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Settling into Stellenbosch South Africa

Settling into Stellenbosch, a historic town you can shop and get drunk in.

Really, I liked Stellenbosch and didn’t get drunk there.  I’m just finding it difficult to write about the last chapter of my visit to South Africa.  Makes it seem so final, even though I’m currently planning for the next visit.

Table Mountain R27 South South Africa

Table Mountain

When I left West Coast National Park I headed south towards Cape Town, but not to Cape Town.  (I’m really not a city gal so still haven’t explored this place at all.)  Because I was headed to the Getaway Travel and Outdoor Show in Summerset West I opted to reserve a room for two nights at the Alvera Guest House in nearby Stellenbosch.  Then figured I might head to Cape Town before flying out to Johannesburg.  But instead I stayed three more nights.  Yes, I’d heard of famous wines, the historic Dutch architecture and a renowned botanical garden but that hadn’t been on my list until I got there.  Unfortunately, with driving alone I didn’t get a chance to sample the local wines.

The first night I stayed in a single room with use of the huge kitchen and common area.  One other bedroom was occupied by a man I never saw.  The next morning I left for the Getaway Show and while gone the owners moved all my goods to a new self-catered room.

  Cape Getaway Show Stellenbosch South Africa

Getaway Travel & Outdoor Show

If you’re into camping and being outdoors, and it seems as most are in South Africa, then the Getaway Show is the place to go.  Hosted by Lourensford Winery the venue is surrounded by hillsides dotted with vineyards.  Exhibitors filled two huge tents and a monster-sized lawn with representatives from travel publications, resorts, lodges, tours, safaris, camp gear, and outdoor ware where I bought two pairs of cargo shorts.  Plus tents and trailers of every configuration and the vehicle to haul it all whether you prefer to stay in a caravan park or out in the bush.

Gaelyn by Toyota Landcruiser Getaway Show Somerset West South Africa

I found my dream machine if anybody would like to donate about 100K.  Plus I met numerous people involved in outdoor travel of many sorts and came away with a list of even more places to visit in South Africa and beyond.

 Cape Getaway Show Stellenbosch South Africa

There were also plenty of kids’ activities including a water slide and climbing wall.  Plus several food options, music, wine tasting and a beer garden.

Wine cellar Cape Getaway Show Laurenceford Winery Somerset West South Africa

I returned to the show early Sunday for a photo workshop offered by Getaway and taught by one of their photo journalists Dylan Kotze.  Not only did I learn a few new things and finally set in mind even more, but I met some local photographers that I continue to be friends with and hope to see again when I return.  During lunch and after the workshop I wandered back around the show again making some final connections and networking for the future.

Theological Seminary Stellenbosch South Africa

Theological Seminary

Historic Stellenbosch

Having a comfortable place to hang, that’s just what I did instead of packing one more time and moving to Cape Town.  I will get around to exploring there someday.  Tried to get a reservation for the Robbins Island tour but it was booked.  So I explored historic Stellenbosch.

Moederkerk church Stellenbosch South Africa

Moederkerk (Mother Church)

Known as ‘the town of oaks’ that were planted by founder Simon van der Stel in the 17th century this historic Dutch agricultural community welcomed French refugees who planted grapes in the fertile valleys around Stellenbosch.  Due to various fires most of the current buildings date from the 19th century.  A map is available for a walking tour of the historic district.

Art in Stellenbosch South Africa

The architecture is intriguing and this town is made for shopping and eating.  I succumbed to both.  Being the end of my journey I knew if I could splurge a little.  This talented wood carver did his best to sell me something, two egg-sized carvings was all I could carry.  And even then between all the previous purchases and some Stellenbosch treats I ended up buying an extra bag to be checked for my return flight.  I’ll look into shipping for the future.

Stellenbosch Botanical Garden South Africa

Stellenbosch Botanical Gardens

My last full day in country I returned to town for a wee bit more shopping but really to walk in the Stellenbosch University Botanical Garden which is free.

Bonsai House Stellenbosch Botanical Garden South Africa

Though not large, it is the oldest of its kind in South Africa dating back to 1922 and houses an enormous diversity of plants, both indigenous and introduced species.  Stellenbosch has a Mediterranean like climate with dry warm summers and cool rainy winters ideal for this diverse collection of nearly 300 bonsai trees, succulents, ferns, orchids and more.

Botanical Garden Stellenbosch South Africa

I was entranced by the bonsai, some more than 60 years old yet no more than two feet tall.  Especially when compared to ferns towering over my head.  So tranquil, not crowded, and easy to find a little sanctuary.  I enjoyed a delicious lunch in the shade of a giant gum tree at the Katjiepiering Restaurant and chatted with a young woman who is a student at the local university.

Vineyards & mts Stellenbosch South Africa

Wineries

I drove up a hillside into the vineyards just to enjoy the views and wasn’t disappointed.  I know nothing about wine except tipping the glass.  Oh, and I guess you’re suppose to sniff, sip and hold before swallowing.  I’d be willing to learn if I didn’t have to drive afterwards.  Stellenbosch is home to 140 wine farms so there’s ample possibilities.

Packing at Alvera Guest House Room 4 Stellenbosch South Africa

Alvera Guest House

Hosts Vera and Jurgen Bolz operate a homey like environment in a residential neighborhood conveniently located to the historic district, main roads and services.  After five nights I felt like family.  Good thing as I sure made a mess of my room getting ready to leave.

And it was hard to leave.  I could have moved in on a more permanent basis here and every other place I stayed and visited while touring for two months in South Africa.  And so I am called back, to a country currently in mourning over the passing of Nelson Mandela yet standing strong after only 20 years since the change to freedom and Democracy.

A few more photos taken while exploring Stellenbosch.

Dutch architecture Stellenbosch South Africa

Dutch architecture and the sweetest little bookstore

diamond cutter Stellenbosch South Africa

Diamond cutter at work

Serenade at thai cafe Stellenbosch South Africa

Serenade at lunch

Grapes on the vine Stellenbosch South Africa

I always figure I get to enjoy a trip four times: when I plan it, while I actually travel, labeling the photos, and sharing the stories. Of course all that brings the memories back again in the future.

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Beaches and birds at West Coast National Park South Africa

Saldanha Bay West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa
Saldanha Bay West Coast National Park

You can enjoy endless miles of beaches plus wetlands and over 200 species of birds at West Coast National Park by hiking or driving the 20+ miles of paved road.  I always deny being a birder and even though I don’t chase them or look for any specific species I do enjoy watching.

I stayed with a delightful woman from Germany I met at Warmwaterberg Spa.  She has a South African summer home in Langebaan.  This was a convenience to also visit the West Coast Fossil Park.

My Wild Card got me into the park for free. At the entrance gate the person was surprised when I asked for a park map/brochure because so many locals visit and already have it.  I drove in only part way the first day then returned a second day to see the rest.

West Coast NP aerial view by Scott Ramsay
Aerial view of Langebaan Lagoon by Scott Ramsay

West Coast National Park

West Coast National Park was established in 1985 and comprises 79,000 acres (32,000 hectares) surrounding the clear waters of the Langebaan Lagoon.  The lagoon itself is divided into 3 recreational zones with different activities and facilities in each; Zone A: multi-functional section for most water sports at the mouth of the bay; Zone B: reserved for sailboats and board sailing, no power boats or angling; and Zone C: wilderness area, which is closed to the public.

The key conservation areas of the park include the lagoon and the offshore islands in Saldanha Bay.  The saltmarshes of Langebaan are unique in that no river feeds into the lagoon.  The five islands of Saldanha Bay to the north of the Lagoon provide a home for nearly a quarter of a million sea birds, many of which are endemic to the nearshore regions of South Africa and Namibia.

Activities

Besides beaches and birding West Coast National Park offers many other activities which I unfortunately didn’t have time for.  Oh boy, an excuse to go back.

Flamingos along Saldanha Bay West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa
Flamingos from Seeberg hide

Birding
I visited two of the four bird hides and saw an incredible number of species.  Bonus that identification photos are hung in the hides so I could figure out what I was looking at.

Bird collage West Coast National Park South Africa
Whitebacked duck, ostriches, red-knobbed coot and Cape shovelers (clockwise)

Birding is a serious business to many.  It is important to be respectful and quiet when approaching, visiting and leaving a bird hide or it defeats the purpose of hiding.  Other birders in the hide had field guides and Big lenses mounted on tripods.  I’m an amateur and birds are flighty and challenging to photography.  (I need lessons from my birder friends  Chris and Kathie.)

Angulate turtle by turn arrow West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa

Wildlife
What I saw the most of was Angulate turtles. They have right away and you have to really watch out for them because they cross the roads regularly, and slowly.  Eland, red hartebeest, Cape grysbok, caracal and rock hyrax are some of the terrestrial species to search for.  And watch for whales in August and September from the Tsaarsbank section of the park.

Candelabra plant West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa
Candelabra  flower

Flower season
West Coast National Park boasts a popular and colorful flower season annually between August and September depending on the amount of rainfall in the preceding winter months.  I missed this but there were still a few things in bloom.

Gelbek Visitors Center West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa

Geelbek Information Center
This Cape Dutch building is a National Monument and has been renovated three times since it was first built in 1744.  The well laid out information center displays information about the flora and fauna of the park.  Plus a replica of Eve’s footprints, discovered in 1995 at Kraalbaai, are unmistakable human footfalls in rock (formerly sea sand) and are said to have belonged to a young woman who lived 117 000 years ago.  The original prints are housed at the Iziko Museums’ South African National Museum in Cape Town.  Trails to two birdhides start at the visitor center.

Weavers on fountain Gelbek restaurant West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa

There is also an award winning restaurant that serves traditional food and only regional wines with indoor or outside dinning and a bar.  Although I didn’t eat there I paused long enough to watch these Weavers playing in the fountain in between begging from the outdoor dinners.

Seeberg view point West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa

Hiking
Unfortunately my hiking time was limited although I did walk out to the Seeberg View Point which provided a huge view of Langebaan Lagoon.  There is a seemingly abandoned yet freshly painted one room building sitting on top of this huge outcrop.  I’d be totally ready to live there as a volunteer with the addition of a compost toilet.
Inside building at Seeberg view point West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa

Eve’s Trail is a 2.5 day, fully portered and catered hike through the park, tracing the footsteps of Eve. The trail is an 18.5 mile (30 km) wilderness hike consisting of three legs connected through a series of West Coast-style meals and transfers.

Beginning at the Geelbek Information Centre there is a 5.5 mile (9 km) circular walk to the dunes and back and a 4.3 mile (7 km) circular walk that includes part of the 16 mile beach.

View from Seeberg view point West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa
View from Seeberg

Bakoor Trail from the Langebaan gate to the Seeberg View Point is 2.8 miles (4.6 km) long.  Along this route bat eared foxes, Ostriches, Eland and many other animals can be spotted, as well as the beautiful view of the Langebaan lagoon.

Sand dunes along the Atlantic Ocean West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa

The Strandveld Trail is a two-day hike, 8.6 miles (14 km) each day through endangered beach scrub and along the beach beginning and ending at the Geelbek Information Centre.

Only during the August and September flower season the two-day Postberg Trail and one-day Steenbok Trail require pre-booking that opens in June.
Cycling and mountain biking routes
I’d rather walk but there are cycling options on the roads for an 18.6 mile (30 km) ride from the Langebaan gate to Geelbek and back, or a 43 mile (70 km) ride from the Langebaan gate to Kraalbaai and back.

Plus you can mountain bike the 8 mile (13 km) Green Trail which starts at the Langebaan gate and traverses up to the Seeberg Bird Hide before heading back to the gate.  And also the 10.5 mile (17 km) Red Trail which uses a similar route to the Green route, but heads up instead to the Seeberg Lookout and thereafter to Mooimaak before heading back to the Langebaan gate.

Langebaan Lagoon West Coast National Park South Africa

Picnic and braai (BBQ)
Nice facilities are offered at both Kraalbaai’s beach on the lagoon or Tsaarsbank section along the Atlantic.

Kiteboarding Langebaan South Africa

Kite-board
Just outside the park proper I watched people kite-boarding in the Langebaan Lagoon.  Sure looked like fun but don’t think my arthritic shoulders could handle this.

People and Conservation

National Parks are so much more than awesome wildlife and scenery.  The preservation of biodiversity includes people.

Seeberg bird hide along Saldanha Bay West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa
Seeberg bird hide

South African National Parks (SANParks) is mandated “to oversee the conservation of South Africa’s biodiversity, landscapes and associated heritage assets through a system of national parks.”  This also includes a mission to build constituencies among people and conservation through effective relations in communities near national parks, youth outreach and environmental education.

Red Hartebeest scat West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa

I met two Honorary Rangers waiting for a field trip of kids that were hiking towards them to learn about the birds seen at Seeberg hide plus take advantage of an interpretive moment and show them the scattering of red-hartebeest dung/scat/poop and the characteristic scratch mark next to it.

Accommodations

Other than overnight hiking by permit there are no other camping options in the park and limited near Langebaan where it might be uncomfortable camped on a windy beach.  However, West Coast National Park offers a few accommodation facilities within the park.  The Abrahamskraal Cottage near a bird hide and Jo-Annes beach Cottage within walking distance to the west side of the lagoon can be reserved through SANParks.

Boats in Langebaan Lagoon West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa

I saw several boats anchored near the Kraalbaai picnic area and later learned two privately owned and permanently moored houseboats are available for overnight reservations.  That would be a unique experience.

Nearby in Langebaan many overnight accommodations are available ranging from beach houses, B&B and hotels.

Rocky shores & waves West Coast National Park Langebaan South Africa

My favorite part of West Coast National Park was truly the west coast, right on the Atlantic Ocean.  I hung out watching the waves, exploring tide pools, walking the beach, and, yes, watching birds.

Getting There

Only 1.5 hours north of Cape Town on the R27, West Coast National Park provides plenty of beaches and birds plus a whole lot more.

West Coast National Park map

This post is linked to a Blog Hop about the “Top Stories of 2013” by our Baby Boomer Travel Writers Facebook group and hosted by Travel writer Liz.  Hop on over for some great travel ideas.

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