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Category: Utah

11 November 2015

Arches National Park via unusual histories

North Sixshooter Peak UT211 UtahNorth Sixshooter Peak

On the fourth day of our short five-day vacation after a delightfully quiet night camped near Hamburger Rock BLM just outside The Needles District of Canyonlands and after repacking the back of Bill’s truck hit the road headed to Arches National Park.

Newspaper Rock UtahA quick stop at Newspaper Rock had me wondering what it all means.  Archaeologists think “the figures represent storytelling, doodling, hunting magic, clan symbols, ancient graffiti, or something else.”  What do they know?  It’s all open to interpretation.  I see the 2000 year history of people.

Mario's Place UT211 UtahWe continued to drive through intriguing geologic and more recent cultural history like quickly flipping the pages of a book.  Currently called Mario’s Place with a sign hung on the gate to prove it—or somewhere in the general area—Bill was told a women once lived in the shadow of Shay’s Mountain and had several men living around the acreage that she could choose which one to bed any night.  Known as polyandry when a woman has multiple husbands instead of the more frequently heard of polygamy—multiple wives—that’s usually heard of in Utah.  (Please remember the source.)

Church Rock Junction UT211 & US191 UtahJunction UT211 & US191 Church Rock then north up Dry Valley.  Would you have called this Church Rock?

Arch in the making US191 UtahMaybe an arch in the making.  Over time cracks, joints, and folds in the sandstone are saturated with water which then freezes and melts over time causing rock to break away and eventually can create an arch.

Wilson Arch US191 UtahLike Wilson Arch seen a little further down the road named after Joe Wilson, a local pioneer who had a cabin nearby in Dry Valley.  Can you imagine living here in the early 1880s likely a Mormon farmer or his wife as the earliest of white settlers scratching a life from the red and white rocky landscape?  Not for me, but I’d love to wander into this land for many days to discover some of its secrets.

Hole in the Rock US191 UtahPast Hole in the rock, where we did not stop, which is referred to as an historic 5,000 square foot home and now an unusual gift shop and trading post.  Read tourist trap.

Barkery Moab UtahStopped in Moab for lunch at Eddie McStiff’s with an outside eating area that’s dog friendly.  The server even brought Sasha a bowl of ice water.  I had a delicious Gyros sandwich, which are difficult to find.  I’d recommend the place.  Then Bill went to a book store while I thought about taking Sasha to the BARKery.  Seriously, I think a self-serve dog wash is a great idea.

Finally crossed the Colorado River and entered Arches National Park.  Only waited in line to enter the park a few minuets, not so the next morning when we returned.  Stopped at the Visitor Center for a Junior Ranger book.

La Sal Mountains Arches National Park UtahThen drove up, literally up, the park road with our first stop at the La Sal Mountains Viewpoint.

Three Gossips Arches National Park UtahOnce again, no time for hiking so most of the photos are drivebys including the iconic Three Gossips.  Wondering what they’re talking about?

Arch interpretive sign Arches National Park Utah

Baby Arch & Sheep Rock Arches National Park UtahOr quick overlook stops like at Baby Arch, to the left, and Sheep Rock to the right, possibly an ancient arch that is no more.

The Great Wall with arches Arches National Park UtahPast the Great Wall with many arches.  All of these places calling to hike in closer.  Unfortunately Arches is not dog friendly.

Delicate Arch Arches National Park Utah

Delicate Arch Arches National Park UtahTwo trails lead to Delicate Arch, or at least views of it.  Back in 1983, Bill was married under Delicate Arch which required a 3-mile round trip hike.  On this day we settled with a 100 yard walk to the lower viewpoint so as not to leave Sasha in the truck too long.

Fiery Furnace Arches National Park UtahBack to the main park road headed to the campground, which of course was full, we made another stop at the Fiery Furnace overlook named not for heat but the iron red colors of the fines and spires that make up the landscape.  Trails lead through this labyrinth that looks like it would be easy to get lost in.

Arches National Park Utah

Arches National Park UtahSaw several more arches on the return drive back out of the park.

Three Gossips Arches National Park UtahBack past the Three Gossips.

Colorado River Recreation Area UT128 UtahThen we searched for a place to camp along the Colorado River Recreation Area for our last night before the October 1st drive back to Kanab via more back roads.

 

BTW, today being veterans day, a BIG Thank You to all those who served in the US Military, is also a FEE FREE day for your National Park sites.

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National Parks and Monuments, Utah Arches National Park 20 Comments
09 November 2015

A quick visit to The Needles District Canyonlands National Park

Entering The Needles District Canyonlands National Park UtahAfter spending a good portion of the day driving up and over the forested Elk Ridge teasing views of the distant rock in The Needles District Canyonlands National Park beckoned for a quick visit.

The Needles District Canyonlands National Park UtahWooden Shoe Arch

By the time we got there (2pm) of course no campsites were available in the 26 site, first come first serve, Squaw Flat Campground.  Yet Bill knew of BLM land outside the park where we could camp so we burned the last daylight driving about 7 miles to the end of the road then back.

The Needles District Canyonlands National Park UtahMade up of four distinct districts—the Island in the Sky, the Needles, the Maze, and the rivers—Canyonlands is huge at 527 sq mi.  According to the park’s information the farthest district to the north, Island in the Sky, is the “most accessible offering expansive views from many overlooks along the paved scenic drive, several hikes of varying length and a moderate four-wheel-drive route called the White Rim Road.”

The Needles District Canyonlands National Park UtahThe Needles, where we visited, offers more of a backcountry experience requiring some hiking or four-wheel driving to really experience the landscape.

“The Maze is a remote district requiring considerably more time and self-reliance to visit.  Northwest of The Maze, Horseshoe Canyon is a day-use area with stunning Native American rock art panels.”  And I’d gladly visit either/both the Colorado and Green rivers floating along beneath the towering walls for a whole different perspective than hiking or driving.

The Needles District Canyonlands National Park UtahOur drive was restricted pretty much to pavement with a few overlook stops.  There are no roads that directly link the districts because of the canyons and topography so allow two to six hours by car.

Elephant Hill area The Needles District Canyonlands National Park UtahA gravel side road took us to Elephant Hill trailhead, a “hairy” 4×4 route Bill has driven in the past.  It is rated as the toughest 4-wheel drive in the state of Utah.  Bill says it takes you into beautiful landscapes but the drive is a “mofo”.  There are also several enticing trails to destinations like “Druid Arch”  in Elephant Canyon.

Wooden Shoe The Needles District Canyonlands National Park UtahPhotos taken through bug spattered windows are tough.

Big Spring Canyon Overlook The Needles District Canyonlands National Park UtahBig Spring Canyon Overlook at the end of the road offered panoramic views of banded sandstone, spires and toadstools.  Plus a trail goes to an overlook of the confluence of the Colorado and Green Rivers.  However, we had no time for that and the trails are not dog friendly.

Toadstool Big Spring Canyon Overlook The Needles District Canyonlands National Park UtahOnce a dune field on the edge of a shallow sea sediment was deposited, lithified, uplifted, fractured, flooded and since eroded into the banded and carved rock and canyons seen today.

Harts Draw UT211 E BLM UtahWe made a stop at the Visitor Center on the way in to pick up a Junior Ranger book.  Unfortunately it closed at 4pm so didn’t get my badge or a chance to walk around the displays.  An excuse to return along with many others.  So we headed out of the official park into a gorgeous valley to find a campsite.

Late light & camp Hamburger Rock BLM UtahOnly three miles from the park a sign and side road directed us to Hamburger Rock campground BLM, level with a fire ring, and probably toilets if we’d driven in a little farther where we could see a couple RVs.  Guess we stopped a little short and had the landscape to ourselves.

Sunset & crepescular rays Hamburger Rock BLM Utah

Virga sunset from camp Hamburger Rock BLM UtahAfter dinner we sat out and watched the day wane into sunset wondering if rain would come our way for our visit to Arches National Park the next day.

 

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02 November 2015

Reminiscent ride over Elk Ridge

Elk Ridge Cottonwood Canyon Road UtahLeft Blanding and drove back west towards Natural Bridges but turned north before Comb Ridge for a reminiscent ride over Elk Ridge in the Manti-La Sal National Forest where Bill once headed the fire crew from Gooseberry Guard Station.

Ute land sign Cottonwood Canyon Utah

Semi-dry Wash Cottonwood Canyon Road UtahBy 8:30 we were driving up Cottonwood Canyon, at first paved then gravel.  Within 30 minutes we’d entered Ute Land where there’s a whole lot of NOs.  In 1923 an allotment was taken out of the Manti-La Sal for long time Paiute residents.  There land their rules.

Fall colors Cottonwood Canyon Road UtahThis slightly maintained road provided some early fall color views.

Cottonwood Canyon Road Manti-La Sal National Forest UtahOnce back on the National Forest we went up, over and around Horse Mountain.  A beautiful drive through fall changing forest, across mostly dry washes and below towering red walls of sandstone.

Manti-La Sal National Forest Utah

Southern Canyonlands from Manti-La Sal National Forest UtahPlus distant teasing views of southern Canyonlands.

Drive into Gooseberry Guard Station Manti-La Sal National Forest UtahAround 11 we stopped at Gooseberry Guard Station, located at the edge of a large golden meadow, two ‘cabins’, an outhouse, and a volunteer’s slide-in camper off its truck.

Outhouse Gooseberry Guard Station Manti-LaSal National Forest UtahBill worked here with three other guys in the 70s when the place was off grid.  They hauled water and used lanterns and an outhouse.  Fuel for their 2-wheel drive long-bed Chevy pickup truck came from the old fashioned glass-topped fuel pump.  After breakfast prepared on a wood cook stove they patrolled the many forest roads looking for fire.  Often they sat on the porch during lunch watching storms and then went looking for smokes.  Bill says it was one of the best six weeks of his life.  He worked fire four seasons and was available for at least another four years while later working for BLM (Bureau of Land Management).

Gooseberry Guard Station Manti-LaSal National Forest UtahThe first Gooseberry Guard Station cabin was built in 1919 but replaced in 1934 with a smaller cabin where Bill stored the beer.  The larger cabin that they lived in was moved from Cortez, Colorado in 1967.  Now it has solar panels and although not permanently staffed is still used by Forest Service employees when needed.

BLM Utah

Pinyon Pine cones BLM UtahFrom here we continued our drive through a forest of bumper crop pine nuts and people were taking advantage of the bounty gathering bags full of nuts.

Southern Canyonlands National Park from BLM Utah

Southern Canyonlands National Park from BLM Utah

BLM UtahSuddenly the views opened and below, yet far away, we could see the southern portion of Canyonlands’ Needles District.  But we were still many hours drive away.

Abajo Mountains BLM Utah

Dugway BLM Utah

Dugout Ranch UtahFinally came down the dugway and to Dugout Ranch before hooking a left to Canyonlands National Park.

Needles District Canyonlands National Park UtahAnd of course arrived too late for a campsite in the park.

All stories about Bill were shared by Bill and only slightly edited by me because Bill also says that at least 95% of what he says is Bullshit.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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