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Category: South Africa

14 April 2013

Wildlife share the waters in Kruger National Park

Predator and prey alike must share the waters during flood and drought.  Yet it can be an eat or get eaten world.  Just part of the balance of nature.  I love National Parks for offering at least a possibility of that balance, with us included.  But that doesn’t mean I want to swim with the crocodiles.

Closed bridge over Olifants River Kruger NP SA

Closed over the Oliphant’s River

Flood & drought

Just like other parts of the world, South Africa deals with the continuous cycles of flood and drought which effects wildlife and human visitors to National Parks.  1991/92 was regarded as being the lowest rain fall in living memory in many parts of the country.  Yet large floods occurred in 2000 and 2013 requiring evacuations from camp areas and the closure of roads and bridges in Kruger National Park.  An inconvenience for visitors but important because they reorganize the physical environment by eroding and depositing sediment, removing riparian vegetation, and redistributing nutrients.

The winter months from May to August are traditionally dry with little rain.  November to March is the typical summer rainy season.  Depending on the region, rainfall varies from 1.3 feet (400 mm) to 2.4 feet (720 mm) per year.

Lions Kruger NP SA

My visit during February brought a few nights of down pour yet days were sunny and dry.  But because of the heavy January rains the tall grasses provided thick cover making some wildlife difficult to see,  until we got near water where they provided quite a sight.

Olifants River Kruger NP SA

Dams & rivers

Five major river systems traverse Kruger National Park including the Luvuvhu River in the north, the Crocodile River forming the southern boundary, and the Letaba, Olifants and Sabie rivers in-between.  Because this near 50 thousand acre (2 million hectare) park was once fenced, natural migration was limited so artificial water sources were added between the 1930s and 1980s by drilling boreholes to create water holes/dams, and some perennial rivers were dammed.  Some dams remain open more for tourism purposes than ecosystem management.

After documenting a rise and fall in certain animal populations the park changed its water policy in 1997 in an attempt to simulate the natural distribution of water.  In a natural system, the dry season will see natural waterholes disappear so animals are forced to go the rivers and larger pools.  However, when the wet season hits, streams, rivers and pools fill with water providing nature with all its needs and the game moves back into the bush.  At the beginning of this century fences between adjacent parks and countries started to come down allowing the animals to take up their old migratory routes.

  Animal tracks in sand Kruger NP SA

And hanging out by the water is a good place to see wildlife although you might not expect to see Crocs, Hippos and birds in the same stretch of water, it happens.  While cruising the roads in Kruger National Park, Joan and me in our car-cage, I mused about this sharing of the water.  What eats what that they can all get along?  Wildlife, much like humans, vary in being fish eaters, vegetarians and meat eaters.

Omnivores/meat and vegetables

OMG, they’ll eat almost anything.

Social Weaver nests Kruger NP SA

Social Weavers mostly eat insects and seeds.  Lots of insects over the waters where they built this large compound of community nests that consist of separate chambers.

Black-necked Heron & Spur-winged Goose Addo Elephant NP SA

Spur-winged geese are the largest African waterfowl.  They eat larvae, pupae, aquatic animals, plant material, seeds, small fish, snails and crabs.  The larger black-necked heron seen in this image is actually carnivorous eating fish, crabs, insects, reptiles, small mammals and even other smaller birds.  Good thing that’s a big goose.

Black-backed Jackal & birds Addo Elephant National Park SA

Black-backed jackals feed on beetles, grasshoppers, crickets, termites, millipedes, spiders, scorpions, rodents, hares, lizards, snakes, birds and young antelopes, plus occasionally fruits and berries.  Their eating habits remind me of the opportunist coyotes.  But this one didn’t get fowl for lunch that day.

Herbivores/vegetarians

Seems some of the largest animals survive quite well as vegetarians.

Buffalo in river Kruger NP SA

Buffalo are primarily grazers, and like to drink twice a day when they often wade into the water up to their bellies.

Hippopotamus yawning Kruger NP SA

The hippopotamus is semi-aquatic inhabiting rivers, lakes and swamps.  During the day they remain cool by staying in the water or mud and they emerge at dusk to graze on grass.

Elephants eat roots, grasses, fruit, and bark.  An adult African elephant can eat up to 295 pounds (134 kilograms) of food and drink about 50 gallons (190 liters) of water each day.

Giraffe drinking water Kruger NP SA

Giraffe are browsers and select mainly leaves and buds on trees and shrubs.  Herbs, climbers and vines are also eaten, likewise flowers and fruit are preferred when in season.  Getting a drink requires being a contortionist to lower that long neck down to the water.

Carnivores/meat eaters

The ones to watch out for.

African Fish Eagle Kruger NP SA

The African Fish Eagle is not limited to fish, and will feed upon flamingos, ducks, lizards, baby crocodiles and carrion.  Additionally it will also happily steal catches from other birds.

Hamerkops Kruger NP SA

The Hammerkop feeds in shallow fresh water and eats frogs, insects, fish and other water creatures.

Yellow-billed Stork fishing Kruger NP SA

Yellow-billed storks primarily eat small crustaceans, fish, frogs, aquatic insects, and small mammals.  Because of their taste for aquatic creatures, yellow-billed storks follow the floodwaters, constantly in search of water with a high concentration of fish.

Crocodile Kruger NP SA

Crocodiles spend almost half their lives in water and eat pretty much anything that will get close enough to the water to be dragged in.  The adult usually eat snakes, buffalo, cattle, or anything else that gets near the water.  Including humans.  The juveniles eat insects, shellfish and fish.

Crocodile on sandbar Kruger NP SA

For all the above mentioned animals it’s more about being compatible and sharing the water.  Well, except for maybe the crocodile.

Of course many other animals come to the waters both prey and predator and would take the opportunity to eat if offered and needed.  The balance in nature is well maintained.  Especially if humankind stays out of their environment.  These are just a few of the animals I saw while visiting Kruger National Park in South Africa.

Do you think we humans could learn something from the wildlife about sharing the waters?

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South Africa Kruger National Park, photography, South Africa, wildlife 24 Comments
09 April 2013

Postcards from South Africa follow up

When I posted about sending postcards from South Africa I was surprised how many of you, who are actively online, still like to get a postcard by snail-mail.

Funny postcard from SA

My original idea was to see how long it took to get mail from South Africa to other parts of the world.  Surprisingly, the average was about two weeks although MB’s card made it in five days to Washington while it took three weeks for Jonker’s card to arrive and he lives in South Africa.  At least it seems that most of the postcards did arrive eventually.

Cheetah postcard from SA

I sent 10 postcards to readers, plus a few to other friends, and all but two are accounted for.  If you’d like to see a few of them check out their posts at Karen from FabGrandma,  Diane from Life in Charente, and Alan from Yogi’s Den.

South African stamps

There was rumor of a postal strike in South Africa but according to South African Postal Services,  “The strike is taking place only at Witspos Mail Centre in Johannesburg and Tshwane Mail Centre in Pretoria. Local mail in other provinces is not affected.  The strike, which started on 14 February this year, was declared illegal on 19 February.”  So I don’t think this had any impact.

Received postcards

Maybe this is the start of something bigger.  I have now received three postcards from fellow bloggers.  One from a Yankee in Belgrade plus she sent one from her recent travels to India.  And  Debi sent a card from North Carolina where she lives on the beach.

Postcard from SAMREC PE SA

This was fun and I hope to continue the tradition of sending postcards from my travels.

How about you?  Do you like to receive snail mail that isn’t a bill?  Think about sending postcards to your family, friends, and fellow bloggers.  Even to me.

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02 April 2013

Driving famous mountain passes in South Africa

I love being in the mountains wherever I am so drove several famous mountain passes in South Africa.  And from all the recommendations I received from locals and other travelers I’m obviously not the only one who likes driving in the mountains.  Curvy mountain roads may not be to everyone’s liking but I find them a breathtaking challenge.  The Western, Eastern and Northern Capes of South Africa have more than 490 mountain passes that also challenged engineers to build roads providing access for transportation and linking the countryside.

View NE from top of Swartberg Pass SA

View from Die Top of Swartberg Pass

Pass builders

Most notable of the 19th century road engineers were Andrew Geddes Bain who immigrated from Scotland in 1816, and his son Thomas Charles John Bain from Graaff-Reinet.  Although Andrew was not a trained engineer he built eight road passes in extremely rough terrain.  Thomas assisted his father and later passed examinations in 1854 then went on to build 24 major mountain roads and passes.  Today many of these engineering feats have been declared as National Monuments or National Heritage Roads.

Dry stack rock walls along Swartberg Pass SA

Often times the routes over the mountains and through harsh environments originated as foot paths used by the local natives and later bridle paths by horseman.  As roads often followed river beds wash outs regularly occurred.  Labor was primarily provided by convicts and prisoners of war using little more than hand drills, sledge hammers, steel bars, picks and shovels.  Instead of guardrails, walls of dry-stacked stone were placed at steep-edged drop-offs, a trademark of Thomas Bain.

Tollhouse Swartberg Pass SA

Swartberg toll house

Toll houses were built along the passes and charged two pence per wheel and one penny for each pulling animal plus two pence for a horse, cow, ox or mule and one-half a penny for a sheep, goat or pig.  I saw the remains of a couple Toll houses but the narrow roads over the kloofs and poorts weren’t always conducive to parking.

Definitions

Over a what you may be asking.  Many geographic names come from Africaans, along with English, one of several languages spoken in South Africa.  So here are some definitions you’ll need to understand this story.

Kloof means “a mountain pass or deep ravine” while poort adds “a steep narrow mountain pass usually following a river or stream.”  These Africaans’ names often honor the builder, a notable figure or local character.  Groot =  great,  stroom =  stream,  berg = mountain,  drift/drif =  or sharp corners,  fynbos = fine, delicate bush,   tarred & untarred = pavement of some sort or not as in sand road.  N roads = National, usually paved, sometimes shoulders, main routes.  R roads = Route “principale,”which I call Rural, sometimes paved, rarely shoulders.

In the order I drove some of the famous mountain passes in South Africa

Pretty much east to west

Map of Mt Passes I drove Western Cape SA

Numbered right to left & don’t know what the big circled 2 is

1. Grootrivier Pass, Nature’s Valley

My first mountain pass would have been missed if I followed directions better.  I was never lost.  Yet when turning off the N2 to Nature’s Valley on my way to Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge I took the first exit instead of the second for the R102 loop.  Starting on top of the coastal plateau at 722 feet (220 m), down to the sea plus an unnecessary loop around the one business in “town” I finally followed new directions to “the top of the pass.”  A short and sweet drive with no photos due to keeping both hands on the wheel and eyes on the left side of the road.

The Grootrivier is one of several Tsitsikamma Mountain streams that over millions of years cut through the coastal plateau towards the sea.  The pass was finished in 1880 by Thomas Bain and major reconstruction occurred in 2010.

Outeniqua Mts N12 SA

2. Outeniqua Pass

After meeting fellow blogger Jo in Knysna and following the coastal Garden Route I veered inland at George and drove north on the N12 over this 2600 foot (800 m) summit climbing a twisty route 2185 feet (666m) over the Outeniqua Mountains into the Little Karoo like I’d done during the 2010 journey when I went caving.

Thank goodness I didn’t have to drive the original road completed in 1845 in one year by surveyor Henry Fancourt White.  Or the 1943 upgrade which required eight years to complete 9 miles (14.5 km) through hard rock using the labor of Italian prisoners of war.  Instead I enjoyed the natural scenery recreated during the 1993 upgrade when engineers and environmentalists co-operated to protect the nature reserve through which the pass runs.  The four-year project included removing 1000s of plants to a nursery, stockpiling topsoil for later use, plus seeds and cuttings were collected to accomplish the largest and most successful fynbos revegetation project of its time.

Ostrich plumes Cango Ostrich Farm Oudtshoorn SA

3. Robinson Pass

I drove Robinson Pass during my last visit returning to the Garden Route from Oudtshoorn where I rode an ostrich.  Jonker who lives in nearby Port Elizabeth had recommended this gorgeous mountain route.  But this time I took an entirely different path.

Also built by Thomas Baine and named after the Chief Inspector of Public Works Murrell Robinson, this 11 mile (17 km) road with a 1128 foot (344 m) gain in elevation was completed in 1869.  The route connected Oudtshoorn’s inland ostrich farms to coastal Mossel Bay where feathers were exported around the world to adorn ladies hats.  The road was rebuilt, re-routed and finally paved between 1958 and 1963 making it an easy pass to travel.

N Little Karoo Western Cape SA

4. Schoemanspoort

Having already driven the R328 as it climbs 718 feet (219 m) from Oudtshoorn to the 1981 foot (604 m) summit at Cango Cave I was looking forward to doing it again although this time I wasn’t headed to the cave.

The 12 mile (19 km)  Schoemanspoort road was, of course, built by Thomas Bain in 1862.  Winding its way alongside the Grobelaars River past immaculate farms that also cater to the tourists with food, fun, wine tasting and accommodations.  I was headed to De Oude Meul (The Old Mill) Lodge for an overnight before heading west onto the famous wine Route 62 at the suggestion of Jo.

The Top Swartberg Pass SA

5. Swartberg Pass

Then at the recommendation of Boy Spies, 3rd generation owner/manager of The Old Mill, I changed my plans and not only drove to “Dei Top” of Swartberg Pass but down the other side and continued with yet another pass to loop back to Oudtshoorn.  In total I covered 99 miles (160 km) in five hours and could have lollygagged even longer.

Valley view SW from Swartberg Pass SA

Prince Albert Valley

This 17 mile (27 km) road is considered one of the finest mountain passes in the world with its steep zigzags and sudden switchbacks to 5193 feet (1583 m) above sea level offering panoramic views into valleys and up to the towering peaks.  It took Thomas Bain eight years directing 240 prisoners from the surrounding area to complete this, his final pass, then 100 years later in 1988 it was declared a National Monument.

East gorge view from Swartberg pass SA

Eastern view into gorge

This untarred road is “not recommended for heavy vehicles or caravans” (RVs) as posted.  However the rental VW Polo handled it like a dream.  There are countless hairpin rock-walled curves where people, including myself, stop anywhere to enjoy the views.  Like seeing the Klein Karoo from Dei Top as in the first post photo, looking down into a gorge, the road just disappears.  Several side roads beckoned to more passes that I will return for.

Swartberg pass SA

I was in awe of the tilted and folded sediments of high silicate shale exposed at every turn, the rock as twisty as the road.

Bottom east side of Swartberg SA

Eventually the road drops through the gorge and follows a little stream then levels out on the R407 to Klaarstroom.

Meringspoort Pass SA

Swartberg mountains to Meiringspoort

6. Meiringspoort

Back on the N12 I came to Meiringspoort on the way to De Rust to complete the loop to Oudtshoorn.  This 15 mile (25 km) drive only changed 393 feet (120 m) in elevation.  Mostly following along a gorge, the road crosses the Groot River 25 times over bridges built from 1948-53 that replaced the fords each called by a unique drift name relating to a memorial incident.  There is Watvaldrif named after the nearby waterfall and Spookdrif described as a supernatural light in the form of a ball of fire that was seen there.  I didn’t see that.

Meringspoort Pass SA

“In every drift there is a bend and around every bend there is a drift.”  –CJ Langehoven

 Historic Meiringspoort Pass SA

(historic photo)

The original route known as the Boer Road, completed in 1858, was built for the transport of wool from the Great Karoo to the Mossel Bay Harbor.  But due to massive flooding was upgraded by Thomas Bain in 1886.

Great Waterfall Meiringspoort Pass SA

I found a scenic place to stop at the Great Waterfall which towers 197 feet (60 m) above the pool, once thought bottomless but established at 30 feet (9 m) by divers in 1987.  An easy walk up shallow steps carved into the rock face in 1925 for a visit by the Prince of Wales ends at the upper pool but the water was too chilly for me who prefers soaking in warm water where I headed later that day after yet another mountain pass.

Huisrivier Pass W of Calitzdorp R62 SA

7. Huisrivier Pass

From Oudtshoorn I left the N12 heading west into the famous wine country on R62 late enough to be staring into the lowering sun.  Just beyond Calitzorp another pass took me over the 2181 foot (665 m) summit of the Klein Swartberge.

Originally built between 1896 and 1897—not by a Bain—the current pass is a new one having only been completed in 1966.  Still an engineering marvel that required huge chunks of the mountain face carved out of the earth leaving sheer and steep gradients which posed problems of how to prevent further rockfalls onto the road.  So retaining walls were built at some sections with a gap between the wall and the mountainside to catch rock falls. Other sections have restricting metal mesh placed over them.  Understandable, but kind of ruins the esthetics and challenge some.

This pass lead me towards a threatening looking storm that only gave a few drops, not an uncommon pattern for the Little Karoo.  After unpacking at the Warmwaterberg Spa a rainbow showed but I somehow deleted the photos.

  Kogmanskloof Montagu SA

8. Cogman’s Kloof

After three glorious days soaking at Warmwaterberg and a quick stop at Ronnies Sex Shop I headed for the hills.  When Ronnie heard how much I liked Swartberg he strongly suggested Bain’s Kloof.  Yet I had several more passes before it.

Fort on top of Cogman's tunnel SA

Cogman’s Kloof, built by Thomas Bain and completed in 1873, connects a short 4 mile (6.5 km) route between Ashton and Montagu.  Along the route is the Cogman’s Tunnel which is more like a hole through the mountain supporting the remains of an old fort built in 1899 by the English, during the Anglo Boer War.  The tunnel is also regarded as the window to the Little Karoo.

Du Toitskloof SA

9. Du Toitskloof

Having continued west on N15 I spent a night in Worcester at Jasmyn House so I could drive over this 2733 foot (833 m) pass and turn around for the recommended Bain’s Kloof.  The old R101 zig-zags around the newer N1 adding 7 miles (11 km) with no shoulders and slow trucks making passing, and photographs, difficult.

Hard to believe that this was the work of 500 Italian prisoners during World War II under the direction of the National Roads Council after Andrew Bain thought it too expensive.

Bain's Kloof SA

10. Bain’s Kloof

I flipped a 180 in Wellington and drove back over these magnificent mountains on the R301 for 17 miles (27 km) of bliss with barely any traffic and plenty of pullouts to enjoy the views.  Thanks for the excellent recommendation Ronnie.

Valley below Bain's Kloof SA

As soon as Andrew Bain completed the next pass I drove he began Bain’s Kloof which provided a more direct route from the town of Wellington to the more northern towns of Ceres and Worcester with a 1463 foot (446 m) gain in elevation over the 1922 foot (586 m) summit.  Completed in 1853 after five years of blasting  through solid rock for 6 miles (10 km) and in some places building retaining walls 65 feet (20 m) high this was Andrew’s largest accomplishment and was listed as a National Monument in 1980.

Rock formations along Mitchell's Pass SA

11. Mitchell’s Pass

Mitchell’s Pass followed Bain’s Kloof and flowed quickly only climbing 620 feet (190 m) with some most amazing rock formations but only a few places wide enough to park.  An even quicker descent lead me to Ceres where I stopped for the night at Rhodene Farm and just looked at all these mountains.

Tollhouse along Mitchell Pass SA

This pass, completed in 1849, is where Thomas Bain started his life as a road builder under apprenticeship of his father Andrew.  The old Toll House was the pay point for travelers to the diamond fields. Now it’s a maintained National Monument with a small restaurant offering local traditional foods and treats.

Late light on mountains across dam at Rhodene Farm Cottage Ceres SA

Ceres Valley is surrounded by mountains and only accessible via three passes.  I stayed on a working fruit farm at Rodene Farm Cottage and watched the colors change  the ridges around me as the sun set.

Gydo Pass Prince Albert Valley SA

Ceres Valley

12. Gydo Pass

At the recommendation of my host I drove the short 4 miles (6.5 km) just north of Ceres up 1269 feet (387 m) to Gydo Pass which offered expansive views of the valley and surrounding mountains.

This pass was built in 1848 under the supervision of Andrew Bain at the same time he worked on Mitchell’s Pass.

I then drove back down and headed over Mitchell’s Pass again continuing my journey west to the Atlantic Ocean.

 

Wasn’t like I started out seeking mountain passes but once I got into the mountains I directed my route more intentionally to enjoy the passes and views.  I still haven’t driven all the famous mountain passes in South Africa or even all of the Bain’s passes, will work on that next visit.  A big Thank You goes out to locals and other travelers for making suggestions that enhanced my  journey over some of the famous mountain passes in South Africa.  I would highly recommend visitors to explore these challenging roads and magnificent views.

 

The only link I was compensated for was Wild Spirit, all the others are just because I like them.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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  • Travel with the Bayfield Bunch
  • Wandering Earl
  • Wheeling It
  • Yogi's Den

Caught in a Slot 9×12 canvas print under $50

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Lijit

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