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Category: Bryce Canyon National Park

06 August 2020

Living in the NOW

Sierra cat on rocking chair in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI really try living in the NOW even though I enjoy memories and planning for the future.  With the recent state of COVID affairs, the future is so unreadable.  So I’m working on one day at a time which includes work and limited play.

Last week on a day off I was home working on the computer.  Everything seemed slow, barely a signal to get online, every program opened “not responding” for way too long.  I was frustrated with waiting.  During mid-day many visitors are online.  Living in the NOW was not so nice.

Rangers pointing at me VC plaza Bryce Canyon National Park UtahCelebrated World Ranger Day July 31st.  All Rangers deserve recognition for taking care of visitors everyday through a pandemic.  My supervisor has worked his bum off making Bryce Canyon National Park Rangers available to the public.  Thank goodness we don’t only staff the information tables outside the visitor center.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter a hoodoo geology program I hung out near Sunset Point.  That day, dramatic clouds provided intermittent shade for perfect hiking and taking photographs from the rim of the main amphitheater.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNo rain hit the ground.

hoodoos valley Table Cliff shadows clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day the clouds thinned out and the temperature rose.  I was a little cooked after four hours roving along the 8000 foot rim at 88°F.

red Paintbrush flowers in Manzanita bush Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA good time to stop in shade and take a photo.

light shadow hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAt one point, a visitor asked where is my favorite special place and when I told him, wherever I am, he couldn’t believe it.  “Like I would love the dump”, where I never go.  I told him “I try living in the now, as much as possible.”  He just couldn’t understand.

Ravens on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Ravens on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMy now is frequently in the comfort of my own home—either RV—or outside in a lovely natural environment.  I kind of plan it that way.

Yovimpa Point from Bristlecone Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLooking at Yovimpa Point from the Bristlecone Trail

Sunday, Ranger Julie and I went to Rainbow Point at the end of the scenic road, another hot day of 90°F at 9100 feet in elevation.  After setting up some tables with props and “Please do not touch” signs I left Julie to present the first Grand Staircase geology talks of the afternoon.

trees Pink Cliffs clouds Bristlecone Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI sauntered 1 1/2 hours roving almost one mile of the Bristlecone Loop Trail.

Southeast view Paria River canyon Rock Springs bench Hackberry canyon 50 Mile & Navajo Mt Bristlecone Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFrom Bristlecone point I enjoyed a long distance view southeast putting more of the surrounding geography in perspective while trying to figure out what I saw.  Navajo Mountain bulges almost 10,000 feet on the horizon about 90 miles away.  Later with good NatGeo maps and some online help I determined to the left of Navajo Mt lies the Kaiparowits Plateau and the right Echo Cliffs.  Mid-ground starts with the upper Paria Canyon, with Rock Springs Bench next, followed by the Hackberry Canyon, and a rather unrecognizable flatland beyond which is actually multiple benches and canyons.

trees burn piles Bristlecone Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI chatted with folks about fire ecology.  A section of the trail borders a backburn from 2018 when lightning strikes started the Lonely Fire in late August and early September the Riggs Fire.  They burned together outside the park and started to approach Rainbow Point in the park.  Suppressing fires for over 100 years didn’t do forests any favors.  Now people try to clean up the unnatural amount of dead fuels and even thin some trees in an effort to restore forest health.

Bryce Canyon Junior Ranger book coverAt a forest gazebo along the trail, I met a family and was interviewed by their soon to be Bryce Canyon Junior Ranger.  The Questions from their Junior Ranger Book and my answers follow:

“Which was the first national park you ever visited? When did you visit?”  1974, Rocky Mountain National Park.

“What do you remember about that experience?”   I thought I’d live there someday.  It just hasn’t happened, yet.

“What do national parks mean to you?”  Special places for special people, that’s everyone.

“Of all the national parks you’ve visited, which was the most special to you? Why?”  Whichever one I’m at, as a Ranger or visitor.  Because I try living in the NOW.

Ground squirrel begging Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter returning to Yovimpa Point it was my turn to talk geology while Julie roved.  After several hot hours with multiple small groups I briefly had the overlook to myself.  I sat down in the shade with a dark chocolate fig brownie and water.  Before long, a family arrived, walked to the safety fence, and a kid tells me a squirrel is eating my food.  No, I’m eating my food.  Except I forgot about the Oreos in my fanny pack, that I also forgot to zip shut.  My newest friend.

Navajo Trail trees hoodoos clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahEven though I was tired from the long afternoon, I went out for the full moon rise as it was only ten minutes before sunset making it easier to photograph without using a tripod.  Walked down the Two Bridges side of the Navajo Loop Trail about five switchbacks, just below what I call the Mask.  (For its shape and nothing to do with COVID.)

hoodoo moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utahhoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Took some shots of the last light before the moon rose a little further south than expected through a smoky haze so not visible until about 15° above the horizon.  I moved up and down trail 30-40 feet catching it between several different hoodoos.

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe camera kept going auto on the ISO and I couldn’t figure out why.  After every shot I’d have to try to put the ISO back where I wanted it, on manual.

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I figured out the problem is the touch screen, that is now turned off.  I look through the eye viewfinder with my left (and better) eye and my nose touched the screen.  The camera’s choice was up like 25,000 and exceedingly grainy.

I woke the next morning feeling exhausted after almost seven hours of sleep.  Even after coffee and breakfast I couldn’t do another day at Rainbow Point so called in sick and went back to bed for another four hours of blissful sleep.  Don’t think I messed up the schedule too bad as Paula had help opening then went to Rainbow alone.  I might have overdone the day before getting over heated and dehydrated.

Intern Ben at evening program Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBy afternoon I felt recovered and the next day shared a late schedule with our intern Ben.  It’s his last week here so I gave up my evening program for his presentation about the science of life in the universe.  Really glad I had to open locks for setting up the slide projector and be there for this excellent program, not about aliens.  Afterwards, most of the staff, all wearing masks, joined together in the employee parking lot to look at the sky with our Vogon telescopes.  (Not open to the public.)  The only time we’ve had them out all season.  We are all going to miss the two astronomy interns who soon return to online school.

rock hammer agate rock Agate Hill Dixie National Forest UtahSo, although I was up late on my Friday, the next day I went rock-hounding with April.  Being both our days off, my first her last, we didn’t start our adventure until 10am.  Besides we weren’t going too far away either.  And unlike my last drive-by, we had no problem finding Agate Hill.  Good idea to go rock-hounding with a geologist.

collection various agates from Agate HillOf course we gathered way too much rock even though under the allowed 25 pounds plus one for each person.  So many gorgeous colors: yellows, oranges, reds, black, root beer brown, and white.

Southwest view trees valley Agate Hill Dixie National Forest UtahI was so busy looking down at the rock that I failed to take many photos of the lovely landscape which included the eastern cliffs of Red Canyon as well as the Sevier River valley to the west.  After a couple hours we went to The Big Fish in Panguitch for lunch and quick stop at the market, plus a long wait for April’s ice cream cone at the tourist trap in Bryce Canyon City.  A wonderful day living in the NOW.

I respect that 2020’s NOW certainly isn’t always the best for many reasons.  But for my own sanity, I have to try living in the NOW at least some of each day to find the good and beauty.  What NOW are you happiest in?

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30 July 2020

Finally monsoon storms at Bryce Canyon

Pink Cliffs valley trees rain storm clouds Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMonsoon storms over Grand Staircase from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon NP

Mornings are the time to get outside for activities as afternoons bring monsoon storms at Bryce Canyon.  And these monsoon storms are often more wind, thunder, and lightning, than rain.

The first several summers I worked in the Southwest at Grand Canyon I despised the rain.  But then I learned to embrace monsoon season, just not in a literal sense, and instead learned to respect and love the much needed rain in this arid land.  Yet lightning needs to be heeded and kept at a safe distance, car or building is safest when lightning is within ten miles.  Now days, we have battery operated lightning detectors and apps on our phones.  But I’m a bit old fashion and still practice what I learned as a kid; see the lightning and count, one-one thousand, two-one thousand, three-one thousand equal to three seconds, etc. until hearing the thunder.  Sound travels approximately one mile in five seconds, and lightning can travel ten miles.  You do the math.

Pink Cliffs valley trees clouds Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI love the dramatic skies seen during monsoon storms at Bryce Canyon.  Sometimes I can take photos and others I cannot.

buck Mule Deer trees from RV window Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA buck grazes in the forest outside my RV windows

I stayed home two out of three days off last week.  Rained hard and hailed as well.  The noon was so dim outside it felt like dusk.  I think storms mess with my internet signal at home.

Sevier River valley clouds SR12 West UtahSR12 west into the Sevier River Valley

Also went to Kanab for some groceries and lunch at my favorite Utah Mexican restaurant.

sandstone cliffs clouds SR89 north UtahIt’s a nice drive along SR89.

Was posting on my Geogypsy Facebook page and noticed the “Page Support Team” was open for questions.  So I asked why only 10% of the 800+ followers are shown my posts.  Amazingly, I got an almost immediate answer in their chat box.  The Facebook algorithm is currently based on how many people interact with my posts.  So, I put out a post asking for interaction and had 281 people reached, 33 Likes, and 36 comments that I responded to.  Cool.  My ego likes this.  And I like conversation, as you know if you comment on this blog.  Sadly, the numbers went back to less than 10% after that.  Guess I’ll have to let go of that one again.  After all, life really is about pick and choose your battles.

Dawg House Farview Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLast Saturday I greeted the 5:45 morning at a chilly 46°.  My schedule started with opening our information area outside by 8am.  After answering questions and offering park orientation for two hours I drove 18 miles to the end of the road through rain and hail.  On the way I stopped for a hot dog at the concession operated “Dawg House” trailer set up at Farview overlook.  I’m originally from the Chicago area and was raised on hot dogs.  Yes, I know what’s in them but eat them anyway.  Don’t we all have a regional hometown food favorite?

Pink Cliffs valley trees storm clouds Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA big thunderstorm hung over the length of the park for over an hour.  After advising people along the rim about the danger of lightning under 10 miles away I returned to my truck and sat out the storm at Rainbow Point.  Monsoon storms don’t typically last more than 30 minutes to an hour moving from basically southwest to northeast.  Yet another storm can follow behind.

Ranger Gaelyn storm clouds Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahOnce it passed I roved a couple hours at Yovimpa Point, just south from Rainbow, with the almost 100 mile view to the North Kaibab Plateau.  Instead of the scheduled Grand Staircase geology program times with few if any people, most of us are doing “mini programs” whenever people arrive and show interest.  Yovimpa is never overcrowded.  I wouldn’t mind hanging out there all day.

White Cliffs valley trees clouds Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahClouds danced all around leaving us alone with the light and shadow game below.  Sure glad I brought the big camera that day.

Sunday after several hours at our information area and closing at 8pm, I presented my slide show evening program about wildlife at Bryce.  Finally got the audio working for the most commonly seen animals: rodents, birds, and large mammals.  I’m still working out the right volume and some of the sounds were quite loud.  Made me wonder if visitors in the nearby North campground were looking for wildlife in camp.

Monsoon storms hit hard the next day so I didn’t go to the rim for either the 2pm hoodoo geology talk or 4pm history walk.  We had to move our information station into the visitor center and limit the number of visitors inside while keeping the rest safely under the wooden porch cover.  When thunder roars, go indoors.  We all talk about lightning safety.  I thought people would already know but sadly not the case way too often.  I had forgotten what it’s like to work the inside desk but now with heavy plexiglass hanging between us and visitors.  Felt like I was shouting through the mask and glass, barely able to hear their questions.

trees hoodoos clouds Red Canyon SR12 West Dixie National Forest UtahHoodoos at Red Canyon Dixie National Forest SR12 west

I felt more than ready for the end of my work week on Tuesday.  With only some billowy clouds and no rain the precursor of many days of blue skies.

I don’t mean to bitch and complain about the visitors.  Really, 98% are good and kind people.  Sadly, it’s the one a-hole that’s remembered at the end of the day.

pioneer building SR89 Glendale UtahPioneer building along SR89 Glendale Utah

Maybe I should get out of this business. I’m snippy with some folks.  Am I just getting old?  After door counting this morning and plaza after lunch I ended my short day roving by Sunset Point. I am truly amazed we don’t have to carry more people off the Navajo Loop trail. Flip-flops and no water. Carrying dogs. What part of “NO DOGS” do people not understand?

Sevier River UtahSevier River

I met a lovely couple from the Phoenix area who are friends of an online friend’s friend.  The bonus of blogging is connecting to awesome people.

trees cliffs SR14 East UtahThe first of my two-days off, I went to Cedar City with a park friend.  Nice to have someone else drive and spent a wonderful day chatting away making shopping so much more bearable.  Plus, it’s a pretty drive, now under blue skies instead of monsoon storms.

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15 July 2020

Shopping from Bryce Canyon involves distance and time

I’m not all that keen on shopping whether it’s a long drive to town or online, but that’s what happened last week when I had to go shopping from Bryce Canyon National Park.

Northeast view Table Cliffs SR12 East UtahNortheast view Powell Point

Grey Cliffs SR12 East UtahI couldn’t bring myself to driving 1 1/2 hours west to the more than adequate sized Cedar City for just a few groceries, mostly fresh fruits and vegies on the list.  So instead I drove about an hour the opposite direction on Scenic Byway SR12 to the cute little town of Escalante.

trees sandstone cliff Puebloan ruin SR12 Utah

trees sandstone cliff Puebloan ruin SR12 UtahAlong the way, a wide place along the road with interpretive signs caught my attention.  The sign indicates looking way up high on the sandstone cliffs for Ancestral Puebloan granaries, food storage structures sort of like our pantries, but they looked more like dwellings to me.  I did not make the several hundred foot climb for further explorations.

house for sale Escalante UtahHouse for sale Escalante, Utah

Mimi's Bakery & Deli Escalante UtahMimi’s

Once in Escalante, first stop was Mimi’s Bakery and Deli for a delicious grilled portabella sandwich for lunch with homemade potato salad and a blueberry muffin for later.  They offer take-out with outdoor seating but I ate mine in the camper.  Got a few things at the grocery store and a couple more at the Organic Grocery. Damn problem with going to town is spending so much money.

East view Tropic Shale SR12 UtahMade one quick stop on the way home because I didn’t have the frozen foods in a freezer.  This overlook by the 7600 foot summit provides a far distant view east across the tropic shale where dinosaurs roamed some 70 million years ago along the marshy edge of an inland sea.

trees Gray cliffs northwest view Powell Point SR12 UtahNorthwest view Powell Point

That was barely 100 miles round trip and took five hours.  A fun and scenic drive with a U, and three-sided view, around Powell Point.

Pink Cliffs trees Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSouthwest view from Yovimpa Point

Back to work for my Monday on Saturday with an early start opening the outside information area.  Visitation is 30-50% down from last year but Saturday’s the busiest.

Southeast view Pink Gray White Cliffs clouds Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSoutheast view from Yovimpa Point

After a several hour stint answering repetitive questions—doesn’t anybody pre-plan and visit websites—I drove to Rainbow Point at the end of the park’s scenic road.  At Yovimpa Point–a short walk to the rim—I presented a couple Grand Staircase geology talks.  Plus took photos of the gorgeous light, shadows, and clouds plus the amazing distant view south across the Grand Staircase geology and national monument.

tree under Natural Bridge Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe tenacity of a tree can teach us much about survival in a harsh environment.

I heard on the park radio lightning was nearby the visitor center and rim talks were cancelled, but never saw a drop of rain.  Though later back home I heard thunder while considering a trip to the rim for sunset.  Yet I just didn’t have the gumption or energy after a full day under the sun and wind.

North campground amphitheater seating Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

mountain lion 6 feet distancing stickers Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I started late and presented the 9pm evening program about wildlife in Bryce.  Complete with animal sounds, the audience loved it and laughed when the sounds snuck in.

 

 

trees hoodoos light Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTemperatures were up into the high 80s and low 90s so it’s plenty warm hanging outside, especially when on the rim for several hours.  There are a few shady spots I rove from.

Pink Cliffs valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahEast view Powell Point from Rainbow Point

Sometimes it’s windy, which helps cool me off, but have to be careful not to loose my hat.

turkey vulture 6 feet distancing stickers Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI should probably get better at shopping online, but I’m a person who likes to touch and read labels so it’s difficult.  Yet somethings are just too far away for in-store shopping, like a new camera.  I asked a couple photographer friends for advice on replacing my well-past-its-time Nikon D5100 purchased in 2012.  I want to be able to use the lenses I already have so there were limitations, including budget.  One person recommended the Nikon D3500 camera body for $350 ordered from WalMart.  Not a bad price just a bad store.  But that version doesn’t include two features I like, AE bracketing and a variable motion LED screen.  Another person basically did the online homework for me and found a Nikon refurbished D5600 from a reputable camera store, B&H, for $449.  Not only does it have those two features I want but I’ll be moving up from 16mp to 24mp with less weight.  Yes, I ordered it last Friday and it should be here this week.  Won’t look much different than what I have.  Report coming.

Of course, as soon as I bought the camera my laptop started acting up.  I’m totally not ready to replace it right now.

rattlesnake 6 feet distancing stickers Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI recently discovered shopping for masks online is big.  Duh, why wouldn’t that be the case.  I have a couple black cotton masks issued by the park, and a pretty one made by a friend.  But I can’t wear the surgical masks with metal over the nose as my skin is sensitive to cheap metal.  I thought having my smiling lower face printed on a mask would be a good idea but that would also take shopping online.  I’ll think about it.

Suppose I could learn to order online, planning ahead for shopping from Bryce Canyon to Cedar City for my major grocery needs.  Too bad the new Natural Grocers’ doesn’t offer that option but I do like to cruise that store finding sales and sometimes items that weren’t on my list.  I’ll save that trip for next week, maybe.

West view Powell Point SR12 West UtahView west Powell Point through dirty window

I’m finding it difficult to travel into unknown places where I’m not exclusively outdoors and able to easily distance from people, especially those not wearing masks.  I even try not to spend much time in the Admin building/visitor center. Indoor time is typically my own RV home and vehicle.  Hope you’re not getting bored with the daily life of a seasonal Park Ranger at Bryce Canyon.

signs picnic area closed due to snakes Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahPicnics leave food scraps for rodents who become prey to snakes at Rainbow Point

This article speaks volumes.  I hope we’re not loving our national parks, and each other, to death.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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