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Category: Mpumalanga

06 May 2013

A week of wildlife in Kruger National Park South Africa

Joan and I arrived at Crocodile Bridge Gate into Kruger National Park in the dark, after the gate was closed.  So we spent the night sleeping in the back of the pickup truck, known as a bakkie, right outside the gate putting us first in line to enter in the morning.

Lions Kruger NP SA

First animals barely seen due to the tall grasses were a pair of lions.  This got my heart to pumping and brought back memories of my last visit seeing lions.  What an exciting welcome to the park.

River crossing Kruger NP SA

Heavy January rains not only increased vegetative growth but caused for severe flooding in northern parts of the park.  Some roads and rest camps were closed yet many roads were still open for wildlife viewing.

Elephant Kruger NP SA

Snail Kruger NP SA

We camped six nights and saw quite a few animals during the days, both big and small.

Sunrise Kruger NP SA

Camp at Lower Sabie Kruger NP SA

A typical day included getting up very early—for me.  Joan’s up about 4:30am and out of the bakkie making coffee so when I crawled out of the tent about 5 my cup of java was ready.  She really spoiled me and knew how to get me motivated at the crack of dawn.

Burchells Zebras Kruger NP SA

Buffalo Kruger NP SA

Camp gates open at 5:30am during February when I was there and close at 6:30pm.  Times change in relation to sunrise and set.  Fines can be levied for returning late.  Rest camps are enclosed by high electrified fences for visitor protection.  It was exciting to hear the lions after dark and feel safe in my tent.

Vervet monkey on tent Berg-en-Dal camp Kruger NP SA

This unfortunately doesn’t stop the monkeys and baboons from getting into camp with the potential for problems.  Like camping anywhere, it is wise not to leave food laying about or in your tent.

We would often be first out the gate and drive around on the extensive road system at least five hours.  Many of the roads are gravel and a few main roads are paved.  It’s always a slow drive with eyes looking in all directions in the hope of seeing as much wildlife as possible.

Giraffes Kruger NP SA

And sometimes they would be easier than others.

Crocodiles on sandbank Kruger NP SA

During the heat of the day we’d return to camp and often go swimming to cool off, but not with the crocodiles.  Most of the main Rest Camps offer a restaurant, food and souvenir shops, and a swimming pool.  The ablutions, or restrooms, have toilets, showers and often bathtubs.  Plus the communal kitchen area has sinks, stove top, on-demand hot water and sometimes a refrigerator and freezer.  And almost all campsites have power.  We could even get WIFI with Joan’s modem.

Hippopotamus yawning Kruger NP SA

Spotted Hyenas Kruger NP SA

Later in the afternoon we’d head back out and drive more hours looking for wildlife.  I was never disappointed.  We watched these young hyenas for a while.  They were curious about us but wouldn’t come too close and eventually hid in the tall grass and watched us watching them.

Ostrich Kruger NP SA

We saw so many different birds I’ll have to devote an entire post to them.  So this is just a teaser.  I was reminded of riding an ostrich, but not in Kruger, on my last visit to South Africa.  They’re fast runners at 43 mph (70 kph).  The female is the lighter color.

flowers Kruger NP SA

Clockwise: Tree Wisteria, Mimosa, Blue Commelina, Unidentified, Wild cotton, Roadside Pimpernell, Unidentified

Yet visiting a wildlife park is about more than animals.  The plant life is spectacularly diverse and beautiful.

Leopard Kruger NP SA

Most important when driving around in Kruger National Park is you DO NOT get out of your vehicle.  There be predators.

Lion Kruger NP SA

One of the last animals we saw before leaving the park.  She appeared to be guarding a den in the rocks.

Steenbok Kruger NP SA

Or maybe waiting for her pride to return with a meal of something like this little Steenbok.  All part of survival in the bush.

Black-backed Jackal Kruger NP SA

One week at Kruger National Park provides time to see a lot of wildlife yet I could enjoy staying longer.  I will be back.

Impala Kruger NP SA

Have you been on safari before?  What was your favorite animal?

Baboons Kruger NP SA

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Kruger National Park, South Africa camping, Kruger National Park, photography, South Africa, wildlife 42 Comments
17 April 2013

Frog invasion at Kruger National Park

I’m pretty sure you didn’t expect me to write about a frog invasion at Kruger National Park.  And they may be toads, but are all from the same animal group.

Leopard Kruger NP SA

Oops, that’s a leopard not a frog

Most people think of safari and The Big 5 at the largest wildlife park in South Africa.  But there’s plenty of small and seemingly unusual activities as well.

Frogs on road at Kruger NP SA

While cruising the roads in search of wildlife, scanning the bush to both sides, high and low, searching for movement, an out of place color, something unusual.  Then up ahead something small moving on the road, many somethings in fact.  Two inch frogs heading our way and taking up both lanes.

Frog on road Kruger NP SA

No ID, yet

Difference between frogs & toads

Frogs need to live near water, have smooth moist skin, a narrow body and high round bulgy eyes.  Toads do not need to live near water, have rough and bumpy skin, a wide body and low football shaped eyes.  So you tell me what we saw.

Two frogs fighting over food Kruger NP SA

A pair of frogs where fighting over some morsel and neither would give way

We stopped and didn’t want to drive through knowing we couldn’t avoid smashing some of them into the road. What a dilemma. It was obvious some other vehicles had driven through because of the mashed frog bodies. Did they even see them?

Red toad Kruger NP SA

Although I thoroughly enjoy seeing the big wildlife sometimes the small animals provide something different and unusual.  Like this prince, a red toad, found under my tent.  And no I didn’t kiss it.

Last visit we were attacked by turtles and this time a frog invasion.  I’m just glad we weren’t harried by hippos.

More coming about other wildlife seen in South Africa.

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Kruger National Park, South Africa frogs, Kruger National Park, South Africa, toads 22 Comments
20 January 2013

Kruger National Park–living in the wild

The “Bug Lady” introduced me to South Africa. In fact after a couple of years reading this amazing lady’s blog I journeyed to her country. For two weeks she shared her passion and knowledge as we toured Blyde River Canyon, Kruger National Park, a beach in Durban, the Drakensberg Mountains and more. When I return in February we will travel together again and I have asked her to introduce you to Kruger National Park in this guest post.

Joan worked as a tour guide in Kruger National Park for 17 years followed by five years at a lodge and gained a sense of place along with extensive knowledge about the life of this unique landscape. She is currently researching the biodiversity of species, specifically insects, to add to what is known of these beautiful small creatures. And thus, the “Bug Lady.”

Kruger National Park by Joan Young

Birth of the park

In the 1890s, the then President of South Africa, Paul Kruger, decided to set aside a piece of land for a nature reserve which would always be kept in its pristine bushveld form. The area around what is now Pretorius Kop was chosen and the original circular road which was established is still in use today, more than a hundred years later. When it rained in summer, the road could not be used as the cars at the time got bogged down in the mud, not to mention the mosquito’s which ate you alive, so it was much more popular in the winter months. The nearby river had to have a pontoon installed in order to cross it. In 1926 the area was finally declared a Nature Reserve and all wildlife in it found sanctuary from hunters. At that time, part of it was on the main route to Delagoa Bay in Mozambique, the main and nearest shipping point for the coal and diamond mines in the Transvaal and the story of the dog Jock of the Bushveld was about this route.

First accommodations Kruger National Park South Africa
First accommodations

When Eileen Orpen’s husband died, she donated all her land to be included into the park and slowly but surely, with additional land bought and donated, it grew to its present size of just over 20,000 square miles. Today, bordering Game Reserves of Timbivati and Sabi Sands have all dropped their fences so the animals have a larger area in which to roam.

White backed Vulture
White backed Vulture

Park Improvements

It was not until the 1950s that some semblance of today’s Park was formed with brick buildings, passable roads, shops and fuel stops. At one time there were no cell phone or internet signals and some camps had no electricity and you had to use gas lamps.

Chalet and campground Kruger National Park South Africa
Chalet and campground

Now there is every convenience you could wish for including air-conditioning, proper restaurants and shops from which you can buy almost everything you need in case you forgot to pack it. There are many kinds of accommodation to suite every pocket. There are guest houses which accommodate a whole family of up to about 8 people and have a dining room, lounge, bathrooms etc. The chalets (2-3 people) each have a kitchen area with a small fridge, cutlery, crockery, and its own bathroom consisting of a shower, basin and toilet. The tented camps have the same except they have a communal bathroom and then there are camping areas where both the kitchen and bathroom facilities are communal. Each type of accommodation has a BBQ area.

White Rhino Kruger National Park South Africa
White Rhino

Problems with poaching

Over the years there have been many changes to the Park, not all of them good. A few years ago it was decided to open the Park into a trans-frontier encompassing neighboring countries of Mozambique and Zimbabwe and since then, rhino poaching has increased every year. In the first 10 days of 2013, we already lost 3, last year over 400.

Common Flat Lizard (Platysaurus intermedius)
Common Flat Lizard

Attractions

Still, Kruger National Park is world renown and a much visited game reserve where the animals still roam wild and free. There are hundreds of birds, trees, animals, reptiles and flowers which are endemic to the area and after the first spring rain, a truly magnificent sight to see and well worth a visit or two or three. Once hooked on the diversity and beauty, you will keep on coming back – Gaelyn is a good example.

Young Lion Kruger National Park South Africa
Young Lion

Some of the main attractions are of course what we call the Big 5 – rhino, elephant, lion, leopard and buffalo. They are not necessarily the biggest animals but got their name from being the most difficult to hunt. On average, you should see at least 20-30 species of animals and about 30-40 species of birds per day. Then there are the smaller things such as chameleons, tortoise, lizards etc. and don’t forget about my bugs. LOL!! For an idea of what an average trip here should be like, please read my 10 part series called Home away from Home.

Pirate (Catacroptera cloanthe)
Pirate

Joan writes: “I love the bush even though at times it is not an easy life to live. Sometimes I am in places where there is no power or bathroom facilities and definitely no shops nearby so I live on hard tack and dig a hole to do what I have to do. 🙂 The heat and cold can be extreme but this is the life I want to live and I hope I can continue to live it for many more years.”

To learn more about the life Joan studies out in the bushveld please check out her SAPhotographs blog.  You won’t be disappointed.

South African sunset

What would be your favorite animal to see while on safari in South Africa?

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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