pad, external hard drive to store photos, 12v/USB plug, and a power converter to reduce from 220 to 110.

I don’t plan any major hiking like last time so don’t need to bring a backpack or big clunky boots. However I will be prepared for some easy day hikes with my fanny-pack and tennis shoes. And because I’ll be car-camping the tiny backpacker’s stove (no fuel) and headlamp will get taken along. I can buy a tent and air mattress there.

Clothes to pack

Clothes & Accessories

I could live in the same clothes for a lot of days because I hate to do laundry. And what the heck I’m camping. Fortunately many caravan parks/campgrounds have laundry facilities. I’m no fashionista but do like color coordination which allows for mix-n-match. Having a skirt along means I could dress up a bit but they’ll be no heels. With Feb/March temperatures in the subtropics ranging H83/L64 F (29/18 C) light weight is needed and can always be layered for warmth.

Many travelers suggest cubes or space-bags to compress and organize clothing. I usually fold things and just look wrinkled. Maybe I’ll try rolling clothes this time and see if that works better. I’ll wear a fleece jacket and my bulky tennis shoes on the plane.

Yes, I’m a jewelry freak but I leave the bling at home. Because I don’t travel full luxury with a body guard one necklace, a ring and pair of earrings that I can wear all the time is my limit. And a colorful scarf can jazz up even a t-shirt. Plus then I have an excuse to buy something there.

Personals

Besides the bulk and weight plus the hassle with 4oz fluid limitations, shampoo, crème rinse, mouth wash, etc. are just easier to buy at the destination. Travel towels are small and dry quickly. I pack them in a plastic bag and then try not to forget about them when wet.

Vitamins

Hair bands are wrapped around the hair brush handle then I stick that in a shoe. I’ll take a spare pair of eye glasses and the prescription too. To reduce the bulk of containers I’ve packed daily vitamins in small zip-lock bags. The one prescription medication I take will stay in the original bottle with the script attached. Every country is different, but South Africa allows 30 days’ worth of medications.

Extras

I never go anywhere without a map, even if it’s just a few pages. Because my Smart phone isn’t global I won’t have access to immediate maps like at home. I’m also taking a guide book but I rarely find time to read anything beyond that.

Stuff to pack

This trip I’m adding a few spare batteries because I discovered the right size can be difficult to find. I’m throwing a spork and can opener in a coffee cup because I don’t need to collect any more of them. Plus a pillowcase for dirty laundry, or maybe two to cover questionable looking pillows. I could even use the laundry bag as a pillow, if the clothes aren’t too smelly.

And some gifts, small things for special people met along the way. I’m taking some hatpins from the Grand Canyon.

Carry-on and suitcase

Suitcase or backpack

This is a very individual choice including whether to check bags or not. I used to carry a backpack but now have bum shoulders so it’s a suitcase on wheels for me. And I’ll be checking that and taking a carry-on too which will have at least one pair of clean underwear and my toothbrush along with the camera gear and netbook. I’ll be traveling in a private and rental car so thankfully won’t have to schlep my case in and out of busses.

Very Important Papers

I’m not paranoid but do have to consider all possibilities. I make Word files of important info like serial numbers for items of value, addresses, passwords, etc. Also scan copies of important documents like Drivers License, passport, credit cards, etc. And take photos of everything packed. Then I email this information to two people I trust implicitly and to myself.

It’s called cover your ass because shit happens. We all hope not but in the event luggage and/or purse are lost or stolen having documentation could make life just a little easier.

I always pack too much but am getting better. I’m leaving the kitchen sink home this time. 😉 If I forgot it then I’ll either buy it there or live without. Many large stores are available in urban areas of South Africa and the good rate of exchange often makes it worth buying there instead of packing it.

So what do you think? Did I forget anything? There’s still four days before I leave for six weeks in South Africa.

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16 January 2013

Cruising the Karoo in South Africa

Karoo

The Karoo has nothing to do with Kangaroo.  It’s a huge portion of central and western South Africa known as the Karoo, a semi-desert region with two main sub-regions—the Great Karoo in the north and the Little Karoo in the south. The western section is the Succulent Karoo, situated in a winter rainfall region near the Atlantic coast.  I’ll be traveling through the more desert-like Little, or Klein Karoo.

satellite image Karoo South Africa

Western and eastern Karoo from NASA

Yes, I’m still researching places I want to visit in South Africa.  Once I’m done exploring Golden Gate Highlands National Park the journey south towards the coast crosses at least 375 miles (600k) of the Karoo.

At one time large herds of antelope, zebra and other large game roamed the grassy flats.  But with the occupation by European settlers in the mid-1700s, sheep gradually replaced the game and the cover of grass degenerated due to over grazing.  Sheep farming is still the economic backbone of the Karoo along with game farms and tourism.

Great Fish River Bridge Eastern Cape South Africa

Crossing Great Fish River near the coast

Cradock

The historic town of Cradock, called the Heartland of the Karoo, sits on the banks of the Great Fish River and is a chief center for South Africa’s wool industry.  Although I’ll be here during summer it couldn’t hurt to plan ahead for cold spring and fall at the Grand Canyon and find some angora fleece woven into socks, blankets and beanies.  Plus word is that “foodies” are crazy about the Karoo mutton because of the special flavor from the sheep grazing on herbed bushes.  Pre-spiced might be nice.

And just north of town the Cradock Spa offers sulfur baths (temp 38°C (100°F) used for the treatment of rheumatism.  Might just be a good place to camp and soak for a night, if it’s not too hot outside.

Mountain Zebra

Just west of Cradock, Mountain Zebra National Park works to save the dwindling Cape mountain zebra population.  The park boasts a conservation success story protecting over 700 zebra as well as wildlife such as endangered black rhino and cheetah.  These zebra differ from the Burchell’s zebra I’ll see in Kruger National Park by having narrower stripes, absence of shadow stripes and orange facial coloration.

Addo

I can’t quite wrap my head around where the southern edge of the Karoo lies, maybe right before the coast.  But Addo Elephant National Park stretches from the semi-arid karoo in the north, over the Zuurberg Mountains, through the Sundays River valley and south to the Indian Ocean.  This much biodiversity within about 60 miles (96k) drive even at a slow-poke park crawl must be like watching a fast forward movie.  Of course I don’t want to hurry through and miss anything.  In fact I can see spending a couple days here.

Elephants Addo Elephant NP Eastern Cape South Africa

The original elephant section of the park was proclaimed in 1931, when only sixteen elephants remained in the area.  Today the park provides sanctuary to over 550 elephants plus lions, buffalo, black rhino, spotted hyena, leopard, a variety of antelope and zebra species, as well as the unique Addo flightless dung beetle.  I know you’re waiting with held breath for photos of them all and especially that beetle.

Indian Ocean view from drive through Addo Elephant NP Eastern Cape South Africa

Looking out on the Indian Ocean from Addo

As far as I can figure looking at various maps the southern entrance/exit of Addo cruises from Karoo to coast and darn near drops into Port Elizabeth.  Another spot on my list of places to visit plus meet up with a fellow blogger.  Then turn west to Tsitsikamma.

Have you been through the Karoo and have places to suggest that I just shouldn’t miss?  I’m into detours.

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10 January 2013

Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa is on the list of parks to visit

All national parks offer something different, and Golden Gate Highlands National Park in the Free State of South Africa may not have the Big 5 but is abundant in wildlife, birds, grasslands and towering sandstone cliffs full of geologic and cultural wonders.

Brandberg Golden Gate Highlands NP
Brandberg Golden Gate Highlands NP by Jonker Fourie

And it’s one of many national parks I’ll be visiting.  I’m a national park junkie because I believe that saving and protecting places of natural and cultural importance is for now and forever.  I can see staying at Golden Gate Highlands for several days as there is much to see and do.  Located on the northern border of Lesotho in the Maloti Mountains with the Drakensberg Mountains to the south this is one of the smaller protected areas in the country and one of the highest too.  Why is it that so many  parks have been created because of the biggest, tallest, oldest or deepest something?

Golden Gate Highlands NP map

 

Geology

Golden Gate National Park got its name from the high sandstone cliffs which glow in the late afternoon sun.  That means I have to catch sunset there, hopefully more than once.  And although not a geologist I am fascinated by the processes that create massive landscapes and try to learn a little ahead of a visit then put that story in my mind.

stratification at Golden Gate Highlands NP

The bottom red layer, Elliott mudstone, was created 200 million years ago when swampy rivers deposited a mud-like sediment.  196 million years ago, the area dried up and became a desert with sand dunes resulting in the yellow Clarens sandstone.  Over the years, water moving through the sandstone caused a buildup of calcium carbonate in some layers which cemented the sand particles into the harder rock of Calcified Sandstone.  The heat and pressure of molten lava from 160-190 million years ago during volcanic activity cooked the sandstone layer beneath turning it into quartzite. Then rivers and streams carved through the layers of rocks to reveal the formations present today.

 

Wildlife

bearded vulture
Bearded vulture

Mineral rich soil from the eroded rocks allowed vast grasslands on this high plateau which provides for many grazing animals like the zebra, wildebeest, eland, hartebeest and oribi.   I sure hope to see and photograph not only the mammals but the rare bearded vulture and endangered bald ibis.  I’m taking a small field guide along in the hopes of identifying these unknown creatures.

Plus the fossil evidence of Massospondylus dinosaurs from 100 million years prior to other discoveries reveals at least 10 nesting sites with eggs and baby dino footprints.  How cool is that.

 

Cultural history

san-rock-painting

Rock-art found near some of the many caves indicate people living here 1000s of years ago known as the Khoisan or Bushman.  During the early 1800s when European farmers arrived the Bushman left.  Then war ensued throughout the next century and into the 1900s during the Anglo-Boer wars ending with British victory in 1910.  In 1962, the government bought Golden Gate and handed the land over to the National Parks Board.

Today the park plays an important social-economic role in the area.  It lies between the town of Clarens where wealthy Johannesburg residence come to spend their weekends, and Qwa-Qwa one of the poorest areas in the country.  So the park helps create jobs through tourism, activities and development projects.

 

Things to do and places to stay

Hiking, horseback riding, loop drives and camping are popular in Golden Gate Highlands.  Trails range from a few hours to a couple days.  Two loop drives go through grasslands with mountain views and wildlife.  Guided horseback rides are recommended as the most effective way to see the otherwise inaccessible hills and valleys.  I’d like to take a ride while there.  Plus the Glen Reenen Rest Camp offers campsites and chalets by the river.

There is a tour into the Basotho Cultural Village where actors depict various aspects of traditional Sotho life and overnight arrangements can be made.  But I think I’d rather see the real thing across the border in Lesotho.

If roughing it isn’t your thing the Golden Gate Hotel lies in the heart of the park with a lodge, restaurant, bar and coffee shop.

 

By visiting national parks we can learn not only about the place and the culture but ourselves as well.  Always keep in mind to tread lightly and support the local communities. Then share with others the wonders of the world so they too want to preserve these places whether they visit in person or not.  I’m excited about using my Wild Card to visit many national parks in South Africa.

What have you learned about a national park you’ve visited?

 

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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