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Category: South Africa

10 January 2013

Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa is on the list of parks to visit

All national parks offer something different, and Golden Gate Highlands National Park in the Free State of South Africa may not have the Big 5 but is abundant in wildlife, birds, grasslands and towering sandstone cliffs full of geologic and cultural wonders.

Brandberg Golden Gate Highlands NP
Brandberg Golden Gate Highlands NP by Jonker Fourie

And it’s one of many national parks I’ll be visiting.  I’m a national park junkie because I believe that saving and protecting places of natural and cultural importance is for now and forever.  I can see staying at Golden Gate Highlands for several days as there is much to see and do.  Located on the northern border of Lesotho in the Maloti Mountains with the Drakensberg Mountains to the south this is one of the smaller protected areas in the country and one of the highest too.  Why is it that so many  parks have been created because of the biggest, tallest, oldest or deepest something?

Golden Gate Highlands NP map

 

Geology

Golden Gate National Park got its name from the high sandstone cliffs which glow in the late afternoon sun.  That means I have to catch sunset there, hopefully more than once.  And although not a geologist I am fascinated by the processes that create massive landscapes and try to learn a little ahead of a visit then put that story in my mind.

stratification at Golden Gate Highlands NP

The bottom red layer, Elliott mudstone, was created 200 million years ago when swampy rivers deposited a mud-like sediment.  196 million years ago, the area dried up and became a desert with sand dunes resulting in the yellow Clarens sandstone.  Over the years, water moving through the sandstone caused a buildup of calcium carbonate in some layers which cemented the sand particles into the harder rock of Calcified Sandstone.  The heat and pressure of molten lava from 160-190 million years ago during volcanic activity cooked the sandstone layer beneath turning it into quartzite. Then rivers and streams carved through the layers of rocks to reveal the formations present today.

 

Wildlife

bearded vulture
Bearded vulture

Mineral rich soil from the eroded rocks allowed vast grasslands on this high plateau which provides for many grazing animals like the zebra, wildebeest, eland, hartebeest and oribi.   I sure hope to see and photograph not only the mammals but the rare bearded vulture and endangered bald ibis.  I’m taking a small field guide along in the hopes of identifying these unknown creatures.

Plus the fossil evidence of Massospondylus dinosaurs from 100 million years prior to other discoveries reveals at least 10 nesting sites with eggs and baby dino footprints.  How cool is that.

 

Cultural history

san-rock-painting

Rock-art found near some of the many caves indicate people living here 1000s of years ago known as the Khoisan or Bushman.  During the early 1800s when European farmers arrived the Bushman left.  Then war ensued throughout the next century and into the 1900s during the Anglo-Boer wars ending with British victory in 1910.  In 1962, the government bought Golden Gate and handed the land over to the National Parks Board.

Today the park plays an important social-economic role in the area.  It lies between the town of Clarens where wealthy Johannesburg residence come to spend their weekends, and Qwa-Qwa one of the poorest areas in the country.  So the park helps create jobs through tourism, activities and development projects.

 

Things to do and places to stay

Hiking, horseback riding, loop drives and camping are popular in Golden Gate Highlands.  Trails range from a few hours to a couple days.  Two loop drives go through grasslands with mountain views and wildlife.  Guided horseback rides are recommended as the most effective way to see the otherwise inaccessible hills and valleys.  I’d like to take a ride while there.  Plus the Glen Reenen Rest Camp offers campsites and chalets by the river.

There is a tour into the Basotho Cultural Village where actors depict various aspects of traditional Sotho life and overnight arrangements can be made.  But I think I’d rather see the real thing across the border in Lesotho.

If roughing it isn’t your thing the Golden Gate Hotel lies in the heart of the park with a lodge, restaurant, bar and coffee shop.

 

By visiting national parks we can learn not only about the place and the culture but ourselves as well.  Always keep in mind to tread lightly and support the local communities. Then share with others the wonders of the world so they too want to preserve these places whether they visit in person or not.  I’m excited about using my Wild Card to visit many national parks in South Africa.

What have you learned about a national park you’ve visited?

 

Capturing the present for future memories of the past

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National Park, South Africa, travel 33 Comments
08 January 2013

National Park Pass or Wild Card in South Africa

Do you have a National Park pass?  If you visit more than 4-5 national parks a year in the US you certainly should.  In South Africa you should buy a Wild Card for the same reason.  Saves you money on entrance fees and helps the parks.

Orpen Gate Reception Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA
Orpen Gate Reception area Kruger National Park

South Africa’s SanParks operates much like our National Park Service with a mission to “develop, manage and promote a system of national parks that represents the biodiversity and heritage assets by applying best practice, environmental justice, benefit sharing and sustainable use.”

Zebra Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA

And they offer the Wild Card which gives unlimited access to more than 80 Parks and Reserves around Southern Africa.  Membership is valid from date of purchase for 365 days and is available for an individual, couple or family.

Wild Card South Africa National Park pass

I’ll purchase a new Wild Card at the first park I visit as my old one expired and a few things have changed since 2010.

How do you support national parks?

 

Capturing the present for future memories of the past.

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national parks, South Africa national parks, South Africa, travel, Wild Card 12 Comments
16 December 2012

South Africa transportation options

01 SA flag

While researching options for transportation within South Africa I’ve discovered several luxurious, my ideal, and budget modes of conveyance.  Having traveled there before I know it’s safe in most places, even as a solo female.  Preferences are personal and financial choices.  I tend to be a middle of the road traveler, not quite straddling the center line.  So I usually go for somewhere between my ideal and budget.

 

By plane because a cruise takes too long

I bought airplane tickets for my two month journey after several months of searching for the best deal.  This time Kayak came through.  Prices varied up to a $500 difference.  Had to work the return flight around Easter, a school break with many people traveling, and my birthday just five days before.  Johannesburg here I come.

02 SA tickets 2

From the USA to South Africa, 10,111 miles, has me leaving one day and arriving the next.  Time to dig out the support stockings so my feet don’t swell up like last time.  The first leg of only 3.5 hours from Phoenix to JFK/New York shouldn’t be too bad even on a narrow body Jet Blue.  Thank goodness for the luxury on South Africa Air’s wide body for the next 21.5 hours.  A pillow and blanket await on the seat for an overnight flight plus a personal kit including washcloth, toothbrush and eye mask.  Once in flight a free and tasty dinner is served and before landing free breakfast.  I saw many options upon ticket purchase from Asian to Vegan, or meat, all at no extra cost.  My last experience felt like eating at a good restaurant with a safety tray.  On top of that, they serve free alcoholic beverages.  Yea,you read right, free.  That does not happen in the USA in economy.

I hope to sleep after dinner is cleared and wake up relatively refreshed in Johannesburg in the morning.  Knowing long flights usually mean heavy jet-lag I’ll try to go with the destination time zone and not just go to sleep immediately after arrival.  Arriving in Johannesburg at 8:30am will give me plenty of time to retrieve luggage, go through customs, eat and settle in somewhere.  It’s sure to be an early bedtime but I want to be up and about in the morning.

Major airports are located in Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town with many other options along the coast and inland.  That could be convenient if my journey doesn’t end back in Joburg where my return flight is booked from.

 

Driving makes sense, just takes a lot of dollars

Once I get there how should I get around?  I’m not a backpacking traveler any more due to bad shoulders from carrying too much for too long.  Yet I love to camp and so do many in South Africa with over 700 caravan parks—campgrounds—to choose from.  Being a 20-year veteran of the RV lifestyle my ideal would be to travel in a campervan, not a big motor home or towing a trailer.  May be a way to fill a teenage fantasy VW bus, or Kombi.

03 lekker campervan

I’ve only found two businesses that rent a van-like camper, Wicked Africa and Lekker. These 2-berth campers provide the basics for cooking, food storage and sleeping.  Perfect, except for the expense of longer than a one month hire.  Comparing those prices with renting a little car cuts expenses in half even buying some camping equipment once I get there.

The roads were in good condition right before the 2010 Cup except for some construction.  And even then less than I see here in the States.  Many of the National roads charge a toll but in some cases the free pre-National roads run                                                 Lekker VW campervan nearby and through communities and landscapes at a slower pace.  My own pace.                                                                                                       

04 wicked africa campervan

     Can you see me rolling down the road in one of these unique paint jobs from Wicked? 

 

 

 

 

Public Transport

The best budget option for getting around would be by bus and taxi.  Minivan-taxis are the most common local transportation everywhere I went in South Africa, even the one I literally bumped into, while it was parked and no one was hurt.  They can be more than overly crowded and not my preference especially with luggage.  Bus options include Greyhound or Bazbus which caters to backpackers with a hop-on/hop-off option and stops at hostels.

My preference includes stopping absolutely wherever I want, within safety, and choose my own route.  But other affordable options make travel possible on your own chosen budget.

 

Leave the driving to them and enjoy the view         06 Lion Night ride Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x771)

OK, having just said I want to drive, I do see the advantage of letting someone else do the driving, at least once in a while for photography reasons alone.  Although I am known for photog-driving that’s only possible with the small Fuji I had to buy after loosing my P&S to the Indian Ocean.

South Africa seems a land of tours, city, townships, safari and walking.  So many as to be overwhelming and my list will certainly be longer than the time I have.  I’ve found South Africa Tourism very helpful during my research for this journey.

Tours will add some expense to the journey yet I believe a few will be worthy for the information from a local guide.

 

Over the long haul

South Africa has an extensive rail network, commuter and long distance.  There’s the famous and luxurious Blue Train which I find a bit expensive.  However the more economized “Purple” train called the Shosholoza Meyl (meaning pleasant experience) Tourist Class follows the same route over 956 miles (1530 km) in two days.

purple train

Tourist class trains consist exclusively of sleeping cars (2 & 4-berth compartments) and a restaurant car serving full meals, snacks, beer and wine. The sleepers even have hot showers at the end of the corridor.  Economy class trains consist of sitter class seats and sometimes a restaurant car.

The only “long” train ride I’ve taken, almost 40 years ago, couldn’t have been more than a couple hundred miles from Chicago to Carbondale, Illinois.  So I’m considering the Purple train from Cape Town to Johannesburg at the end of my journey.  It’s almost the same price as the three hour flight but  in my case, not in a hurry.

So my ideal choices are plane, train and campervan although I’m not sure that’s what I’ll end up with.

How would you choose to travel in South Africa?

06 Pilgrims Rest camp Mpumalanga ZA (1024x768)

March 2010 Pilgrims Rest camp Mpumalanga

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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