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Category: Joshua Tree National Park

07 April 2015

Last day in Joshua Tree National Park

First light on boulders Jumbo Rocks Campground Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaAwoke to glorious sunshine lighting up the boulders outside my window at Jumbo Rocks campground.  And even though it was chilly cold I got out for some photos on my last day in Joshua Tree National Park.

Ranger Pam leads geology tour Joshua Tree National Park California

Person on boulders Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaAttended a 9am Ranger-lead geology walk near the campground and Skull Rock.  These rock piles began underground eons ago as molten magma called monzogranite.  Sometimes quartz veins pushed through the molten rock which you can see above.  Then as it cooled and crystallized, cracks formed horizontally and vertically.  Chemical weathering caused by groundwater eroded the granite blocks widening cracks and rounding edges eventually eroding the surface soil and leaving these piles exposed for further erosion.

Skull Rock Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThe short one hour walk began and ended at the famous Skull Rock or optionally continued into the campground.  Most Ranger activities are geared for weekends, when I really didn’t want to be there.  In fact I noticed it getting more crowded as the Friday morning progressed and as I drove out lots of vehicles drove in to reinforce my desire to leave.

Rock climbing route at Hemingway Buttress Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaBut I did stop and admire some boulders along the way.  You know how I love rocks.

Boulders Hemingways Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThe nature sculpted granite provides vertical and horizontal cracks with a rough texture which attracts rock climbers from around the world.

Ranger Nick & Gaelyn with Junior Ranger badge Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaStopped at the Visitor Center in Joshua Tree to get my Junior Ranger badge and bought a Mojave Desert wildflower book.  I always learn so much about a park completing the Junior Ranger book and this one is the largest I’ve seen at 30 pages.  Of course the kids don’t have to finish all the pages like an adult does.  Also got information on BLM free camping at the edge of town and an outdoor art display.

BLM overflow camping Joshua Tree California

Sunset & solar panels BLM Joshua Tree CaliforniaThe BLM overflow camping is about five minutes from Joshua Tree which is a funky small town with a couple restaurants, a tiny health food store and a good old fashioned hippie vibe.  Major shopping requires a 15 mile (24 km) drive to 29 Palms or 10 miles (16 km) to Yucca Valley which was my choice.  The actual BLM is nothing to brag about with lots of broken glass to watch out for and my site was full of shotgun shells though the view was nice.  I was very glad of the specific directions along the rough gravel roads.  Saw less than a dozen groups of people an adequate distance away and the area would be large RV friendly.  It is barely within sight of night-time lights from Highway 62 and near a large solar farm.

Morning view of San Jacinto Peak with setting moon BLM Joshua Tree CaliforniaThe following morning I watched moon set next to the snowy San Jacinto Peak while I planned the day.

Motorized parasail BLM Joshua Tree CaliforniaThen I heard a buzzing sound and looked up.  This version had a motor and I’d rather fly with the wind to get a bird’s eye view.

Went into Yucca Valley to check out the Sky Village Market Place where I’d sold my flea market wares in days past.  A quick walk about satisfied my curiosity and I didn’t see anybody I knew or buy anything.  Also stopped at the Joshua Tree Farmers Market where I picked up a few organic fruits and vegetables.

Noah Purifoy's Outdoor Desert Art Museum of assemblage sculpture Joshua Tree CaliforniaNext I went in search of the recommended Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Art Museum of assemblage sculpture before looking up a friend in town.

Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaFive week-days visiting Joshua Tree National Park was adequate but it would take a lifetime to explore it all.  I think spring and fall would be the ideal times to visit, summer temperatures could be brutal and winter nights quite cold.

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California, Joshua Tree National Park BLM camping, Junior Ranger badge, Ranger walk 18 Comments
29 March 2015

Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park

Water brings life to the desert for the native plants, wildlife and people too.  In fact only 100 years ago the arid landscape we now call Joshua Tree National Park saw more precipitation and the hidden springs of oasis filled with palms provided a perfect place to live.  Plus miners and ranchers once built structures like Barker Dam to hold back the life giving water.

Barker Dam trailhead Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaBarker Dam trailhead

I hope you’re not tired of seeing the boulders in Joshua Tree because I did one more walk on my last full day in the park.

NOTWRKN license plate Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaTouring in style

After Keys View looking down on the Coachella Valley full of the congestion of too much civilization in one place I really needed a nature fix.  So after some lunch with temperatures rising enough to reduce one layer I headed for the nature walk on the Barker Dam trail.

Boulders Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaI never tire of seeing the boulders which look stacked by giants.

Rock climber Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThey seem to call for rock climbing and although this one isn’t as big as some it may be a good way to learn without being so far from the ground.

Reflection in puddle Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaI figured with the recent rain Barker Dam would be full of water enticing some wildlife into the area.  There were a a few puddles along the trail.

Barker Dam Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaYet there was very little water behind the dam which looked more like a mud puddle.  Notice the water lines on the surrounding rocks that tell a different story of water levels.

Barker Dam Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaAccording to the interpretive signs, what started as a natural catch basin for rainfall and runoff was blocked by the Barker Dam, originally built by the Barker & Shay Cattle Company in 1902 when an average of 10 inches (.25 m) of annual rain fell here compared to the 2-5 inches (.05-.12 m) now.  Grasses were lush for grazing.

Barker Dam Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThen between 1940-50, rancher Bill Keys and family added the upper concrete layer on top of the lower stone wall.  I really wanted to take the Ranger-guided Keys Ranch tour to see and learn more about this hardy family that survived 60 years in this desert.  Unfortunately, the first available reservations were for two weeks away.

Graffitii on Barker Dam Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaOver the years of low water many have left their mark on the accessible dam wall.  What is wrong with people who feel the need to mar our park’s natural or cultural history?  Does it become part of the story?

Water trough Barker Dam Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaAt its maximum the water encompasses about 20 acres (8 ha) with a pipeline carrying water to the cattle trough in the wash behind the dam.  Non-native plants like willows were planted to provide shade for the cattle and in wet years cattails can be seen.  Whatever little moisture is here attracts many animals and birds.  Coots and grebes are known to nest here and migrating herons stop by.

Lizard Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaUnfortunately my mid-day walk meant most smart desert dwellers were hiding in the shade.

Boulders Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park California

Gaelyn's shadow Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park California

Sun behind boulders Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaI continued walking the loop, up, over and around the boulders, occasionally seeking a shady rest.  I certainly wasn’t tired, yet I wanted to be in touch with the rock, to listen to their stories.

Cholla Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaI don’t touch the cholla

 Joshua Tree Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaOr hug the Joshua Tree

Gray Fox Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaGray fox slips through the brush

Then I moved on, like the miners, ranchers and visitors before me while the true Mojave desert survivors remain, adjusting to diminishing water.  Times will change again for us humans and we would be wise to learn from other life how to adapt.

Rock art Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park California

Rock art Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaPeople before us, bands of the Chemehuevi, Serrano, and Cahuilla Indians, laid out their trails between water holes, gathered plants for food and textiles, and left their marks behind.

Rock art Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaSadly the rock art has been defaced.  Rumor has it that decades ago a film company painted these so they could be seen more clearly.  Presumably we didn’t know any better then.  Ahem.

Barker Dam trail Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThis easy 1.3 mile (2 km) loop past Barker Dam with a few short rock scrambles took me a couple of lollygag hours as I paused to look at the way life survives in this arid environment even with the occasional help of water.  And speaking of water, I carried two liters finishing both even on a cool spring afternoon.  Think about the dry excessive heat of a summer walk and be prepared.

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17 March 2015

You can see far from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park

Maybe I should rephrase that to you can sometimes see far from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park.  Usually depends on the air quality—how much pollution is blowing in from Los Angeles—the season, and the time of day.  Morning or late afternoon being best during the winter.

Keys View parking loop Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThe first time I visited Joshua Tree during spring many years ago, the wind blew so strong I could barely open my truck door and walk less than 1000 feet (304 m) to the overlook.  Once there I got a gritty, hazy, barely any view at all.  It may be a short walk but is steep, paved and not accessible, for the later parking is just before the end of the viewpoint road.

Coachella Valley & mountains from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaBeing Keys View is at 5185 feet (1581 m) in elevation, the highest point in the park reached by paved road, and perched on the crest of the little San Bernardino Mountains I expected to see forever, or almost anyway.  I read that on a really clear day you might be able to see Signal Mountain in Mexico near the border 95 miles (153 km) away.  More often you can barely make out the tip of 10,831 foot (3302m) Mount San Jacinto about 50 miles (80 km) away.

Salton Sea, Indio & Santa Rosa Mountains from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaFortunately after a leisurely drive with stops along the way my 11am Keys View is clear, just not to Mexico.  To the left/southwest, just a portion of the Salton Sea glimmers at 230 feet (70 m) below sea level, where I camped and watched birds only a week before.

Coachella Valley & San Jacinto Mountains from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaThe Coachella Valley stretches 50 miles (80 km) encompassing agricultural lands, small cities like Indio and Palm Springs, and to the base of the San Bernardino Range with 11485 foot (3500 m) snow tipped Mount San Gorgonio to the the right.  “Coachella” comes from a Native American name for the conch shells discovered in this ancient seabed.

San Gorgonio Wind Farm from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaLooking closely into the valley I see miles of white sticks and even from this distance they look out of place.  On even closer inspection, which means camera zoom, the San Gorgonio Pass Wind Farm comes into view.  It’s the oldest wind farm in the US being in operation since 1982.  Currently 2700 turbines produce enough wind energy to power about 300,000 homes.  This is considered the windiest place in southern California when cool air blowing in from the Pacific Ocean, 90 miles (144 km) west, is forced between the mountains then meets the rising heat from the desert floor.  Wind speeds in the pass have reached 80 mph (128 kph) which is slightly faster than a Category 1 hurricane.  Guess that explains all the wind.

Interpretive sign, Coachella Valley, Santa Rosa & San Jacinto Mountains from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaAcross Coachella Valley lies the Santa Rosa Mountains seen from the opposite side during my visit to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.  Plus the San Jacinto Mountains and with its snowy Peak.

San Gorgonio from Keys View Joshua Tree National Park CaliforniaNo matter the view, I’d rather be in the park enjoying nature than down in that congested valley with the San Andreas Fault running through it.  So I continue to explore on this fourth day of visiting Joshua Tree and head to the Barker Dam trail next.

 

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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