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Category: Utah

26 August 2020

Monsoon rains returning to Bryce Canyon

Pink Cliffs Sinking Ship valley light on Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahStarting with just a tease of rain clouds and a few sprinkles on my second day off last week I welcome the monsoon rains returning to Bryce Canyon on my first day back to work.

Ok, I’m going to try for another weekly update for the Bryce Canyon COVID summer, but not that much has happened.  Last of three lazy days off work I started thinking about the 2021 calendar.  I don’t have all that many, what I consider spectacular, photos from the last year because of breaking my wrists and not making photos for over four months.

Also thinking about what to do after my summer season ends in mid-October.  Maybe a fall journey into Southeast Utah—Capital Reef, Canyonlands, Arches, etc–then south and westward to Prescott for teeth, eyes, haircut, etc., before further south and possibly southeast depending on weather.

Lodge Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAugust is a good month for national park celebrations:  The 21st marked the Historic Sites Act of 1935 “to preserve for public use historic sites, buildings, and objects of national significance for the inspiration and benefit of the people of the United States.”  Bryce Canyon Lodge was listed on the National Historic Registry ‎May 28, 1987.  Not many of these 1920s rustic lodges left in the Southwest. Which one’s have you seen?

light hoodoos trees Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBack to work and after opening the information area outside the visitor center and staffing for several hours I drove to the end of the scenic road, Rainbow and Yovimpa Points, for a favorite day away from the busiest areas in the park.

smoke haze from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBecause fire crew could be heard cutting with chainsaws nearby that segued into talking about fire ecology as soon as I walked to the rim.  An appropriate topic with the hazy view south where smoke from California fires reduced visibility to about 40 miles, half the normal view.  Soon after, a few visitors arrived who were interested in the geology so I presented an abbreviated version of the scheduled 20-minute 12:30 Grand Staircase talk twenty minutes early.  Good thing, because dark clouds gathering overhead cancelled the scheduled talk.  As I walked to Rainbow Point for a better view and to remind people about lightning dangers, I was joined by the park’s Superintendent coming off a side trail from Yovimpa Pass.

hoodoos trees valley Pink Cliffs storm cloud rain Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFrom Rainbow Point’s almost 180° view east it looked like the storm was moving northeast and away from the point.  Moments after taking the above photo, I saw lightning and counted it as less than two miles away.  That was almost immediately followed by a reversed cool wind right in the face.  Time to get safely in vehicles.  I tell visitors that and advise against hiding under the roof of a historic structure that isn’t grounded.  Sometimes I point out lightning scared trees.

visitor slacklining Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAnd speaking of scaring trees…  I am happy to say Bryce Canyon doesn’t allow anything tied to trees—lights, hammocks, clotheslines, slack-lines, etc.—because it is bad for the trees.  Especially the predominant Ponderosa Pine with it’s large chunky bark that is prone to break off.  But really, not dead trees either.  Seems if visitors are planning any unusual activities they should ask a Ranger if it’s OK.

Ranger Paula with drone visitors Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFlying drones is illegal in all national park sites.  I know many things have changed since the National Park Service was established by the 1916 Organic Act, however the mission still includes….

“The service thus established shall promote and regulate the use of the Federal areas known as national parks, monuments, and reservations hereinafter specified by such means and measures as conform to the fundamental purpose of the said parks, monuments, and reservations, which purpose is to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wild life therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.”

flowering bush trees hoodoos valley clouds Sheep Creek overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBecause of the impending storms I started to drive back to the visitor center, with a stop at Sheep Creek/Swamp Canyon overlook along the way.  I’d been told earlier by visitors at Rainbow Point about being hailed on at the Natural Bridge overlook.  Hail is not uncommon during a high elevation monsoon storm.  But not pleasant while riding a motorcycle like some folks I saw.

Sierra cat waiting for water glass in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahRain may have sent the little mouse inside that Sierra caught, but only to play with.  I threw a towel over the poor thing, wrapped it and threw it back outside.  Haven’t seen any more thank goodness.

Ranger April sales tents closed raining by visitor center Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMonsoon rains during Sunday had us scrambling a bit to close and cover the outside merchandise and move Rangers indoors to answer questions.  I was outside counting people for our limitation of 50 in the building for safe distancing.  But due to nearby lightning we up the count to 60 and try to get people under the wooden porch cover while they wait to go inside.  Didn’t last too long.  I wondered if my evening program at the outdoor amphitheater would be rained out but it was just cloudy so the show went on.  Two gals hung out afterwards to ask whether I thought it would rain that night as they were tent camping.  I told them that monsoon storms usually stop by 11pm and don’t start until 11am, but that I also don’t predict the weather.  I swear, just after I got home that night, the rain started at 11pm and continued on and off all night.  Oops.

Bristlecone Pine on rim clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahYou may think me dead but look closer to see I survive on the edge. The land erodes away beneath my roots. Drought causes me to sacrifice. People climbing on me doesn’t help. Yet I live centuries. ~Bristlecone Pine

hoodoos from rim Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day predicted a 30% chance of T-storms for afternoon so I wondered if my two hoodoo geology talks would go.  But it turned into a beautiful day with white fluffy clouds and just enough breeze to make the high 86° day hikeable.  And so the 11am and 1pm talks went on.

hoodoos valley storm clouds rain Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMy Friday—on Tuesday—started with door counting followed by the information station after lunch. By the time I headed to the rim for the 4pm Rim Walk clouds were building and rumbling but I didn’t see any lightning and only a handful of drops fell.  And so I walked with nine visitors talking about the cultural history of Bryce Canyon and how people have connected to the land over time.  With only two stops along the rim the talk ends after less than a mile and about an hour at the historic lodge.

As I sit inside on my first of two days off writing this post, a light rain falls in the afternoon and thankfully stops the noisy construction going on at the corral below where I live.  I like to listen to the world around me, including the monsoon rains returning to Bryce Canyon, even if it’s just briefly.

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19 August 2020

Bryce Canyon COVID summer of 2020 update

Maybe you noticed I didn’t update last week on the Bryce Canyon COVID summer story.  I figure you’re probably tired of reading the same old stuff week after week.  After all, I’m tired of doing the same old stuff week after week.  Not only what to write, but when.  After a nine-hour work day, I’m tired and often not motivated to write.  With only two days off last week I made the first one lazy do nothing and the second a drive to shopping.  Neither very exciting.  I hope it doesn’t sound like I’m complaining, it just is what it is.

Sierra cat on chair in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahOf course, days off include taking care of business.  Two months ago when I checked in with ADOT about the truck license plate tabs expiring mid July their online system said I had a six-month reprieve due to COVID.  Cool!  Yet it bothered me thinking about driving around in Utah with those expired tabs.  So I checked again last week and, supposedly, I needed an emissions test in Maricopa County where my new address is.  Or I can apply for an out-of-state exemption through a contracted, non-government business for $9.50.  Oh, and now ADOT says my tabs are expired.  I get the exemption, and later discover I didn’t need it (what a scam).  But am now able to complete my renewal with ADOT including a late fee.  I gave up trying to call and talk to a human.  Once the new tabs arrive at my Arizona address I’ll have them sent to Bryce.  In the meantime, I hope not to get stopped with expired tabs and only an email receipt.

Oh, and I also registered to vote by mail again because of the change of county since living in Yarnell.  Wonder how long the mail service will take with the current state of affairs?

Mule deer by solar array Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAn early morning opening and Mule deer greeting seen from employee parking lot.  The lower corner of a solar array is visible as well.  Provides power to our combination visitor center and administration building.

hoodoos trees Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWaking to 40° at 5:30am I turn heat on and wonder if summer is on the way out.  By afternoon 80° feels pretty warm for several hours at Yovimpa Point talking about geology and what ever else visitors are interested in.

people off trail Suicide Point from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahYovimpa Point has become a favorite place in Bryce, even though it lacks the intensity of dramatic hoodoos, just can’t beat the view.  Seems every park has it’s idiot tourons that like to challenge the resource, in this case crumbly rock edges past warning signs.

Ranger Gaelyn shadow & social distancing sticker Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI’ve been struggling with computer problems for a while trying to stretch every bit of time out of this almost five-year old laptop.  Every time an update occurs more things go wonky and everything slows down even more.  An intermittent problem with a monitor driver causes lines to dance on the screen and I have to reboot, sometimes more than once.  Murphy’s Law dictated that would happen while trying to set up a slide presentation for my 9pm evening program.  After about ten reboots I finally gave up and connected to the projector anyway and the lines didn’t show up on the big viewing screen.  When I got back home it booted up just fine.  Go figure.

Astro Rangers lazer lights milkyway stars Bryce Canyon National Park Utah by Valerie FazenWork schedules are once again changing due to a reduction in staff.  The two summer astronomy intern students returned to virtual school and Ranger Valerie accepted a permanent job where her boyfriend works.  I went to the going away party at housing’s fire-ring, a rare social outing for me and the only party I’ve attended this summer.  They will all be missed.

Elephants Addo Elephant National Park South AfricaAugust 12th—my lazy day off—was World Elephant Day and being my favorite South African animal I dug out some of my favorite photographs to share on Facebook.  How easily I am distracted dreaming of a return visit.

hoodoos Red Canyon Dixie National Forest SR12 UtahHoodoos Red Canyon Dixie National Forest

Being time for a shopping trip I opted for the beautiful drive over SR14 to Cedar City.  My second day off and I didn’t get a particularly early start.

lava trees SR14 Dixie National Forest UtahOnce I dropped off the Paunsaugunt Plateau the smoky haze from southern California fires hung over the western horizon.  Slipped past the lava flow full of Aspen I want to photograph especially during fall colors.

curve trees Pink Cliffs haze SR14 Dixie National Forest UtahDidn’t take the time to revisit Cedar Breaks National Monument.

cliffs trees SR14 Cedar Canyon Dixie National Forest UtahWound through Cedar Canyon.  Noted plenty of places to disperse camp along this stretch of the Dixie National Forest.

Thai chicken Satay & dumplings Cedar City UtahEnjoyed a Thai lunch before grocery shopping at several stores.  Then the 1 1/2 hour drive back and shot the entire day.  Two days off is not enough.

hoodoos trees Navajo trail clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNavajo Loop trail

Back to work and a bit of a heat wave.  Bryce Canyon National Park sits from 8000 to 9100 feet in elevation and for a week highs have been 92°F.  Feels HOT!  Yet with surrounding lower elevation temperatures in triple digits I’ve tried not to complain.  Visitors expressed relief with temps below 100°F.

hoodoos trees amphitheater Bryce Canyon National Park UtahQueen’s Garden trail

I saw that Death Valley National Park broke a record at 130°F.

Wall Street Navajo Loop Trail hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWall Street Navajo Loop trail

I remind people all day to drink water only to get home after 3-4 liters and realize I haven’t peed all day.

Limited shade and 2 1/2 hours mid-day answering questions and helping people plan their visit with sweat running down my back made me grumpy.  Yet I am glad not to be inside the building doing the same even though it’s air-conditioned.

light on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter lunch I went to the rim for the 2pm hoodoo geology talk for almost 30 people.  Then I hung-out in the shade for a couple hours enjoying my office view, while answering questions.  My 4pm cultural history rim walk started 20 minutes late for one family and because we had shade, we didn’t walk.

Ranger Gaelyn with littler bag Bryce Canyon National Park UtahOn another hot day with the same schedule when the 4pm didn’t go I spent over an hour picking up litter around the Sunset Point parking lot on the forested side of the fence.  I had to keep telling myself the wind blew this trash in or I’d have been really angry about it all. Two visitors took pics of me doing it. Then I roved the rim for about an hour before calling it a day.

tiny Short-horned lizard Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahShort-horned lizard about 1”

Some days are perfect.  An old friend stopped by who I knew from the North Rim and lives in Kanab.  Later I crossed paths with a couple I met last February at Organ Pipe Cactus.

Hazy view South Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAnother day at the end of the road the view from Yovimpa Point was reduced by the smoke haze from southern California fires.  Over a couple hours I presented several mini-talks about fire ecology and the Grand Staircase geology.

hoodoos trees valley Bryce Canyon National Park UtahDriving back I stopped at several of the overlooks chatting with visitors and met some lovely people.  Plus enjoyed some different views than I usually see.

I don’t mean to sound whiny but am feeling a little burnt out, baked and fried, in more ways than one.  Heat, people, and the Bryce Canyon COVID summer wear on me.  But at least it’s not like last August at this time when I fell and broke both my wrists.  Healing has happened to about 99%.

trees Pink Cliffs valley Table Cliff cloud unnamed overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahStill weirdly wonderful at Bryce Canyon National Park.

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06 August 2020

Living in the NOW

Sierra cat on rocking chair in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI really try living in the NOW even though I enjoy memories and planning for the future.  With the recent state of COVID affairs, the future is so unreadable.  So I’m working on one day at a time which includes work and limited play.

Last week on a day off I was home working on the computer.  Everything seemed slow, barely a signal to get online, every program opened “not responding” for way too long.  I was frustrated with waiting.  During mid-day many visitors are online.  Living in the NOW was not so nice.

Rangers pointing at me VC plaza Bryce Canyon National Park UtahCelebrated World Ranger Day July 31st.  All Rangers deserve recognition for taking care of visitors everyday through a pandemic.  My supervisor has worked his bum off making Bryce Canyon National Park Rangers available to the public.  Thank goodness we don’t only staff the information tables outside the visitor center.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter a hoodoo geology program I hung out near Sunset Point.  That day, dramatic clouds provided intermittent shade for perfect hiking and taking photographs from the rim of the main amphitheater.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNo rain hit the ground.

hoodoos valley Table Cliff shadows clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day the clouds thinned out and the temperature rose.  I was a little cooked after four hours roving along the 8000 foot rim at 88°F.

red Paintbrush flowers in Manzanita bush Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA good time to stop in shade and take a photo.

light shadow hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAt one point, a visitor asked where is my favorite special place and when I told him, wherever I am, he couldn’t believe it.  “Like I would love the dump”, where I never go.  I told him “I try living in the now, as much as possible.”  He just couldn’t understand.

Ravens on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Ravens on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMy now is frequently in the comfort of my own home—either RV—or outside in a lovely natural environment.  I kind of plan it that way.

Yovimpa Point from Bristlecone Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLooking at Yovimpa Point from the Bristlecone Trail

Sunday, Ranger Julie and I went to Rainbow Point at the end of the scenic road, another hot day of 90°F at 9100 feet in elevation.  After setting up some tables with props and “Please do not touch” signs I left Julie to present the first Grand Staircase geology talks of the afternoon.

trees Pink Cliffs clouds Bristlecone Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI sauntered 1 1/2 hours roving almost one mile of the Bristlecone Loop Trail.

Southeast view Paria River canyon Rock Springs bench Hackberry canyon 50 Mile & Navajo Mt Bristlecone Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFrom Bristlecone point I enjoyed a long distance view southeast putting more of the surrounding geography in perspective while trying to figure out what I saw.  Navajo Mountain bulges almost 10,000 feet on the horizon about 90 miles away.  Later with good NatGeo maps and some online help I determined to the left of Navajo Mt lies the Kaiparowits Plateau and the right Echo Cliffs.  Mid-ground starts with the upper Paria Canyon, with Rock Springs Bench next, followed by the Hackberry Canyon, and a rather unrecognizable flatland beyond which is actually multiple benches and canyons.

trees burn piles Bristlecone Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI chatted with folks about fire ecology.  A section of the trail borders a backburn from 2018 when lightning strikes started the Lonely Fire in late August and early September the Riggs Fire.  They burned together outside the park and started to approach Rainbow Point in the park.  Suppressing fires for over 100 years didn’t do forests any favors.  Now people try to clean up the unnatural amount of dead fuels and even thin some trees in an effort to restore forest health.

Bryce Canyon Junior Ranger book coverAt a forest gazebo along the trail, I met a family and was interviewed by their soon to be Bryce Canyon Junior Ranger.  The Questions from their Junior Ranger Book and my answers follow:

“Which was the first national park you ever visited? When did you visit?”  1974, Rocky Mountain National Park.

“What do you remember about that experience?”   I thought I’d live there someday.  It just hasn’t happened, yet.

“What do national parks mean to you?”  Special places for special people, that’s everyone.

“Of all the national parks you’ve visited, which was the most special to you? Why?”  Whichever one I’m at, as a Ranger or visitor.  Because I try living in the NOW.

Ground squirrel begging Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter returning to Yovimpa Point it was my turn to talk geology while Julie roved.  After several hot hours with multiple small groups I briefly had the overlook to myself.  I sat down in the shade with a dark chocolate fig brownie and water.  Before long, a family arrived, walked to the safety fence, and a kid tells me a squirrel is eating my food.  No, I’m eating my food.  Except I forgot about the Oreos in my fanny pack, that I also forgot to zip shut.  My newest friend.

Navajo Trail trees hoodoos clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahEven though I was tired from the long afternoon, I went out for the full moon rise as it was only ten minutes before sunset making it easier to photograph without using a tripod.  Walked down the Two Bridges side of the Navajo Loop Trail about five switchbacks, just below what I call the Mask.  (For its shape and nothing to do with COVID.)

hoodoo moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utahhoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Took some shots of the last light before the moon rose a little further south than expected through a smoky haze so not visible until about 15° above the horizon.  I moved up and down trail 30-40 feet catching it between several different hoodoos.

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe camera kept going auto on the ISO and I couldn’t figure out why.  After every shot I’d have to try to put the ISO back where I wanted it, on manual.

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I figured out the problem is the touch screen, that is now turned off.  I look through the eye viewfinder with my left (and better) eye and my nose touched the screen.  The camera’s choice was up like 25,000 and exceedingly grainy.

I woke the next morning feeling exhausted after almost seven hours of sleep.  Even after coffee and breakfast I couldn’t do another day at Rainbow Point so called in sick and went back to bed for another four hours of blissful sleep.  Don’t think I messed up the schedule too bad as Paula had help opening then went to Rainbow alone.  I might have overdone the day before getting over heated and dehydrated.

Intern Ben at evening program Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBy afternoon I felt recovered and the next day shared a late schedule with our intern Ben.  It’s his last week here so I gave up my evening program for his presentation about the science of life in the universe.  Really glad I had to open locks for setting up the slide projector and be there for this excellent program, not about aliens.  Afterwards, most of the staff, all wearing masks, joined together in the employee parking lot to look at the sky with our Vogon telescopes.  (Not open to the public.)  The only time we’ve had them out all season.  We are all going to miss the two astronomy interns who soon return to online school.

rock hammer agate rock Agate Hill Dixie National Forest UtahSo, although I was up late on my Friday, the next day I went rock-hounding with April.  Being both our days off, my first her last, we didn’t start our adventure until 10am.  Besides we weren’t going too far away either.  And unlike my last drive-by, we had no problem finding Agate Hill.  Good idea to go rock-hounding with a geologist.

collection various agates from Agate HillOf course we gathered way too much rock even though under the allowed 25 pounds plus one for each person.  So many gorgeous colors: yellows, oranges, reds, black, root beer brown, and white.

Southwest view trees valley Agate Hill Dixie National Forest UtahI was so busy looking down at the rock that I failed to take many photos of the lovely landscape which included the eastern cliffs of Red Canyon as well as the Sevier River valley to the west.  After a couple hours we went to The Big Fish in Panguitch for lunch and quick stop at the market, plus a long wait for April’s ice cream cone at the tourist trap in Bryce Canyon City.  A wonderful day living in the NOW.

I respect that 2020’s NOW certainly isn’t always the best for many reasons.  But for my own sanity, I have to try living in the NOW at least some of each day to find the good and beauty.  What NOW are you happiest in?

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

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Sites I follow, read & recommend

  • A Full-time Life
  • A Yankee in Belgrade
  • Bob's Eyes
  • Box Canyon Blog
  • Camels and Chocolate
  • Dawns bloggy blog
  • In the Direction of Our Dreams
  • Jane in her infinite wisdom
  • Janie and Steve, Utah Trails
  • Kathie's Birds
  • Las Adventuras
  • Memorable Meanders
  • Oh, The Places They Go
  • On the Road Abode
  • Port Elizabeth Daily Photo
  • Stillhowlyntravels
  • Take to the Highway
  • Technomadia
  • the good luck Duck
  • Travel with the Bayfield Bunch
  • Wandering Earl
  • Wheeling It
  • Yogi's Den

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