So I left you, and me, in the middle of the Virgin River headed to The Narrows at Zion National Park. The river has a fast current with algae-coated rocks described by the Park Service “like walking on slippery bowling balls.” And they’re
not kidding.
I carefully placed one foot then tested for solidness, next moved my trekking pole forward and planted it securely, followed by a repeat for the second foot and then moved the pole again.
The weather and water levels are monitored by the Park Service and posted at the visitor center and the trail head.
I found out later the air temperature was 103° F.
Yet the twisting and turning river is mostly in shadow and the water is cold. It’s absolutely amazing to walk in the shadows of soaring walls of sandstone stained by minerals and running water from natural springs. Plants simply sprout out of the rock walls, swaying slightly in the breeze as they dance to the river’s melody. The Virgin River has carved a spectacular gorge in The Narrows up to 2000 feet deep and at times only 20-30 feet wide. Orderville Canyon is a tributary that was flowing very shallow and can be as narrow as 10-15 feet. You need a backcountry permit to go up any farther plus another person, and maybe even rope, to help with some waterfall climbs or log jams. At this point I stopped for lunch then headed back down stream. Took me about 2.5 hours each way, that’s my usual 1mph with water and food stops and I didn’t fall down or mash any toes. But I did take hundreds of pictures. I forgot to earn my Jr. Ranger badge so will have to go back. However I added a new pin to my collection.
View west between campground and Visitor Center From the South campground where I stayed it’s an easy walk to the Zion National Park Visitor Center to pick up a shuttle to the Temple of Sinawava at the end of the Zion Canyon road where I’ll start the Virgin River Walk before wading in to The Narrows. Zion NP Visitor Center
I talked to Rangers about flow conditions and whether any had worn their work boots in the river. Was told the inner soles wrinkle so opted for my Tevas and using extreme caution not to mash any exposed toes or twist an unsupported ankle. Relief map of Zion Canyon * my 2.5 mile hike*
The park won’t allow hikers into The Narrows when the flow is more than 120 cubic feet per second (cfs). Flash flood can kill in canyons. That day the flow was 42 cfs. There is such biological diversity here in extremes of desert and river side. Trail up to Angels Landing The Great White Throne
The shuttle ride up canyon is magnificent with big windows and skylights. So nice to oogle the scenery instead of watching the road. The first mile of the Riverside Walk is paved, and accessible with a little push. The Virgin River flows to one side and sandstone cliffs tower over the other. Hanging gardens dangle from the moisture on the rock. After a snack on the beach I waded into the chilly water and followed others who gingerly began a walk in the river into The Narrows. Some were obviously not prepared for this slippery walk. Many serious river walkers had rented special water shoes with ankle support in the nearby town of Springdale. Next time I’ll make that investment which included a walking stick, although I prefer my trekking pole. 60 percent of the hike to The Narrows is in the river with crossings from one sand/stone bar to another. The deepest 10 foot section was waist deep for me but mostly the water was only from ankles to mid thighs. This Cardinal Flower or Scarlet Lobelia along the river bank…
Swallowtail Butterfly
…attracted more than just my attention. Hummingbird …and was chased off by a more determined nectar eater. The journey up river continues to The Narrows.
I entered Zion National Park from the East entrance at 5700 feet (1737.36 meters). In 1864 Mormon pioneer Isacc Behunin homesteaded in the canyon and called it Zion, a Hebrew word interpreted as a sanctuary. Zion was designated a national monument in 1909 and is celebrating its centennial. Checkerboard Mesa
Within a mile I stopped at the first of many overlooks. The horizontal lines are caused by crossbedding, a remnant of ancient sand dunes. The vertical lines formed because of the contraction and expansion of the sandstone. This Navajo sandstone reaches a thickness of 2200 feet (670.56 meters) and forms the spectacular cliffs in Zion. I only wish there’d been more places to pull off the road.
First tunnel The Zion Tunnels were completed in 1930, the longer 1.1 miles (1.77 km) in length with six windows. I fit through the first one with no problem. But… …the second tunnel cost me $15 to stop traffic and drive straddling the double yellow lines because my camper is over 7’9” (2.36 meters) wide. I wasn’t the only one. And it was rather fun to be in the lead. The road drops 600 feet (182.88 meters) into Zion Canyon. I found a place to camp at the South Campground with no problem. In fact it seemed pretty quiet in the park. Took the shuttle up to the Lodge and treated myself to a delicious dinner. Have you ever eaten Quinua (keen-wah)? It’s a grain-like seed from the goosefoot (Chenopodium quinoa). It came with my Navajo Eggplant. Very yummy. The West Temple and Towers of the Virgin After a good night’s rest I rode the shuttle up canyon to walk the Virgin Riverside walk and beyond into The Narrows.