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Category: South Africa

02 September 2013

Relaxing at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park

Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

After leaving Knysna where I finally got to meet fellow blogger Jo I backtracked to Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park.  No, not to go ziplining again, but to just enjoy this exquisite coastline for a couple of days.

Waves crashing at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Treating myself

During my 2010 visit I spent a few rushed hours at Tsitsikamma and promised myself a return.

Chalet Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I called ahead and booked a chalet requesting a porch view of the Indian Ocean.  This was not the most expensive option but definitely more than I usually spend.  But then it did come with all the comforts, and I deserved it.

Wine glass with reflection at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

After checking in I went to lunch enjoying the view where Storms River Mouth meets the sea.

Crashing waves at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I wanted to relish a lazy day so only went for a little afternoon walk along the rocky shore.

Crashing waves at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Then returned to my chalet and spent the evening watching the waves.

Birds seen at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Plus a few birds.

Sunset Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

And a glorious sunset.

Chalet Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I loved it so much that after choosing another chalet, for a few dollars less even closer to the beach, was able to reserve for another night.

Taking a hike

Small waterfall along Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Having to wait until afternoon to move into my beachfront chalet I decided to take a short hike to the suspension bridges on The Mouth Trail.  Only a few steps from the beach located below the restaurant where the trail begins, a small waterfall trickles into a shallow pool surrounded by the dense forest.

Boardwalk section of Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Most of the trail is raised boardwalk which I respect for the land even though I like my feet on the ground.

Flowers at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Gnarly maybe blak ironwood tree along Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Thick and almost impenetrable lush growth covers the rocky landscape not far from the shore.

Suspension bridges looking down Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

After many scattered views of Storms River flowing into the Indian Ocean the trail abruptly opens to steep steps, down to the suspension bridges.

Suspension bridges Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I’m OK with heights and bridges where I walk softly with frequent stops to enjoy the experience and view.

Storms River Mouth from Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Storms River canyon from Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

But I don’t appreciate when mutual walkers on the bridge decide it’s fun to make it rock, usually in an attempt to scare their hiking companion.  (Read guy and girlfriend.)  Makes it very difficult to take sharp photos. Long enough and I’d feel seasick.  Looking up Storms River reminded me of another view I’d seen of this narrow gorge from the Paul Sauer Bridge.

Overlook above Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

The escarpment on either side of the river reaches a height of 590 feet (180 m) and the Viewpoint Trail continues 1.24 miles (2 km) up to a lookout point on the plateau which I decided to pass on.

Cobblestone beach Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma Nationa Park South Africa

Instead I marveled at the cobblestone beach, driftwood, tiny life, and the water.

Dassies along Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

Park information says this .62 mile (1 km) loop trail will take 40 minutes and I took almost three hours with stops for views and photos, even pointing out small and not so small things along the trail to seemingly unobservant trail walkers.

 Looking back at bridges from on Suspension Bridge trail at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I don’t walk trails just to walk or mark off my list. It’s not necessarily about the destination, as the journey along the way is always filled with marvels and exclamations.

Endless wave action

Mostly I sat on the chalet balcony absorbing the ocean’s energy.  The crashing waves captivated me for hours, and 1000s of photos trying to catch the splashing waves, the light, the curl, the color.

Crashing waves at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I don’t really care to swim in the salt water, just listen and watch.

Sunrise on waves at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

I watched the sun set and rise as wind blew mist off the cresting waves.

Gulls & dassies Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

My company included seagulls and dassies, or rock hyrax.

Crashing waves at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

And the constantly crashing waves.

Sunrise over waves & dolphins at Tsitsikamma National Park Storms River Mouth South Africa

Over breakfast on the balcony I watched dolphins frolic just off shore and one sea otter made an appearance in the distance.

Sunrise at Tsitsikamma National Park Storms River Mouth South Africa

After many days of hectic travel I found myself thoroughly relaxed from the healing energy of the sea.

Services and activities

Swimming pool at Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park South Africa

SANParks offers Several options for accommodations and camping within the park.  The souvenir shop also sells some basic groceries and the restaurant has a varied and not overly expensive menu with seating indoors or out.

There are several more trails I didn’t take including the famous Otter Trail, a five day walk of 26.4 miles (42.5 km), and the Waterfall trail along the first half day of the Otter trail at 3.9 miles (6.4 km) round trip.  But I’ll be back.

27a Tsitsikamma region

Plus many other activities offered in the surrounding area and other parts of Tsitsikamma National Park.  This would make a great vacation destination and I could just hang out around this area for weeks.

Push my buttons!

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South Africa, Tsitsikamma National Park hiking, Storms River Mouth, wave watching 33 Comments
26 August 2013

Zip-line through the tree tops with Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour

After a fun filled couple of days in Port Elizabeth I headed for adventure, a zip-line through the tree tops of the indigenous Tsitsikamma rain forest.  This had been on my to-do/bucket list for a long time.  During my 2010 visit to South Africa I blew it off and I was not going to let it slip by again. [pun intended.]

Gaelyn on zip Tsitsikamma Adventures Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

Plenty of preparation

I called Tsitsikamma Canopy Tours in the morning and got a reservation for early afternoon.  Three hour tours depart every 30 minutes and are  limited to a maximum of 8 people per group.  I went with a couple from Cape Town on their honeymoon who had bungee jumped early that day.  That experience is Not on my list.

Guides Marius & Chantel Tsitsikamma Canopy tour South Africa

After meeting our guide Marius and his assistant Chantel we were handed our rigging and sat to watch a very thorough safety briefing and orientation film.

Chantel kitting up visitor Tsitsikamma Adventures Storms River South Africa

Next we were kitted up, as in expertly hooked into our gear of full body harness, pulleys and climbing equipment.  We talked about breaking, done with one extra-padded gloved hand by simply pulling down on the cable with barely any pressure.

Drive thru stumps to site Tsitsikamma Adventures Storms River South Africa

We were given a water bottle that slipped into a pocket on the harness.  And then we took a little drive in the safari-like truck through some cleared forest dodging stumps along the way.

Looking straight down from platform 2 Tsitsikamma Adventures Storms River South Africa

The first step is the hardest

Chantel & Gaelyn Tsitsikamma Adventures Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

I watched the others hesitantly slide across before me and even though I fully trusted the equipment and guides that first step off a platform set butterflies in my stomach. I overly used the brakes and slowed down to a stop about 15 feet (4.5 m) from the landing platform. It was actually nice to just be quietly siting in a perfectly safe harness hanging 98 feet (30 m) in the air while I wondered how to move.  A hand over hand exercise on the cable jerked me along and a helping hand by Chantel got me standing on the platform. Click, click, as she unhooked my safety line from one place to another disconnecting the gear so quickly and confidently.

Looking back at platform 2 Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

How much pressure for braking is a preference and takes practice.  Because each run drops a bit to the next platform it’s easy to get moving rather fast.  Almost flying like a bird through the tree tops, a zip-bird by the sound.  Soon I got the hang of it and was sliding like a pro.

Gaelyn on zip-line Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

Feeling like Tarzan’s Jane

Looking across forest from platform Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

I’ve walked through some of the Tsitsikamma forest but this provided such a totally different perspective being up off the ground.  I was glad to be the third to slide as I had more time to just gawk at the magnificent forest.  Sometimes it felt like the trees were just at my fingertips while the huge ferns below seemed miles away.

Looking at platform 3 Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

Many of the platforms are built around giant Outeniqua Yellowwood trees that are up to 700 years old.  The rigging system takes into careful consideration not to damage these ancient Yellowwoods.

Knysna dwarf chameleon Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

Didn’t really see, but did hear, many birds.  Too bad I missed the elusive Narina Trogon.  Yet this Knysna dwarf chameleon was hanging around on one of the platform trees.  Our guide shared many interesting facts about the forest ecology.

Gaelyn on walkway Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

At one point we had to walk across a narrow plank with the joking Marius rocking the board.  Funny guy.

I tried to talk Marius into trading jobs as he’s a very good naturalist and has never seen Grand Canyon.  But he wouldn’t go for it.

Last platform Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

All too soon it was over.  How could three hours slip by so fast on these 10 slides, the longest of which is 328 feet (100m).  Like a kid at Disney I wanted to run around and get in line again.

Gaelyn & Marius Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

My shoulders were stiff and sore that night but by morning felt back to their typical ache. Would I do it again, you bet.  In fact there are a couple more zip-line tours in South Africa that are now on my list for the next visit.

I paid extra for their cameraman to take photos. Unfortunately the discs were blank when I got home to finally play them, my netbook doesn’t have a player.  But Matthew and I worked it out by him dropping the images in my Dropbox.  Oh yea, and while they processed the photos we three had sandwiches for lunch included in the tour cost.

Eco-friendly

Zip-line Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour Storms River South Africa

The concept of guiding people through the upper canopy of a rainforest originated in Costa Rica where adventurous biologists devised new methods for accessing the forest canopy in order to conduct research on the undiscovered canopy ecosystem. The idea soon developed into a breathtaking form of eco-tourism which allowed people to enter and experience a previously inaccessible natural environment.

Zip-lines in South Africa

Stormsriver Adventures Tsitsikamma Canopy Tours

tsitsikamma map

The first of it’s kind in Africa.  Construction of the Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour has been done in accordance with strict civil engineering standards.  This environmentally conscious company recycles, uses natural biodegradable soaps, bio treats waste water to ensure protection of the natural resources, and plants indigenous trees.     Participating in the tour makes a significant difference to the lives of many local people without compromising the pristine environment.  As of 2003, they were the first “Fair Trade” accredited adventure company in the world.  Community projects include clothing distribution to the poor, environmental education, animal welfare,  education school feeding schemes for children, Aids awareness, education and counseling, training and development of local communities, local procurement of goods and services, development of small community based business, and assisting local crafters.

Tours are conducted in all weather conditions but can be cancelled in the interest of safety.  Ages from 7 to 70.  No pregnant ladies.  Maximum weight 264 pounds (120 kg).   Start your tour on Darnellstreet in Stormsriver Village, the town is adorable with many accommodations available.  Cost me $45US (R450) including a meal and I paid extra for their photographer.  Prices can change.

The Ceres Zip Slide Tour is located just south of Ceres.  The longest zip-line tour in South Africa offering eight slides, totaling a length of .86 miles (1.4 km).  I drove right past this one driving down Michell’s Pass on my way to stay at Rhodene Farm for the night but will return because I  loved the Skurweberg Mountains that surround the area.

Karkloff Canopy Tour is located north of Durban out of Howick.  This 2 hour adventure comprises nine platforms and eight slides through the Karkloof indigenous forest.

Magaliesberg Canopy Tour is about a 1 1/2 hour drive west of Johannesburg.  This tour of 11 platforms slides through the ecology and geology of the second oldest mountain range in the world, the Ysterhout Kloof which is estimated to be 2,400 million years old.

Magoebaskloof Canopy Tour is located northeast of Johannesburg and east out of Polokwane.  This 2 1/2 hour tour slides high above a sparkling river, waterfalls and forest floor.

Drakensberg Canopy Tour is located west of Estcourt.  This 3 hour tour is set within the Blue Grotto Forest.  I’ve hiked in the Drakensberg before and the setting is magnificent.  Too bad I missed this adventure then but now I have yet another excuse to return.

Malolotja is Swaziland’s first canopy tour located in the northwest part of the country in the Malolotja Nature Reserve.  This tour consists of 11 elevated forest platforms, 10 slides and a 164 foot (50 m) long suspension bridge that crosses the Majolomba River.

I was not paid, sponsored, compensated or reimbursed for this tour.  Maybe next time.

Push my buttons!

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14 August 2013

Entranced by the magic of Hogsback South Africa

Tucked away in the Amatola Mountains of the Eastern Cape I found the magic of Hogsback South Africa and expected to see fairies in the forests.  Seems the entire town is truly in touch with the magic of nature.

Driving to Hogsback South Africa

Joan and I sadly parted ways along the beach, her to Johannesburg for a presentation and me, presumably, to Port Elizabeth.  But then I looked at the map and got a wild hair to visit Hogsback, a place I’d heard a little about from another traveler during my previous visit to South Africa.

Plus of course I did a little online research and Hogsback is reported to be where JRR Tolkien got his ideas for Middle Earth.  Of course several places claim that fame but I figured the place must be worth checking out.

I had picked up a pile of some tourist brochures and amongst them were lists of accommodations and places to see in Hogsback. Just the name conjures images of razor-backed mountains which I knew I’d love to see and maybe hike in.  I did have a few days before meeting up with Firefly in Port Elizabeth.  By name alone out of several choices I called Never Daunted to reserve a self-catering cottage for two nights.  Turned out not to be near enough time so I’ll definitely return.

Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Africa

Never Daunted

The drive was a little rutted due to recent flooding on the road but the VW made it just fine.  Owners Josef and Elsa made me feel right at home and even helped me lug too many suite cases to my cottage.  If the doors had been round and the flower surrounded cottage on one floor I’d have felt to be in a Hobbit home.  All amenities supplied except the food I brought myself.

Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Africa

Never Daunted offers five self-catering cottages overlooking the Hogsback Mountains surrounded by flowers everywhere.  I stayed in the Samango Cottage with a Queen bed, full bath, complete kitchen minus oven, sitting room with wood stove and wood, plus TV I didn’t watch and plenty of space to set up the computer.  I actually got online with my Vodacom modem.

Samango monkey flying off roof Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Africa

The first morning I sat on the patio enjoying coffee and checking email when I heard a thumping sound on the roof.  I was totally unprepared for a Samango monkey to use the porch roof as a launching pad into the nearby trees.  Not just once.  This was like a game.  And the second time I had the camera ready.  This particular subspecies of Samango Monkey only occurs in Afromontane forests like found in Hogsback.  In fact the cheeky little buggers hang out right above the cottages dropping fruit from the trees.

View of Hogsbacks from Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Arica

Cloudy morning view of Hogsbacks from Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Africa

I never tired of the changing light on the Hogsbacks from morning to night.  But I did more than just hang out at this delightful cottage.

Three Hogsbacks Hogsback South Africa

Hogsback Arboretum

Unidentified bird Hogsback Arboretum Hogsback South Africa

Growing up in Illinois I frequently visited Morton Arboretum and even got married there.  I love to walk amongst the natural beauty of places visited, so the Hogsback Arboretum topped my list of things to do.

Fall colored Maple Hogsback Arboretum Hogsback South Africa

The arboretum isn’t huge but does offer several short trails through a garden of trees from all over the world.  I’ll admit to conflicting feelings about the non-indigenous species.  But this fall colored Maple sure did bring back memories of growing up in the US Midwest.

39 Steps Waterfall Hogsback Arboretum Hogsback South Africa

I followed Frog Crossing then Waterfall Way to see 39-steps waterfall.  And no I didn’t count the steps.  Just the names alone are delightful.

Raspberries Hogsback Arboretum Hogsback South Africa

Lower waterfall Hogsback Arboretum Hogsback South Africa

The trail along the Tyhume Stream allowed me to graze on cherry plums and raspberries.  I absorbed the magical and positive energy from the running water.

Flowers and butterflies at Hogsback Arboretum Hobsback South Africa

The brilliant flowers attracted many butterflies amongst the labeled trees.  The return trail lead me into a mini grove of five California Redwoods which seemed giantly out of place.

Looking thru the chapel door St Patricks on the Hill Hogsback South Africa

St Patricks on the Hill

Just up the road from the arboretum, beyond the poor excuse for pavement ends, I visited St Patricks on the Hill.  I’m not a religious person however do enjoy the tranquility of a place of worship that brings people together in unity filled with love.

Stone arch & chapel St Patricks on the Hill Hogsback South Africa

Kenneth Hobart Houghton built the first chapel in 1935 as a private place to worship. The original design included only one rondavel but after its donation to the Anglican Church the local congregation grew and it became necessary to extend it. The second rondavel, which gives it a butternut shape, was added in 1992.  Sadly, in June 2010, fire destroyed almost the entire building yet the rebuilt Chapel was completed in a year.

Prayer Walk arch St Patricks on the Hill Hogsback South Africa

The caretakers continuously work to improve the Prayer Trail planting brilliantly colored flowers and laying down more stone to increase the path.  I wish I’d been there for the Rhododendrons in bloom.  The trail provides a spectacular view into the valley below.

View from The Bluff Scenic Walk Hogsback South Africa

Bluff Scenic Walk

However,  I saw the best far reaching views during my quiet morning stroll along the Bluff Scenic Walk located by The Edge Mountain Retreat where I later had a delicious breakfast.

Labyrinth The Edge Mountain Retreat Hogsback South Africa

And I walked the Labyrinth, reported to be the largest of its kind in South Africa.  Plus I dropped in to the nearby Dreamery Store full of local hand-crafted products and couldn’t resist buying the cutest little dress and a braided leather ankle bracelet.

Village map Hogsback South Africa

Hogsback

Hogsback offers a wide variety of accommodation, ranging from full-service hotels to guest houses, self-catering cottages, Bed & Breakfast, backpacking, camping and caravaning.

The lady at the Information Center provided a lot of recommendations for even more to do than I had time for.  Plus friendly locals at the Happy Hogs Pub and Restaurant also made suggestions.  There’s a tower I didn’t get to and a waterfall hike that sounded like more climbing than I was interested in.  In fact a local map shows many trails into the forests and mountains.  I also missed the Ecology Shrine, guided bird walks and horseback riding.

Sunrise view of Hogsbacks from Never Daunted Self-catering Cottage Hogsback South Africa

As AJT Cook wrote in a tourist brochure, “There is a magic about Hogsback which cannot be reduced to cold print; but which steals away the hearts of those who visit it so that they come back year after year to recapture their first love.”

Well I tried to capture the magic of Hogsback South Africa in photos and memories.  And although not my first love, though close, I do have the desire to return for further explorations.

Ceramic warthog from Hogsback South Africa

Oh, and don’t be fooled into buying the unfired ceramic warthogs that the hawkers on the streets try to sell as they will turn into dust.  I did however buy a fired one at the Information Center.  Yea, I know, it’s cracked.  But then so am I.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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