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Category: Utah

20 July 2015

Canyon scramble to search for rock art

Map showing canyon hiked Kanab UtahIt’s a small and beautiful side canyon off Angel Canyon where Kanab Creek flows.  There’s really not an established trail so required a canyon scramble to search for rock art.

Canyon hiked Kanab UtahBill parked on a two track off the highway and suggested we scramble down a sandy bank through dense vegetation, cross the creek and back up on the other side.  Not wanting to walk in sand with wet shoes that didn’t look real appealing to me so the other option was to walk across a bridge on the highway and trail blaze, which is what we did.  Actually we followed a semi-trail that could have been made by animals and used by people too.  We still had to cross a dry wash that feeds into the creek to get to the sandstone cliffs where the suspected rock art might be.  Looking across I thought I saw some possible scratching on a patina surface which turned out to be natural.

Canyon hiked Kanab UtahMany options for kind of trails down appeared and we finally chose one that looked the least steep then slid down the sand to the bottom about 80 feet and walked up the wash looking for the best place to get back up on the other side.  Bill was post-holing in the sand on the way up and I tried to follow his steps but his stride is longer than mine, yet I’m lighter and didn’t sink in as far.  Once on the bench we worked our way to the cliff face and began to look for rock art walking up canyon.

Toadstools in canyon Kanab UtahThe sandstone formations are so breathtaking it really didn’t matter if we found anything.

Shelter in canyon hiked Kanab UtahThere is a fire ring with log seats around it and then we saw this old structure which is accessed through a crack in the rock.  With a tin roof over timbers and a sweet little oil-can stove it looked pretty habitable to me.  Hard to say when the last time it was actually used but there was some rather modern trash around.

Indigenous, historic & contemporary rock art Kanab UtahWe continued ahead just a bit to the head of the canyon where we finally found the rock art, indigenous, historic and contemporary.  Once again, people add their story to the same area of rock, plus a few bullet holes.  Looked like sand deposits had buried some of the petroglyphs.

Sawed out rock in canyon hiked Kanab UtahThis sawed out piece of rock was a curiosity.  Wonder if someone cut out a petroglyph.

Circular spalled rock in canyon hiked Kanab UtahOf course the natural “rock art” is just as spectacular as the human if not more so.

Looking down canyon hiked Kanab UtahWe followed the cliff face back down the canyon admiring the views.  The truck was parked almost at the foot of the farthest bluff in the center of the above photo.

Princes Plume & Sacred Datura in canyon hiked Kanab UtahPrinces Plume was everywhere with some sacred datura thrown into the mix.

Looking up canyon hiked Kanab UtahWe went back down, crossed the wash and climbed back up again.  By now, both a little tired so had to stop a couple times along the way but we made it out to explore more the next day in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.  But those stories are for another post.

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Kanab, Utah petroglyphs, rock art 21 Comments
07 July 2015

Stories in stone: Rock Art by nature and humans

Stories in stone have been left by nature and what humans call “rock art” for many thousands of years.  Is it communication, graffiti, art or vandalism?

Iron staining on Navajo sandstone Kanab UtahTwice in the last two months I’ve come across the idea of what is commonly known as “rock art” not being art at all, but stories.  Charley, from the Pauite tribe, said his people have art but the work on the rock is story.  Archaeologist Doug McFadden agrees.  I love stories, to read, share, interpret and learn from.  Long before European Americans settled in Kanab, Utah indigenous people lived along Kanab Creek.  Yet even before that, millions of years ago nature created rock art of her own.

Last week, Bill showed me some local rock art that included geologic, indigenous, historic (older than 50 years) and contemporary stories in stone.

Navajo sandstone bluff Kanab UtahGeologic Story

Grand Staircase stratificationI have long admired the colorful cliffs of Navajo sandstone spread around southern Nevada, northern Arizona, northwest Colorado and Utah.  Several national parks and monuments like Zion, Capital Reef, Glen Canyon, Vermilion Cliffs, and Canyonlands include erosional features of Navajo sandstone.

Early Jurassic 195 mya paleogeographic map North America
Early Jurassic 195 mya
Late Jurassic 150 mya paleogeographic map North America
Late Jurassic 150 mya

 

Beginning as sand dunes about 190 million years ago in an arid sand sea or erg, the Arabic word meaning dune field, on the Western portion of the Supercontinent Pangaea.  In its current state, it covers 102,300 square miles. During the Jurassic, it might have been two and a half times larger.  The story of ancient life has been left behind in the form of dinosaur tracks and stromatolite fossils. Navajo sandstone bluff Kanab UtahChanging directions of ancient winds can be read in the layered bedding planes once erosion reveals the story of a different climate and landscape than seen today.

Navajo sandstone bluff Kanab UtahVertical cliffs of up to 2,200 feet (670 m) often topped by massive domes of white are capped by the 160 million year old Carmel Formation made up of alternate layers of reddish-brown siltstone, whitish-gray gypsum and limestone that continue the geologic story.

Iron staining on Navajo sandstone Kanab UtahThen add black, brown, crimson, vermillion, orange, salmon, peach, pink, gold, and yellow colors.  Depending on the properties of the sandstone, iron oxides like hematite, goethite and limonite precipitate within spaces between quartz grains leaving colorful bands and painted patinas.

Native petroglyphs Kanab UtahIndigenous Story

Sometimes the patina also makes a nice palette for petroglyphs created by chipping away the outer dark later to reveal the light colored rock beneath.  The amount of patina staining an existing petroglyph and the style can help establish how long ago the story was told.  The Kaibab Paiute established themselves in the area for the last 1000 years.  Prior to that the landscape was occupied by Ancient Puebloan, or Anasazi people.

Possible petroglyphs Kanab Utah

Possible petroglyphs Kanab UtahI am fascinated by the First People’s stories in stone even if my interpretation is different than the authors.  Sometimes figures seem obvious and other markings are difficult to read or impossible to tell if they are truly very old.

Native petroglyphs Kanab Utah

Native petroglyphs Kanab UtahAnd sometimes the patina has covered the ancient petroglyphs making them barely discernible.

Possible small granary Kanab UtahWe saw what might be a Native ruin, if it’s very old probably the remains of a granary or food storage area.

Historic Story

A little more modern markings on rock are still considered historic if over 50 years old from present.  These tend to be names and dates in proclamation of “Kilroy was here.”

Historic & modern petroglyphs Kanab UtahEarly pioneers passed by this area in the 1850s and eventually 10 Mormon families founded the town of Kanab, Utah in 1870.  They too left a story on the sandstone pallet which requires more research than I chose to delve into.

Historic petroglyph advertising Kanab UtahNot sure how I feel about advertising on the rocks from around the turn of the 20th century.  Is it graffiti or vandalism?  Whichever, it is now considered part of history.

Contemporary rock art Kanab UtahContemporary Story

It seems people are attracted to adding their own story to rock where there is already markings, sometimes obliterating the early “rock art” or as a nearby addition.  I see absolutely no excuse for modern vandalism.   Yet Associate Professor in the School of Communication at Northern Arizona University in Flagstaff Richard Rogers argues that these repeated additions in the same place could be a form of communication across time and cultures.  Wonder if that’s like the interaction on social media, stories with no stones.

Alcove in Navajo sandstone Kanab UtahI guess we could say leaving our stories on rock could be historic, in the future.  But that would probably only hold true if you became famous otherwise you could be fined as a vandal depending on where you leave your mark.  Think I’ll just continue to explore and appreciate the more ancient stories in stone and share some photos online.  To me, many times, rock IS the art.

 

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22 June 2015

Surviving desert heat: shop, hike, eat

After enjoying the coolness at 8200 feet for several weeks it was time to do a major shopping trip which meant surviving desert heat at lower elevation.

Meadows SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaDrove off the Kaibab Plateau in the afternoon at a balmy 77F.  Everything looks so green and lush with our late spring rains and snows.

Jacob Lake Fire tower SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaYup, another fire lookout tower near Jacob Lake.  I’ve climbed this 100 foot one too.

Destination Kanab, Utah where I parked at Bill’s house.  This cut off an hour and a half drive to St. George to shop on Wednesday.  Plus I got to see where Bill lives, nice house by the way, and I invited him to dinner at my favorite restaurant in town, Escobars.  If you like Mexican food this place is the best.  Just don’t show up on Saturday when they are closed.

SR389 ArizonaIn order to try and beat the predicted 104F in St George I left Kanab early, for me, and headed west for another hour.  Thank goodness it’s a pretty drive.  My routine is to go to the farthest store and work my way back to the way out of the town congestion.  Costco was the first stop and I bought a new Memory-foam pad for the 5th-wheel bed.  Had already put one in the truck-camper and that bed was most comfortable.  The box it came in was huge and heavy and another shopper actually put it in my cart.  I managed to muscle it into the back seat of the truck and now will need help getting it out.  Next stop Wal-Mart, where I absolutely hate to shop.  Then Natural Grocery for the last of my list.  Although I seemed to just fly through each store it still took three hours and the temps were rising.  Yet I needed a long-sleeve shirt inside the stores.  I really don’t like AC much but in these soaring towards 100 temps guess it’s a necessity.

Sunset Kanab UtahAfter a second night of dinner at Escobars, Bill’s treat this time, we sat out in his back yard talking and enjoyed a pretty sunset while the temperatures thankfully dropped to doable 70s.  Sleeping was fine as the temps continued to drop and it was even a bit chilly in the morning.

DSC_3262 Bunting Trail Kanab UT

Flowers Bunting Trail Kanab UtahWhich made it perfect to take a walk with Bill’s dog Sasha on the nearby Bunting Trail amongst the Vermilion Cliffs in the morning.  All the spring rains really brought out the flowers in the otherwise dry desert environment.

View north to Kaibab Plateau from Bunting Trail Kanab UtahWith only a little climb the views north spanned to the Kaibab Plateau, where I would soon return to cooler temperatures.

Bunting Trail Kanab UtahThis is a gorgeous hike into the red rocks of southern Utah.  Bill and Sasha walk here almost every morning.  In fact we crossed trails with a lady he sees regularly walking with her dog Singer.  I think the trail head is only about a mile from his house.  Nice and convenient.

Bunting Trail Kanab Utah

Dinosaur track Bunting Trail Kanab Utah

Dinosaur track Bunting Trail Kanab UtahWe really didn’t go far, our destination was dinosaur tracks in broken down sandstone that was once sand dunes.  The three toed prints are about 12×8 inches and we could see two tracks on this boulder.

Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park UtahAfter breakfast at Houstons we took a drive around the properties of Best Friends and then to the Coral Pink Sand Dunes.

Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park Utah

Coral Pink Sand Dunes UtahThis State Park was carved out of BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land basically for ORV recreation.  I’m sure glad some of the dunes were spared the tearing up that involves.

View east from Coral Pink Sand Dunes UtahPlus there are the distant views.

Out of order pay phone Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park Visitor Center UtahA quick stop at the Visitor Center to refill water bottles and I just couldn’t resist this antique.

Hybrid bison North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaBefore long it was back to the North Rim where I saw the hybrid bison for the first time this season.  And back to work on Friday.  I have no desire to return to the desert heat any time soon so hiking and camping may be limited to the Kaibab Plateau for a while.  I’m OK with that.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

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