Sodium borate, or borax, known as the “White gold of the desert” once ranked as Death Valley’s most profitable mineral. And after a visit to Death Valley National Park Harmony Borax Works you’ll know why. There’s salt everywhere..jpg "Harmony Borax Works Death Valley NP CA")
Harmony Borax WorksHarmony Borax Works was one of the first mines operating in California from 1883-1888. Owner William Coleman also mined borax in Nevada. Although reasonably profitable, Coleman made some bad investments so when borax deposits were discovered closer to rail lines and new processing technology developed the Harmony closed.
.jpg "Salt deposits Harmony Borax Works Death Valley NP CA")
Salt depositsSalt minerals, or borates, deposited on ancient lake beds uplifted and eroded into the yellow Furnace Creek badlands. Then water dissolved the borates and carried them to the Death Valley floor where they recrystallized as borax.
.jpg "20 Mule Team wagon Harmony Borax Works Death Valley NP CA")
20-Mule Team WagonCrude shelters and tents once dotted this flat where Chinese laborers slept and ate. They scraped the borax off the salt flats with shovels and carried it by wagon to the refinery. They received $1.30 a day less lodging and food bought at the company store. Certainly not an easy life.
.jpg "Interp sign for 20 Mule Team wagon Harmony Borax Works Death Valley NP CA")
The giant wheels were protected with steel tires eight inches wide and an inch thick which had to be replaced regularly. Two men rode the wagons, driver and swamper, and traveled 15 to 17 miles (24 to 27 km) a day. Waterholes were 50 miles (80 km) apart with dusty, rocky, sandy ruts for roads in between..jpg "Boiler at refinery Harmony Borax Works Death Valley NP CA")
Boiler at refineryWorkers refined borax by separating the mineral from unwanted mud and salts. The borax crystallized on iron rods suspended in large vats. However the borax won’t crystallize in temperatures above 120 F (48.9 C) so Harmony Borax Works closed during summer.
.jpg "Interp sign at Harmony Borax Works Death Valley NP CA")
Borax has long been used for every kind of household cleaning from windows to tile grout. It is also a component of cosmetics, insecticide, glass, pottery and enamel glazes. It is used as a food additive or preservative in some countries yet is banned in the US..jpg "On the road Death Valley NP CA")
Some of the workers from Harmony Borax Works lived in nearby Furnace Creek. Which is where we headed next..jpg "Bird tracks on sand Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Salt Creek trail Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Pickleweed Salt Creek trail Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Salt Creek Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Interp sign for Salt Creek Pupfish Death Valley NP CA")
More than 10,000 years ago pupfish lived in streams that fed freshwater Lake Manly which filled the bottom of Death Valley. As the climate became more arid the lakes dried up leaving the pupfish stranded in permanent waterholes scattered across the desert. They can withstand temperatures from near freezing to 111 F (43.88 C)..jpg "Salt Creek Death Valley NP CA")
I didn’t see any pupfish..jpg "View from Salt Creek trail Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "View from Salt Creek trail Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Jeremy and Aguereberry Camp Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Aguereberry Camp Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Aguereberry Camp Death Valley NP CA")
We peaked inside the vandalized buildings not trusting to walk on the dry rotted floor boards to see the remains of Aguereberry’s home now filled with pack rat nests..jpg "Buick Roadmaster Aguereberry Camp Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Piece of Skidoo pipeline Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Jeremy heading uphill to Eureka mine Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Mine entrance Eureka mine Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Looking out of mine entrance Eureka mine Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Mill ruin Eureka mine Death Valley NP CA")
.jpg "Waxing moon Death Valley NP CA")