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Category: Utah

21 March 2016

Keeping your cool when stuck in a sand dune

March 2, 2016

Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

On a beautiful Wednesday in southern Utah Bill and I decided to explore nearby Peekaboo Canyon but instead one wrong turn found us stuck in a sand dune.

Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

Only nine miles (14 km) north of Kanab, my current backyard, a small sign indicates the turn for Peekaboo Canyon and there’s a parking lot for those who trailered in OHVs (Off Highway Vehicles).  There’s also a 2.86 mile (4.6 km) primitive road to the trail head.  We left home about 10am not worried about an early start as it takes high noon for the sun to reach into most slot canyons.

Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

Off we went down the sandy one-way track, Bill behind the wheel, me contentedly marveling at the view and taking photos through the buggy windshield as we bounced along.  (Reason for fuzzy photos.)

Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

A little more narrow in some places that added graphics to the truck’s already dull paint.  Although Bill says it’s due for a paint job he’d probably be relieved after the first new scratch(es).

Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

The sand got deeper, lacking a firm base below, we were dune hoping in the Tundra 4×4 and shortly after a fork in the trail Bill realized we’d taken the wrong turn from the start and were bouncing along on an OHV trail, with no place to turn around.

Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

Over much time and use this ‘track’ sinks into the soft sand dunes creating higher banks on each side.  (Take note of this view for later.)  There is little vegetation with groves of Ponderosa Pine in some of the dips.  One of which we finally found firm enough ground to turn around.

Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

Remember I said in “dips”, those are low spots, below a hill of sand.  Not easy to get momentum for the climb even with 4×4.  (Note this sandy hill for later.)

Bill & dead truck sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

We were climbing.  Then there was smoke.  Stinky gray smoke, coming from under the truck.  And, no more clutch.  There we sat, stuck in a sand dune with no go.

Bill keeps his cool, more than passing the “flat tire test”.  Much to learn from this as I tend to get frustrated and stressed out, not healthy.  But his calm kept me calm.  I mean really, I had 3bars on the phone and Bill has AAA.  So he calls the local tow service, tells them where we are, and then walks maybe 1/4 mile to that fork in the trail to wait.  Now 11am.

Bill's truck Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

In the meantime, Sasha and I found a place to hang out in the shady grove of pines.  But not for long before Bill calls and asks me to move to the top of the hill, remember ‘that’ hill, so I can be seen and the tow rig can stop before the hill.  No problem, as I trudge through the soft sand with help from leashed Sasha giving me a little tug.

 

Sahsa sand dune UtahI found a comfy place to shape a seat in the dune’s fine sand, me in the warming sun and shade for Sasha, she has black fur.  At first I checked my email and sent a photo into the FB world, because I could.

 

 

 

Sand dunes Utah

Then I just sat and marveled at this glorious landscape, stark color contrasts, the breeze bringing a light desert scent that if I wore perfume that’s what it would be.

Sand dune Utah

 

Grass tree sand dunes UtahI like sand dunes and have seen quite a few lately at Death Valley and Mojave, seen being the key word here, as I don’t usually walk out into the sifting sand.  It’s beautiful beyond words, soft and sensual, unless it’s in your eyes, clothes or shoes.  I prefer my sand lithified, into sandstone.  Much easier to walk on.  But if you’re going to be stuck somewhere, this was a great place to be.

 

 

 

 

Rescue Jeep Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

Noon, almost too soon I saw a Jeep coming down the road and knew it had to be the tow rig.

Sahsa hooked to Jeep Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

 

 Bill with winch line Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

 

Everyone had a job to do.  Bill and Ben, the Jeep driver, hauled the tow line from the winch, and I stayed out of the way and took photos.  Once they had everything hooked up my assistant Sasha joined me on a dune and watched the show.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jeep winches Bill's truck Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

Wow!  Am I ever amazed by the power of a winch.  Never had one.  S l o w l y, ever so slowly the Tundra crawled up ‘that’ hill, and just before it crested coming closer to the Jeep Ben kicked it in reverse and kept pulling it along.

Bill's truck being winched by Jeep Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

Once over ‘that’ hill Ben turned the Jeep around and re-hooked with a tow strap.  Sasha and I got in the Tundra with Bill and off we went.  But not very far before the soft sand banks on a curve caused the front wheels to have a mind of their own and turn the opposite way Bill tried to steer.  Again the Jeep got turned around, the winch was put back to working the Tundra slowly past the curve.

Bill's truck being winched by Jeep Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

I was even more than impressed with this Jeep Rubicon, and it’s operator Ben.  The winch even has remote control.  Neither of us liked how this tore up the dunes.

 

Keeping tire straight Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

 

OK, back to the tow strap with forward motion, but every curve caused problems.  I hug out the passenger window to watch the front tire, letting Bill know when it wasn’t straight.

 

 

 

 

 

Jeep towing Sand dune ATV trail to Peekaboo Canyon Utah

We ended up going most of the couple miles with Ben backing up and connected by winch line.

Old SR89 Utah

1:30pm, pavement.  Where the “real” tow truck was on its way to bring Bill’s truck back into town, for repairs.  Ben gave me a ride home and when Bill got to town at 3pm I gave him a ride home.  Thank goodness he has a second truck.  The clutch had to be replaced but our sand dune ride was only the proverbial straw.  And all things considered four hours from stuck to returned wasn’t bad.  Of course we still need to get to Peekaboo Canyon.

If in need of a tow or mechanical services in the Kanab, Utah area I highly recommend Ramsay Towing.  Some of these photos will be on their “Wall of shame.”

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Utah life, sand dunes, truck troubles 30 Comments
17 February 2016

Get outside and engage with nature

Second week in February, the temps were in the 60s, the sky a brilliant blue, I needed to get outside and engage in nature.  How ‘bout you?

SR89 north Kanab UtahFeeling like spring in southern Utah and hadn’t been out hiking in way too long.  So last Friday Bill and I took Sasha for a walk on BLM near Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park.  Ground was mostly dry, a few patches of snow remained in the shade.  Delightful!

Machinery for chaining BLM UtahIs this ugly or what?

Except for seeing the chaining, a process of stripping the land mechanically for the supposed betterment for grazing livestock.  Beautiful old junipers and pinyons perhaps 100s of years old, wantonly knocked down so some stupid cow can be there.  It’s almost enough to make me a vegetarian.  I can’t imagine what there is left to graze on, or what was grazable in the first place.  Truly ugly.  The arid drought stricken Southwest is no place for cattle.

Snow Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park UtahThe BLM part of the dunes is heavily used by ATVs and because there really isn’t a “trail”  riders go wherever.  Fun toys I guess even though not my preferred transport but irresponsible operators often tear up the land as bad as the chainings.     [BLM = Bureau of Land Management or “Bureau of livestock and mining” as Bill says.]

Two cows BLM11 UtahWell speak of the…

We parked by a coral to walk on BLM11.  Went through a gate and tiptoed past security with Sasha on a short leash and although we saw evidence of more bovines never actually saw any more as we walked down a dry wash also used as a road probably by the nearby ranchers.

Dry wash BLM11 UtahSasha happily ran off leash yet always nearby even if not visible in the brush.  Up and down the sides of the bank she goes sniffing along the way and always seeking shade.  She laid in the snow and drank from puddles.  I know she gets at least five times as much exercise as we do lollygaging along at my slow photographers pace.  What a delight for us all to get outside.

Dry wash BLM11 Utah

Sasha spillway BLM11 Utah

Snow spillway BLM11 UtahWhen we got to a small spillway with warm dry rocks to sit on we stopped and chatted, and mostly enjoyed the sun and good company.  With me of course taking photos.

Cliffs above BLM11 UtahDid we make it to the towering orange layered cliffs?  No, but who cares.  It’s about the journey, not the destination.

Block Mesas seen from BLM11 UtahAlmost back to the parking lot when we heard a rig coming.  One cowboy in a beat up pickup turned out of the wash and u-turned around a tree.  Got out of the truck briefly, possibly to take a pee.  We had stepped off the road for him to pass but then cautiously continued as Bill reminded me these are the “Sagebrush Rebellion” type of people.  Then cowboy drove back into the wash with us again off to the side and slowly drove by tipping his hat when I waved.  Not sure I want to get into this discussion about the use of public lands but I think this High Country News article puts the recent Malheur occupation into perspective.

Gaelyn & Bill Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park UtahBack through the state park with a brief dune walk stop where I took maybe my first successful selfie with Bill using my new phone.  I need more practice so am looking for cooperative sidekicks.  Bill actually gave me permission to post this one so he’s getting better at smiling for the camera.  I’ll try to get Sasha in with us next time.

Unidentified dry plant Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park Utah

Snow Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park UtahMore interesting than our pusses was this winter version of the dunes where life is on hold and the snow highly contrasts with the rich coral pink color of the sand.

Hawk Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park Utah

Moccasin Mountains Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park UtahA hawk soared overhead which I tried repeatedly to capture but even manual focus didn’t do the trick.

White Cliffs & Skutumpah Terrace Hancock Road Utah

Best Friends Kanab UtahStopped at Ponderosa Camp for lunch under the pines then headed home via a loop drive through the huge Best Friends acreage.

And for another opportunity to engage with nature, as of yesterday Bill and I were on our way to Death Valley National Park.  Hoping for a Superbloom.  If I have a signal will try to post photos to Facebook.

Seems a lot of the photos are fuzzy.  My camera is having trouble auto focusing and my manual focus hasn’t ever been good.  I’ve tried a different lens and carefully cleaning the contact points which didn’t help.  My four year old Nikon D5100 introduced me to the world of DSLR.  I’ve grown past AUTO, am getting better at guessing estimating both shutter speed and f-stop on Manual, take lots of shots to get the one I may want or like the best, and if your comments mean anything my photography keeps improving.  Having Lightroom for post-processing has helped a lot too but you can’t fix a really bad photo.  The shutter count is 81,529 out of a manufacturer expected 100,000.  Don’t think I can justify the cost of a new DSLR right now.  Maybe by the time I’m back to work I’ll have a better idea about replacement while still using my current lenses.  I have a Nikon Coolpix P600 that I’m not overly excited about yet does work for my drive by shots.  The current challenge is to get better at manual focusing.  Anyway, I’m open to comments and suggestions.

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11 January 2016

Snowy drive through Zion

SR89 north UtahHaving a cold kept me in for almost a week, and I had cabin fever.  Bill had cabin fever.  Even Sasha had cabin fever.  Needed groceries in St. George because local options are limited.  So we took a snowy drive through Zion National Park on the way to town.  WOW!  The snow is pretty much melted here in Kanab making things rather ruddy—that’s red mud.  But Zion, a totally different story.

Zion in distance SR89 north UtahHeading north on SR89 under partly cloudy skies the sun highlighted the white Navajo sandstone cliffs of Zion in the distance.  Patches of white contrast exquisitely against the coral  pink sand dunes as we whized by.  Only 11 miles up the road we turn west on SR9 and already there’s a bit more snow on the ground.

SR9 west UtahThe short drive to the park entrance is delightful and it seems there were hawks roosting on about every fifth telephone pole.  In fact we saw a large gathering of what looked like ravens on the road and I figured there must have been a dead creature providing a meal.  As we got closer a huge bird lifts off among the others and appeared to have something gut-like in its talons.  I don’t like to see death but do understand the circle of life.

A few ranches, tourist traps and campgrounds along the way with the later two being mostly closed under a blanket of white.  So very different from the packed summer crowds and constant lines of traffic.  In fact there was hardly any traffic on this early Sunday morning (suppose all the good Utah Mormons were in church).

Entering Zion National Park SR9 west UtahI love how the color of the road changes from black to deep red when entering the park.  I also love that Bill’s geezer card got us in for free.  Only a few more months and I’ll make that awesome $10 for life investment.

Snow on mesas Zion National Park SR9 west UtahCheckerboard Mesa didn’t quite live up to its name wearing a six inch coat of white and without snow boots there would be no hiking onto the slickrock.

Snowy Zion National Park SR9 west UtahI took hundreds of photos, through the windshield, of this winter wonderland looking like marshmallow frosting on orange chocolate cake.

Desert Bighorn Sheep Zion National Park SR9 west Utah

 

And just when I thought it couldn’t get any better we rounded a curve and saw Desert Bighorn Sheep.  With so little traffic we could stop and just gaze at their magnificence.  A couple cars coming the other way barely slowed down to go around them.  What is wrong with these people.

Desert Bighorn Sheep Zion National Park UtahPlus there were more on the snowy hillside looking for forage.

Frozen spring water Zion National Park SR9 west Utah

 

 

Natural springs provide water to wildlife but they’re not always easy for us to spot in the rock plus they’re not always flowing.  This time of year frozen falls and icicles show better where water may sometimes flow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tunnel window view Zion National Park SR9 west UtahThe drive from east to west in Zion is made even more exciting with the historic tunnels blasted through 1.1 miles of rock.  When built in the 1920s and 30s the smaller than today’s vehicles  were allowed to pull into small areas where windows for ventilation allowed glimpses of scenic views.  These are now blocked off and with traffic and obvious safety reasons you are no longer allowed to stop in the tunnel.  However we did because there just wasn’t any traffic.  Not for long mind you.  But it was a first to actually be able to take photos from the car and I like the way the window frames the view.

Snow Zion National Park SR9 west Utah

Once out of the tunnel the road slowly drops into the Virgin River Canyon in long sweeping loops providing more amazing views and decreasing snow on the ground.

Junction to Virgin River Canyon Zion National Park Utah

Virgin River Canyon Zion National Park Utah

My first time being able to drive up the Virgin Canyon as that road is only open to shuttles, bicycles, hikers and Lodge guests during the summer.  Yet there are limited places to park and the trails are not dog friendly so I just continued to click away through the windows until we got to the end at Temple of Sinawava.

Virgin River Zion National Park Utah

The Virgin River flows strong between its snowy banks.  This was a brief stop because a light breeze made it too cold to be out very long.

Virgin River & canyon Zion National Park Utah

Snowy Virgin River Canyon Zion National Park Utah

Then back down canyon between towering cliffs dusted in white.

Visitor Center Zion National Park Utah

And a quick stop at the Visitor Center with no problems finding parking.

SR9 west Utah

Before we continued west to town.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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