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Category: Death Valley National Park

23 November 2009

Scotty’s Castle Death Valley National Park

Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaScotty’s Castle
After two days exploring the stark beauty of Death Valley National Park I was totally unprepared for the opulence of Scotty’s Castle built in the desert. It really is an amazing place with many innovative ideas and magnificent handcrafts. Yet the best part is the story, and Ranger Scott, dressed as a professor visiting during 1939, spun a good tale.
Gate into Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaWrought iron and wood gate with J&S
First there’s Scotty himself, called a scoundrel by some and a friend by others, who did not own the “Castle.” Born Walter Scott and known as Death Valley Scotty, he was undoubtedly the most famous prospector in the region yet unlikely ever struck a vein of gold.
Courtyard Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaRanger Scot in the courtyard
Scotty grew up in Kentucky around horses and traveled west at a young age where he became a cowhand with his brothers not far from Death Valley. In 1890 he was recruited into Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show and spent the next 11 years traveling in the US and Europe.
Scotty and Johnson's cars Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaScotty and Johnson’s cars
In 1904, an in debt Scotty met Albert Johnson, a multimillionaire insurance executive from Chicago. They were opposites in almost every way yet were partners and friends for over 40 years. Scotty was gregarious and loud with loose morals that often caused him trouble with the law. Johnson was shy, deeply religious and a respected citizen.
Clock tower Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaEquipment and mechanical building with 56-chime clock in tower
Johnson may have been living out his own fantasies or just entertained by Scotty when they traveled into Death Valley a portion of each winter. The condition to get his wife Bessie to accompany him was to build a proper home.
Main salon Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaConstruction began on the Moorish-style house in 1922 and because of the location caused quite a stir amongst the press. The flamboyant Scotty was there and called it “my castle” and it seems Johnson was glad to stay in the background. A custom cooling system was built using waterfalls like the one seen in the far right above along with water soaked burlap placed behind a wall vent and ducted with air flow from the basement.
Sitting room Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaSitting room showing light patterns from wooden window covers
Money was no object. The interior was adorned with imported and hand-carved furniture.
Dinning room Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaDining room
Custom made Italian dishware were used to serve guests who afterward moved to the main salon where Scotty would entertain for the evening telling stories of his Wild West days while the Johnsons sat quietly by.
Kitchen Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaKitchen
A diesel generator provided electricity for modern conveniences and water was solar heated.
Music room Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaMusic room
There is a custom-made organ in the music room along with an electric player piano.
Scotty's bedroom Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaScotty’s bedroom with his signature hats and red ties
Scotty didn’t actually live in the castle instead he had a ranch located several miles away. He would bid guests goodnight and leave the salon through an adjacent door into his bedroom where another door led outside.
Shooting hole in Scotty's bedroom Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaShoot hole
At Scotty’s request a hole was built next to the door leading out of his “bedroom” so he could shoot any scoundrels that came around. Yet knowing the bad guys usually traveled in pairs, the outside of the “shooting hole” directed the bullet one way towards the door and the other way towards a window. It was never tested.
Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaFront of house with pool
Work stopped in 1931 and the Depression was rough on Johnson. Ultimately the house comprised of 31,000 sq. ft. of floor space, plus stables and guesthouses. The large pool was never completed or filled. When Johnson died in 1948 he left the castle and ranch not to Scotty but to the Gospel Foundation of California which he had established and allowed Scotty to stay and entertain guests until his own death six years later. During the late 1960s the National Park Service acquired all the properties.
Scotty's Castle Death Valley National Park CaliforniaCastle in a desert oasis
After this grand tour we continued our explorations of Death Valley from opulence to a big hole in the ground.

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California, Death Valley National Park, National Parks and Monuments National Park, Scotty's Castle, travel 29 Comments
20 November 2009

Death Valley National Park Artists Drive

 

Artists Point Death Valley National Park CaliforniaGaelyn and Jeremy at Artists Point, sorry for the poor stitch job
We left Badwater Basin to return to camp after a very full day of sightseeing: Salt Creek trail, the Harmony Borax Works, Furnace Creek and the hike to Natural Bridge. Yet wait, there’s a scenic 9-mile (14.48 km) one-way loop road that winds through colorful mud hills. The day’s not quite over at Death Valley National Park Artists Drive.
Artists Drive Death Valley National Park CaliforniaArtists Drive
Because of the lack of vegetation here, Death Valley easily displays the magical yellows, oranges, and browns of the earth presented in brilliant contrast to the startling blue skies.
Mud hills along Artists Drive Death Valley National Park CaliforniaMud hills along Artists Drive
These multi-colored hills, representing 5000-foot (1524-meter) thick deposits of cemented gravels, ancient lake sediments, and volcanic debris form the foot of the Black Mountains.
Mud hills along Artists Drive Death Valley National Park CaliforniaIron oxides show as reds, yellows, browns and blacks. Purple hues are produced by magnesium. Copper, or possibly the breakdown of mica, is responsible for the green color.
Mud hills along Artists Drive Death Valley National Park CaliforniaSome of these rocks reveal fossil diatoms, a phytoplankton that lived in water, and microscopic plants that indicate an environment which existed about 10-30 million years ago.
Last light Death Valley National Park CaliforniaLast light
I was in awe as we drove out of Artists Drive back into the valley and headed back to camp.
Moon over the Black Mountains Death Valley National Park CaliforniaMoon over the Black Mountains
Yet I knew we had another day for more explorations at Death Valley, like a castle built in this “hell-hole turned tourist-trap”.

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California, Death Valley National Park, National Parks and Monuments Artists Drive, National Park 20 Comments
18 November 2009

Death Valley National Park Badwater Basin

“It was so hot that swallows in full flight fell to the earth dead and when I went out to read the thermometer with a wet Turkish towel on my head, it was dry before I returned.” –Oscar Denton, caretaker of the original Furnace Creek Ranch on the record hot day of 134F (56C) in July 1913.
Sea level sign on cliffs Badwater Basin Death Valley National Park CaliforniaSea Level sign, note red line
Death Valley National Park Badwater Basin is the lowest elevation point in the Western Hemisphere at -282 feet (-85.5 meters), only in Africa is it lower. A small spring-fed pool is the only remnant of ancient Lake Manly that once stretched across the valley floor 100 miles (160.9 km) in length and 6-11 miles (9.65 – 17.7 km) in width with an estimated depth of nearly 600 feet (182.88 meters).  This was our next stop after Natural Bridge Canyon.
Sea level sign on cliffs Badwater Basin Death Valley National Park CaliforniaSea level sign
Snow melt from mountains in central Nevada flow into underground aquifers gathering minerals along the way and emerges here along the fault line at the base of the Amargosa Range.
Badwater Basin Death Valley National Park CaliforniaView west over Badwater Basin
Here, at the lowest elevation, the water comes to rest forming temporary lakes then the water evaporates and only the minerals remain.
Pool on saltflats Badwater Basin Death Valley National Park CaliforniaPool on salt flats
Sodium chloride, or table salt, makes up the majority of minerals however calcite, gypsum, and of course borax are also found.
Badwater Basin Death Valley National Park CaliforniaView north over Badwater Basin
Water is rare and precious in Death Valley. Imagine the disappointment when a surveyor couldn’t get his mule to drink. He wrote on his map “bad water” and the name stuck. But it’s not bad, just salty.
Saltflats Badwater Basin Death Valley NP CASalt Flats
Salt crystals expand, pushing the crust of salt into rough, chaotic forms constantly changing as newly formed crystals ooze between the mud cracks.
On the road to Artists Drive Death Valley National Park CaliforniaOn the road to Artists Drive
From Badwater we began driving back to camp, but there was another interesting side trip to be taken on the way.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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