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Category: United States

26 July 2023

No bad views of Grand Canyon

Wotons Throne & Cape Royal Desert View SR GRCA NP AZ

view S Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZMultiple views of Grand Canyon, Wotan’s Throne from South Rim and North Rim

When I was a Park Ranger visitors frequently asked which side is better, there’s no bad views of Grand Canyon, so visit both sides.  And that’s what I did.

trees canyon CO R clouds Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZ

light in canyon Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZOn this summer journey, I planned to enjoy views of Grand Canyon from both sides, starting with the South Rim.  So after my wonderful loop drive from Sunset Crater to Wupatki national monuments I continued north on SR89 to Cameron and entered the park from the east side, so much less crowded than the main Village area.

orange Globe Mallow flowers canyon CO R clouds Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZ

Desert View Tower Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZI stopped at Navajo Point and under cloudy skies enjoyed the views of Grand Canyon including a distant look at the Desert View Watch Tower.

truckcamper Kaibab NF AZThen I continued to my forest camp only one mile of rough and rutted dirt road to boondock for the night with a gentle rain.  Not overcrowded, this Kaibab National Forest location is along the way to the Grandview Fire Tower, where I camped last summer.

west view Moran Pt SR GRCA NP AZ

temple pk Moran Pt SR GRCA NP AZThe next day I met a Ranger friend at Moran Point and we spent the day catching up, reminiscing, and enjoying views of Grand Canyon.  I am always amazed that the average park visitor doesn’t spend more than two minutes at an overlook.

 late light Ponderosa Pine needles FR310 Kaibab NF AZ

Ponderosa Pine flower FR310 Kaibab NF AZ

pine pollen puddle reflection FR310 Kaibaba NF AZPine pollen on puddle

pine pollen on windshield S Kaibab NF AZPollen on truck

It rained intermittently over the next several days so I was glad to have a great signal and worked on the next video about Arivaca Creek and the Cruz Ranch and a blog post about my visit to Bisbee during early June.  Yes, I’m that far behind.  The rain helped clear the air of Pine pollen.

CO R Desert View SR GRCA NP AZ

Desert View Watchtower SR GRCA NP AZAfter five nights in this forest location it was time to hit the road for some new views of Grand Canyon.  First stop at Desert View Watch Tower, the furthest east overlook with some of my favorite South Rim views of Grand Canyon.

blue Larkspur flowers FR310 Kaibab NF AZMoth on orange Globe Mallow flower Desert View SR GRCA NP AZ

                           Larkspur                                                                                Globe Mallow

I parked in the oversized vehicle lot and walked due west to the rim following a social trail towards the tower with lots of flowers along the way.

Desert View Watchtower SR GRCA NP AZ

GRCA stickers & hat pinThe only reason I went inside the tower was to add another sticker and hat pin to my collections.

SR89 N AZ

Echo Cliffs Navajo Rez SR89 N AZOnce back to SR89 I headed north across the amazing Navajo Reservation desert landscape.

Echo & Vermilion Cliffs SR89A W AZ

menu Cliff Dwellers SR89A Hatch AZStopped for lunch at Cliff Dwellers then climbed up onto the Kaibab Plateau and much cooler temperatures at 7,000 feet.

cookies Jacob Lake Inn AZOf course I had to get desert at Jacob Lake Inn.

truckcamper Jacob Lake AZThen opted to camp nearby.

cows person Crane Lk snow Kaibab NF AZIn the morning I drove south across the Kaibab National Forest surprised at how full the lakes were in the meadows.  Guess I should have expected that because of the record breaking snow fall.

light on Aspen Kaibab NF AZStopped at the entrance station and said hello to a known Ranger then continued to the end of the road.

Grand Lodge verandah NR GRCA NP AZParking wasn’t a problem because the Lodge wasn’t open yet for food service or overnight accommodations.  All that snow followed by melt took out a huge section of both the water pipe and North Kaibab trail so they were under water restrictions.

view from lodge NR GRCA NP AZNo Rangers in the visitor center as it’s now all sales space for the history association.

Mt Hayden Pt Imperial NR GRCA NP AZ

Saddle Mt Marble Canyon Vermilion Cliffs clouds Pt Imperial NR GRCA NP AZEnough of that, I wanted more views of Grand Canyon.  So I drove the scenic road with the first stop at Point Imperial.  I actually had the overlook entirely to myself for a measurable amount of time.

Greenland Lake NR GRCA NP AZ


light on Aspen leaves NR GRCA NP AZ

Made another stop at Greenland Lake, the fullest I’ve ever seen, and I’ve seen it bone dry.  “Lakes” on the Kaibab are actually sinkholes in the limestone, not huge but good water sources for wildlife.

Wotons Throne Wedding Site NR GRCA NP AZ

yellow Desert Sunflower flowers in rock hole Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZThen on to the end of the road to Cape Royal for my favorite views of Grand Canyon.

sunset Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZ

sunset thru pines Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZ

sunset Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZ

Wotons Throne sunset clouds Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZEspecially sunset.

Deer Lake Kaibab NF AZDeer Lake

view E Marble Plateau Vermilion Cliffs Navajo Mt Kaibab NF AZView east Vermilion & Echo Cliffs with Navajo Mt beyond

I could have stayed for days stopping at every overlook for many hours enjoying a variety of views of Grand Canyon.  However, I had other places to go and people to see.  So I headed back north with just a couple stops along the way.  Including Jacob Lake Inn once again for a dozen cookies to take as treats for the friends I’d visit in Kanab, Utah.

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Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, North Rim, Places I've been, RV life, South Rim, United States national parks, Park Ranger, RV living, summer 2023 20 Comments
20 July 2023

Waited out the holiday then headed into northern Arizona

trees crepuscular rays Skull Valley AZAfter wintering in southern Arizona I returned to my home base to make plans and repairs while waiting out the holiday weekend before heading into northern Arizona for the beginning of my summer travels.

trees mts clouds smoke I17 N to Flagstaff AZLeft a friend’s house June 1st and drove further into northern Arizona and a smoky Flagstaff from prescribed burns to the west.

trees snowy peaks FR545 Coconino NF Flagstaff AZI hoped my Coconino National Forest camping place outside of Sunset Crater National Monument wouldn’t be affected.  There was a definite haze but doable.

red Paintbrush flowers FR545 Coconino NF Flagstaff AZyellow Larkspur flowers FR545 Coconino NF Flagstaff AZ

                                         Paintbrush                                                                                     Larkspur

Sparsely scattered flowers popped color on the pine needle covered forest floor.

trees Sunset Crater FR545 Coconino NF Flagstaff AZ Sunset Crater

I was excited to be under the Ponderosa Pines once again and had to hug and sniff a tree.

last light trees clouds FR545 Coconino NF Flagstaff AZI figured the smoke and clouds might bring a pretty sunset through the trees but obscure the waxing moon.

tree branches moon FR545 Coconino NF Flagstaff AZ

grass trees reverse sunset clouds moon FR545 Coconino NF Flagstaff AZThen got lucky.

a'A lava flow Sunset Crater NM AZI wasn’t in a rush the next morning to get to my next destination so decided to go the long way.  A loop drive of 35 miles took me through Sunset Crater and Wupatki national monuments.

red Penstimon flowers trees clouds Sunset Crater NM AZBeen so long I’d forgotten just how gorgeous this drive can be.

grass trees SF Pks clouds FR545 AZ

trees storm clouds FR545 AZThen add dramatic storm clouds over an otherwise fantastic landscape.

white Datura flowers FR545 AZSacred Datura

grass SF Pks rain clouds FR545 Wupatki NM AZI stopped frequently for flowers, views, and whatever caught my eye.

cattle shute FR545 AZ

grass SF Pks rain clouds FR545 Wupatki NM AZLike a corral with a place big enough to park and awesome views of the San Francisco Peaks.

Citidel ruin Wupatki NM AZ

Nalakilu ruin Wupatki NM AZ

walls sinkhole SF Pks clouds Wupatki NM AZOnly made one stop in Wupatki at the Citidel and Nalakilu ruins.

storm clouds SR64 W Navajo Rez AZAfter three extra hours of driving I returned to SR89 and continued into northern Arizona to my destination for the next several days.

Indian taco stand Gray Mt AZHowever a growling belly caused me to stop for an Navajo fry bread burger.

 

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Arizona, Flagstaff, Places I've been, Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument, United States, Wupatki National Monument boondocking, RV life, summer 2023 20 Comments
12 July 2023

Indian Bread Rocks boulders birds & boondocking

light boulders Indian Bread Rocks RA Bowie AZI spent 14 days during early May free camping at Indian Bread Rocks and even got up the nerve to climb the boulders.  Lots of space for boondocking, adequate signal, friendly four-legged bovine neighbors, and a bonus June full moon.

rock pillars Chiricahua NM AZChiricahua National Monument

map route CHIR to INBRAfter visiting Chiricahua National Monument I drove north to Wilcox where I bought propane and diesel then went east to Bowie and south to Indian Bread Rocks Recreation Area.  I kind of went the long way around, but with purpose.

boulders Indian Bread Rocks Rec Area BLM Bowie AZThis BLM managed site looks at the Dos Cabezas Mountains (Spanish for Two Heads) from the opposite side of Chiricahua.  And the rocks are a whole lot different.

truckcamper sunset reflection Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZAfter scoping out a couple places to park I chose a large and level space within sight of the gravel road and day-use area with an amazing view and signal too.  My nearest neighbor, barely in sight over 100 feet away, ran a noisy generator the first afternoon and thankfully pulled out the next morning.  The replacement neighbor was quiet.

last light boulders Indian Bread Rocks Rec Area BLM Bowie AZBecause I was totally stocked I could stay in this amazing place for a full 14 days.  And thus, there will be even more photos than usual.

Ash-throated Flycatcher bird Indian Bread Rocks RA Bowie AZAsh-throated Flycatcher

The palpable silence was only broken by delightful bird song from the nearby Mesquite tree.

longhorn cow Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZOh, and the startlingly loud lowing, which comes from a word that means to shout, MOO of a cow leading a few others to graze among the boulders every morning, then back to wherever in the late afternoon.  Indian Bread Rocks is managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) which allows grazing on public lands.  I spent a bit of time sitting outside chasing shade while watching my newest world go by.

Sierra by truck tire Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZSierra decided she wanted outside as well and head bumped the screen door open. Took me three days of thinking how to better latch that door and even longer to get to a hardware store for a hook-n-eye latch.

Sierra cat outside Indian Bread Rocks RA Bowie AZIn the meantime, I put Sierra’s harness on with no fuss, clipped on her leash, carried her outside and she went straight under the shade and safety of the truck.  I took a short video that went viral. (She gets better numbers than I do.)  Then she immediately backed out of the harness and went wandering straight into the thick leafy duff under the Mesquite.  I ended that foray not quite quick enough to keep her extra-long fur from acting like a leaves-magnet before putting her back in the camper.  Sierra isn’t keen on being brushed but will let me trim a little so within a few days sported a rather choppy haircut.

Black hawk bird Indian Bread Rocks RA Bowie AZBlack hawk, lifer

unidentified hawk on boulder Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZNo more going outside for her as I get stressed and worry about her becoming prey.

bushes boulders clouds Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

Cottontail Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZBut she’s figured it out now and continued to bump the door open.  If she’d stay close by or come when she’s called it might work.  But I worry, so back inside she finally goes.  With temperatures in the high 80s I have to keep the outside door open for air flow.  I blocked her way with water bottles in front of the door.

people climbing slickrock Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZSitting outside in the Mesquite tree shade I didn’t get much reading done because of constantly snapping photos.

late light boulders Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZ

boulders Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZ

boulders bird Dos Cabezas Mts Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZLoved watching the light and shadows change throughout the day.

truckcamper moon Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

half moon clouds Indian Bread Rocks RA Bowie AZAnd I watched for the moon in anticipation of seeing it full rising over the boulders of Indian Bread Rocks.

unidentified bird Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZunidentified bird Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

                                                      Possibly immature Orioles (feel free to chime in)

The mornings felt cool at 65° before climbing into the low to mid 80s.  My signal was good enough to post on the blog and with some patience load videos.  The first of May, and I was still sharing stories from March and April.

Mesquite boulders clouds Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZLater in the day under clouds it felt like a sultry Spring desert day, warm enough to be dressed for summer.  And even though I was in no hurry to leave Indian Bread Rocks, temperatures would rise into the 90s in another week or so. That meant I researched ahead to possible next destinations that included weather and boondocking options.  Maybe the Tonto National Forest and Roosevelt Lake.  Or Hwy 191, known as the Coronado Trail, north through the White Mountains with 460 curves. Paved all the way through the Apache-Sitgrieves National Forest sounded like my kind of road but possibly too much elevation and cold temperatures.

sunset clouds Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

sunset clouds Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZOnce again the evening light show was worthy of awe.

trees boulders moon Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZOn super windy days I stayed inside and worked on videos from Buenos Aires NWR back in April.  Still watching the moon.

trees boulders Dos Cabezas Mts sunset clouds rays Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZI appreciated the wind keeping an 85° day comfortable.  After sunset the wind drops and the temperature does too.

granite boulder Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZ

last light boulders Vultures kettling Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZI started seriously watching for the moon in anticipation of May’s full Flower moon.

sunset clouds moon Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZ

bushes boulders sunset clouds moon Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZCould I catch it coming up over some boulders?  According to PhotoPills I could if I was near the Indian Bread Rocks day-use area.  Being parked next to that proved convenient, though it was never really busy even with multiple picnic tables, BBQs, and a drop-pit toilet.

Dos Cabezas Mts sunset Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZ

late light view N Indian Bread Rocks RA BLM Bowie AZI hoped for no clouds.

 boulders tree moon Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

boulders tree moon Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZAnd got real lucky.

boulders tree moon Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

boulders tree moon Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZPhoto dump!

boulders tree moon Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

boulders tree moon Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

boulders tree moon Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZOnly a few of the too many I took.

White-winged Dove bird Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ Cactus Wren bird Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

                                           White-winged Dove                                                                                Cactus Wren

The next morning while processing the moon shots I was serenaded and distracted by birds.  No complaint.  Managed to upload a 360° camp view at Mittry Lake video that took over an hour.

Boulder view W Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZThat afternoon, I decided it was finally time to walk into the boulders of Indian Bread Rocks.

desert boulders Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

yellow cactus flower bee Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZred Cholla flowers Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

I followed the meandering cow trails while avoiding pies and saw cactus’ colorfully blooming.

trail boulders Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

agave Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZagave Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

I just kept walking along and was surprised at the ease of getting almost to the top.

truckcamper below boulders Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZDidn’t actually climb boulders but did end up several hundred feet above camp.  See the truckcamper?

desert red Ocotillo flowers boulders Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

boulders red Ocotillo flowers Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZAnd I could have climbed higher.

Carpenter bee red Ocotillo flowers Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZCarpenter Bee red Ocotillo flower Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

Large black Carpenter bees swarmed the blooming Ocotillo.

Gaelyn's boulder view N Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

Raven pair soaring Indian Breaad Rocks BLM Bowie AZThe view northeast goes forever, even seeing I10 about five miles away, as the Ravens fly.  Gone almost two hours and walked just under half mile.  Guess Fit doesn’t count elevation.

unidentified Flycatcher bird on Agave stalk Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZAfter all the photos and videos taken over several days I spent several more days processing and editing.  Sure glad for birdy distractions outside my window.  Finished Mittry Lake video and it took 4 1/2 hours to upload.

Great Horned owl on boulder Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZStrangest sighting occurred at dusk when something large, in flight, landed on the boulders, and I saw the silhouette of a Great Horned Owl.

boulder shadows Indian Breaad Rocks BLM Bowie AZI see two bears

boulder shadows Indian Breaad Rocks BLM Bowie AZWhat do you see?

I put off leaving Indian Bread Rocks for a few more days but also started to make a plan for my next stop.  A cold front would keep me from going to the 11,000 foot White Mountains.  Nice thing about boondocking 1-2 weeks in a place is being part of the landscape unlike a short visit. And even that is often not long enough.

Agave boulders moon setting Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

boulders moon set Inidan Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZActually awake early enough to catch the setting moon.

Black hawk soaring Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZBlack hawk soaring Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

The rest of the day was birdy.  Black hawk was a lifer.

imm Oriole bird Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZimm Oriole bird Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZ

Took a while to identify this Scott’s Oriole as immature birds can be foolers.

Gambel Quail bird Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZAlways nice to see Gamble Quail about though too early in the season for chicks.

windmill Bowie AZThen, before I knew it, it was time to leave Indian Bread Rocks.  Not 100% sure of my next destination and still trying to catch up posting on the blog.

towtruck old garage Bowie AZ

former Teepee Cafe Bowie AZTeePee Cafe

Made a quick stop in Bowie where everything is closed except the post office.

truckcamper Sunshine RV Park Safford AZThen headed north to Sunshine RV Park in Safford for the night to dump, fill, and take a much appreciated long hot shower, all for $25.  Appears lots of working folks live here but a nice quiet place and I had a good view.  In the morning I shopped, including that latch for the screen door, and continued on my journey.

Video of Indian Bread Rocks here.

If you’re wondering how I find these places, lots of apps for free/wild/dispersed camping/boondocking.  My recent favorite is iOverlander as it’s still free and shows what I need: propane, RV dump & potable water, free camping, campgrounds, and more.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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