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Category: California

29 March 2015

Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park

Water brings life to the desert for the native plants, wildlife and people too.  In fact only 100 years ago the arid landscape we now call Joshua Tree National Park saw more precipitation and the hidden springs of oasis filled with palms provided a perfect place to live.  Plus miners and ranchers once built structures like Barker Dam to hold back the life giving water.

Barker Dam trailhead Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaBarker Dam trailhead

I hope you’re not tired of seeing the boulders in Joshua Tree because I did one more walk on my last full day in the park.

NOTWRKN license plate Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaTouring in style

After Keys View looking down on the Coachella Valley full of the congestion of too much civilization in one place I really needed a nature fix.  So after some lunch with temperatures rising enough to reduce one layer I headed for the nature walk on the Barker Dam trail.

Boulders Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaI never tire of seeing the boulders which look stacked by giants.

Rock climber Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThey seem to call for rock climbing and although this one isn’t as big as some it may be a good way to learn without being so far from the ground.

Reflection in puddle Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaI figured with the recent rain Barker Dam would be full of water enticing some wildlife into the area.  There were a a few puddles along the trail.

Barker Dam Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaYet there was very little water behind the dam which looked more like a mud puddle.  Notice the water lines on the surrounding rocks that tell a different story of water levels.

Barker Dam Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaAccording to the interpretive signs, what started as a natural catch basin for rainfall and runoff was blocked by the Barker Dam, originally built by the Barker & Shay Cattle Company in 1902 when an average of 10 inches (.25 m) of annual rain fell here compared to the 2-5 inches (.05-.12 m) now.  Grasses were lush for grazing.

Barker Dam Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThen between 1940-50, rancher Bill Keys and family added the upper concrete layer on top of the lower stone wall.  I really wanted to take the Ranger-guided Keys Ranch tour to see and learn more about this hardy family that survived 60 years in this desert.  Unfortunately, the first available reservations were for two weeks away.

Graffitii on Barker Dam Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaOver the years of low water many have left their mark on the accessible dam wall.  What is wrong with people who feel the need to mar our park’s natural or cultural history?  Does it become part of the story?

Water trough Barker Dam Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaAt its maximum the water encompasses about 20 acres (8 ha) with a pipeline carrying water to the cattle trough in the wash behind the dam.  Non-native plants like willows were planted to provide shade for the cattle and in wet years cattails can be seen.  Whatever little moisture is here attracts many animals and birds.  Coots and grebes are known to nest here and migrating herons stop by.

Lizard Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaUnfortunately my mid-day walk meant most smart desert dwellers were hiding in the shade.

Boulders Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park California

Gaelyn's shadow Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park California

Sun behind boulders Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaI continued walking the loop, up, over and around the boulders, occasionally seeking a shady rest.  I certainly wasn’t tired, yet I wanted to be in touch with the rock, to listen to their stories.

Cholla Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaI don’t touch the cholla

 Joshua Tree Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaOr hug the Joshua Tree

Gray Fox Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaGray fox slips through the brush

Then I moved on, like the miners, ranchers and visitors before me while the true Mojave desert survivors remain, adjusting to diminishing water.  Times will change again for us humans and we would be wise to learn from other life how to adapt.

Rock art Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park California

Rock art Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaPeople before us, bands of the Chemehuevi, Serrano, and Cahuilla Indians, laid out their trails between water holes, gathered plants for food and textiles, and left their marks behind.

Rock art Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaSadly the rock art has been defaced.  Rumor has it that decades ago a film company painted these so they could be seen more clearly.  Presumably we didn’t know any better then.  Ahem.

Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThis easy 1.3 mile (2 km) loop past Barker Dam with a few short rock scrambles took me a couple of lollygag hours as I paused to look at the way life survives in this arid environment even with the occasional help of water.  And speaking of water, I carried two liters finishing both even on a cool spring afternoon.  Think about the dry excessive heat of a summer walk and be prepared.

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California, Joshua Tree National Park Barker Dam trail 27 Comments
17 March 2015

You can see far from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park

Maybe I should rephrase that to you can sometimes see far from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park.  Usually depends on the air quality—how much pollution is blowing in from Los Angeles—the season, and the time of day.  Morning or late afternoon being best during the winter.

Keys View parking loop Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThe first time I visited Joshua Tree during spring many years ago, the wind blew so strong I could barely open my truck door and walk less than 1000 feet (304 m) to the overlook.  Once there I got a gritty, hazy, barely any view at all.  It may be a short walk but is steep, paved and not accessible, for the later parking is just before the end of the viewpoint road.

Coachella Valley & mountains from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaBeing Keys View is at 5185 feet (1581 m) in elevation, the highest point in the park reached by paved road, and perched on the crest of the little San Bernardino Mountains I expected to see forever, or almost anyway.  I read that on a really clear day you might be able to see Signal Mountain in Mexico near the border 95 miles (153 km) away.  More often you can barely make out the tip of 10,831 foot (3302m) Mount San Jacinto about 50 miles (80 km) away.

Salton Sea, Indio & Santa Rosa Mountains from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaFortunately after a leisurely drive with stops along the way my 11am Keys View is clear, just not to Mexico.  To the left/southwest, just a portion of the Salton Sea glimmers at 230 feet (70 m) below sea level, where I camped and watched birds only a week before.

Coachella Valley & San Jacinto Mountains from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThe Coachella Valley stretches 50 miles (80 km) encompassing agricultural lands, small cities like Indio and Palm Springs, and to the base of the San Bernardino Range with 11485 foot (3500 m) snow tipped Mount San Gorgonio to the the right.  “Coachella” comes from a Native American name for the conch shells discovered in this ancient seabed.

San Gorgonio Wind Farm from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaLooking closely into the valley I see miles of white sticks and even from this distance they look out of place.  On even closer inspection, which means camera zoom, the San Gorgonio Pass Wind Farm comes into view.  It’s the oldest wind farm in the US being in operation since 1982.  Currently 2700 turbines produce enough wind energy to power about 300,000 homes.  This is considered the windiest place in southern California when cool air blowing in from the Pacific Ocean, 90 miles (144 km) west, is forced between the mountains then meets the rising heat from the desert floor.  Wind speeds in the pass have reached 80 mph (128 kph) which is slightly faster than a Category 1 hurricane.  Guess that explains all the wind.

Interpretive sign, Coachella Valley, Santa Rosa & San Jacinto Mountains from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaAcross Coachella Valley lies the Santa Rosa Mountains seen from the opposite side during my visit to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.  Plus the San Jacinto Mountains and with its snowy Peak.

San Gorgonio from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaNo matter the view, I’d rather be in the park enjoying nature than down in that congested valley with the San Andreas Fault running through it.  So I continue to explore on this fourth day of visiting Joshua Tree and head to the Barker Dam trail next.

 

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15 March 2015

Exploring Hidden Valley and more in Joshua Tree

First light on boulders thru window Jumbo Rock Campground Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaJust after 6am, the rising sun turns the rock a peachy pink and I want to go out and take photos but it’s cold with a bitter wind so I’ll settle with the view through my window.  Yet later in the day boulders surrounding Hidden Valley block the wind making it possible to explore more of Joshua Tree National Park.

Hall of Horrors Joshua Tree National Park California

Boulders Hall of Horrors Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThe third day of my visit I’m headed to the town of Joshua Tree via many stops along the way in the park.  Once again I am impressed with all the paved pull-offs to hike from or just enjoy the views.  Although some of the names are rather chilling like the Hall of Horrors where magnificent boulder piles beckon, especially climbers who are many here.  But the wind blows cold so my stop is brief.

Saddle Rock Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaSaddle Rock across the road is also a popular climbing route.  In my younger years this would have appealed to me but now I contend myself to easier boulder hopping and just sitting on the sun warmed rock absorbing the earths energy.

Looking towards Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaBy the time I get to Hidden Valley trailhead the sun is up high and it’s feeling warmer so I take off one layer yet bring it along on the hike.  I think wearing all these layers to stay warm adds 10 pounds and an extra size.  The large parking lot is 90% full and some little cars have pulled into the larger RV spaces.  I don’t understand why people do that when there’s empty parking for cars.

I chatted with a lady, Lyn, I’d seen taking photos with her tripod set up close to a bush.  She was trying for a Phainopepla hiding in the branches.  Give her credit for hauling the tripod around as she was told to do by a photographic instructor.  Guess I’m too lazy.

Wall of boulders Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park California

Entering Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaTowering walls of imposing boulders seem to make the other side inaccessible.  Yet story has it that in 1936, only months before Joshua Tree National Monument was established by President Franklin Roosevelt, long time rancher Bill Keys blasted the opening that is used today to access excellent untouched pasture land.

Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaSure glad the landscape is protected now, yet I still appreciate slipping into this boulder protected valley to explore out of the wind.

Balanced boulders Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaI took the loop trail counter clockwise, unlike most everyone else.  Seemed I’d have the sun to my back more of the walk this way which makes it easier to take photos under the high noon sun.  Not the best time for photography but definitely the better time for warmth.  I find it really hard to pick out just a few photos because everything was fascinating, the shape of the rock, piling of boulders, plants, and the crazy climbers.

Climbers Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park California

Rock climber Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaJoshua Tree has become a world-class rock climbing location yet problems have arisen.  People create their own trails trampling on vegetation, and nesting birds and archeological sites can be disturbed.  Climber groups are working with the park to reduce this impact.

Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaHidden Valley is like a miniature world, a micro-climate of it’s own.

Sun behind boulders Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaEven at high noon boulders provide much needed shade which during summer temperatures of at least 100F (38C) could mean the difference between life and death.

Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThe smallest of holes and crevices collect and hold moisture that supports many plant and animal species.

Dwarf Grumpy rock Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThe valley is a transition zone with pines, junipers and oaks living amongst the boulders while Joshua Trees and cactus occupy the desert valley floor.  Food abounds here for wildlife like acorns which the Mountain Quail and chipmunks feast on in the fall.  And the Pinyon Jay who helps perpetuate the Pinyon Pine by carrying seeds off miles away where it may be forgotten and germinate.  The junipers are considered ‘relics’ surviving from a less arid climate of the past now confined to higher elevations and areas such as Hidden Valley.

Pinyon pine Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaNative human desert dwellers from the past also harvested acorns and pine nuts, the later being a most important food source.  After knocking the green cones off branches they placed the cones in fire causing them to open and expose the seeds while roasting them in the process.  Plus pine pitch made a good glue for waterproofing baskets and repairing clay pots.

Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park California

Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaEven the twisted and contorted skeletal shapes of the dead trees, and their shadow, add to the intricacy of this diverse landscape.

Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaAnd don’t ask me why, but the combination of boulders and Joshua Trees remind me of Cartoon Town.

Visitor with Lambchop Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaI was very surprised to see this lady carry Lambchop and just had to take a picture.  She told me to check out instagram and sure enough it’s all over the place.  I didn’t realize there’s a Lambchop following but guess it’s like ‘a collector for everything’.  Does anybody remember Sherry Lewis with Lambchop?

Dog head rock Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park California

Hidden Valley Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThe about one mile (1.6km) loop trail took lollygag me two hours.  It’s mostly an easy level walk with only a few places to climb step-like boulders.

Entrance station & Joshua Tree California

Showers sign Coyote Corner Joshua Tree CaliforniaFrom Hidden Valley I headed to the town of Joshua Tree for lunch, shower at Coyote Corner, and internet.

Benchmark CR-2 1976 Jumbo Rocks Campground Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThen drove the 23 miles (37km) back to Jumbo Rocks campground and went for a late afternoon boulder hop along a similar path as before but this time discovering yet another benchmark which seem to draw me in like a magnet.

Shadows on rock Jumbo Rocks Campground Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThen as the shadows grew long temperatures quickly dropped 10-15 degrees and I happily ended the day in my warm camper only venturing out once more for a not so great, hand held shot of the almost full moon.

Moon Jumbo Rocks Campground Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaFor the pareidolias out there, what shapes do you see in the rocks?  I saw Grumpy—one of the 7 dwarves—and a dog wearing a baseball hat backwards, heads only for both.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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